Davy
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Everything posted by Davy
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JPS... that's a new one!
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[Removed part of my answer as Rumesh88's reply just popped up and it had pretty much the same thing I wanted to say about it being normal to have a few small (soda bubble sized) air bubbles in the system as soon as the engine is started.] If the line to the fuel pump does not have any bubbles, the only explanation that I can think of is a small leak in the diaphram of the pump which is pulling air through the breather line of the pump. You can check if the breather hose is oily or if fuel is leaking out of the breather line immediately after the engine is stopped. MasterDon is right, mechanical fuel pumps rarely fail and they are much reliable than having a electric pump. The only part which I did not replace on my Lancer A72 after the overhaul was the fuel pump. I bought a replacement but returned it because the original had good pressure although it had been pumping for over 30 years. I too suggest you do the same if yours is faulty. Now that you have clear pipes, you can easily check if there is a problem with the fuel system by taking the car to an incline and checking if everything works as it does on flat ground.
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After 5 years of flawless running, I had forgotten what if feels like when the car suddenly stalls in the middle of the road... Got a good reminder yesterday, and I'll remember this for quite some time.
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Well it's like this... I went to the garage early morning because the car stalled twice the previous day. Kept it slow with AC off and I reached the garage without stalling at all. Did the scan, got the error and I was stupid enough to come back to colombo in the car itself to get the new sensor. Bad decision... Car stalled at several places (for 30 mins sometimes). Managed to reach the garage somehow after a few stalls, but they've closed for the day. 
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similarnames, damn that dash (saw it on the other thred) is just jawdropping already! WoW! Looks like you have a long way to go until it's complete! Best of luck with the project!
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Check with Mahinda. Contact number is already shared in this thread. He has used parts mind you, so don't expect them to be 100% perfect. I'm talking about the headlight in particular. A used headlight will cost you about 18,000 outside. It's over 60,000 at the agent. I remember someone on the forum replacing his CS1 headlight (brand new from Delkanda) for 40,000. Not sure about the bumper and bonnet. Edit: Found the other thread: http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/15449-lancer-cs1-2008-model-head-lamps/
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Cannot repair the pump. I repeat, cannot repair the pump. It has to be replaced as a whole unit as I have mentioned above. Yes, these pumps are available recon or brand new at Panchikawatte. A brand new one cost me about Rs. 3500 back in 2010. About installation: Yes, you can just take out the old pump and fix the new one. Go through pages 44 - 49 of the fuel system workshop manual (Download it from here). Removal and installation steps are clearly illustrated in the manual. It looks like you are certain that the miss is due to a failing fuel pump, did you perform the other, (much simpler) checks before going ahead and opting to replace the fuel pump? If I were you, I'd leave the fuel pump for later and check up on them first. Just my 2 cents.
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The 4G33 engine comes with a sealed mechanical pump and it's located just next to the distributor. The fuel pump has a linkage to the valve body, touching the camshaft and pumps fuel as the camshaft turns. So it cannot be repaired and will have to be replaced as a whole unit if proven to be faulty. The original pump looks like this (appearance could be slightly different): Like I mentioned before, if the miss is sharp (sudden jerk), then it's likely that the fault is with the ignition system, if it's soft (gradual loss of power and then picking back up), then you might be looking at a fuel system fault. Just observe what kind of miss it is and start looking into the respective area.
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I have used IOC and Ceypetco 95 ocatane alternatively and I've not come across a situation where I came to believe that one is better than the other. But I use IOC mostly because the closest fuel station to my residence is IOC operated. I'm not exactly sure why the prices are different, maybe another member can answer that for you.
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Yes, I have been there once (I did my last tuneup there) and I'm happy with it. The guy who worked on my car was a chap named Kapila (I think he's the only guy who does all EFI tuneups there). Competent fellow. Let us know how it goes. Good luck!
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Could be several reasons IMO... If the miss is sharp, it could be due to an ignition fault, Check the following components: - Distributor - check and clean the contact points and rotor, check capacitor - Spark plugs - check if they need to be replaced or clean - High tension leads (plug wires) - Clean wire insulation and check for damage. Run the engine and check if each lead works as it should. If all of the above does not solve the issue, we can move on to the fuel system (check fuel filter and pump).
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Welcome to the forum! 1. I'm not sure about the facelift CS3, but my owner's manual (2001 CS3A with a 4G18) says 91 octane or above, so I pump 95. If your manual says use 95 and if you love your car, just use 95. The few extra bucks you pay now will save you a couple of thousand bucks in the future. 2. If you put your foot down or if you're sitting in traffic for extensive periods of time, then I expect it to go down to a minimum of 10km/l and it's highly unlikely that it goes below that. On average, it should do between 10 and 12 in the city. Mine is generally between 11 and 12 km/l. 3. Looks like your car needs a tune-up urgently. Over 40,000km without a tuneup is a pretty long time. Since this is the first time that you're doing a tune-up on the car, I suggest you replace the air filter, spark plugs and give it a good injector and throttle body cleanup. I personally don't like fuel system cleaners. I'd rather have the injectors taken off and cleaned and I suggest you do the same. There are plenty of places outside where you can get the full tuneup done for under 10,000LKR. Try A$NU at Koswatta or N@l@k@a Wheel Alignment Centre Hyde Park (both places have ultrasonic injector cleaning equipment). Hope this helps.
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This is my favourite out of all I guess. Been collecting the seasons and I'm on Season 04 now. The older episodes are a bit difficult to be found online.
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It's shared already in This Post in the thread named "Lancer Service Manuals Available Here"
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LOL. What a way to start the Christmas morning! Thanks for the laughs everyone. Congratulations to Komi and Rumesh88! Keep up the good work guys!
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Wishing everyone on the forum a very merry Christmas and new year filled with more and more horsepower!
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The hardboard cover is an easy job since you already have the original with you. I doubt you'll be able to find a repalcement so the best bet is to get a new one redone as trinity and Komi have already stated. If you buy the board, you can just place the damaged board over the new board, draw the outline and cut it yourself using a blade. The fine curves can be shaped up by using a file. As for the window molding trim, I checked with UniMo last year because one of mine is also slightly dented and their price was 11,000LKR. Front and rear prices were pretty much the same. What's the exact condition of the trim... is it dented or twisted to an extent where it sticks out of the door (and probably scraping the window)? If it's a small ding, you can get it straightened out because the molding is actually a strip of metal covered with a rubber overlay. If you're worried just because the rubber overlay is discoloured, you can easily use some conditioner and polish to get it to look like new. I checked with Mahinda for the parts and he had a few doors with him with the trim mounted, but was not willing to remove them and give 'em to me separately. Check with Eur0N!pp0n or US C@r P@rts for the antenna. If your car has the type that is mounted close to the driver's side door on the A pillar, then I think I remember trinity saying that guys at Eur0N!pp0n quoted him 3000LKR or so for the antenna. If it's the centre roof mounted type (which was the most common on the facelift), then you might have to do some checking around in the above places.
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Voted
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It's based on the class and weight of the vehicle machan (and any other delay fee + stamp duty applicable). Check out the PDF document below for a detailed breakdown of the Revenue Licence charges (refer page 8 onwards). Download PDF (Applicable to 2013) Link to where I got this from: Here
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Welcome to the forum! Is this a recent development? First check if your transmission oil (gear oil) is okay and is topped up properly. If the oil level has gone down, check if your gear box oil seals are okay. If you haven't done a transmission oil change since you bought the car, I can suggest that you do that first and see if the problem still persists.
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Toyota Aqua - Smart Key Function
Davy replied to Jeewana Madhuranga's question in Electrical problems
So your problem is sorted now or...? -
First off, congratulations! I had the same RPM issue on mine and it went away after I cleaned the ICV and throttle body.
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In case you didn't know, MADZ and the team were working on the new version of the website (although I'm not entirely sure the current status of the project). http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/13674-autolanka-new-site-2012/
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The first place you should look on Darley Road is L P Gunar@tne I guess.
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Yes, the CS3 has a 4G18 engine which is 1584cc and SOHC.
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Sorry I didn't see your reply earlier. Looks like I had my wires crossed on that one machang, you're absolutely right. Airbags and Alloys were indeed optional even for the GLX. For more info, see the image below which is shared in This Post. The info on the image might not be 100% correct for the Sri Lankan market. Not sure if Sampath (who shared the brochure in the other thread) got this from Unit#d Mot#rs.
