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Take a look at this, this was under capacities, However when I check the dipstick, oil levels appear slightly on the high side and mostly new-ish with a tinge of old oil.

Finally found a thread to record this, for other users awareness So I have this daily runner a 2014 Montero Sport, Just took it in for ATF change to the agents, Kandy branch ie. So I was there each step of the way, they took the sump off, cleaned the magnets, cleaned the filter with carb cleaner, took off a banjo bolt on the side, let the whole thing drain out, then quick refilled the thing via a dipstick and with just 5 LITRES the dipstick levelled off, Anyone with even a palathsaba pajero would know these gearboxes will hold well over 9 litres, thereby after arguing with the mechanic, then taking the same to the superiors, they say that they have never filled more than 5 litres and the dipstick is on the dot. Thereafter after extensive research I found out the service manual says 9.7 litres in the gearbox, thus asking them to drain the hoses as well. Youtube videos suggest a engine start stop technique to pump all the oil out, which they never did. Thereafter on further research I found out that due to easier running and sustainability costs, in Asian markets they advice partial ATF changes half or 2/3, every 40,000-50,000km rather than messing with the gearbox internals and pipes. Then again looking back, the jokers at the agents never knew this had 9.7 litres inside and never knew the math behind this 5 litre ATF change their computer system suggested. Also where this partial method suggests only to drain via the nut, they did take the sump apart and clean the bits. However my previous bills suggest they have taken charged me for 10litres of ATF with same labour charge previously in the popular Colombo branch sometime back for a similar vehicle Mixed theories / methods I would say, more or less is the agent running on protocol or gut feeling?

There is no issue with my battery I just wanted to clarify a doubt. Hypothetical situation where we popped in a bigger battery Exactly wanted to clarify this Um. There is no issue with my vehicle There is a bit of a load by aux lighting and sound system. But no big concern

Well, found this thread and thought of discussing a similar subject. Well vehicles come with particular battery sizes as stock with an AH rating. Say there was space in the tray and price didn't matter, would there be any benefit in up-sizing the battery capacity. Stock alternator btw Example : 75Ah stock setup vs 100Ah newer battery

A small Suggestion Why don't we with moderators support of course make a single thread index sorta thing, with useful contacts of Mechanics, Painters, Tinkers, Electricians, A/C Technicians, Spare parts, fibre joints, so on, from city to city, Islandwide even relevant to particular makes, models Based on past experience and personal views as well, on trust basis too someday it may come in handy to any of us, say we go outstation, or we buy a different car, Just an idea, feel free to share opinions, of course one persons opinion on one place may vary to another's but still all this info may come as the world to another noob looking for some help fixing his car. Like they say, Good help is hard to find! Cheers

Its Mitsubishi Fuel System Cleaner, Used it twice in 2 vehicles under agent recommendation, poured it in myself with a full tank, No issues i've crossed 20000km in both http://www.mitsubishi-motors.com/en/maintenance/engine/fuel.html

There is an Branded OEM Mitsubishi Cleaner at the agents, I've used it and it makes a noticeable difference.

If its like 12,000 bucks for the above with toyota genuine oil and filter, isn't it cheap besides with comprehensive maintenance history you have a certain credibility when disposing the car one day. Also they do a bit of peeping around to find a faulty unit that you may miss elsewhere, even though you necessarily go change then and there with them. I find that information very valuable

Well sadly they say otherwise, spoke to my trusty mechanic for over 20 years, he too says needs tensioner and pulley changes so on

Hi everyone, Using this old thread for a question, Well the issue is I am reaching 80,000km on a L200 (Di-d 2014 YOM 4D56U CRDI engine) and thus need a timing belt change along the way, When inquiring from the agents the belt itself costs a reasonable 10,000 bucks whereas they recommend a complete redo of all mechanical bits relating to the belt, pulleys, tensioners, seals so on leading to about 70,000 bucks excluding labour. This is without even looking at the vehicle. The vehicle barely carries any load, but just used to make long distance runs owing to approx 500km a week, driven fairly fast, with Auto Transmission and Super select 4wd My question is this really necessary or just would just replacing the belt proper suffice?

If you try to do this mechanically u will end up with a Frankenstien with no value, mostly illegal, plenty on the roads now covered up with E*-XXXX numbers If you try to use your number with a real defender black import, again no value and totally illegal, yet plenty on the roads Buy with the new laws spooling up you are likely to get convicted eventually, thus avoid the above If you want a real defender, better off buying a real chassis with reg and build it ground up, Will be solid and will have the value with time. Remember LRs are quite un-reliable unless you do them up properly, and expensive But now trends are picking up where people restore series IIs with better running gear retaining the same look and chassis more or less a restomod as defenders are kinda all over now and series IIs are getting rarer as people tend to chop them up.

Try early pajero SWB or 4DR6-T Based Safari body Jeep units

Cheap to run does not make sense with any SUV in this country mate

They have their independent perks, depends on your budget and requirement I'd go for the diesel

Well the verdict kinda changes based on the fuel type and engine Pros Its a large SUV, good off road, good road presence, 7 seater, good cargo bay Corners OK, pulls well (V6) Of course reliable, Comfortable Bits easy to find, not always costly Cons Relatively expensive to maintain ( service varies between 10000 to 50000 LKR based on the retailer and standard of spares used) Both engines thirsty, don't expect hybrid figures Relatively old now, expect repairs, costly ones as well Insurance proportional to the sum you pay for it Tyres expensive, Will constantly need attention due to minor wear and tear All in all stick to a genuine car, lesser owners, lower mileage <100,000km and if possible standard spec imported by agents and of course agent maintained, Try to get it inspected by a professional.

HI there, Stepping in for a bit of info on the Cefiro, had one back in 2004 when they came in, For starters its more of a land barge feel, Epic aircon, very comfortable soft suspension, and pulls really well, I'll never forget the massive teak lump on the dash. Do note they are quite thirsty, the V6 does like 4 to 6kmpl (95OC) We as in my dad used to maintain it at the agents and a reputed Service station / Workshop in the suburbs of Kandy, During the time we had no issues, would be a bit hard to get about and park in a city but that was no issue back then. Don't expect them to be trouble free now as they would have seen many miles now, Certain bits are hard to find as well.

Agents tend to cook up various reasons and excuses to bill you enormous sums, as a informed consumer you would know the abuse your car took and if this maintenance is required at this given instance, but in all every automatic gearbox does need an oil change along the way. So do a bit of online research before you go shell out.