E39 Front Brake Pad Replace Diy

[dhp]

finally got the front pads replaced (between F1 Q3 and Le Mans coverage). I have done brake jobs on other makes but this was my first on a bimmer and it was the easiest brake job ever. This is not a complete writeup, so please feel free to add-on and correct me. [this car has been sitting for about a month and hence the rusty rotor]. Make sure that you DO NOT spray WD40 or brake cleaner on plastic/rubber or electrical components.

1 - Tools needed

other than what you would need to jack-up the car and remove wheel, you would need a 7mm Allen wrench, C-clamp, needle-nose pliers and a (larger) flat-head screwdriver. This shouldn't take more than 2-3 hrs so a few cold beers is also recommended to keep you cool and calm (esp if you bust a knuckle).

2 - Jack up the car using provided jack and also use a second jack or better a jack stand for support/safety. I used a second jack from my Nissan on the front lower frame

2.5 - remove the pad spring with care as it is loaded. You can pry this out with a large flat-head (place your hand on the spring to prevent it from getting airborne)

place flat-head between hub and spring, pry away from hub and then slightly pull towards yourself (away from rotor)

3 - Remove the 2 plastic caps to gain access to the 2 Allen bolts and loosen the bolts using the 7mm Allen Wrench. Try not to exert any stress on the brake lines/sensor wires.

once fully loosened, you might have to push the bolts out using a flat-head

once caliper is removed, secure it to the coil-spring using a wire to prevent any stress to the brake hoses.

4 - The brake sensor for the front wheels are located on the LHS wheel. If your sensor is still good, then pull the sensor out of the pad with care. If the sensor is bad (ie dash light is on) then, just do the same minus the "care". Remember how the sensor is laced thru as you will have to follow the same route to keep it away from any rotating/moving parts.

pry open the sensor-connector-housing and unplug the old sensor with "care"

- this is where I stopped taking photos as my hands were too greasy.

5 - Open the brake fluid reservoir. You wil have to remove the left cabin-air filter to gain access to this

using the C-clamp, compress the cylinder (go slowly) DON'T DAMAGE THE BOOT!

6 - compare the new pads with the old ones to assure that they're the correct size. You can go ahead and apply some anti-squeal compound to the back of the pads or paste schimms.

7 - install the new sensor thru the peep-hole and push it into the opening on the pad and lace it thru the various clamps and brackets upto the connector housing. Plug it in and make sure the connector lock is engaged.

8 - you can apply hi-temp grease to the caliper bolts before installing them. and replace the dust caps

9 - top off fluid replace the brake fluid reservoir cap and anything else you may have removed

10 - make sure you pump the brake pedal softly all the way down until the pedal starts to feel "normal" before you drive. Be careful and drive slowly for a few miles to ensure that everything is as it should be. Don't slam the brakes hard to test your brakes during this time. You won't have to bed your brakes unless you replaced the rotors.

If the brake rotor light was on, it should will get reset after a couple of starts.

Edited June 19, 2007 by dhp

[The Don]

Interesting article, thanks for taking the time to write up and post !

[dhp]

Interesting article, thanks for taking the time to write up and post !

ur welcome, hope it helps someone. I know I was a lil nervous doing a german car for the 1st time..