Problem In The Break System

[lathsara]

I’m using Mitsubishi L200 4WD Double Cab. I have a problem in my Break system. Problem is in the front wheels disk breaks. Some times my vehicles front wheels get heated much more than normal. And at that time my break peddles also very tight. And if I drive ignoring it again it get loosen and front wheels comes to normal temperature. I checked it with my mechanic and first time he changed the break washers in the break pump. Again same thing happened and he said it is a problem in the caliper set and change both caliper sets. Still Im having the same problem some time break peddle is loose as normal and some time it is very tight. Do you have any suggestions for that?

I really don’t know what to.

Thank you

[The Don]

  lathsara said:

I’m using Mitsubishi L200 4WD Double Cab. I have a problem in my Break system. Problem is in the front wheels disk breaks. Some times my vehicles front wheels get heated much more than normal. And at that time my break peddles also very tight. And if I drive ignoring it again it get loosen and front wheels comes to normal temperature. I checked it with my mechanic and first time he changed the break washers in the break pump. Again same thing happened and he said it is a problem in the caliper set and change both caliper sets. Still Im having the same problem some time break peddle is loose as normal and some time it is very tight. Do you have any suggestions for that?

I really don’t know what to.

Thank you

Hi, I think your condition is commonly referred to as break binding where the breaks do not retract as soon as you let go of the paddle and the temperature rise of the disks are obviously caused by the pads rubbing against the disk constantly.

I personally am a bit baffled by your problemm, the fact that even after changing break washers, and calipers etc, the problem is still there, usually sometimes just by changing break oil helps eleviate the problem, I think the first thing to do is to isolate the problem, and if you have replaced the calipers with new calipers, break washers with new break washers and thus eliminated a lot of probabilities,

Now all that remains is the main break servo and master cylinder system, and the rear breaks (but you say they aren't affected by this problem), maybe there is an issue with the break force distribution system, or even the vaccum based break booster system (which is essentially what makes the paddle so light when you break, but you say sometimes the paddle becomes tight)

Sorry to say its difficult to guess what the exact problem is without taking a look it, and plus I am not a trained mechanic, I do know a person who might be able to help you (as will a lot of other members), he is called Wasantha, and has a garrage on Baseline road just after the rail crossing after the prison (going from borella towards the kalaniya bridge), good with mechanical stuff like this, not so susre about electronic problems, tell him the dude with the black mirage sent you and I am sure he will sort you out. He is slightly expensive though, so its up to you he he, and I am sure other members can suggest their own choice of mech for this sort of a problem,

The Don

[Duncan]

(1) make sure you are using the correct brake fluid (DOT #)

(2) get your servo checked. Could be a faulty vaccum pipe.

[lathsara]

  The Don said:

Hi, I think your condition is commonly referred to as break binding where the breaks do not retract as soon as you let go of the paddle and the temperature rise of the disks are obviously caused by the pads rubbing against the disk constantly.

I personally am a bit baffled by your problemm, the fact that even after changing break washers, and calipers etc, the problem is still there, usually sometimes just by changing break oil helps eleviate the problem, I think the first thing to do is to isolate the problem, and if you have replaced the calipers with new calipers, break washers with new break washers and thus eliminated a lot of probabilities,

Now all that remains is the main break servo and master cylinder system, and the rear breaks (but you say they aren't affected by this problem), maybe there is an issue with the break force distribution system, or even the vaccum based break booster system (which is essentially what makes the paddle so light when you break, but you say sometimes the paddle becomes tight)

Sorry to say its difficult to guess what the exact problem is without taking a look it, and plus I am not a trained mechanic, I do know a person who might be able to help you (as will a lot of other members), he is called Wasantha, and has a garrage on Baseline road just after the rail crossing after the prison (going from borella towards the kalaniya bridge), good with mechanical stuff like this, not so susre about electronic problems, tell him the dude with the black mirage sent you and I am sure he will sort you out. He is slightly expensive though, so its up to you he he, and I am sure other members can suggest their own choice of mech for this sort of a problem,

Thank you very much for the suggestions.

  Duncan said:

(1) make sure you are using the correct brake fluid (DOT #)

(2) get your servo checked. Could be a faulty vaccum pipe.

Thanks for the help

[gunat]

Also, just have a closer look at your Disc Rotors- in some rare cases, the rotors can crack, leaving hairline undulations on the rotor...which logically creates more friction than normal.

good luck

Edited September 12, 2006 by gunat

[porkster]

  lathsara said:

I’m using Mitsubishi L200 4WD Double Cab. I have a problem in my Break system. Problem is in the front wheels disk breaks. Some times my vehicles front wheels get heated much more than normal. And at that time my break peddles also very tight. And if I drive ignoring it again it get loosen and front wheels comes to normal temperature. I checked it with my mechanic and first time he changed the break washers in the break pump. Again same thing happened and he said it is a problem in the caliper set and change both caliper sets. Still Im having the same problem some time break peddle is loose as normal and some time it is very tight. Do you have any suggestions for that?

I really don’t know what to.

Thank you

Hi,

I think your problem maybe in your brake bias being not set correctly and also you haven't bedded in your brakes and are experiencing green fade. Green fade is a type of fade that manifests itself on brand new brake pads. Brake pads are usually made of different types of heat resistant materials bound together with a phenolic resin binder. Green fade is dangerous because many people assume that new brakes are perfect and can be used hard right off the bat. Green fade typically will occur much earlier than normal fade so it can catch a driver that is used to a certain car’s characteristics unaware. Typically the onset of green fade is rather sudden, further increasing the danger factor.

Green fade can occur if you change the pads and drive on the street for a few hundred or even thousand miles, never braking hard, then suddenly start using the brakes hard. Green fade can be prevented by bedding the pads. This is a simple procedure to boil off the resins and break in the pads under controlled conditions.

The way to eliminate green fade is to properly bed or break in your pads before you have to use them hard. The trick is to get rid of the volatile elements of the binder resin without overheating or glazing the pad. If you have ever seen your brakes smoke? That smelly stuff is the volatile resins being cooked out of your pads. Bedded pads will not smoke very easily.

It is better to bed new pads on older rotors. Older rotors are seasoned and more dimensionally stable making them less likely to warp or crack while bedding. Older rotors for some reason are less likely to glaze new pads.

When replacing your pads, sand your rotors with an electric drill with a 220 grit sanding disc, putting a light cross hatch pattern on them. This helps break the glaze on the rotor and aides in bedding the new pads quickly. Install your new pads and go for your bedding run. Before making the first stop after changing pads pump the brake pedal before you really need to stop. The pistons are fully retracted into the caliper when you change the pads and the pedal will be real long at the first brake application.

When bedding the pads, be very careful as the brakes will not work to well until you are done. The way to bed brakes is as follows:

On the open road when there is little traffic drive at about 60-80 kmph and apply the brakes, dragging them while giving the car gas to maintain the speed. Drag brakes for about 10 seconds and release. Drive for about 1 minute to allow the brakes to cool, then drag the brakes again for about 20 seconds. The brakes may begin to smoke, stink and you might feel a bit of green fade at this point but that is normal. Drive for another minute to cool things off again and drag the brakes for 30 seconds. You should defiantly be smelling the brakes now and feeling some green fade. Be careful at this point as now you will not be able to stop too well if you had to. Drive about two minutes and repeat the process. You might have to repeat this up to three times. You can tell when the pads are bedded when you don’t feel the onset of green fade any more. Be careful not to overdo the bedding process or you could glaze your brand new pads or even warp or crack your rotors.

Hope this helps.

Cheers, Porky

[neXGen]

  porkster said:

Hi,

I think your problem maybe in your brake bias being not set correctly and also you haven't bedded in your brakes and are experiencing green fade. Green fade is a type of fade that manifests itself on brand new brake pads. Brake pads are usually made of different types of heat resistant materials bound together with a phenolic resin binder. Green fade is dangerous because many people assume that new brakes are perfect and can be used hard right off the bat. Green fade typically will occur much earlier than normal fade so it can catch a driver that is used to a certain car’s characteristics unaware. Typically the onset of green fade is rather sudden, further increasing the danger factor.

Green fade can occur if you change the pads and drive on the street for a few hundred or even thousand miles, never braking hard, then suddenly start using the brakes hard. Green fade can be prevented by bedding the pads. This is a simple procedure to boil off the resins and break in the pads under controlled conditions.

The way to eliminate green fade is to properly bed or break in your pads before you have to use them hard. The trick is to get rid of the volatile elements of the binder resin without overheating or glazing the pad. If you have ever seen your brakes smoke? That smelly stuff is the volatile resins being cooked out of your pads. Bedded pads will not smoke very easily.

It is better to bed new pads on older rotors. Older rotors are seasoned and more dimensionally stable making them less likely to warp or crack while bedding. Older rotors for some reason are less likely to glaze new pads.

When replacing your pads, sand your rotors with an electric drill with a 220 grit sanding disc, putting a light cross hatch pattern on them. This helps break the glaze on the rotor and aides in bedding the new pads quickly. Install your new pads and go for your bedding run. Before making the first stop after changing pads pump the brake pedal before you really need to stop. The pistons are fully retracted into the caliper when you change the pads and the pedal will be real long at the first brake application.

When bedding the pads, be very careful as the brakes will not work to well until you are done. The way to bed brakes is as follows:

On the open road when there is little traffic drive at about 60-80 kmph and apply the brakes, dragging them while giving the car gas to maintain the speed. Drag brakes for about 10 seconds and release. Drive for about 1 minute to allow the brakes to cool, then drag the brakes again for about 20 seconds. The brakes may begin to smoke, stink and you might feel a bit of green fade at this point but that is normal. Drive for another minute to cool things off again and drag the brakes for 30 seconds. You should defiantly be smelling the brakes now and feeling some green fade. Be careful at this point as now you will not be able to stop too well if you had to. Drive about two minutes and repeat the process. You might have to repeat this up to three times. You can tell when the pads are bedded when you don’t feel the onset of green fade any more. Be careful not to overdo the bedding process or you could glaze your brand new pads or even warp or crack your rotors.

Hope this helps.

Cheers, Porky

interesting.. what do you mean by sanding the rotors with an electric drill? in the sense you drill that particular pattern onto the rotor?

Zz

[porkster]

  neXGen said:

interesting.. what do you mean by sanding the rotors with an electric drill? in the sense you drill that particular pattern onto the rotor?

Zz

Hi,

Yes you get the orbital sander attachment and fix to your drill with the proper grit surface and sand the puppy down.

Cheers, Porky

[neXGen]

in the sense man.. itz similiar to those vented rotors out there rite? or did i get you wrong?? drilling the rotor would in no way reduce the brakin power? cuz wil be reducin effective surface area by drillin quite a bit no?

ya descripto about binding was informative.. i always thought that braking power was kinda better after the smell of bind goes away due to constant braking...

Zz