Newer Use Radiator Leak Stop.

[ravisam]

Hi Guys,

My car Toyota CT210 model had small water leak at the radiator top core to tank clamp joint. The plastic tank had been changed to copper by the previous owner. So I went to a radiator shop and they said they cannot repair copper to aluminum joint. From the same shop I purchased ABRO radiator leak stop and introduced to the coolant system. After a while I saw the temperature going up and upon inspection I found the leak stop blocked the water pathways.

Can anyone please tell me any remedy. Also I' like to know the price of a reconditioned radiator if anyone knows.

TX

[DVT]

  ravisam said:

Hi Guys,

My car Toyota CT210 model had small water leak at the radiator top core to tank clamp joint. The plastic tank had been changed to copper by the previous owner. So I went to a radiator shop and they said they cannot repair copper to aluminum joint. From the same shop I purchased ABRO radiator leak stop and introduced to the coolant system. After a while I saw the temperature going up and upon inspection I found the leak stop blocked the water pathways.

Can anyone please tell me any remedy. Also I' like to know the price of a reconditioned radiator if anyone knows.

TX

I had a similar issue in my previous car (Nissan FB 14) and applied a better glue cannot remember the name. It did cost me about Rs.900, but there was no use it will last only for a couple of weeks.

I tried to repair but the ASK PRICE WAS Rs.7000.

Finally I replaced the radiator at a cost of only Rs.8,000 (good quality ) from Dehiwala well known place (Hill street) .and it worked perfectly fine until I sold it.

The best thing is to replace. Repair doesn't make sense.

[Tikiri]

Hi, I got teh same model CT210 as our home taxi, we replaced with a local "Rad****r Hou**" I think cost

was about Rs 11,000 about an year ago and still works very well, after all the replacement is a copper one.

I am not convinced of any of these repir stuff as they are good to stop leaks other than the areas you got the problem.

Also, the recon ones can be in the range of Rs 15 to 23 ,ooo/- still you wouldn't know of the condition and for how long that would last too.

The only issue is if you want to sell it specially, and when you open the bonnet the radiator doesn't look as neat as the original one.

But it serves the purpose and will last for a very long time.

[ravisam]

  ravisam said:

Hi Guys,

My car Toyota CT210 model had small water leak at the radiator top core to tank clamp joint. The plastic tank had been changed to copper by the previous owner. So I went to a radiator shop and they said they cannot repair copper to aluminum joint. From the same shop I purchased ABRO radiator leak stop and introduced to the coolant system. After a while I saw the temperature going up and upon inspection I found the leak stop blocked the water pathways.

Can anyone please tell me any remedy. Also I' like to know the price of a reconditioned radiator if anyone knows.

TX

Thanks guys I corrected it myself. I opened the top tank by just opening the Aluminum Huck's. Upon inspection the top of the radiator core was completely blocked. Cleaned each and every passage by rodding and high pressure wash. I bought a new top tank from panchikawatta @2750/= and a pack of "JB Weld". I should have used the old Copper tank but since it looked ugly I replaced with plastic tank. Then kept the tank in place, applied JB weld and complete Huck was done. Since this is the second time they have opened about 25% of them cracked off. On top of the Huck's again JB weld applied. Allowed for 15 hours curing and put back to use. Now for the second day it runs perfectly.

What radiator guy told me is that you can not repair the joint. Bullshit!!!!

[E L N I N O]

  ravisam said:

Thanks guys I corrected it myself. I opened the top tank by just opening the Aluminum Huck's. Upon inspection the top of the radiator core was completely blocked. Cleaned each and every passage by rodding and high pressure wash. I bought a new top tank from panchikawatta @2750/= and a pack of "JB Weld". I should have used the old Copper tank but since it looked ugly I replaced with plastic tank. Then kept the tank in place, applied JB weld and complete Huck was done. Since this is the second time they have opened about 25% of them cracked off. On top of the Huck's again JB weld applied. Allowed for 15 hours curing and put back to use. Now for the second day it runs perfectly.

What radiator guy told me is that you can not repair the joint. Bullshit!!!!

hi machan, what is the place you got the top tank from? also what kind of tool u used to remove it? a normal plier would do?

i checked from radiator house. they quoted me 11k for a top tank replacement. ct lionel quoted only 8k. didnt ask whether i can buy only the plastic part though...

btw da car is a lancer cs1