terrabytetango

Ripped the door open last weekend, door panel connector's power pin had fused and melted the assembly, required significant force to take apart. Driver's window is on a separate circuit, an old school metal wire fuse had melted, plus heat damaged PCB with a scorch mark on the reverse side where the fuse is. Soldered a 16awg wire to jump the connection, and the motor receives power, but does not turn, plus continuity is there as well. I suspect there's a short in the winding, going to replace the motor with one from the rear door, and then buy a replacement/rewind the motor later. Thanks for the help!

Another revision of an already shitty car.

My wife has one. Around Colombo, we're currently maintaining 15.3kmpl. It's a slow car, the reason why people report only 11-12 kmpl is because they try to overtake everyone on the road and expect it to keep up with other cars on the road while accelerating i.e. right foot on the floor most of the time. If you want any semblance of fuel economy, you have to drive slow, and you have to plan ahead because of the laggy CVT gearbox. Apart from that, it's a pretty good car, 3.5 or 4 star safety rating in Japan, and comfortable enough on most B type roads. If you're always in a hurry, this isn't the car for you.

The EP91 Starlet, especially the later models are solid performers, and are right around your budget for a very good example.

My dad had taken the shitbox out a few days and remarked the central locking wasn't working. When I checked, the entire door switch panel was dead, so I set about undoing the lower dash panel to get at the circuit breaker. Once reset, everything worked, except the driver's side window; there's no sound nor any indication that the motor is straining on anything, not even the slight dimming of the headlights. Have I missed in checking anything else, or should I straight away get to tearing off the door panel and inspecting the motor, switch and wiring? P.S. Shitbox = 1993 Toyota Starlet

My nearly two year old Axio has these exact same features. It's called Safety Sense C, and there's Safety Sense P which also watches out for pedestrians in addition to cars.

Greetings everyone, and a happy new year! It has now been over 14 months since I've acquired this car, and during the xmas weekend I achieved two milestones. The car achieved 600kms on one tank of fuel, with at least another 80 kms remaining, and secondly I managed to get the battery to charge all the way to the top, during several downhill stints. The journey was from Colombo, to Belihuloya, and then to Ampara (Buddhangala Monastary). 3 passengers, plus enough luggage to make the car scrape on a pebble. Total mileage is only 15K kms, but suffice to say the car is still daily driven for over two hours, albeit short distances in traffic, thus the battery does get a workout. Another surprising find is that the LDA feature works *really REALLY* well on A roads where markings are clear, even on the twisty bits. It identifies broken lines, continuous lines, and the parallel continuous lines with no issue at all. Not really sure why I'm surprised, but considering this is Sri Lanka, the fact that anything works is really quite miraculous.

The engine will be under strain in D (or any lower gear) and R, so there might be increased vibration and a lowering of the engine note. It was quite discernible in my Vios, however excessive vibration is an issue.

Considering how reluctant current owners are to let go of their Solunas, I do believe it's a solid car. And don't let the fact that it's made in Thailand put you off, my Vios was as solid and reliable as they came.

Ask the seller if he can use the Global Shipping program. That way you pay all the fees including customs clearance at once to DHL, and they will deliver the package to your doorstep. I've used it twice thus far with camera equipment.

There's no need to get a DSLR to for video (I own a Canon 60D and use MagicLantern for video). Get a good quality point and shoot like a Sony RX 100IV, or for something more affordable a Canon SX280 (or even a SX260 which I also own and takes great Full HD video).

I never run it dry, the low fuel indicator comes on when there's a little more than 6 litres left, thus I never fill more than 31 litres during refueling.

This happens to me when I forget to take off the parking brake sometimes.

Mine just did 590ish kms on a full tank on a trip to Anuradhapura last week, and also ticked over 14000kms on the ODO as well. So far no issues at all, the traction pack appears to be the same, or may have actually improved because I only used to get between 17 and 18 in Colombo last year, but that has increased to 19.5-20 this year. However as of October, I no longer drive that car regularly (father has taken over that responsibility) as I've moved very close to my office and either walk to work or get a lift from my wife.

The Axio WxB has a 1.8 engine out of the outgoing Prius, so it will have better performance than the regular Axio Hybrid. The issues I've heard from Vezel owners have been transmission related. There's one 2013 model which overheats the transmission quite often.

Not sarcasm. The rear wiper was honestly a major prerequisite. I hate not having rear vision when it's raining.

Have you considered a Starlet EP90 series?

The defroster does nothing while it's raining though.

This something one with any sedan without a rear wiper has to live with. The rear wiper was a major factor for me when I chose my car, else I would have gone with a Grace as well.

I once got so pissed with the bearing noise in my Vios, I bought replacements for all 4 wheels. Luckily, only the rear left needed replacing. My mechanic said that you'll know well in advance before a hub fails catastrophically. The same issue is there in my Starlet, but to lesser extent, when coasting it sounds like i'm inside one of the more quiet cars on a train, i.e. low, metallic grinding noise.