Davy

My opinion is that a properly serviced and repaired alternator is better than a used one. I'm a bit surprised that the genuine rectifier costs that much though. Did you personally check with the agents? Also, I don't see how the alternator itself can go bad due to a faulty rectifier. If the winding is intact, then the chances are that it will continue to work fine after a new rectifier is installed.

Can't believe we are going into this level... Just use some 3M rubbing compound or a similar polish. Much more effective than toothpaste.

My first guess is that your clutch slave cylinder (also called the clutch fork) is faulty. This is located in the gearbox and is coupled with the release bearing. It could also be the master cylinder, but the CS is known for slave cylinders giving trouble (as per UniMo) after about 60,000km of running. Try this: - Put the car into neutral and start the engine - Press and release the clutch about 5 - 6 times in a pumping action (fully press and release) - Press and hold the clutch - Try shifting into first gear if it shifts normally, then there is definitely a master/slave cylinder problem. Again, I'm guessing it's the latter. The thing about failing slave cylinders is that the clutch starts to feel a bit too soft. I'm not quite sure why yours is normal. Did you do a brake repair recently? How's the condition and level of your brake fluid?

Hooray! I remember this conversation from the beginning of the project. Good move.

Come on dude, at least give a detailed answer without copy pasting my own question to you... If you need people to help you, help people by explaining your situation.

What do you mean exactly by "can't change the gear"? Is the lever stuck? Does the clutch feel normal?

Love the Duck Tail spoiler! The front looks badass already!

Please stop opening multiple threads on the same topic.

Rectifiers are specific to the model of the alternator and therefore the vehicle. So electricians may not stock every model with them and you might have to buy them separately. The alternator in your Presea is probably shared across many other Nissans, so the rectifier should be easy to find.It takes time to remove the alternator, service it and put everything back together. 2.5 hours seems just about right.

It's actually called the "rectifier". Because that's the circuit that converts the alternating current (AC) generated by the alternator to direct current (DC). Older cars came with 4 separate diodes which could be replaced individually, but most cars after the 80s or so came with a integrated rectifier which has to be replaced as a whole unit. Simple job as stated above by Crosswind.

Asnu does have all equipment that tests all aspects of injector function. I haven't been there personally, but I know that they have got their equipment. They actually have the ASNU ultrasonic injector cleaning equipment and the injector testing machine (this one) which tests if all injectors deliver the correct amount of fuel etc. I knew that the owner of Asnu had an arrangement with another garage to get things done, but all this time I thought that it was the garage situated right behind the Asnu place. Another place that did this is Nalaka Wheel Alignment Centre in Hyde Park Corner. I have been there once and they did a superb job (there was only one mech doing this job and he was a former A*W guy - knew his stuff and was very good. I don't recall his name now). Cleaned the injectors with ultrasonic, tested them, cleaned the throttle body, replaced plugs and ran a full diagnostic scan and did a trial run. Not sure if they still offer the service.

I'm guessing this is a facelift. The price is okay. The interior rexin cracking up on the doors is a common, if the car is left in the hot sun regularly and mostly for the dashboard polish our service stations use. I have had to re-upholster them. See the thread below: http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/15984-reupholstering-interior-panels/

Wait.. Nalaka has been closed down?

Old thread, but since this is still a valid question, the simple answer is "no". I wouldn't call tappet adjustments to be part of a regular tune-up. What is usually done is: - Injector clean up/testing (some use the 3M or Wurth fuel system cleaner and run the car until the can is empty, but I personally like to get the injectors cleaned using ultrasonic and then tested) - Throttle body clean up (includes cleaning the throttle body, Idle Air Control valve and related components) - Spark plug clean up/adjustment/replacement - Diagnostic scan if applicable (Optionally attend to issues revealed by the scan) The interval to adjust tappet clearances is usually specified by the manufacturer. For a brand new car, the first adjustment may need to be done after a few thousand Kms (usually at the first service), but does not need to be done at every tune up unless obvious tappet noise is heard.

Tried searching the forum before opening the topic? http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/16129-fit-gp5-or-aqua-g/ http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/16016-honda-fit-hybrid-gp5-vs-toyota-axio-hybrid-2014/ http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/16417-honda-gp5/ http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/16485-honda-fit-gp5-inquiry/ http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/16599-toyota-aqua-gs-or-honda-fit-rs-gp4/ http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/15181-toyota-aqua-vs-honda-fit-hybrid/ http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/15480-honda-fit-hybrid-maintenance/ http://forum.autolanka.com/tags/forums/Aqua/ http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/16119-prius-c-vs-aqua/ http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/15962-breakdowns-on-toyota-aqua/ http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/13161-toyota-aqua-2012/ http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/16327-toyota-aqua-s-grade/ . . . and I'm too tired of copy pasting...

How are you certain that it's the rear brakes that are failing?

Brand: Dunlop Model: SPTRGT1 TL Size: 185/55 R 15 Country of origin: Indonesia Price: 13,050/= (valid for 30 days) From: S. K. Munasinghe (Dunlop agents) EDIT: The final price ended up being 12,900 per tyre because all four tyres were purchased at once.

My gosh I can't believe this is on CNET! http://www.cnet.com/news/the-latest-joy-selfies-with-police-officers-giving-you-a-ticket/ EDIT: Apparently it's called a "polfie" (police + selfie).

Know you're new to the forum, but can you please stop opening multiple topics about the same thing? Can't help but notice that there are three other topics opened by you about the same subject within the past day or so. There are loads of information on the forum about both the BJ3P and BJ5P. Follow the instructions here and search the forum first. Do your homework and then ask what you need to know. EDIT: A glimpse of the amount of information on the forum about the car you're after (car buying information, comparisons, issues, fuel consumption, reputed garages for repairing etc.): Search Results for "BJ5P" Search Results for "BJ3P" Search Results for "Mazda Familia" Search Results for "Mazda 323" Search Results for "Mazda BJ" Now please, read and use one thread to ask your questions. Thank you.

Agree with The Don. First try adjusting the rubber door stoppers (they are usually adjustable) on either side of the tailgate. If that doesn't solve the issue, then the lock needs adjustment or a repair.

Surgical spirit should do it. Soak a clean cotton rag (or microfiber towel) with a bit of surgical spirit and gently wipe it off. Repeat with a clean section of the cloth to avoid smudging the stain all over.

Since its manufactured in 2003, most probably it should be a face lift CS1 with EFI. If that is the case that price is ok IMHO. Yes, agreed. As for the question about fuel consumption, it has been discussed to death, but you're looking at about 10kmpl in the city.

I had a 2001 CS3. Bought in 2008 and sold in 2015 April for 1.7M. Not really sure about the market situation now, but if you're talking about a pre facelift CS1 with a carburetor engine, then the price is a bit too high IMO.

Are you kidding me? Changing a flat tyre on the overtaking lane?? Must have had a death wish or something.

The only connection I see between the booster and petrol smell is that the booster is connected to the intake manifold through a vacuum line. Even if the booster is leaking, I don't see how petrol smell can come into the car, because the air flow is from the booster towards the intake manifold. Plus, most vehicles have a non return valve either in the booster or on the vacuum line to prevent the booster from losing vacuum. So it's unlikely that the vapour from the intake manifold reach the booster. Also,this is an EFI engine, so the intake manifold will not contain a fuel rich air mixture, although it may have enough to give out a petrol smell. Like I said before, check if vacuum lines are OK (including the booster vacuum line).