Rackend replacement

[vitz]

Hi All,

It looks that rackends of my car (Mit EC) have gone prematurely (40000 km). Don't want even try to contact the agent UM knowing the unjustifiable bill they will come up.

Can you guys enlighten me in the following.

1. The service manual says, the whole rack needs to be removed to make this replacement. But, usually garages do remove and replace the rackend without doing so. Is there a risk in it.

Actually, the vehicle is not making any steering noise indicating failure of steering components, but the excessive wear (outer side) of the front tires. A very slight play in wheels (vertical movement, ie 9 & 3 clock) was observed by the wheel alignment guy and his diagnosis was rack end failure. Could this be a wrong diagnosis?

2. The tool below is an option, to remove the rackend. would the use of this could damage the rack?

3. Who are the agents for CTR, JIKIU and 555 products. Do you have any experiences on those.

 

 

 

  

 

Edited November 5, 2023 by vitz

[iRage]

17 hours ago, vitz said:

Don't want even try to contact the agent UM knowing the unjustifiable bill they will come up.

Don't give up on the agents just yet. At least get a quote. For export market models Mitsubishi has a budget spare parts lineup which the agents used to provide. These are also available in Japan through Mitsubishi dealerships for JDM vehicles. Not sure if the SL agents have them as well. But check...you might realise that the total cost at the agent might not be too far off against a proper/reputable 3rd party garage and proper 3rd party parts.

 

17 hours ago, vitz said:

The service manual says, the whole rack needs to be removed to make this replacement. But, usually garages do remove and replace the rackend without doing so. Is there a risk in it.

Yes and no. Manufacturer repair guides typically have a set process that must be followed and parts that must be replaced to attend to a specific repair (e.g. according to the manufacturer process changing the oil requires the replacement of the drain plug washer and tightening the drain plug to a specific torque. We hardly do it do we ? Or...replacing the control arm bushings requires the replacement of the entire control arm but we just pack in new bushes instead of replacing the whole thing. So...the whole rack end replacement is the same. Removing the rack end and installing it according to the manufacturer process ensures that all the nuts and bolts are tightened to proper spec...any secondary parts (either directly linked to or would typically reach end of life with the rack ends) get replaced etc...Not following the process is not going to destroy your car. The risk is that if there is anything else wrong it might not be picked up and rectified. When the exact manufacturer process and parts replacement is not followed the typical outcome is longevity of the repair. This is typically the reason why, for example, the original control arm and bushes might last for 10 years whilst the replacement job one might do will only last for 4 or 5 years. Most users of average cars (in SL) don't care about it because in 4 to 5 years time the car will be someone else's problem.

[vitz]

On 11/6/2023 at 7:34 AM, iRage said:

Don't give up on the agents just yet. At least get a quote. For export market models Mitsubishi has a budget spare parts lineup which the agents used to provide. These are also available in Japan through Mitsubishi dealerships for JDM vehicles. Not sure if the SL agents have them as well. But check...you might realise that the total cost at the agent might not be too far off against a proper/reputable 3rd party garage and proper 3rd party parts.

 

Yes and no. Manufacturer repair guides typically have a set process that must be followed and parts that must be replaced to attend to a specific repair (e.g. according to the manufacturer process changing the oil requires the replacement of the drain plug washer and tightening the drain plug to a specific torque. We hardly do it do we ? Or...replacing the control arm bushings requires the replacement of the entire control arm but we just pack in new bushes instead of replacing the whole thing. So...the whole rack end replacement is the same. Removing the rack end and installing it according to the manufacturer process ensures that all the nuts and bolts are tightened to proper spec...any secondary parts (either directly linked to or would typically reach end of life with the rack ends) get replaced etc...Not following the process is not going to destroy your car. The risk is that if there is anything else wrong it might not be picked up and rectified. When the exact manufacturer process and parts replacement is not followed the typical outcome is longevity of the repair. This is typically the reason why, for example, the original control arm and bushes might last for 10 years whilst the replacement job one might do will only last for 4 or 5 years. Most users of average cars (in SL) don't care about it because in 4 to 5 years time the car will be someone else's problem.

Many thanks for the reply. I took it to the agent (kandy), however, it looks like they dont have any experts to identify the issue correctly. Just by moving the rie-end in horizontal direction they came to the conclusion that its a failure of the rack, needing nearly 4 lks to repair. 

Further, I wanted to get brake oil replaced as its almost 5 years gone. By looking at the color of oil they said no need of changing brake oil. But, little conductivity meter of mine said it got plenty of water. To my surprise, Unit#d Mot#rs in Kandy branch even does not have a brake oil moisture tester.... really unprofessional  

[iRage]

43 minutes ago, vitz said:

Further, I wanted to get brake oil replaced as its almost 5 years gone. By looking at the color of oil they said no need of changing brake oil. But, little conductivity meter of mine said it got plenty of water. To my surprise, Unit#d Mot#rs in Kandy branch even does not have a brake oil moisture tester.... really unprofessional

That is really sad to hear and very disappointing to see how UM has slipped. They used to be pretty good. Its dumb that they just looked at the color and said it is fine...even the user manuals of the cars they sell brand new say brake fluid needs to be replaced 2 (3?) years or 20,000 (30,000?) km.

[vitz]

3 minutes ago, iRage said:

That is really sad to hear and very disappointing to see how UM has slipped. They used to be pretty good. Its dumb that they just looked at the color and said it is fine...even the user manuals of the cars they sell brand new say brake fluid needs to be replaced 2 (3?) years or 20,000 (30,000?) km.

year, manual says the replacement is due in every 30000 or 2 years (Yesterday just I realized this). I am wondering why they were reluctant for brake fluid replacement even I requested it, saying the replacement of brake oil would fail the cylinder washers, bla bla....Its really pathetic to see bunch of unprofessional guys handling a place known to be reliable...

 

 

[vitz]

by the way steering rack adjustment as you see in this video, is it a common practice. Times I am wondering the play I am getting could be related to this. Anyways, I am planning first check rack ends through my own machanic and sort out this issue. There is little chance of failing a steering rack of EPS system, given the simplicity of the internal construction....

 

Edited November 15, 2023 by vitz

[iRage]

2 minutes ago, vitz said:

I am wondering why they were reluctant for brake fluid replacement even I requested it, saying the replacement of brake oil would fail the cylinder washers

Not changing it and allowing the fluid to get moisturized would still make the cylinder washers and metal components erode away. So makes no difference in that regard. Considering it has not been replaced for 5 years you might want to consider looking in to refurbishing the cylinders as well...

Strange...they don't want money ? I mean...c'mon you were giving them business and they ha the potential to escalate the work.

[vitz]

On 11/15/2023 at 7:53 AM, iRage said:

Not changing it and allowing the fluid to get moisturized would still make the cylinder washers and metal components erode away. So makes no difference in that regard. Considering it has not been replaced for 5 years you might want to consider looking in to refurbishing the cylinders as well...

Strange...they don't want money ? I mean...c'mon you were giving them business and they ha the potential to escalate the work.

Looks they don't need money and I will never visit this place again!!!!

[iRage]

5 hours ago, vitz said:

Looks they don't need money and I will never visit this place again!!!!

I wonder what will the techs at the main office say. If i were you I would write to the head office and ask why their user manual says one thing but they do another.

[Verify Btc]

On 11/6/2023 at 7:04 AM, iRage said:

Don't give up on the agents just yet. At least get a quote. For export market models Mitsubishi has a budget spare parts lineup which the agents used to provide. These are also available in Japan through Mitsubishi dealerships for JDM vehicles. Not sure if the SL agents have them as well. But check...you might realise that the total cost at the agent might not be too far off against a proper/reputable 3rd party garage and proper 3rd party parts.

 

Yes and no. Manufacturer repair guides typically have a set process that must be followed and parts that must be replaced to attend to a specific repair (e.g. according to the manufacturer process changing the oil requires the replacement of the drain plug washer and tightening the drain plug to a specific torque. We hardly do it do we ? Or...replacing the control arm bushings requires the replacement of the entire control arm but we just pack in new bushes instead of replacing the whole thing. So...the whole rack end replacement is the same. Removing the rack end and installing it according to the manufacturer process ensures that all the nuts and bolts are tightened to proper spec...any secondary parts (either directly linked to or would typically reach end of life with the rack ends) get replaced etc...Not following the process is not going to destroy your car. The risk is that if there is anything else wrong it might not be picked up and rectified. When the exact manufacturer process and parts replacement is not followed the typical outcome is longevity of the repair. This is typically the reason why, for example, the original control arm and bushes might last for 10 years whilst the replacement job one might do will only last for 4 or 5 years . Most users https://amiroofingcontractors.com/gutters/ of average cars (in SL) don't care about it because in 4 to 5 years time the car will be someone else's problem.