Davy

Thanks machan! Wheels are a long shot right now with all other engagements I'm having, but it's something that I have in mind. The GLX badge is intact, I guess it's the angle from which the photo was taken.

Sorry for the late reply. The OZ Rally version of the Lancer CS came with OZ Racing wheels which look like this: While this is original, I think it's too subtle and was thinking of something like 16 inch OZ Racing F1 rims (gunmetal gray). This is a longshot but it's what I have in mind.

Do you know what kind of stain it is? According to my knowledge there is no harm in steam cleaning seats but you might want to be a bit careful when cleaning vinyl parts on door panels and such because they may tend to wrinkle and lose the original look. Again, this is mainly if the vinyl is stretched and attached to a surface.

If you really want to know more, try this: http://www.goo-net-exchange.com/catalog/TOYOTA__COROLLA_TOURING_WAGON/ Like iRage has mentioned, there were many packages offered with the various touring models so there is no black an white answer as to "what differs between these two models?"

Thanks guys! Appreciate it.

The difference between L and G touring has not changed since you yourself opened up a thread last time for the same thing. http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/15112-toyota-corolla-g-touring-market-price/ You have been given the answer for the exact question you've posted here.

WoW! Great choice of engine there. Glad she's a Capri under the hood as well! If you're gonna transplant the engine before the bodywork is complete, I can suggest that you get the engine bay painted (and any tinkering attended to) so that you don't have to worry about them later.

Before you do any work on the board, I suggest you check if the trace is really damaged. By the looks of it, I think it's just the white protective paint coming off. If the circuit is damaged, I'd prefer soldering the lines again. You can sand down the white paint using a fine grit sandpaper and then try etching the trace using Lead. This way you can re-paint the surface (in white, as it is now) so that it doesn't look like someone has messed with the board. You may also want to do a bit of searching on eBay for "Conductive Pens" which are specifically available for PCB trace repair. This is much less difficult than trying to etch the trace using a soldering iron and Lead. Hope this helps.

Thank you! Yes Jaliya, the rims are the ones that were on the car when I bought it, and they've got to be my least favourite thing about the car. As for the colour, I was thinking more like gunmetal gray. Say something like what trinity has shared in the pic in this post?

185 65R 14 (which is one of the manufacturer specified sizes).

Thanks for the comments guys. It still makes my heart leap after seeing the before and after photos of your car with the OEM bodykit. All that's missing now is to get the spoiler and I hope you get it within the next month or so. Forgot that you colour key'd the door handles and side mirrors. Certainly looks sharp!

Woah, nice E30. Congrats and all the best with the restoration!

Oh the temptation! I've been looking at vortex generators on eBay a couple of years back, but I think I should first get rid of the ugly alloys I have and get a set that looks like the one in the pic (16 inch OZ).

What's wrong with the ones you have? I remember that some early CS1s didn't have the insulation, doesn't yours have them too? The agents will get them down for you but at a very high price. Best bet would be to hunt around Delkanda to see if you can find a half cut with the parts still on (There is a white half cut CEDIA in a shop close to Kottawa. Saw another one around but can't remember where). Even if you find one, you'll have to get the seller to agree to give you just the parts you need.

A good polish and we're all done... Overjoyed!!!

After over 2 years of searching for an OEM spoiler for my CS3 (for a sane price) I finally hit the jackpot. First and foremost I must say that I wouldn’t have gone and picked this up if it weren’t for trinity. Tracked it down after seeing an ad on a local website and the price was just below 10,000 (brand new)! I was damn lucky ‘cause I picked up the last one of the batch that they had imported. After having it for over a month in my trunk, I got it painted last week. And as always I wanted the job to be as original as possible, so I tried to get everything done to factory specs. trinity picked up the mounting gaskets for me from UniMo (the last two in stock and both were for the left side). Placed an order for the right side – gonna run on 3M double sided tape on that side until this comes down. I had to take the car to a garage to get the trunk lid drilled because I don’t have one with me. It was pretty easy locating the spots to drill because this was an OEM spoiler and the trunk lid had markings (on the under side) on the spots to be drilled. 4 holes for the mounting bolts and 1 more on the left side for the stop light wire. The trunk lid bumpers (two rubber bushes on either side) had to be removed temporarily to drill the holes and mount the wing. After the holes were drilled, I test fitted the spoiler and began work back at home. I made sure that no metal was exposed around the drilled holes (that would cause the trunk lid to corrode) by applying matching paint. Here's me geared up for the install. Positioned and pasted the gaskets on the spoiler and mounted the spoiler using 4 bolts. Two of the bolts are a bit hard to be fastened if they have a hex head because a socket wrench cannot be manoeuvred inside the space through which it has to be fastened. So I had to use a bolt with a Philips head for those two screws (as instructed by the manufacturer in the workshop manual as well). Bought black flexible PVC wire insulation and made a cut along the wall from one end to the other to make it easy for the wire to be inserted. Covered both ends using black insulation tape. My car already has a third stop light behind the rear windscreen. On CS Lancers that came with the spoiler from the factory, they don’t have this as the spoiler itself has a stop light. So I disconnected the third stop light (by removing the bulb). I didn’t want to cut and chop any wires as well and after looking around a bit, I discovered that the manufacturer has provided a way to tap into the third stop light connector by just plugging two (+ and -) wires to the connector as shown below. The externally plugged in wire can be secured with a piece of plastic that can be snapped into place. That was a huge relief! All done. Continued...

I'm not sure about the Viva Elite but some cars make a ticking sound from the steering column when taking a bend (that requires turning the wheel a couple of full rounds) while the turn signal is on (in the direction of the turn). This is because of the turn signal auto-off mechanism going over the signal lever when the steering wheel turns, which of course is very normal. But if this is a recent development, this might not be the case.

I guess the price is okay for that car since it's a rare speciman and seems to be in pretty goodk condition.

Yes, then this should be a brand new import through UniMo and not a JDM. Looks like they provided the options later because the earlier versions of the CS did not have this. What is the asking price? These go around for 2.4 - 2.7 million I guess.

Still it's much easier to the search string with the "site" filter on the web browser's addressbar rather than going to the AutoLanka homepage and doing a search. 1. The next excuse of members for opening new threads now is "I did a search but I couldn't find information I needed, so I'm opening up a new thread". Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't it better to bump an old thread and continue the discussion (if its the same thing that needs discussing) rather than opening a new thread? 2. And the other problem is opening up threads for each and every issue faced with a car by just one member - for the same car. I think it's wise to open just one thread (as a mod suggested recently which resulted in creating the "Help with my Lancer CS3" thread) over opening one for every small issue. Just go to the forum.autolanka.com home page right now and see the recent topics - see what I mean? Sorry Watchman if this is OT, but maybe one reason for why people can't seem to find the info they're looking for is cause the forum is so cluttered up with repeated threads. Just my 2 cents. Hope this does not offend anyone. Peace.

Woaah... how did I miss this? Stunning for a car of this age.

Which type of dash are you talking about? A: This is a JDM dash (not double din but there is a multi info display between the centre AC vents, and and automatic AC on the mid-centre of the dash): B: Double din dash (Automatic AC located at the mid-lower part of the dash).

Answered on the CS2 thread with the hope of keeping this thread purely for the CS3.

I think I've said this before but the number after the letters "CS" indicates the type of engine on the car. Ranging from the CS1 which has a 1.3L SOHC engine to the CS9 which has a 2.0L DOHC Turbo engine, the rest of the options on the car is solely depends on the trim (GL, GLX etc.) of the car. So you may find a CS2 or CS3 with pretty much the same options with the only difference being the engine. So the car in question is a JDM CS2?

No. As far as I know, no agent sells what is not specifically meant for the country in which they operate. So the JDM/Singapore Lancers you see here are private imports.