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Everything posted by Davy
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2004 lancer ECU ignition signal lost after t belt teeth loss
Davy replied to RoshanDknight's question in Electrical problems
Glad you managed to sort it out. Thanks for reporting back. -
First you need to get the exhaust inspected to find out where exactly the leak is. If it's a leak in one of the pipes, you can simply get it repaired. If it's a resonator or muffler that has gone bad, then you're looking at a bit more expensive repair because you might have to replace them.
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In my case, I had some deep scratches which had to be touched up using a touch up pen. Then I used wet sandpaper (1200 grit) and lightly sanded the area followed by a polish using Armour All cut and polish. If yours is just clear coat scratches, a simple cut and polish would do.
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- cy4a
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Please plz search the forum.
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Mazda Demio 2000 performance issue
Davy replied to shan_dissanayake's question in Mechanical problems
After a cold start, does the RPM go above say 1500 and slowly stabilise to a normal level (700) when the engine becomes warm? Does the RPM drop happen even when the AC is switched off? When did you last get a tune-up done (throttle body clean-up etc.)? -
Thanks mate. Yes, the RalliArt does have stiffer suspension than the Lancer. Yes, as I've mentioned above, I just hate that gap. I'm weighing my options between coilovers + grey stock wheels vs the Evo wheels + stock shocks. Theere is very little clearance at the front on full steering lock, so I'm not sure I'd be able to go for coilovers with these wheels without having to do a major suspension change.
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A productive weekend. Installed the wheels and the heated seat wiring! This is just after coming back from the tyre shop. The centre caps have not been put on yet. I only got the wheels balanced, but not aligned. The front needs camber adjustment by the looks. That gap at the back is a bit scary too although the wheels didn't rub when I did a bit of heavy driving on humps and stuff. They will definitely rub when the car is fully loaded, so lowering is now off the table. The car is more steady when cornering now due to the wider tyres. I'm not 100% about the colour. I might just dip all the wheel faces in Anthracite Grey. But she looks pretty badass now IMO. Spent a good 4 hours or so installing the heated seats. What seemed a simple job turned out to be a bit more complex due to the fact that almost half the dashboard and the entire centre console needed to be taken off to do a proper wiring job. Mid-job. Butchered interior. The centre console and the new wiring. In operation. Passenger seat on high and driver's seat on low. The heat takes a couple of minutes to kick in. Also, the heaters don't work if no weight is detected on the seats.
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Thank you! I'm doing great machan. Yourself and the B4? Yes, the drive on snow was a different experience for me, but the car seemed very comfortable on the different surfaces I put her through during the few hours.
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Yeah I don't think you should worry about it. Let's see if other Lancer EX owners see this thread and respond. @E L N I N O is one person I can think of. Also, the CS3 does make a sound when the ignition is switched on. It comes from the IACV. You need to stand very close to the throttle body area (with your ear buried in there really) and you will hear a faint clicking sound.
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Finally! Evolution X MR BBS wheels, powder coated in charcoal grey. Arrived today and loving them! Another update: I took apart the entire interior of the car to clean it up and found that there is a connector on both font seat that is not connected to anything. Lifted up the carpet and found that the other end of the connector, coming out of a wire harness in the car has also been taped to the harness. I assumed they were for heated seats. From memory, heated seats was an option only on the Evo. Anyway, after a bit of research on some local (Australian) forums, I found out that they can be hooked up relatively easily. Here's the thread if anyone is interested. So I got the switch and the wiring harness from eBay. I need a relay and a fuse to complete the job, so that's up next as well. Here's the switch and the wiring harness: Stay tuned!
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Guess what @Jor-el, the buzzing sound is there on mine as well (being different engines also). It comes from the throttle body for sure and I'm pretty sure it is from the electronic throttle (the part is probably same on all engines), because applying pressure on the electronic throttle causes the frequency of the sound to change. Some other findings are: - Sound is emitted regardless of whether it's before a cold start or when the engine is at working temperature. - It seems to stop as soon as the engine starts - It lasts for a brief moment after the ignition is switched off I'm going to assume it's normal for now. Have to do a bit more digging, failing which I will ask the mech at my next service, because I get it done at the agent. EDIT: Adding a video to demonstrate mine I switch the ignition ON at 0:06 and crank the engine at 0:11. During this period, you can hear the buzz (listen on full volume). The ticking sound can be heard very well at 0:06 for about a second.
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Agree with Crosswind. Don't blindly replace the ECU and expect everything to work. There are things that you should rule out before even considering ECU replacement. For example, does each spark plug get a consistent spark when this issue occurs? If not, it could be due to a faulty ignition coil. They are known to fail with age when the engine heats up. The Wira has a 4G Mitsubishi engine and you should be able to find many compatible spares around.
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The ticking sound is normal. I have the same ticking noise and I've heard this on pretty much every 2008+ Lancer. According to what I've read, it's the ABS and EBD systems powering up and performing a self-check. Strange, I haven't heard this buzzing sound though. I'll check my car and let you know tomorrow. Almost midnight here now.
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The video gets stuck from 0:15 onwards for me, but the audio goes on. From what I see, the sound seems to be emitted from the throttle body area, and it sounds like an electric hum. Am I right? The only components in the throttle body I can think of that can make this kind of sound is the electronic throttle or the idle control stepper motor, but highly unusual. Is there any issue with the car? Or is it just that the sound is heard and the car operates normally? Also, does the frequency of the sound change/intensify/soften if you gently press the accelerator pedal while the sound is heard? I should try this on my car. Will let you know.
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Search the forum before opening new threads. Mahinda is your best bet. @MADZ, can you please merge this thread with the one above? Thanks!
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You don't need to blindly replace it. It can be removed and visually inspected determine if it's damaged or if the bushes inside the mount are broken. Remember, this is just one possibility. From memory, the City has a multi-link suspension setup at the back, so a lot more links and bushes that move around to keep the car stable. A more sophisticated design from an average Toyota, but given the age of the car, it probably needs a bit of TLC. So put the car up on a hoist and inspect each link and the ends to make sure that all bushes and linkages are in good condition. As for a garage, I'm afraid being overseas for over two years has distanced me from knowledge about the best places around. Hope another member can help out. You can check out the Mechanics/Workshops thread as well.
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Suspension noises (and other noises in general) is a bit difficult to diagnose without inspecting the vehicle in person. My response above was simply to guide you to check the shock mounts. However, when replacing struts, it's better to replace the mounts even if there is the slightest indication of wear. This is to prevent having to remove the shocks again to replace just the mounts. Regarding your question about replacing mounts on both side - yes, replace mounts on both sides, It is important to maintain proper suspension geometry, even at the rear. Get it diagnosed by a proper mechanic first.
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Were the shockabsorber mounts replaced during the repair? Since the old shock didn't provide any damping, the mount would have taken a beating. If it was damaged even slightly and reused, there's a possibility that it could be the cause of the sound.
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Reduced Brake and Paddle goes down even engine stopped.
Davy replied to VishwaR's question in Mechanical problems
Perform the test below explained by @Rumesh88 to determine if your brake booster (servo) is working normally. According to your description, it looks like the booster is working as it should, but do this yourself since it's easy and we can rule out a faulty booster by doing so. Was the old oil in the system drained and was the system bled on all four corners with the new oil? Was your master pump overhauled with a repair kit? Given that the car was sitting for a long time without being used, new oil is a must and if the pedal sinks, get the master pump overhauled. These are very minor repairs and wouldn't cost you much. -
The brakes are self adjusting. A possibility is that the adjusting mechanism on one side is faulty. An inspection inside the drums will tell you. Didn't you have a brake issue on your car recently and get it sorted?
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A recall doesn't mean that the issue has to be there from day one, or after x amount of Kilometres. On some vehicles, the issue wouldn't have surfaced at all, but the manufacturer does the repair anyway to prevent the risk. Anyway, I was pointing out the fact that you might be able to get the issue fixed free of charge if this is related to the recall. Up to you to check it out. Recall issue or not, your car shouldn't be on the road until your EPS is repaired - for your safety and the safety of others.
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I remember the Yaris having a recall for power steering failure which was due to a faulty EPS control module. If your car was imported brand new, you should be able to ring Toyota Lanka and provide the chassis number and inquire if your car is affected. I wouldn't advice driving your car like this due to the potential risk. Get it checked out immediately. As I mentioned before, diagnostic scan first. If that doesn't show any errors, the EPS system will have to be checked out anyway. The agent is the best place to go for something like this IMO because they will perform proper checks.
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Welcome to the forum. Sounds like an intermittent loss of power assistance. Does the Yaris have EPS? If yes, you should get a diagnostic scan done to determine if there are errors in the system. The EPS motor or related components might be failing. If it's just regular hydraulic power steering, it can be a slipping drive belt, lack of power steering fluid. You can get them checked out easily. If they're fine, then the power steering system will have to be checked out for faults in the hydraulic lines, linkages or even the rack itself.
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Advertising done right: http://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/entertainment/news/a31562/the-grand-tour-is-leaving-crashed-priuses-all-over-london/
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Seriously? After all the negative reviews, safety concerns and even owners' complaints? What good is leg space if there's the risk of legs being automatically amputated in the event of a severe accident?
