Mobil Xhp Or Catrol Gtx?? For 1nzfe

rangerover · November 17, 2009

Guys,

What is the best engine oil and why?

1.Mobil XHP (Super 1000)

2.Castrol GTX (10W 40)

I need it for a Toyota 1NZ FE engine. Is it true that Toyota doesn’t recommend Castrol. Any reason for this?

What are the other mineral oils that are recommended? Other than cheap oils such as Lanka oil and laughs

shanX · November 17, 2009

I used Super XHP before, now using GTX (not a Toyota), felt like the engine is smooth, but again it could be coz I changed oil after like 5 months (not much KMs though)

ajwad · November 18, 2009

rangerover said:
Guys,
What is the best engine oil and why?

1.Mobil XHP (Super 1000)

2.Castrol GTX (10W 40)

I need it for a Toyota 1NZ FE engine. Is it true that Toyota doesn’t recommend Castrol. Any reason for this?

What are the other mineral oils that are recommended? Other than cheap oils such as Lanka oil and laughs

i used xhp but had problems where the piston rings vasted. now using gtx 20w-50. excellent on my mazda 323

rangerover · November 18, 2009

ajwad said:
i used xhp but had problems where the piston rings vasted. now using gtx 20w-50. excellent on my mazda 323

Machang, isnt 50 too thick? i was told to use an oil around 40 if a car engine is older just to take in to account engine ware, if not 30 is the ideal.

virensti · November 18, 2009

rangerover said:
Guys,
What is the best engine oil and why?

1.Mobil XHP (Super 1000)

2.Castrol GTX (10W 40)

I need it for a Toyota 1NZ FE engine. Is it true that Toyota doesn’t recommend Castrol. Any reason for this?

What are the other mineral oils that are recommended? Other than cheap oils such as Lanka oil and laughs

it really doesn't matter which oil you use. What matters is the oil change intervals.. For example if you run Mobil XHP(or super 1000 as it's called now) which I think is 15w-40 and change it after about 6-8 thousand km's, your asking for a huge amount of problems. Specially on the 1nz-fe which has a notorious sludging problem.. (Refer to the 95 oct thread) I didn't know Castrol GTX comes in 10w-40 though.. We use mobil super S plus (10w 40) for the vios which has the same 1NZ FE engine.

If you run a low viscosity oil like a super synthetic mobil 1 (0w-50) it'll give you super performance and superior cleaning compared to a mineral oil like super 1000 and Castrol (20W-50) etc.. Although it's true about low viscosity oil's not protecting the engine bearings and all that well, it's completely alright for our local conditions as none of our cars run at high RPM's or speeds. So it's good to have a low viscosity oil. A higher viscosity oil like the Castrol 20W-50 range will protect the engine as well as lower the performance a bit.

I strongly recomment you use the Mobil XHP or Super 1000 as it's a good oil with a low viscosity and a cheap price (2300 or something).. But please don't run the oil for any longer than 4000 km's (ideal changing milage is 3000km's) and avoid lanka oil's and caltex oils.. Lot's of people don't use it as it has been proved not to be that great of an oil.. I'm not sure what the problem with it is, however I do avoid it.

Anyways if you want to use Castrol go ahead. It's a matter of preference more than anything as most of those oils are in the same price range. Just make sure your change interval is down to a minimum.. Cheers. V.

virensti · November 18, 2009

ajwad said:
i used xhp but had problems where the piston rings vasted. now using gtx 20w-50. excellent on my mazda 323

Mate your piston rings couldn't have wasted cause of the oil.. There are alot of reasons for rings to get wasted.. Not just the oil.. But as I've mentioned above, running a thicker oil will protect your engine at the cost of a bit of performance

Ruslan · November 18, 2009

virensti said:
Mate your piston rings couldn't have wasted cause of the oil.. There are alot of reasons for rings to get wasted.. Not just the oil.. But as I've mentioned above, running a thicker oil will protect your engine at the cost of a bit of performance

but machan isn't it bad for cams? in a cold start it will take some time to reach the the head, since the oil is bit thicker than usual. most of the new motors recommended to put thinner oil i guess. (30).

it's better to stick with good branded oil and stick with 3000-4000 k oil changes. newer VVt-i s nasty for sludge issues.

Edited November 18, 2009 by Ruslan

virensti · November 18, 2009

Ruslan said:
but machan isn't it bad for cams? in a cold start it will take some time to reach the the head, since the oil is bit thicker than usual. most of the new motors recommended to put thinner oil i guess. (30).
it's better to stick with good branded oil and stick with 3000-4000 k oil changes. newer VVt-i s nasty for sludge issues.

it's different per oil mate. Cause see, the 0W-50 Super synthetic Mobil 1 is actually made for winters as well (0w= Winter) so that way the oil is good. But since very few people can afford the 7500 rs' per can and change it at 3000km's, it's best to go for a cheaper oil like castrol or Mobil. But what you said is true mate as one of the problems for sludging is engines not getting up to operating temperature.. So many people start the engines for about 5 seconds just to move the car back or something.. It not only kills the engine (as the oil pressure hasn't built up yet in that short time) but also doesn't allow the oil to get to operating temp.. 20W-50 is good for an old engine with a bit of wear and tear I guess. But as I said it's about the changing intervals.

And by newer vvt's I hope you mean ALL vvt-i engines. They all have the same problem..

Vvt gives perfect combustion throughout the entire rev range, so therefore alot of water is created (as it's a byproduct of the petrol=air combustion) so the water mixes with the oil. When you keep running the same oil, alot of water gets into it, therefore creating sludge.. But that isn't the only reason for sludge. However that's one of the main reasons why vvt-i engines get messed up.. It's also a similar stories for turbo petrol engines.. Anyways all this sludging issues have been discussed pretty thoroughly in the 95 oct thread. Just search for "Don't use 95 octane and synthetic oil" thread.. I think that's the name..

rangerover · November 19, 2009

Thanks virensti for the very descriptive explanations. I just bought the car with 67k on the clock (u never know) but there is currently no engine sludge. Hence i dont want to mess it up with cheaper oils. Will try Catrol GTX this time and change it within 3,000 Km.

The issue is i run my car only about 400 - 450 Km per month (and a usual trip to office one way is around 8Km, Which i go in this car only about 2-3 times a week. Mostly it is weekend use which i do about 40km max for a weekend). So this 3,000 Km would be a stretch for me wouldnt it? should i change at a lower mileage or in exactly 3 months even though i havent hit the 3k mark?

virensti · November 19, 2009

rangerover said:
Thanks virensti for the very descriptive explanations. I just bought the car with 67k on the clock (u never know) but there is currently no engine sludge. Hence i dont want to mess it up with cheaper oils. Will try Catrol GTX this time and change it within 3,000 Km.
The issue is i run my car only about 400 - 450 Km per month (and a usual trip to office one way is around 8Km, Which i go in this car only about 2-3 times a week. Mostly it is weekend use which i do about 40km max for a weekend). So this 3,000 Km would be a stretch for me wouldnt it? should i change at a lower mileage or in exactly 3 months even though i havent hit the 3k mark?

You're welcome. that's fine mate, change it at 3k or in about 3 or 4 months if you haven't hit that amount. Btw try and get a good long run at least once in 2 or 3 weeks to make sure your engine gets a good long workout. maybe about a 50 km drive? it might seem like a waste of petrol but it's good for the engine to stretch it's legs once in awhile.. And also a couple of high rpm moments will do good to make sure the vvt and everything else is working properly.. If it's an auto get onto a open road (Say parliment road or baseline) and at about 40 km/h floor it and let it climb up to about 80 or 90 km/h and don't let off till it shifts at redline or just before.. It'll burn quite alot of petrol but it'll also clean up some carbon and ensure everything's working. If it's a manual just floor it on 2nd till about 5500 or 6000 Rpm. Just doing this occasionally will be good