Davy
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Everything posted by Davy
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Good job! Nice to see more people doing the double din conversion.
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How about buying one of those tents that you can assemble yourself with a waterproof canvas? This way, when you decide to leave the annex, you can take the garage with you. I haven't used one of them but I have had to resort to using a canvas sheet that I bought from the roadside (in front of SLIIT in Malabe) for about 2 years and it held up pretty well. I secured the sheet to two walls on either side and made sure that water doesn't gather on it and cause it to tear. It wasn't the best, but it did the job of keeping the car off the sun and rain. If you are parking the car on an unpaved surface (grass or dirt), then you should also keep in mind that the moisture from the ground can also result in the undercarriage developing surface rust which may cause corrosion. As a solution, you can buy some cheap concrete tiles and lay them out and park the car on top of that.
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2004 lancer ECU ignition signal lost after t belt teeth loss
Davy replied to RoshanDknight's question in Electrical problems
I see. I think your best bet to identifying the issue is to first get the crank position sensor checked out. The sensor has three wires (I fail to remember the colour codes now because it has been a long time) and you need to perform three tests using a multimeter. Note that all the tests need to be done with the ignition in ON position with multimeter in DC, and the ignition coils disconnected from the connectors. If your mechanic has experience as you say, he would know where to find the crank position sensor connector. You can basically access it from the top of the engine. 1. Positive: Check the + of the sensor with the chassis of the car or battery negative terminal. It should give a 12v reading. 2. Ground: Check the ground line of the sensor against the battery positive terminal. This too should give 12v. 3. Signal: Check the signal line of the sensor against chassis of the car (or battery negative) while someone manually spins the crankshaft with a tool attached to the sprocket. You should see the voltage alternate between 0 and 5V, twice between one revolution of the crankshaft. Again, if your mech has the said experience, he should be knowing all this. You can also refer to the workshop manuals that are already shared in the forum in this thread. Also, have you considered that the camshaft might be out of balance or something due to the timing belt slippage? Considering that your valves were also bent, this is something I would look into since you say there is a 1mm difference in alignment. Hope this helps and do keep us updated. -
2004 lancer ECU ignition signal lost after t belt teeth loss
Davy replied to RoshanDknight's question in Electrical problems
The ignition signal is determined (by the ECU) by looking at the signal from the crankshaft position sensor. When your timing belt slipped, the crankshaft would have ended up in a different position than normal which would have caused the sensor to pick up the signal at different time than when the ignition coil (that supplies current to two plugs) requires a trigger. So my guess is that whoever carried out the repair messed up alignment of timing marks when installing the new belt. I can't see how the factory ECU could fail just because the belt slipped. Take the car to a good garage, or better - the agents themselves and explain the situation and get it sorted. Make sure you put that old ECU back in. Good luck and keep us posted. -
ABS, Handbreak and check engine bulbs give alarms
Davy replied to Ted's question in Mechanical problems
Do a diagnosic scan and find out what the errors are. That's your first step. I'm guessing it's a connection issue. Maybe the mechanics unplugged a connector/relay and failed to put it back in correctly? -
Risk of caught in fire and Car Fire Extinguishers
Davy replied to shirand's topic in General Automotive
Having had personal experience with a car catching fire, I would never say no to having a fire extinguisher on board. In my case, it was during the first trip after the car bring stored away for about 6 months. Rats had chewed up the wiring in the car which lead to a short circuit. Long story short, it was one of the scariest days of my life. Thanks to the good people who came to my assistance, I was able to save the car. Others are right about using a Co2 one and keep it inside the car (under the seat or dash - basically somewhere within arms reach ) and not in the trunk. Finally, don't contemplate on your car catching fire, just look after it well and do your regular maintenance on time. -
Looking awesome Hoonigan! That retro looking dash. Wow! Love to see her in person some time when I'm there.
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That looks like a result of being exposed to the sun regularly. Another option is to cover the entire door card with rexine. Check the following thread . If you want, you can use plastic primer and then paint the surface again, but the soft and powdery stuff need to be lightly sanded and that will result in the original texture of the surface being lost . Check page 2 of the above thread .
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- dw3w
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You can also try using a file to flattern two opposite sides of the bolt so that a smaller spanner can be used to remove it. Will probably take longer than the chisel and hammer, but lower risk of the bolt breaking off IMO. This will only work if you have enough space around the bolt to manoeuvre a file.
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Nissan purchases 34% controlling stake of Mitsubishi. Source: CNet
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My RalliArt has shims, so I'm guessing the EX also has although brakes are a bit different between the two. However, I doubt it's due to missing shims because OP says that the rattle can be felt through the steering.
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I used a TOA spray can. I don't think 2K will be harsh on the lenses. But you can do a pretty decent job using just a spray can, provided that you clean the surfaces well before, and that you spray even coats, about 20 minutes apart. After all coats have been applied, the surface might look a bit textured (just like when a car is newly painted and before polishing). But that will go away after wet sanding (2000 grit) and then polishing.
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I have used clear coat and that works well too. After three coats of clear, wet sand and polish and it looks as good as new, and holds up well against the local sunlight.
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First of all, I don't think this is a "common problem with the car", but depends on the condition of the roads you drive on frequently. I'm a bit surprised to hear that the agent couldn't diagnose the issue properly. When the rack ends were replaced, we're the tie rod ends also replaced with them? According to your description, my assumption is that the car was driven for some time with the noise which in turn affected the steering rack. Put the car on a hoist and check for excessive free play between the steering linkages. Depending on the extent of damage, you might be able to get the steering rack machined.
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- lancer ex
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To add to what Rumesh has mentioned above, you may not be able to completely remove all air from the brake system if what you did caused air to get trapped inside the ABS module. This is why it's important to take your car to a place that will be able to confirm that the brake system is completely bled out.
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Welcome to the forum! Check this Facebook group: https://#####/galantclubofsrilanka/ Make a post and see. There might be someone willing to sell. Also, do a search on the forum to find information about the car. @Sierra Charlie is your guy for all Galant related advice.
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The gap between the spoiler and trunk lid should be sealed off using a gasket or a bit of gasket maker at least so that water does not seep in through the gap and cause the trunk lid to corrode or leak into the trunk. Read the below post for more information: Note that the part number for the facelift spoiler gasket might be different from what I have got.
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I honestly don't see anything wrong with that sprocket. It's just polished off a bit from years of use. Unless the teeth are broken or something, I think using this one is fine. If you still decide to go head for a new one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-L200-K74-SHOGUN-SPORT-96-06-ENGINE-CRANKSHAFT-CAMSHAFT-DRIVE-SPROCKET-/381566763435?hash=item58d726c1ab:g:pE8AAOSwP~tW4own&vxp=mtr Part number is: MD164831
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- mitsubishi
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Good work! That indeed is a very clean Carina GT.
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Petrol isn't hard on plastic, if it was, then injectors and other plastic components inside carburetors should be affected by it. But yes, engine degreaser is the way to go.
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Looks like the same issue as OP's. Distributor oil seal.
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The CK Lancer has been discussed many times on the forum. Search and you will find all you need to know.
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Isn't Westlake a Chinese brand? I don't have any experience using them. Maybe you can check and ask on the Tyre Prices thread.
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If it's actually broken from somewhere, you should probably change it. The spark finds the path with the least resistance, so you might occasionally get a miss because the spark doesn't reach the plug. Worse case your car might stall and refuse to start - although unlikely because the part is tightly fit inside the spark plug chamber.
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From your description, it sounds like either your ignition coil is the two part variant which has it's rubber boot stuck inside the spark plug chamber, or the single unit of which the rubber part has snapped off. You need to find out which it is. If it's the former, you can still continue to use the coil. If not, you should change it. At Unit#d Mot#rs, they would have taken off the engine cover to replace the spark plug oil seals and the engine cover oil seal. I wonder why they didn't take the stuck part out then and reassemble it back onto the coil or recommend changing the coil. Found this video to help you understand (video starts at 1:14 which is deliberate): Note that he removes the ignition coil that powers the cylinders towards the left of the car and you can see that as he pulls the ignition coil, the rubber boot separates and is still stuck inside the spark plug chamber. He then pulls it out separately. But when he pulls the second ignition coil, it comes off with the rubber boot. Any good garage will be able to fix this for you. Honestly, even you can do this yourself now that you have this video. All you need is a 10 mm spanner to take off the two screws holding each coil in place.
