Davy

Good point. The Montero Sport was available in Japan as Mitsubishi Challenger though. The front end has subtle differences from the one we get locally. Body parts that OP needs are different from the L200. They share the same chassis design though, so most chassis parts are compatible.

Sounds like a serious frontal accident. ? Try Mahinda on 0714762223.

I'm not sure about this particular valve, but my first guess is that is not an adjustment screw. It's either an access port to clean the valve or not a rotatable/removable part at all. Do you have the valve with you and have you tried rotating the lighter coloured part that looks like a screw?

You need to stop spamming all the threads with comments like this. Gosh. I'm tired of cleaning useless posts this morning.

Please stop spamming the forum with the same post. If you have a problem with the said agent, why don't you make a complaint at the Consumer Affairs Authority? Not saying that your issue will be resolved by doing so, but it's certainly better than posting vague statements on the Internet. Also, maybe you can start by explaining what happened so that members can get a clearer picture of the situation.

I could remove and reconnect them with my eyes closed back in the day. But my memory has failed me after all these years. May I suggest getting help from a fellow A72 owner and checking how they're connected on their car? Hoping to see photos of the finished paint job! ?

The Presea has been discussed so many times on the forum. Go through this thread. Also search the forum. Threads merged.

Yep, Mazna would be your best bet if you want OEM Mazda 2/Demio visors. They import brand new parts, so if they don't have, they should be able to import for you. Ask Mr. Lalith and see.

You're right. From memory, the EP82 has an in-line check valve instead of one built into the booster. So should be easily replaceable if proven faulty. Getting the valve tested should be easy. Most mechanics blow from both ends to see if air flows only in one direction. ? The proper way is to hook up a pressure gauge and apply mild pressure onto the opposite side. Then flip the valve and repeat. Pressure should hold in one direction while it shouldn't in the other direction. If the valve is good, then the booster needs to be checked as it could be leaking which explains why the RPM drops when the brake is depressed.

He is. Has helped quite a few of my friends too although I've not met him personally (yet). A valuable member of the forum as well.

Pretty much any good garage should be able to check this for you. According to the symptoms you've described, the vacuum leak is either on the vacuum line connecting the brake booster and the intake manifold, or in the brake booster itself. You can check the brake booster yourself by following the steps listed in the post below: You can also follow the vacuum line between the booster and intake manifold to make sure there are no cracks or pinholes, and to make sure the hose is tightly secured at both ends.

Threads merged.

It's Not OK to top up AC gas every 45 days. That's ridiculous. Go to a proper AC workshop and get it pressure tested. Some places do a UV dye test and the best way to identify small leaks.

Relative, next door neighbour, doctor, professional, lady... whoever it is you brought your car from, it's a used car. You never know how they drove it. Being a genuine person doesn't necessarily make them a good car owner or driver. So you need to do fluid changes as soon as you buy a used car. So do a CVT oil change and make sure you use the correct CVT oil. For pretty much any automatic transmission issue, changing the oil is first step. I'm surprised TL didn't do it. Having said that, delays and slight jerks are pretty normal on CVTs, especially when shifting to R when cold. This is quite apparent in Subarus and Hondas. Since yours got worse progressively and as you say, if it transmits a severe shock across the car, it certainly isn't normal.

First, get the automatic transmission fluid level checked. It maybe under-filled causing low fluid pressure. Was the fluid change done by taking off the oil pan, cleaning it and replacing the filter or was it just a drain and refill?

Well done @kusumsiri. Having a workshop manual sure opens lots of interesting avenues doesn't it. Even if you have it, you need to be brave enough to take a transmission apart and put it back together. So again, kudos!

Again... Scotty's so called "valuable knowledge" is questionable and has sparked controversy on many occasions. While most of what he talks about is common sense, you have to take his advise with a bit of caution because sometimes he talks utter BS and that unfortunately is the truth. I guess with whatever you watch on YouTube, you have to exercise caution so as to not be influenced by people who are popular for the wrong reasons. But hey, if entertainment is what you're after, then who am I to stop ya. ? As for the friction between Scotty and ChrisFix, it does matter to viewers. Especially to people who actually attempt to DIY after being inspired by their videos. Also to people who believe Chris to be a credible source of information. If you followed the time when Scotty went after Chris about his DIY headlight restoration video, you'll see what I mean. Here's a summary: This is just one of many instances.

As I've said many times, although he has his "50 years of experience", he just has controversial opinions. If you give a 10mm spanner to a monkey and ask it to tighten and loosen a bolt for a couple of years non stop, the monkey will eventually become very good at it, and even find more efficient ways to do it. That's basically Scotty. At least in my opinion. So whatever he says needs to be taken with a grain of salt. Also, if he isn't mature enough to understand that not everyone's dream car is a Celica (or a Toyota), then I guess there is no point in even questioning about the guy's credibility. As for ChrisFix, he has got to be one of my most admired YouTubers among Jason Fenske from Engineering Explained and of course the Aussie duo Marty (he's my favourite) and Moog from Mighty Car Mods. Some of the other channels I follow are: Bad Obsession Motorsport where Nik and Richard - two blokes from the UK have been building a classic Mini Cooper (Project Binky) and those guys are probably the couple of the most talented guys I've seen with broad knowledge on everything about cars. If you follow Project Binky, you'll get what I mean. If I want to be mezmarised about classic car restoration photo montages, I always turn to Hand Built Cars and Low Mileage. Wasabi Cars for all JDM classics, auctions etc., Donut Media if you need a quick history lesson on a particular car (see their "Everything You need to know" videos), Rich Rebuilds for interesting videos about putting together written off Teslas. These are a few from the top of my mind. If I remember more, I will share. ?

A little update on the Mazda: I've been driving it on a daily basis now for the past two and a half months or so. The car feels so good to drive and I'm glad I went for the SP20 with the 2L engine. The Mrs also absolutely loves driving it. Apart from filling her up with petrol, I haven't done much to the car. I got rid of the bonnet protector because it was giving the car a grandpa look, and I waxed it once after a wash. The bonnet has a lot of stone chips which are really hard to see from a distance, but you can clearly see them up close. I plan to get a touch up paint kit and cover them up soon. I paid a couple of visits to the salvage yard just 15 minutes from where I live and found four 323 hatchbacks there. I wanted to pick up a AC blower motor (the one on the car is noisy), a wiper arm, driver's side mirror (as mentioned in a post above), centre control ashtray bezel (the one on the car is cracked) and a tailgate gas strut as the left one appears to be leaking a tiny bit although it holds up the tailgate up. The red 323 here is a 2002 car and has only minor damage to the front right. If it were in Sri Lanka, this car would be back on the road within about a week or so. Look how clean the interior still is. The trims and glove box were removed by me to take the AC blower motor out. Otherwise it was pretty neat. After bringing the parts home, I thoroughly cleaned the blower motor before installing it. That took me about an hour or so. This motor is also noisy, but not as bad as the one that was on the car. All of these parts cost me about 20 AUD (that is around 2500 LKR I think). I went to the same salvage yard again to pick up a front door speaker (passenger door speaker was not working), a couple of lug nuts (one lug nut was damaged for some reason) and a few clips for the engine under tray. Lug nuts and clips were just lying on the ground and they didn't even charge me for them. Only paid a couple of dollars for the speaker. I first took out the door card of the same red 323 I picked out the other parts from. Since it was my first time removing this particular door card, I remembered where all the clips and screws are so that I can carefully do the same on mine. Took out the door card and installed the speaker. Now I've got all four speakers working.

Could be due to low fuel pressure. To determine if this is the cause, get a mechanic to hook up a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail and have you start the car while the car is showing the symptoms. If you have low fuel pressure, it could be due to a bad fuel pump, clogged fuel filter or faulty furl pressure regulator. How many kilometres ago did you last do a fuel system clean-up (i.e tune up)?

During a cold start, does your idle RPM raise to around 2000 and gradually settle down to normal as the engine warms up? Also, is your idle RPM when warm stable at around 650 - 750?

The two options shown in Google Maps when Kandy and Tangalle is punched in are basically the same you've listed except the second one goes through Weeraketiya after Embilipitiya instead of Angunakolapelessa. There's a significant difference in distance between the two where the expressway is about 50km more than the other route, but just over half an hour quicker. Directions Here You can go to Street View and check the condition of the roads (example), but when I checked, some of the images were from 2015, so it might be different now.

Hi Rajith, Welcome to the forum. What sort of work do you need to get done? Interior work, unless something like wiring or electrical which is specific to a model, is quite generic. If you want interior trims or upholstery repaired, any good upholsterer should be able to do it for you. So which is it?

Yeah sounds like the front right shock has reached the end of it's lifetime. There used to be suspension testing places around Hyde Park, but I'm not sure if they are still operational. You could get a suspension test done before taking them out for replacement. If and when you decide to go for new shocks, and when you have the old shocks out of the car. Measure the front ones from top to bottom to see if there is a difference in length. If there is, when the coil spring is separated, measure just the coil springs from end to end to make sure they are equal length. If not, you might have to replace the coil springs as well although highly unlikely. You can just replace the fronts for starters.

It's X amount of kilometers or X amount of months - whichever comes first. In your case, the X amount of months has come first. So do the service. Engine oil breaks down over time regardless of usage. In a humid country like Sri Lanka, the impact of humidity on oil is higher.