Lancer Cs1 Rpm Over 2.5 @ 70Kmph

[trinity]

HI

I have a mitsubishi lancer cs1.1300 engine (carb).manufacture year 2001,imported brand new. recently i noticed a rise in RPM meter than of the usual level. when the car is driven around 70kmph on 4th gear RPM rises almost up to 3.& the fuel consumption is bit higher than usual. As i can remember it stayed @ 2 even when i was driving over 80kmph in the same gear couple of months back. Did a carburetor clean up & changed the plugs also, but the result is still the same. The car has done only 69000kms & well maintained. Engine oil used is mobil. please let me know whether something wrong with the car????? I'm worried a lot,,, ithis car is family to me.........

Thank you soooooooo much,,,,,,,,,,,,

[harshansenadhir]

HI

I have a mitsubishi lancer cs1.1300 engine (carb).manufacture year 2001,imported brand new. recently i noticed a rise in RPM meter than of the usual level. when the car is driven around 70kmph on 4th gear RPM rises almost up to 3.& the fuel consumption is bit higher than usual. As i can remember it stayed @ 2 even when i was driving over 80kmph in the same gear couple of months back. Did a carburetor clean up & changed the plugs also, but the result is still the same. The car has done only 69000kms & well maintained. Engine oil used is mobil. please let me know whether something wrong with the car????? I'm worried a lot,,, ithis car is family to me.........

Thank you soooooooo much,,,,,,,,,,,,

I assume it's a manual since you specifically mentioned it's on 4th gear (correct me if I'm wrong) If it's a manual, only one way is there to develop a significant difference between the rpm and speed (what shows on speedometer) that is worn out/slipping clutch.

If it's an autobox there can be various reasons/issues varying from over used gearbox oil to worn out friction plates and not changing to O/D or appropriate gear,due to malfunctioning valve body.

[trinity]

I assume it's a manual since you specifically mentioned it's on 4th gear (correct me if I'm wrong) If it's a manual, only one way is there to develop a significant difference between the rpm and speed (what shows on speedometer) that is worn out/slipping clutch.

If it's an autobox there can be various reasons/issues varying from over used gearbox oil to worn out friction plates and not changing to O/D or appropriate gear,due to malfunctioning valve body.

First let me thank you for sparing your time on my matter... You are correct,, its a manual,, as you say,if the problem is with the clutch, what options do i have??? do i need to replace all or is it possible to adjust it?? (i've heard something like that)

[harshansenadhir]

First let me thank you for sparing your time on my matter... You are correct,, its a manual,, as you say,if the problem is with the clutch, what options do i have??? do i need to replace all or is it possible to adjust it?? (i've heard something like that)

first of all get the clutch checked, try releasing the clutch in 1st or 2nd gear with handbrake on and see whether engine stalls or keeps up. If it keeps up, chances are high that the clutch is worn out. Remember, this test might further weaken an already worn out/weak clutch, so do it or get it done from a mechanic when you're really ready for the repair. If the clutch is cable operated, you can adjust the tentioning knob usually found on the engine room side of the firewall where clutch cable entering into the cabin. If not final mounting place of the cable on the gearbox or where it connects to the clutch fork shaft. If it's hydraulic, you can adjust the shaft which pushes the clutch fork. If you're lucky, you can escape by adjusting or replacing just the clutch plate, if not entire clutch kit (pressure plate, clutch plate and release bearing) should go in.

Edited October 18, 2010 by harshansenadhir

[trinity]

first of all get the clutch checked, try releasing the clutch in 1st or 2nd gear with handbrake on and see whether engine stalls or keeps up. If it keeps up, chances are high that the clutch is worn out. Remember, this test might further weaken an already worn out/weak clutch, so do it or get it done from a mechanic when you're really ready for the repair. If the clutch is cable operated, you can adjust the tentioning knob usually found on the engine room side of the firewall where clutch cable entering into the cabin. If not final mounting place of the cable on the gearbox or where it connects to the clutch fork shaft. If it's hydraulic, you can adjust the shaft which pushes the clutch fork. If you're lucky, you can escape by adjusting or replacing just the clutch plate, if not entire clutch kit (pressure plate, clutch plate and release bearing) should go in.

Sorry for the late reply... Thanks a lot for the advice, really appreciate it. i will get the clutch checked this weekend & hopefully get everything fixed. Hope i wont have to spend a fortune over this as i had to do when i was changing the timing belt. anyway i believe going fro the genuine parts is much better than patching things up with fakes...

Thanks a lot brother,, now i'm relieved.