Davy

Welcome to the forum! Noticed that you bumped up a few old threads just to make comments about them. Please be mindful of when the thread was last active before responding (date on the most recent post). For instance, this thread has been inactive for nearly 2 years. However, you may use existing threads to discuss new matters. Appreciate you searching and reading up existing content though. Thanks and hope you find the forum useful.

There were several types of ignition coils that came on the CS. Some were a single unit on which the rubber boot was permanently affixed to the coil whereas some had detachable rubber boots. Mine had permanently fixed boots so replacing the ignition coil was the only option. I wouldn't recommend repairing the ignition coil as it can lead to arching and then ignition misses etc. However, if your coil is the type where the boot can be separated, you can buy a couple separately for about 3000 rupees. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-PCS-Repair-Kit-Rubber-Boots-Ignition-Coil-Mitsubishi-Lancer-4G18-/131955290912 Also, since two plugs share 1 coil, 2 out of the 4 plugs have ignition leads. If they're also swollen, you can buy them separately for cheap. Check link below: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mitsubishi-Eclipse-Galant-Lancer-Mirage-Outlander-Spark-Plug-Wire-Set-NGK-ME96-/320919605019?fits=Make%3AMitsubishi|Model%3ALancer&hash=item4ab84c8f1b:g:FUsAAOSwf-VWaI~r&vxp=mtr Something that needs to be mentioned is that the coils don't need to be replaced just because the rubber is swollen ("idimila" as they say). Although the rubber boot doesn't go all the way in, there is no impact on the operation of the engine. Also, this swelling happens not because the rubber came into contact with oil, but because of the age and prolonged exposure to engine heat. I had the same issue and what I did was apply a small amount of rubber grease on the collar of the boot and use force to push it in. Never had an issue.

So the oil seals alone cost 18.5K? That's insane! I remember @trinity replacing all spark plug oil seals in 2014 or so for a couple or hundred rupees. 20K seems about the right price at the agents, but you can buy brand new ones from eBay for about 8000 LKR (both). There are used ones for sale for cheap too, but for components like ignition coils, new is always better IMO. UM was advising me to replace the coils ever since the car hit 90,000km, but I never ran to issues with it. I believe it was replaced by our resident member @s.madura (who is the current owner of the car) recently. And this is after about 50,000 more KMs. Maybe he can share more info. Having said that, the workshop manual says replace them at 100,000k Km if I remember correctly.

Stumbled upon an image with the part you're looking for while I was browsing through an Australian Lancer forum. Here's the part number. You should be able to locate this on eBay or Amayama or any other parts site. For example: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OE-MR951187-Rear-View-Power-Mirror-Switch-Folding-fit-Mitsubishi-2004-Endeavor-/112030087639?hash=item1a158379d7:g:sikAAOSw-4BXYIfz A bit pricey though.

After over a year and 15,000 KM later, I thought of giving an update. I've added a couple of videos to my last post (the Gravel road drive) as well. If you've been following this thread, you may remember the rattling clutch which was solved after a transmission oil change. As I suspected, it resurfaced again and despite everyone telling me it's normal, I got it checked out. It was found that the clutches were on their way out and were replaced under warranty. I was told that the clutches cost about 300,000 LKR brand new. I think I got pretty lucky. After the repair, the change was pretty obvious. The shifting is now flawless and the car responds perfectly. The car has mostly been a weekender. Mainly because I use public transport to get to work and back. But I did many trips ranging from about 150 km to a trip of 759 km (round) which is the one worth mentioning about. Got to drive on snow, and when all other sedans were crawling slowly up the mountain with snow chains on, the RalliArt had no trouble going up without snow chains, thanks to the AWD and the AWC which I switched to "snow" as soon as the road became icy. Out of the 380 km one way trip, about 90km was snow and ice. Here's a video: The door sills were slightly scratched, so I touched them up and ordered a set of genuine scuff plates. Installed them myself and here's what it looks like now. I also blacked out the front grill with plasti-dip. Was not a fan of the chrome surround. Now it looks a bit more like the Evo from the front! I like how it came out. Thought of going for a set of Evo X Enkei wheels. They're hard to find and pretty expensive. I found one set and went to inspect it a couple of weeks back, but the rims were not in good shape. One was bent and I was not willing to get them repaired at about 15,000 LKR a wheel. After a bit more research, I found out that the Evo X wheels have clearance issues on the Lancer and RalliArt. The Evo has wider fenders and the wide wheels (Stock RalliArt wheels are 7.0 inch wide with +46 offset whereas Evo wheels are 8.5 inch wide with +38 offset) so there will be rubbing of the rear wheels. The fenders need to be rolled up to prevent this, and I'm in two worlds about doing this because I was thinking of going for BC Racing coilovers to lower the car a bit. The gap between the front wheel and wheel arch is a bit too much for my liking (as seen in one of the photos above).

Strange. None except only one of the cars I've owned/used upto now has had a rear wiper and I've not had an issue. The defroster clears up the rear windscreen in just a couple of minutes. However, I guess I can see this being a problem in vehicles where the rear windscreen is a bit further away from the driver (station wagons, some hatchbacks, vans etc.), and if it's raining cats and dogs outside!

There are two errors in there. The first one C0273 is the one related to your ABS system. The error is a continuity issue, so you shouldn't blindly replace the ABS module and expect the issue to go away without checking the simple things first. - The first thing you should check is the ABS relay in the engine bay fuse box. - Check all wheel speed sensors and continuity from wheel speed sensors to ABS actuator. If you're unable to identify the issue, I suggest taking the car to Toyota Lanka so that they can do a much thorough diagnosis. The second error is also a continuity issue in the CAN BUS. This may or may not be related to the ABS error, but your wire harnesses definitely have a lose connection. Time to do a thorough clean-up of all the connectors. Do you observe any lack of power or high fuel consumption?

@effdog, your quote seems to be messed up, so quoting an old post to respond. Did any of the 5 mechanics test the ABS relay first? The ABS relay is located in the fuse box under the bonnet. To me it looks like replacing the ABS module without checking anything else isn't a good idea.

Out of curiosity, how was it determined that the ABS module was faulty? Local mechanics love to replace stuff like this when the actual problem is elsewhere like wheel speed sensors.

Crosswind is right, the black one is a pre-facelift CS Lancer whereas your one is the newer facelift (post 2004) model. Also, you will not be able to simply swap the current trunk lid with the older one, because they're different and won't fit. The pre-facelift trunk lid has a straight bottom edge. Yours has a curve. This means the bumper also will have to be modified/changed and I don't think it's worth it. I think you just need a rear bumper skirt to match the rest of the car. Also your rear number plate is a square one which ruins the look of the car IMO (It's running out of the number plate space). The rectangular one looks much better. Edit: Added photo

Looking good! The side skirts appear to be custom made ones? By the way, you need wheels!

Welcome to the forum! A properly maintained petrol engine can easily run over three times as much as that. 125,000 km is nothing if that is the genuine mileage of the car. If that's the only thing holding you back and if the rest of the car checks out, go for it. Also, search the forum to find more information about the car. It has been discussed in detail.

Sounds like a sticking caliper. Could be due to a badly lubricated caliper slide pin or because the piston itself it stuck. Should be pretty easy to check if this is the issue. Get your brake pads inspected as others have mentioned.

Maybe Wurth has it? Also, I recently saw that LIQUI MOLY agents have set up shop in Sri Lanka. They might actually be having MAF sensor cleaner.

Have you tried eBay, Amayama or Partsouq? The switch should be a common part that comes on other Mitsubishis (Galant, Pajero etc.) In fact, the switch on the Lancer EX is also the same one on the CS externally. Finding one that has the retract button will be a bit of a challenge though, cause I think that only came in the Touring version of the CS.

Issues like this are difficult to diagnose without seeing the car in person and listening to the noise. First of all, are you sure it's not something to do with a plastic panel catching wind and vibrating at high speed or something? Do you feel a vibration through the steering when this happens? If yes, get the brakes (rotors especially) checked out. They maybe warped. And can the noise be heard when the car is stationery and when revved up hard? If yes, it might be something as simple as your cooling fans having bad bearings to water pump bearings.

I've seen a similar issue in Hondas and it was due to a fault in the VVT cam sprocket.

I thought @dilrukds's P11 looks exactly like this, but I just remembered that his rims are painted black.

Where is the noise coming from? Front or rear?

1. When was the last carburetor clean-up/tune done? When were your spark plugs and distributor checked out? How's the condition of your air filter? I believe the KE72 has a vacuum operated idle control mechanism. If this mechanism is faulty, you may experience the symptoms described. The vacuum lines need to be checked out first and then the idle control mechanism. 2. Could be worn out bearings. When the roar comes up, and when it's safe (clear road), put the car in neutral and listen for changes in the roar. If the noise is still heard, it's probably due to worn out wheel bearings or differential bearings. This check is best done with the car on a hoist. 300,000 KM is nothing for a petrol engine if used and cared for properly. So without assuming the worst, get the little things checked out first.

Nice ride. Congratulations! Very familiar car. 301-4XXX number?

It's difficult to tell what the issue is without listening to the actual sound, but what you are hearing is probably pre-ignition or spark knock. Was your MAF sensor cleaned during the tune-up? Better get it cleaned as an initial step of the diagnosis. Also, hope the mechanic who installed the spark plugs correctly adjusted the clearances before putting the new ones in. Excess clearance between the electrodes can result in knocking. It also might be an issue with the V-Tec system failing to calibrate timing, but you should first look into the above items before coming into wrong conclusions.

When I had mine, the pulley was so loud and too far gone to repair. Actually I got it repaired once bit it resurfaced again. Ended up replacing the compressor with a recon one I got for 9000 from Mahinda.

Actually, you can. That's one of the main reasons to avoid over-inflating the tyres. Maintain suspension longevity. The tyre pressure doesn't need to be altered based on the payload you are carrying, assuming the payload is within specs and your tyres are inflated at the given pressure.