Davy

Whoa, thanks for all the wishes guys! Thanks iRage and thank you for your concern. I sure will be safe. You're correct, I believe the Galant Fortis RalliArt and this are identical machines. Thanks bro, you were the first one to know in Sri Lanka. Even before my parents! Thanks Magnum. Yeah, I should. Photography is not my talent, but I'll try my best. This was just as soon as I got the car and I saw an empty car park and entered just to snap some photos to send to my parents. Thanks Sierra Charlie! The 2013 and newer RalliArt Lancers actually have the same rims but in gunmetal grey. Looks pretty nice. Was actually thinking of doing the same. Thank you! Well it feels awesome. The power together with the Twin Clutch SST gearbox is what makes the ride pretty special. Thanks Crosswind. I just never stopped wanting one among the vast variety of vehicles here. I actually found that very post a few days back and realized it was just two years ago.

Hello Gents, After months of research and patience, I have finally found "The One". A car I have been waiting to own for as long as I can remember... a 10th Generation Lancer. What I managed to get is a Lancer RalliArt. Since this particular model isn't available in Sri Lanka (to my knowledge), let me give a brief introduction to the car. Mitsubishi introduced the 10th generation Lancer (Referred to as the Lancer EX in Sri Lanka) in 2008 and it was certainly a different Lancer when compared to previous models. From the hooded brow over the headlights that give it an aggressive look, to the matching rear end, it was a brand new look for the Lancer. Back in 2008 when Mitsubishi launched the 10th gen Lancer, they only really had two variants: The Lancer EX (GLX, GLS, GT) and then the mighty track monster Evolution X. While the Lancer EX comes with engines ranging from 1.5L (4A91) through 2.0L (4J10 and 4B10) to 2.4L (4B12), the power of all these engines were in the range of 109 - 170 horsepower while the Evolution X has a 2.0L Turbo (4B11T) engine that outputs 276 horsepower (The FQ400 in the UK has a massive 403 hp!). That's a pretty big gap right there and Mitsubishi introduced the Lancer RalliArt in 2009 to bridge the gap. The RalliArt also has a 4B11T 2.0L turbocharged engine - the same engine that comes in the Evo X, de-tuned. It outputs 237hp - that's 54 less than the Evo. It's basically ideal for day-to-day use as well as a drive along a twisty road or a track if you are keen. To put it into perspective, if the Evolution is compatible with the Subaru WRX STi, then the RalliArt is head to head with the WRX. Throughout this thread I will try my best to log detailed information about the RalliArt (strengths, weaknesses, comparisons etc.) and also share information about the journey with my car. Hope this will be helpful to someone some day. Before going into any more detail, here she is...

If it didn't fit, the replacement part was probably not right. Replacing shocks shouldn't be this complicated on a Civic.

I thought of this Rumesh, but OP says that the "smooth" patches on Kandy Road significantly reduces the noise. If hub bearings were the case, then road surface shouldn't impact the noise. In fact, if the road surface is smooth and hub bearings are bad, then the noise could be heard as a very distinctive roar. Just my opinion.

GT Champiro is known to be really noisy, especially as they age. Used a set on my car once and I was waiting until they wore out. Keep in mind that it could also be due to something as simple as a misplaced door beading or a missing plastic cover inside the wheel well causing road noise to be heard inside the car. If everything is intact, then check if your tyres are properly inflated. Simple checks that can be done before replacing your tyres.

Wow you guys! Very nice photos!

I have used this stuff myself on many occasions. Worked pretty well, but if OP wants to paint over the seam, then this will not be of use.

Your power steering is not electronic and is a basic hydraulic system to my knowledge. I have not heard of a 10th gen Lancer variant that comes with EPS. So even a mechanic with the basic competence should be able to carry out a steering overhaul without any problem. Obviously, re-machining (if not done properly) will result in various side effects. What you should have done is replace the rack ends, tie rod ends and bushes (at least with a good set of aftermarket replacements if you cannot afford genuine parts). Having said that, it is also possible that the machining job was done properly, but your mechanic over-tightened the linkages (especially the tie rod end bolt). If the power steering belt was removed during the repair for some reason, make sure that the belt has the proper tension. A slipping belt will cause the power steering pump to pump insufficient oil to provide you with power assistance. Hence the tightness in the wheel. You need a "good" mechanic, not a EPS mechanic.

Wait.. the Lancer EX has EPS? I was pretty sure it has a hydraulic system. What exactly is the issue?

Not sure about the availability in Sri Lanka. Off the top of my head, 3M does seam sealer and should be good. Try eBay?

Watched San Andreas and it was good. For some reason it felt like a copy of 2012 (which was a good movie as well). Basically a nasty natural disaster that cripples San Francisco - the story is about a family that goes through the chaos (sounds so much like 2012 now doesn't it?). Alexandra Daddario is just stunning in this one.

To be honest, I recommend using a sponge dipped lightly in clean water and then wiping off with a soft cloth. I also don't let service centre guys use any chemical on the dashboard or upholstery. They do more harm than good IMO.For leather surfaces, periodical conditioning is required to keep them from cracking and losing texture. As for the stains left on the dash, did you try cleaning with water as suggested above?

Agree with Rumesh. You shouldn't require any special tool to remove the plugs (unless secured by nut). When high tension leads become older, they sometimes get swollen and get stuck in the plug slot. Applying a bit of extra force will cause them to come off.

Maybe the fresh air vent is stuck open and is leaking air from outside into the cabin?

Oh OK. So are you saying that the number is not on the exhaust manifold side of the engine? I'm pretty sure the 4G18 had the number there.

I can vaguely see the engine number in the image you have shared (left to the engine oil dipstick and right above the exhaust manifold heat shield bolt on the left). Edit: Removed image

The exhaust manifold is on the front right? So front. Your car probably has a manifold cover, so you might have to really get in there to see the number.

Should be on the exhaust manifold side of the engine block if I remember correctly.

How are you sure that the problem is with the ECU? An erratic RPM could be due to other reasons such as a failing Idle Air Control valve. Edit: Didn't see that your question was answered in the duplicate thread. Hope mods will merge threads.

Goosebumps...

1. Search online for the 2008 Yaris fuse box diagram and check if you can locate the fuse easily 2. If step 1 fails, pull out each fuse and check if one of them is burnt. I get the feeling that this is intermittent according to your description. If so, it might be a loose connection and not a blown fuse.

Looks like the drive shaft (axle), and it seems to be missing a rubber boot. Fallen off due to broken bands maybe? If I'm correct, you will have to take the drive shaft out to replace the boot. While you're at it, make sure you check if that joint has sufficient grease because it looks like some amount of CV joint grease has leaked and splashed on the gearbox and surrounding area.