Ruslan

Check with the agents, but out of stock it seems. they said that it'll gonna take at least 1 month to get down the parts. anyway I'm gonna check outside sources as well. price is around 1000/- for both parts.

mike99, dhinukshaatgmaildotcom that's my e-mail address. if you replacing IAC gasket then your gonna need to remove Throttle Body as well. so you need to replace throttle body gasket too (you might be able to re-use this Gasket with Gasket sealant if it's not damaged during removal). Agents might have these. or else try to source somewhere else (Panchikawatte, MM Organization) here's the part numbers for the Gaskets. (Courtesy toyodiy.com) Gasket, Throttle Body: 22271-22040 Gasket, Throttle Body (IAC Gasket) Cover: 22215-7A680 Note: IAC Gasket (22215-7A680) is common with any corolla(121) manufactured after year 2001 so it should be available without a problem.

hey mike99, did you find a solution for your TB problem? i ran into the same prob with my car (Which is the same model) as well. but figure out that it isn't the Throttle body but the IAC (Idle Air controller) gasket. for the moment simple bypass would do (Since the throttle body doesn't get Iced up in SL like maithri said). but I'm gonna soon replace the gasket. don't buy they're claim saying throttle body could get corroded, cos most of these parts are Alloys. they simply trying to make a buck out of you for sure. IAC location (bottom part of the throttle body) IAC Removed IAC top side with the Gasket (Throttle body side)

You gonna need to replace, Headlamps (Including HID Kit - With controller in the Dash panel - Beam Leveler) Tail Lights Front Grill Front and rear bumper is slightly different in the face lifted model. G-Limited equipped with Navigation and Rear Backup Cameras.

There's a place (Specialized for Canopys) at Borella Next to Siedles when you going towards Town hall. couldn't remember the name though.

That's the same i herd. it's better to remove the pan and refill oil after cleaning the filter.

got it down from Australia through a friend of mine. sorry it should be Osram "Silverstars". i think D*MO might have them. since they are the dealers for Osram.

Most of these corner shop spare part joints sells blue coated cheap bulbs as Xenons. these are no better than original halogens (Genuine Osrams, Philips, Koito stuff). installed Osram sylvanias and so far it's better upgrade than standard bulbs.

One of my friends got a CE110 Manufactured in 1997. the engine require a complete overhaul, but he went for a Engine Swap than Overhaul. got good engine from Kurunegala. instead of 2C engine he fixed 3C-E EFI diesel engine. it's seems economical than 2C. some of the Late Corollas (Year 1999-1998) cars came with 3C-E engine. Model code for those i think CE113. have seen so many 4WD (CE114) models but it's good to stay away from them because of lack of spares for suspension, Clutch and low in fuel figures too. (CE114 is a full time 4WD)

Used FB NS80 battery (Original Japanese) for 5 years. this is for a Van. couldn't found the same battery on the local market but settled for EXIDE NS80 lasted more than 3 years without a problem. now using GS NS40 for the car so far no problem (It has been 2 years now). got it for 5000/- + 1 Year warranty.

Nice looking Shopping Cart LMAO..

Did you replace the Evaporator in your car? guess it's bit tedious since it located in the middle of the dashboard unlike earlier models. do you have to dis-assemble the entire dashboard for that? and is it necessary to service the Evaporator as well when you servicing the A/C? what's the normal procedure machan?

Isn't it the same compressor machan? i guess only the mounts are different. so i think it's better to use the original. Toyota Vitz Toyota Starlet 4E-FE

can you reveal the "joints" name?. so everybody will be aware of these "professionals". Mods will be ok with this i guess

mine's around 121000Kms on clock, guess it's bit risky running fuel cleaner that often am i right? agree with Ripper. used soltron for a while, but i couldn't find any differences. it's the same with those nano fuel savers me thinks..

It's not that simple when it comes to deal with RMV.. u know what i mean you need to weigh the Car after the Engine Swap (At Werahara).. and then you need to show them the Receipts (Receipt of the Engine which you purchased) and vehicle to the examiners at RMV (werahara). they will check the vehicle, Engine number etc. after you handover the documents and payments to RMV. you will receive the Altered registration "Book" (with new Engine number) by registered mail.

I think it's around 3500/- or something cant remember the exact amount.. didn't got a new number.. it's just re-registering the new Engine number to the Registration document that's all.

1) I don't believe in the cost factor, last time we did a swap for our Van (CR 27 with 2C engine) it costs less than Overhaul. and mind you that with the new (Used) engine you get new power steering pump, A/C compressor, Alternator, fuel pump, Transmission (if it included in the deal) etc.. even with the overhaul you never know what kind of parts were used to overhaul (Bearings etc..) and you cant still get the original specs even after a overhaul. 2) You can re-register the new engine number at RMV.. we did that with our Van.. (It's not illegal after that) 3) That depends on the place where you get the Engine.

Why you wanna Overhaul? if i were you, might swap the engine for a Slightly used 7A-FE (1800CC) with transmission and use it for sometime. (well that's just me.. ) anybody got any idea about prices of Engines these days?

This was discussed earlier as well.. http://forum.autolanka.com/index.php?s...4968&hl=LED Here's the Info Again.. http://www.autoled.info/

Send You a PM..

Well GuruG, That's a great eye opener for all who looking to buy a Brand new + economical but unsafe crap vehicle like that. 13 Sri Lancer would do way better than that i guess. sorry to hear about your friend, that's tragic.

Seriously Mate, what's wrong with Jap Recon Cars? give us a reason..?

So All the "down to earth persons" are driving Marutis?? seriously Dude, what are you smoking??

Abt resetting ECU.. just pull out the E.F.I fuse inside the engine compartment or unplugged battery terminals for some period. once you plugged them back and take a test drive, first couple of Kms would feel bit awkward (Engine might act weird).. cos the ECU itself learning the driving patterns start from scratch.