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Sharing Bad Experience


corollahv

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Spraymech is not THE best place either...

I had put my car for painting (front bumper and fender) when I spoke to the owner and asked him if he could match the original color, and finish. he's reply was "we always do a 100% match... guaranteed.. as we spray in a booth with oven bake etc"

The next day I happen to be around the place and went to inspect the job, and for my amusement, they were painting my car at the rear of the workshop under a canvas tent..!

The was NO oven baking bullshit either. the color was much different to the original and there were drip marks.

After complaining, they agreed to paint it again, but the second time was no better..! I gave on them and got it done a small garage owned by a friend, and he did a 99% color match.

Once bought a car from a guy who said it had only a minor rear end accident some time before which was fixed by spr...m....

Car looked very good on the outside with Baked paint finish. Some time later when I removed the rear garnish I found plenty of twisted metal. Removed the buffer and tail lights and found even more...... apparently they repair only the visible panels......... :action-smiley-060:

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Well there will always be mixed reviews about anyplace- I've done couple of jobs with them and not had an issue..

Nira74... your trusting 2nd had info machan- who knows what the circumstances was with the said vehicle when it was with the previous owner.... ?

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Even the Agents were also not good. My Uncle took his Mitsubishi double cab to the agent for a problem in the Radio. And they have returned it with scratches in dashboard. Even when my father took his Nissan car for the Agent he has seen a mechanic beating the front wheel break pads area (Can't remember the exact name) with a hammer to remove the CV joint.

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when my father took his Nissan car for the Agent he has seen a mechanic beating the front wheel break pads area (Can't remember the exact name) with a hammer to remove the CV joint.

Mate a stub/bang hammer is key tool when it comes to removing oxidized or wedged bearings, axels,CVs ,joints....

MINIACE

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Even the Agents were also not good. My Uncle took his Mitsubishi double cab to the agent for a problem in the Radio. And they have returned it with scratches in dashboard. Even when my father took his Nissan car for the Agent he has seen a mechanic beating the front wheel break pads area (Can't remember the exact name) with a hammer to remove the CV joint.

Yeps this is normal practice :)

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Mate a stub/bang hammer is key tool when it comes to removing oxidized or wedged bearings, axels,CVs ,joints....

MINIACE

yeah most of these joints (CV joint tips, razors etc) arent bolted.. just stuck together with the friction of a metal being forced into place.. :)

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Yeps this is normal practice :)

totally wrong

No this is not normal practices. use of hammer is totally wrong and incorrect way to remove CV Joints, Bearing, Tie Roads, and Boll Joints etc. to do this there is a tool called “Puller” if you use hammer instead of Puller you will have lot of problems.

Mechanics are using the hammer instead of Puller because of the puller tool is bit expensive than hammer. Anyway customers will have lot of problems because of these incorrect things.

Edited by Nilantha
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totally wrong

No this is not normal practices. use of hammer is totally wrong and incorrect way to remove CV Joints, Bearing, Tie Roads, and Boll Joints etc. to do this there is a tool called “Puller” if you use hammer instead of Puller you will have lot of problems.

Mechanics are using the hammer instead of Puller because of the puller tool is bit expensive than hammer. Anyway customers will have lot of problems because of these incorrect things.

Agree with Nilantha,

"Puller" is the tool.. also recommended at German Tech. but very few places actually use it.

Even at D*MO I've seen a guy hammering a merc to remove the rack ends.

The hammer is said to screw up the alignment. which in most cases result in the car pulling to a side. But I guess it is the HAMMER that'll live longer..

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totally wrong

No this is not normal practices. use of hammer is totally wrong and incorrect way to remove CV Joints, Bearing, Tie Roads, and Boll Joints etc. to do this there is a tool called “Puller” if you use hammer instead of Puller you will have lot of problems.

Mechanics are using the hammer instead of Puller because of the puller tool is bit expensive than hammer. Anyway customers will have lot of problems because of these incorrect things.

Nilantha & Bugatti none are totally wrong!

There is no way you can use a puller to remove a CV joint. Park /Crank /splined or non-Splined Pullers can only be used as pullers and where the hammer is innocuously required the stub or bang hammer is indispensably required.. Pullers cannot part a wedged tie rod or a ball joint. Its like trying to gobble Ice cream with a fork. Puller is no alternate for the hammer but at many times hammer substitute’s puller.

MINIACE

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Well there will always be mixed reviews about anyplace- I've done couple of jobs with them and not had an issue..

Nira74... your trusting 2nd had info machan- who knows what the circumstances was with the said vehicle when it was with the previous owner.... ?

I agree with Pila. like Pila said, ther will ALWAYS be mixed reviews. but I've also used them for awhile and am quite satisfied.

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