My Mitsubishi Galant

[Sierra Charlie]

Thanks for sharing the info man,

Also glad that you were able to find the spoiler as well.

About the bearing. I have an extra one similar to what you wanted for your car. I bought a one mistakenly thinking that it is the rear bearing which had gone kaput mainly cuz front ones were replaced about 25k kms ago. But to my suprise it was the front ones again which was giving the issue. considering the mileage of the car at that time (110k kms) i kept the rear bearing with me without returning it back. now @ 133k kms the rear ones are still ok. (should not jinx this though)

It was not that difficult for me to find those bearings. But when buying the front ones for the second time, the seller told me that the expected life span of those would not exceed 30k kms. i had no other option but buying them at that time due to financial reasons.

While original bearing will give you 90k to 140k kms life span, the others lastst around 40k kms at the most.

Hey Trinity, glad to be of service. Do you have the complete assembly? Despite replacing the bearing, Think I'll feel a bit more safer if I can just replace the complete wheel hub assembly.

[trinity]

Hey Trinity, glad to be of service. Do you have the complete assembly? Despite replacing the bearing, Think I'll feel a bit more safer if I can just replace the complete wheel hub assembly.

Yes i do. but im afraid its does not suit your car machang.

this is the part.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wheel-Bearing-4-Lug-Hub-Assembly-Rear-for-02-07-Mitsubishi-Lancer-ES-ABS-NEW-/310844940770#ht_1714wt_1188

[Sierra Charlie]

Yes i do. but im afraid its does not suit your car machang.

this is the part.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wheel-Bearing-4-Lug-Hub-Assembly-Rear-for-02-07-Mitsubishi-Lancer-ES-ABS-NEW-/310844940770#ht_1714wt_1188

Yep. Totally different part.

[Sierra Charlie]

Went to Gampola over the weekend on the A7, probably one of the best hill driving experiences here in SL. Once you settle to a cruise, it's just a matter of enjoying the drive and the scenery unless of course you have a nagging issue like I did.

So Gents, here's the case. whenever I drive on the 2nd or 3rd gears around 1300-1900 RPM, there's quite a noticeable jerk. Happens when decelerating, which is often on a road like the A7. I already have issues with the TPS and the IAC valve (Both of which I'm looking to replace) but I never noticed such a pronounced jerk before.

What should be my course of action? I'm thinking of replacing the fuel filter thinking that it might be the case. I know I should take the car to a mechanic but my regular mech is getting ready to leave the country early next month. So I can't go to him.

Any pointers are gladly appreciated. Also on a related note, think it's that time of the year when cars of all type decide to jerk on their own.

[The Don]

Refresh my memory Sierra, but is your car Automatic transmission or manual transmission?

[Sierra Charlie]

Refresh my memory Sierra, but is your car Automatic transmission or manual transmission?

It is a manual Don.

[The Don]

I'm trying to understand what this "jerk" is to be honest, particularly in a manual transmission car. When this happens is your foot off the accelorator?

Describe this jerk in a little bit more detail? Does it feel like the car is about to stall?

Also are the engine mounts in good condition? And have you ever had your clutch, flywheel and pressure plate inspected recently?

[Sierra Charlie]

I'm trying to understand what this "jerk" is to be honest, particularly in a manual transmission car. When this happens is your foot off the accelorator?

Describe this jerk in a little bit more detail? Does it feel like the car is about to stall?

Also are the engine mounts in good condition? And have you ever had your clutch, flywheel and pressure plate inspected recently?

Sure. Happens when my foot is on and off the accelerator as long as the revs are low. Noticed it mostly when the RPM is around 1300-1900. I let it coast a few times to see if it would stall. Nope. Didn't stall. But the jerking continued.

I replaced 2 engine mounts after I bought the car. It's less than 4 months since I replaced them.

I haven't had the clutch/flywheel/pressure plate looked over.

[The Don]

Sure. Happens when my foot is on and off the accelerator as long as the revs are low. Noticed it mostly when the RPM is around 1300-1900. I let it coast a few times to see if it would stall. Nope. Didn't stall. But the jerking continued.

I replaced 2 engine mounts after I bought the car. It's less than 4 months since I replaced them.

I haven't had the clutch/flywheel/pressure plate looked over.

Sounds like your engine is trying to stall, but the anti stall is kicking in to rev the engine up.

The issue is probably either with your idle controller, throttle position sensor or the MAF if that is the case. But you usually experience these problems very close to idle speed. So I'm not really sure at all if this is the problem. Did you say you recently replaced your ICV?

[Sierra Charlie]

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="The Don" data-cid="266880" data-time="1411995249"><p>

<br />

Sounds like your engine is trying to stall, but the anti stall is kicking in to rev the engine up.<br />

<br />

The issue is probably either with your idle controller, throttle position sensor or the MAF if that is the case. But you usually experience these problems very close to idle speed. So I'm not really sure at all if this is the problem. Did you say you recently replaced your ICV?</p></blockquote>

Hey Don, have to replace both the TPS and IACV. It's been quite a struggle sourcing the parts. I should get the TPS shortly. Ordered one from eBay since I couldn't find it locally despite quite an extensive search.

I tried replicating the issue while driving in Colombo on straight roads. Couldn't do it. The G chugs along fine at no throttle on 2nd and 3rd gears. No hiccups.

Could it be a combination of hilly roads and the load from the power steering while on A7 that triggered it?

BTW, if anyone is wondering what a sane man is doing at 3.30 in the morning, you might have never heard a couple of rats frolicking on a ceiling. Better buy a cat.

[The Don]

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="The Don" data-cid="266880" data-time="1411995249"><p>

<br />

Sounds like your engine is trying to stall, but the anti stall is kicking in to rev the engine up.<br />

<br />

The issue is probably either with your idle controller, throttle position sensor or the MAF if that is the case. But you usually experience these problems very close to idle speed. So I'm not really sure at all if this is the problem. Did you say you recently replaced your ICV?</p></blockquote>

Hey Don, have to replace both the TPS and IACV. It's been quite a struggle sourcing the parts. I should get the TPS shortly. Ordered one from eBay since I couldn't find it locally despite quite an extensive search.

I tried replicating the issue while driving in Colombo on straight roads. Couldn't do it. The G chugs along fine at no throttle on 2nd and 3rd gears. No hiccups.

Could it be a combination of hilly roads and the load from the power steering while on A7 that triggered it?

BTW, if anyone is wondering what a sane man is doing at 3.30 in the morning, you might have never heard a couple of rats frolicking on a ceiling. Better buy a cat.

Well unlikely, but do keep an eye on the temperature, the next time it happens. Usually jerks are also an early symptom of overheating which is more likely when you are revving the engine harder. Does your jerks come with the taka taka sound usually associated with being on the wrong gear?

[Sierra Charlie]

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="The Don" data-cid="266952" data-time="1412080280"><p>

<br />

Well unlikely, but do keep an eye on the temperature, the next time it happens. Usually jerks are also an early symptom of overheating which is more likely when you are revving the engine harder. Does your jerks come with the taka taka sound usually associated with being on the wrong gear?</p></blockquote>

Temp is normal, thankfully. I was on 2nd and 3rd almost all the while this happened. So I kinda doubt it was something to do with the wrong gear and nope, no taka taka sound.

I had my car serviced right before this drive. New oil/new oil filter. Forgot to mention that. Could that have had anything to do with this jerk?

[The Don]

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="The Don" data-cid="266952" data-time="1412080280"><p>

<br />

Well unlikely, but do keep an eye on the temperature, the next time it happens. Usually jerks are also an early symptom of overheating which is more likely when you are revving the engine harder. Does your jerks come with the taka taka sound usually associated with being on the wrong gear?</p></blockquote>

Temp is normal, thankfully. I was on 2nd and 3rd almost all the while this happened. So I kinda doubt it was something to do with the wrong gear and nope, no taka taka sound.

I had my car serviced right before this drive. New oil/new oil filter. Forgot to mention that. Could that have had anything to do with this jerk?

No but sounds like the issue is gone now. I don't think you got your engine washed did you?

Oil filters usually don't cause this issue. But sometimes due to pressure washing water gets inside certain contacts and you get a bit of a miss for a short period, but this disappears when the engine warms up and you run a while.

Do the simple things first. I think you got your spark plugs replaced recently didn't you?

Take all plug wires out one at a time, inspect them at both ends (spark plug, and distributor end) and then put them back. Check for white dust and corrotion. Then inspect the wires for damage, and make sure all connectors are fully in place and locked in.

Then look at the air filter and make sure its clean.

Are you confident with a screw driver and taking parts off an engine (like TPS, and ICV)?

Edited September 30, 2014 by The Don

[Sierra Charlie]

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="The Don" data-cid="266959" data-time="1412091890"><p>

<br />

No but sounds like the issue is gone now. I don't think you got your engine washed did you?<br />

<br />

Oil filters usually don't cause this issue. But sometimes due to pressure washing water gets inside certain contacts and you get a bit of a miss for a short period, but this disappears when the engine warms up and you run a while.<br />

<br />

Do the simple things first. I think you got your spark plugs replaced recently didn't you?<br />

<br />

Take all plug wires out one at a time, inspect them at both ends (spark plug, and distributor end) and then put them back. Check for white dust and corrotion. Then inspect the wires for damage, and make sure all connectors are fully in place and locked in.<br />

<br />

Then look at the air filter and make sure its clean.<br />

<br />

Are you confident with a screw driver and taking parts off an engine (like TPS, and ICV)?</p></blockquote>

Hey Don, I'm OK with tools and in fact carry a somewhat extensive tool box in the G. I'll complete the inspection items tomorrow morning.

I'd rather not take out the TPS though. It's set to a point not to cause idling issues. I once had an episode of high idling RPM.

Air filter is clean and the plugs were declared OK by the famed Mr. Fernando. But I'd eye ball them plug wires.

Thanks for the tips Don. Will keep you posted on the progress.

[The Don]

Yeah, the electronics might have gone funny thanks to the identified faults, causing and intermittent problem.

Do you have part numbers of the parts you got/found? The Gallant is sold in the UK but a lot of them came with GDi. But sometimes stuff goes for cheap. I once bought a Lancer throttle body complete with sensors for £15

[Sierra Charlie]

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="The Don" data-cid="266964" data-time="1412096683"><p>

Yeah, the electronics might have gone funny thanks to the identified faults, causing and intermittent problem.<br />

<br />

Do you have part numbers of the parts you got/found? The Gallant is sold in the UK but a lot of them came with GDi. But sometimes stuff goes for cheap. I once bought a Lancer throttle body complete with sensors for £15</p></blockquote>

I do indeed. Will send you a PM.

[Sierra Charlie]

Guys, began to experience some issues with the G again. When starting, the engine would die unless I tap the throttle which is something I usually don't do. Also on cold starts, the engine didn't idle higher until it reaches operating temperature. RPM rises when the A/C is switched on, falls back down when A/C is switched off.

I already had an issue with the TPS and a coil pack replacement was due. I got down both these a while back. So I went ahead and replaced the TPS and the two coil packs today, followed by an engine tuneup from Mr. Dhammika Fernando. The car is idling better than before after the TPS change, the coil pack replacement and the engine tuneup.

But now there is a bigger problem. The car doesn't respond to throttle well. Here are my observations.

1. Revs don't match with the pedal input.
2. When pedal is pushed, the revs won't match but the car/engine shakes quite noticeably.
3. After mashing the pedal a few times, the revs begin to rise normally. This happens from around 1700 RPM.
4. After about 2500 RPM, the issue seems to go away. But I couldn't replicate it to be sure. Was driving on traffic.

Mr. Fernando observed that the coil packs I got down are in better condition that what I had in the car. The TPS looked OEM and the electrical output was within expected levels. There are no CELs and Mr. Fernando also confirmed that the output from the ECU gotten from the TPS as well as the IACV are within expected ranges. ( I had an issue with the IACV as well.)

He suggested that I do a injector cleaning. I do see the logic in it. Do you think it's possible to see such a drastic change in performance effected by injectors in a span of couple of days and component changes?

Your input is greatly appreciated. I'm no longer confident of driving the car in traffic conditions due to this weird behaviour.

[The Don]

Is your throttle fly by wire or a cable operated version?

Was the ECU reset after the sensors were replaced?

What happens if you just hold the throttle down?

Did my Fernando check if the coil packs are getting their signals properly in the correct order? Did he try replacing with the old coil packs?

Are the old and new coil packs identical?

[Sierra Charlie]

Is your throttle fly by wire or a cable operated version?

Was the ECU reset after the sensors were replaced?

What happens if you just hold the throttle down?

Did my Fernando check if the coil packs are getting their signals properly in the correct order? Did he try replacing with the old coil packs?

Are the old and new coil packs identical?

Hey Don, sorry about taking this long to answer. To answer your questions;

1. Throttle is a cable operated version.

2. I reset the ECU in the morning and drove back and forth in about a 10 metre strip. It was running fine on first gear. Have to go out and drive it on the road in a while.

3. As for what happens when I hold the throttle down, it's acting pretty normal. Check the video below if you can. (This was before I cleared the ECU and none of the symptoms while driving was evident. )

4. He didn't drive the car after the tuneup. So he didn't get to see any of the drama that followed.

5. As far as I could see, coil packs were identical. The physical size, how they sit when put in place, how the screws fit are all identical.

[The Don]

Well due to the issues with your sensor, your ECU maps would have been fairly messed up, and it might have found the new correct readings confusing. This problem would have gone away slowly as the ECU auto adjusts or a reset would have immediately resolved the issue.

You kind of need to do that every time you replace sensors for this reason.

[Sierra Charlie]

Well, the gremlin returned. Was on my way to get the injectors cleaned and encountered a slight hill of about a 15 degree elevation where the engine failed quite spectacularly. There was a huge engine miss, the revs won't rise no matter how hard I pushed the peddle and it bogged down a few times.

The issue was gone once I got the injectors cleaned. But the mech said that my fuel pump might be on the way out.

[The Don]

Well, the gremlin returned. Was on my way to get the injectors cleaned and encountered a slight hill of about a 15 degree elevation where the engine failed quite spectacularly. There was a huge engine miss, the revs won't rise no matter how hard I pushed the peddle and it bogged down a few times.

The issue was gone once I got the injectors cleaned. But the mech said that my fuel pump might be on the way out.

I think the fuel pump is relatively cheap compared to some of these other components...... Might be bad fuel as well....

[Sierra Charlie]

I replaced the new coil pack with the old one since I wanted to isolate whether the issue is with TPS, Injection or the coil packs.

Before the TPS change/Injection cleaning, the throttle was quite 'trigger happy'. It was quite difficult to maintain throttle at a constant rate since the response was quite instantaneous. Even minute changes when shifting the leg was transferred to the throttle. But now, I can feel sort of two zones. At light depression, throttle response is constant. Quite easy when driving on traffic.

At a slightly weightier foot, throttle response is much more prominent. (I know this is how the throttle is supposed to work. but hear me out. )

Earlier, throttle was almost on and off. The response was quite rapid. There was no gradual increment or decrement of throttle response and as a result, the ride was quite jerky. On the flip side, it's now taking a bit longer to accelerate.

I'm going to monitor the situation for at least a couple of weeks before I put the new coil packs in.

[Sierra Charlie]

Ok gents and the occasional lady, I have an issue with the G that I need sorted and seek your advice.

My cooling system has a problem. A hose developed a tear and the radiator tank developed a hairline crack on two different occasions. Hose was a simple. Just cut 2cm off the hose and stick it back again. Done.

Radiator tank was a different issue. Had to spend about 8k on the replacement.

Anyhow, the hose has developed a tear again. Both times at the same location, on the lower hose at the engine side. Please see red square on the picture .

I'm thinking whether the three incidents are related. Like, whether the cooling system is creating more pressure than the components can handle so the pressure is released from the most vulnerable place?

Fixing the hose is again, quite simple. But I would like to see whether I'm looking at something a bit more serious that need addressing.

[Rumesh88]

I'm thinking whether the three incidents are related. Like, whether the cooling system is creating more pressure than the components can handle so the pressure is released from the most vulnerable place?

Fixing the hose is again, quite simple. But I would like to see whether I'm looking at something a bit more serious that need addressing.

Pressure inside the system is finally determined by the cap specs and the temperature. If the temperature indication is stable in the mid area you can assume the pressure to be normal. To me it looks like something to do with hose and/or the inlet. When you cut a piece from the hose to reinsert, it becomes that much less flexible and may not withstand the mechanical stress due to engine vibration. If the inlet is intact (no rough edges) then you may have to replace the hose instead of re-inserting.

Edited October 23, 2015 by Rumesh88