tiv

Been using the Night Breaker lineage for almost 5 years now, with the latest 'unlimited' upgrade, does wonders on the stock housings! Which variant is this? Plus or Unlimited? And may I ask what is the Temperature on the HIDs? as the color is almost the same as the osrams However reviews claim they have a lower lifespan, they haven't failed on anyone I know. Excellent purchase!

First of all, this could be a glitch in the small display that is there, which may need replacement, Anyways if you are sure if it is carbon or soot, This looks like a Japanese vehicle, it would have helped if you were specific, as your question is vague, this answer will be too. Usually these gauge clusters are covered by a piece of trim, black, grey, walnut etc, usually with or without screws, If there are no visible screws, you might be able to pull it out, however be very careful as you might end up ripping it apart, better if you can find out this step through a service manual etc If there are switches attached to this trim, you may remove the clips and disconnect the switches. Once the trim is out of the way, the gauge cluster is very likely to be mounted to the firewall using brackets, the gauge cluster is attached to these brackets with screws usually 2-4, A long magnetic Philips (+) screw driver will be useful as if you drop any screw behind the dash board, you might end up with a life long rattle. Once these screws are off, its a matter of lifting off the gauge cluster, but do not yank it out, make note to slowly remove the 2-3 wire harness plugs attached to the board, if it has a mechanical cable for speedo ( NAME MAKE YOM would have helped!) Disengage it carefully. Once the entire gauge cluster is free, remove it and place it on a clean table, Usually the Transparent cover is held by clamps, 3-4 around the gauge cluster, Simply unclamp using a soft tool. If the transparent cover is hazed, I'd recommend a little bit of rubbing compound (3M / V cut / etc) a very mild wipe can do wonders. Matter of wiping the display with a lint free cloth and everything else. I do not recommend touching or removing the needles as it can mess up the calibration. While you are at it I'd recommend changing the bulbs to LEDs. And masking possible holes where dirt can get in. Reassemble in the same order. All the best

There is a place, Prices range from Rs 2000- 4500, i'd recommend them, you can find their page on fb, I think it is against rules to mention a name here

At 22,000km injector cleaning is unnecessary unless u landed a poor batch of fuel or you've been using via cans etc to refill (common in the estate sector) Also misuse of these injector cleaners can end up ruining them, leading to a bigger expense trying to gain an economy that was never there. You are better off spending this money and time on routine maintenance ( Service ) with all genuine gear.

Well, mods on this judging by the looks Bumper delete and shaved mounts, Slightly embossed wheel arches, maybe almost OEM and Some hard to see mirrors Mostly tinker work BBS style rims, with a low profile tyre, may / may-not be spaced based on the wheel width. Car looks lowered, maybe with a wee-bit of negative camber Requires parts and a good mechanic, depends on how far you want to spend ie; camber kits and coilovers or make-do with existing parts with guided fabrication. I recall an AL member having a similar car, in white, search a bit. This picture looks like a poor example of a GSR, I'd suggest a more OEM look/ spec car, with subtle mods, and upgrades rather. All the best!

Looking good guys!, all the best

A late addition http://www.cosl.lk/pdf/Vision_standards_Driving_license_Sri_Lanka.pdf

Just asking mate, based on your account name, did u own one of those Supras back in the day? or the NA one?

This can be bought off eBay for $20-40, and the adapter device for it for another $40. Connects to a special data port behind the oem device, (may vary based on the device) As for the aux in, if there is no port behind the unit, a good electrician can solder one in. You can then buy a similar combo port with USB and 3.mm aux in and solder it together. Many online DIYS for this But I'd advice you to invest on a premium media device, as the OEM device displays in Japanese and you are pretty much missing its functions, as far as I know the language cannot be changed. An aftermarket proper branded device has all these features built it and will integrate the steering controls as well. Don't fall for the Rs. 20,000-30,000 range faux products carrying a brand name. A genuine unit spans above Rs 50,000

1. Yes, they can be purchased separately and installed into the existing lights, It would be unwise to try to hack in a set of lights from a another make/ model 2. Try to keep modifications to a minimal, or preserve the original and use another bumper to 'decorate' 3. With fibreglass and good tinker, any front end job is possible, however I'd advice u again to keep things minimal, and in a way you can restore it back to OEM once you pass this phase 4. Drawbacks - These angel eye lights are not as good as OEM lights, Aftermarket HIDs are messy and problematic at times, To use HIDs a projector lens is a must, Installing angel eyes into existing lights may later cause leaks, cracks etc in the original lights, You will be called a Vesak thorana, It will have a bad outcome one your resale value, value will be inversely proportional to the hacking you have done to the front end of the car. These mods may render offensive light outputs and disturb oncoming traffic harming you and others, you may get copped for light mods above 8000K (cop dependent). Excessive mods to the front bumper may hamper radiator / aircon functions, over expose the radiator to the elements and debris shortening its lifespan, affect aerodynamics, overall safety of the car, and ground clearance, and a negligible difference to fuel economy. 5. As far as I can see, the car in the picture has OEM lights, maybe allotted to some country spec, with a subtle mod known as Eyelids Hope this may steer you the right way. cheers

Congrats! Good Choice on the colour

I'm sure no one wants to rivet these badges by choice, but by sheer need to 'save' the badges, however there are a few lunatics I've seen going overboard with the rivet thingy thereby every piece of garnish/ trim and what-not in the car meets a rivet. A relative of mine acquired a X-trail recently and the thing had 37 rivets in total, all ending in the body or some metal panel.

I too am a big fan of these Dome Leds, I have seen warm white for household applications, but simply skipped the fact they can be used in the cabin. Great find! Useful for classic vehicles as well, to maintain the period look. safer on all switches, these can be left on overnight and still have a usable battery by morning!

I had it shipped from Australia and US, no issues / custom cases You can't actually touch up normal paint with Dip, rather u need to mask/ coat the entire panel or bit. However you can touch up over existing Dip, Might be cheaper to do a touchup by conventional methods coz I had to shell out approx $250 for 5 cans back then.

As far as I know there is no proper retail yet, but I've seen some chaps selling an Asian alternative, To mention plastidip is quite good in terms of durability, as I ve had a coated bit for over 3years now exposed to the elements, still 99% intact. It is a bit fragile until it sets ie; more or less a few days,

I too purchased this, pending arrival. How is the quality?

The shielding / Casing bit must have fallen off or tampered with along the way. Also due to the division and grommet, it may have been only covered with tape which fell off probably. You better buy a piece (available in-various gauges and sizes in Auto electrical shops). Usual manufacturer wiring loom method is : Wire-> Complete electrical tape masking -> casing -> tape masking over casing. Pay bit of attention to the Division in the loom going into the grommet, and cover it all up just to be safe, 5min DIY

Hi guys, Any good / commendable place in Kandy for touch-up jobs and tinkering?

Admins, can't we have a poll on this? based on various horn habits, may help us soften the ol' road rage when the hillbilly behind stands on his horn trigger

Not to argue, I driven over 1000km in several countries including India, Sadly using a horn frequently is pretty much a must in our country, People tend to be burdened and distracted with current times and fail to keep attention to the road, plus how do we know what mentality the other fellow driver is in let it be car bus bike whatever? Once I lost a reasonably expensive OEM snorkel, to a 3 wheel, his fault, driving all over the road, my fault? not sounding the horn loud enough. I got 15000 off my lousy insurance, which I replaced soon after, anyway a simple tap on the horn could have avoided this So in countries like ours, I prefer to have a decent horn, not annoyingly loud, but enough to keep others aware, for safety of both parties.

I recently upgraded mine to a Hella setup, 118 Decibels, Or else you can go with the Hella Supertones, bit rash for me A notch higher and you can go with an air horn setup, vacuum operated rather complicated, http://www.hella.com/hella-sg/assets/media/Hella_Horns_Brochure_LoRes.pdf check the link, most of these horns are locally available, tad bit costly There is a DIY thread by Schiffer, check that out too There is a OEM Denso horn pair stock in certain trim Full Size SUVs (Nissan Patrol, Land Cruiser 200) Extremely loud if u can source one, prone to annoy others though. In reality a secondary horn is hard to use, as the switch will be located in the dash probably, in emergencies you'll pretty much end up jumping on the wheel button, a better choice would be to use a two-way switch, to select which horn is powered by the steering wheel switch. Was stock in some merc and euros. All the best!

Damn that does look mint, I'd recommend a set of period matching alloys when feasible, Thumbs up for a good job machan, looking forward to see more

Would love to see some pics of your restore

Good Job machan, this little things improve emissions, fuel consumption and the lifespan of these engines, people tend to forget all these and run for hybrids As for the OBD stuff, I first used a $10 ODB Bluetooth adapter and ran the "Torque" app, however this adapter works but was not that stable and had compatibility issues with sensors, there for I upgraded to the PLX Kiwi Obd Wifi Device (https://plxdevices.com/product_info.php?id=GSST2WIFI) cost about $100 then and had it imported It is much faster and troublefree connectivity, used since 2011, and works with Apple devices and PC as well, this adapter allowed me to read all sensors real-time in that speed I've used Dashcommand ($40 then) mostly and previously various freeware, This setup has never failed me and I've sorted out OBD issues in various vehicles on the go even after a mud bath in Yala.