MrCat

Hello @Supra_Natural Yeah, the photos are broken because potobucket decided to screw us over in style and got rid of free accounts. Unfortunately my MX-5 project was abandoned prematurely due to two reasons : 1.) The closet most accessible race track got closed down over here. There are only 2 more tracks in the city I live, one about 200kms away and other about 70kms away. At this point in life I just don’t have the time or the energy to do those tracks, whilst risking the long expensive tow back home if/when I break things. So a track oriented build wouldn’t make much sense. 2.) Even if I restore it to be a weekend car, I still can’t take my 2 year old daughter AND wife for a drive. Figured it`ll be easier to avoid that conflict and drop the cash in to something fun that the three of us can all jump in and go for a drive. Wish I kept the car, especially since it was a limited edition JDM spec, but I just don’t have the space to store/park. 1st gen NA Mx-5s still makes me giggle when I see one, for me they are the best mechanical fun per dollar hands down.! Wish you luck in finding one in SL, it`ll be a ripper to carve some remote mountain roads with the top down! Even Mark2 (NB series) is OK if you can find one.

Cheers sir..! Not a kid anymore but.. Hmmm... block guard and all the good stuff for more revvvvvs.. nice..!

Duuuude..!! It has been a while since I had a peek at Project R in AL and a shit ton of stuff has happened..! Good stuff and congrats..! Just to refresh my memory, what exactly is this base engine? B18C? Any idea about power/torque output at all?

My own choice? BMW 328i if it is a mid sized compact sedan.

Yeap, IMHO Mazda made a bit of a blunder with the RX-8, overshadowed by its own brilliant products such as the RX-7 and the MX-5. They tried to make more of a GT car rather than a pure sports car and also tried to keep the unreliable fuel guzzling rotary engine going in its product line-up. These days they are mostly good for engine swaps, even that`s a bit difficult since the front sub-frame is designed to take the rotary.

I have a 1985 Ford Laser (essentially the same car as the Mazda 323) which is currently getting restored. Mechanically, it is such a simple car that any competent mechanic could work on it. My car`s engine got rebuilt at home, under the front porch. Do the usual checks: Oil leaks, status of the carburetor (engine idling properly and does not hesitate under load), gear change, cooling system, etc… Consumables like suspension parts, engine mounts, drive belts, etc… are not hard to find. In fact, most spares are not hard to find. With a car of this vintage, rust and bodywork will be your worst enemy. Apart from being a 32 year old car, there`s nothing specifically wrong with this model. But as other`s have pointed out, you might have to put on a bit of effort (financially, research, minor repairs, etc.. ) to make an older car properly reliable (regardless of the model/brand)

Most cigarette lighters sockets are rated at around 120 watts. This means the socket should be able to pull 10A, possibly fused (maxed) at 15 or 20 AMPs. How that little jumper could start a car (even a small 4 cylinder) is beyond me.! You might be better off getting a set made using some good quality copper cable. I recently tried to start a 2.3 litre petrol GDI engine with a 400 AMP cable, the cable just couldn’t pull enough juice to start the car.!

I’ve had a Diesel Land Rover where I used to de-grease the engine and undercarriage 2-3 times an year for 4.5 years! Proper degreaser used correctly does not cause any issues at all. Degreaser is obviously good for those annoying oil leaks. IMHO, there is NO need to use any other chemical detergent under a car. A pressure wash and a good old hand scrub with a brush (wherever that is required) is all you need.

Genuine hoses last a long time under normal operating conditions. I`ve had 10 year old cars with about 150k kms on the clock, with all the hoses untouched. I`ve also had a 20 year old car where the hoses ‘looked’ to be the factory items when I eventually replaced, again about 160k on the clock. But there is a massive difference in quality between Genuine or OEM hoses against cheap aftermarket crap (including cheap silicone replacement hoses). I`ve used screw type clamps on all sizes of cooling system hoses and inter-cooler hoses without any issues. However, make sure to use band clamps with ‘Rolled Edges’, these don’t damage the hose.

Whoa..!! Great Stuff..! Visited AL after a while, so good to see some projects going on.!

Eva looking quite smart Octanehead...! So good to see things getting sorted properly..! Quick question, may I know how/where you got the M Tec II re-wrapped? Good condition M Tec II prices have gone through the roof these days (especially the ones that fit E30s, not exactly sure whether E36 ones are the same). I`ve got an E30 with a M Tec I, been thinking about getting a M Tec II. But if i can get one re-wrapped in SL for a reasonable price, i might just find a crappy one and ship it over.

AFAIK, the Jimny came with the same engine (G13/M13) as the Swift, so engine components will be easy as to find. Obviously, being a 4WD, the drive-train is a bit more complex compared to a little FWD car (March). But it is a such a simple car that any makabass could work on it. To avoid disappointment and potential surprises, it is always advisable for a potential owner to get to know the car before letting a makabass wrench on it.

I agree, Mazda did extremely well with the whole Zoom-Zoom promotion. They got chassis tuning and suspension (on the firm side) right and packaged things nicely. Whilst Honda lost its plot, Mazda became the new Honda. I`ve got a 2010 Mazda 6 and IMHO it`s the best in its class in terms of drivability, at its price point. I also agree that the ‘fun factor’ is not entirely lost in modern cars, mainly due to the responsiveness bought in by stronger/stiffer chassis design and engines producing sufficient low end toque. Even a current model Corolla is quite chuckable around corners when compared to the sloppy cars they were in the 90s. However, the ‘feel’ of a car (especially to a car person) is something beyond responsiveness. It`s in the steering feel, the brakes, transmission feel, exterior and interior design, power delivery, noise, etc… a bit hard to pin-point and explain really. Take breaks for example. In its most basic form it would have a boosted hydraulic system (most common in the 80s/90s). Then ABS was added, reducing pedal feel and manual modulation in the process. You can stomp on the brakes, the ABS module will take over and do the rest. Then came active braking, which will prime the brakes for you even before you put your foot on the pedal.!. Don’t get me wrong, these technologies are a blessing when it comes to ease of driving and safety. I would take a new car for daily driving without thinking twice. But to drive for the heck of driving, to pamper and preserve, to take out and feel great, modern appliances on wheels just don’t work for me.

Just remembered since you mentioned BMWs. I`ve done quite a bit of research about the E30 in the past, and they`ve been going up in value globally. The prices of E30 M3s have gone absolutely bonkers. IMHO, this is due to the exact reasons you`ve mentioned. Since late, I`ve been thinking/researching about the E36 M3 as well, because they are still relatively affordable and I believe they will start following the E30 M3 in future, in terms of value. Take the E36 M3 for example. It`s got a 3.2 liter naturally aspirated straight 6, which is capable of screaming all the way to 7500 rpm. The suspension geometry is well designed (nothing electronic) and the power is put down through mechanical LSD. The mechanical bits are very robust and relatively easy to fix even if something goes wrong. Fast forward 20 years in to the current model F80 M3. It will absolutely rape an E36 in terms of performance. And is probably a very comfortable place to live as well (I haven’t driven one). But would it still retain its character in 20 years’ time? Would the electronics would even continue to work after some hard use? And when that electric water pump/differential/suspension give up, would it be worthwhile to even try and restore things back to original specs? I personally think not.

You are right, automobiles have fallen victim to being ‘state of the art’ and ‘rapid design/production time’, just like any other consumable item these days. Planned obsolescence is embedded in to certain items produced these days, so the focus is more on production > consumption > throw away/recycle. I mean, with the exponential growth of technological advancements, who would want to over-engineer a car (at the expense of a massive design budget) which would become out-of-date in a decade? So the current principle (IMHO) is to come up with a global platform (get the basics right in terms of chassis, engine, etc….) load it up with technical wizardry and try and sell as many copies as possible. Its supply and demand as well. Nobody cares about good chassis balance these days, it’s all about that internet enabled entertainment system with 15 speakers..! In the 90`s, Toyota used to sell at least 5 two door sports coupes globally (MR2, Supra, Celica, Levin, Paseo). This is what I remember, there could have been more. Now they are struggling to sell a single sports coupe (the GT 86), and they had to partner-up with Subaru to design and market even that.! I agree, most of the modern mass produced cars “feels” the same, they mostly differ in terms of electronic gadgetry. Having driven a few new 200+ HP cars (with variable geometry turbos, variable speed steering racks, dual clutch gear boxes, electronic differentials, toque vectoring and all that jazz) , I keep going back to my 20 year old 130HP Mazda MX5 for its sheer mechanical brilliance and analog feel!

Thanks MADZ..!

Thanks Maan.! how did you find it? am i not seeing or missing something here?

That will be great MADZ. My signature basically had a list of cars I`ve owned, with a brief description of each. That bit of text is all i need. If you could access the database direct (dont know whether the forum is still using the old database or whether it`s migrated to a new DB somehow), perhaps it`s still attached to my user record?

The site looks great MADZ.! Quick question on the new forum though, i cant see an option to use/edit a signature. Are signatures not allowed in the new forum? Just trying to figure out how to find my signature on the old forum, because my signature was actually built/updated over a number of years.

Hello, I am sorry I don’t know about sourcing an engine in SL. I am sure you`ve done your research, but I am just adding my 2 cents worth. Think a little bit about ‘torque’ when building a Honda engine, as this makes a massive difference in day-to-day drivability. A b18C for example, has got a longer stroke, therefore producing more lower end torque. A b18 vtec head on a b20 block on the other hand, can be built to produce 200hp reliably and with enough torque to make it an extremely enjoyable drive. The way I would approach is that I would do the research and list all the parts required, rather than just focusing sourcing an engine from somewhere. If you can find a complete kit that suits your requirements, that’s a bonus. But if you can`t find, you can always collect all the parts required over some time. It`s not too hard to put a Honda engine back together (i.e. rebuild), but the hard bit is to be patient and to source components that work well together. Even if it takes an year or two, if you can build that engine right (together with proper engine management, preferably an LSD diff with matching transmission, matching header and exhaust) it will be worth the wait. I know it all depends on the budget as well, but if you initially spend the money on the essentials (head, block, engine management) then other things can be added later on (exhaust, LSD, etc…) I`ve driven only one properly built Honda in my life (a Civic Ek9, 2 door) so far, and the way that thing delivers power, grip around corners and the way the car rotates around (at corner entry and exit) is truly exhilarating. I don’t see why the same cannot be achieved with an EG8, good luck..!

Depends on what you “want” really. Do you want AWD grip (WRX, Evo) or a proper RWD sports coupe (the Z)? The uniqueness of rotary engine (RX8) or a relatively comfortable cruiser (320i)? Do you need seating for 4 or just one passenger? My preference would be in this order: Top 3: ** 2002 Evo 7 GTA – proper AWD turbo performance, plenty of after-market support/additions available. ** 98 evo 6 gsr – same as above, but older model ** 2003 fairlady z – designed to be sports car from ground up, reliable non-turbo v6 power. The rest: ** 2001 wrx sti – quite ok for a cheap performance car, but I prefer a 4g63 over an ej20 for performance upgrades and ‘easier to work on‘ factor. ** 2007 legacy b4 – I presume non-turbo, 3.0R spec? More a powerful cruiser than a raw performance car, personally not a big fan of heavy larger cars for driving fun ** 2006 Bmw 3 series 320i – apart from great steering feel, this is underpowered and nowhere near in terms of performance compared to the cars above ** 2003 rx8 – as far as I am concerned, a bit of a failure from Mazda So yeah, I would go Evo or Z..!

There could be a few reasons why the thread is still not sealing properly: · The tapping process (making the hole bigger) wasn’t done properly · The thread on the new screw/plug does not match the tapped thread · The washer used is not a ‘crushing’ type I would be extremely careful before letting anyone muck around with the oil sump, as it can be painful/expensive to replace the sump. You could try a couple of things: · Examine/measure the thread pattern on the plug used and the newly tapped thread. Try and find a perfect match · Try using a proper ‘crush’ washer in the correct size, which would seal the gap between the plug and the sump

The brakes are quite good in an MX-5, even in standard form. Being the 1.8 litre “NA” series, this car had larger brakes from factory, which were installed in the second generation (“NB” series). I am still in two minds about what to do with the brakes. Going all the way and getting a ‘Big Brake’ kit (larger callipers, possibly dual piston, larger rotors, etc…) Improving the standard brakes with: better drilled/slotted rotors, better pads and braided brake lines With the car being so light, option 1 might require an additional adjustable brake proportional valve as well, to achieve proper brake bias between front and back. Option two would work well, unless the car gets turbo charged producing an additional 100-150HP. With good quality components, I am quite sure that the standard brakes will hold up well during light to moderate track work. I still haven’t tracked the car, so will decide later on. But for the moment, we decided to check, clean and re-install existing calipers and rotors. The front pads got replaced. Brake lines and clutch line were bled, and fed with new fluid. Front pads ready to go in: A big thank you to my father who did most of the hard work:

Hello All, Finally found some time to update the thread. Car was quite dirty, inside and out. Also, the engine had a leak or two from somewhere. The previous owner said that it`s the crank shaft (front) oil seal, but I had to make sure. So we decided to take the fenders and front bumper off to inspect. Inside, the seats and center console were taken off. We started off by de-greasing the engine and undercarriage. The undercarriage suspension components were pressure washed and scrubbed. Here are some pics taken during the process. Front, with the bumper off: Sump and steering rack: Front, driver`s side: Front passenger side: Interior, passenger side: Bumper components and front lip spoiler getting pressure washed:

Just continuing with the story on the purchase… I had specific requirements on the Mx-5 I wanted. First of all, it needed to be a 1st generation car (“NA” series). The second generation (NB) is a bit more heavier, more refined, and is essentially not as ‘analog’ in terms of driving feel when compared to the NA.The very first Mx-5 debuted in 1989 (code named NA6) had a 1.6 liter DOHC motor (code named B6ZE). From 1993 to early 1997, Mazda dropped the 1.8 liter BP engine in and code named the series as NA8. I preferred a first generation which was manufactured towards the end of the life cycle, because this is when manufacturers tend to load up cars with better features and components (to keep the sales going before new product version comes out).I quite like the hard-top on an Mx-5, because it tend to make things a bit quieter inside and also aids (although very minor) with structural rigidity.It is to be used as a project car, so a pristine low mileage example was not a necessity. I dont mind getting minor things fixed/worked on, but didn’t really want a modified/hacked piece of junk either. Something in-between with just enough Km`s on the clock and average condition to keep the costs down would be fine.So when this particular car came up for sale (in a local classifieds site) on a Saturday evening, it pretty much ticked all the boxes. I jumped on it straight away and bought is Sunday morning. The car is made in 1996 and it had 154,371 km`s on the clock. The previous owner hasn’t really thrashed it, but it wasn’t a pampered show piece either. We`ve got strict import rules in here in Australia, so JDM cars are quite rare. To my surprise, this car was a JDM import, bought in to the country in year 2000..! I knew that it was a JDM when I bought it home, but nothing much. A couple of days later noticed a sticker on the driver side door jamb, which read ‘VR Ltd Com B’. Did some further research and realized that I’ve picked up a bit of a Unicorn..! It is a JDM Limited Edition made in 1996. Specifically, named “VR-Limited Combination B” and limited to 800 examples..! From what I gather, this limited run came out with the following: · British Racing Green color with color matched genuine hard-top · Lightweight Aluminum Alloys – 15 X 6 · Koni shocks and springs all round – adjustable dampening in front · Front strut bar from factory. Brace bar behind seats · Black interior with leather seats · Some JDM bling inside – aluminum shift knob, aluminum parking brake leaver cover, brushed aluminum speaker surrounds, polished aluminum ‘Roadster’ scuff plates, etc.. · MOMO 3 spoke steering wheel · JDM yellow fog lights · Color-coded ‘Eunos’ and ‘Roadster’ badging here and there