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Davy

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Everything posted by Davy

  1. A very happy new year to everyone! Drive safe!
  2. Great write-up Schiffer. Good work! Most new cars come with a horn relay as far I as I know. I installed a pair of Stebel snail horns a few years back and I followed pretty much the same process as Schiffer. Still works well. The best way to check if your car has a horn relay is to disconnect both horns (remove the live wire from each horn) and press the horn switch on the steering while listening for a click from the engine bay (especially the fuse box). No click means no relay. It's important to remember that newer cars might come with Triac circuits instead of relays, so you won't hear a click although there is a relay mechanism.
  3. http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/4050-suzuki-sx4/ http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/10450-suzuki-sx4/ http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/15755-the-great-battle-suzuki-sx4-sedan-vs-mitsubishi-lancer-ex-16/
  4. I believe It's just the "8" now. Sigh...
  5. I have pumped from that station a couple of times because I used to travel to Polgahawela frequently, but I haven't seen a noticeable drop. Probably because I travel during the weekend and because I take the Pasyala - Hanwella road which is traffic free and fun to drive over the Kandy Road.
  6. Getting the feeling like the agent was right about the fuel pump. Having to crank longer the first time is probably a result of the pump not working as intended. Not sure about the Demio, but some vehicles come with serviceable fuel pumps where the filter can be replaced without having to replace the whole pump as a unit. But if the pump is not giving enough pressure due to the pump itself being faulty (they do lose pressure over time), then servicing will not work. M@zna M0t0rs should be having genuine parts (or will import for you) for a much lower price.
  7. According to the web, it's a pearl colour.
  8. How about Rally Red (colour code P85)? The colur that comes on Evolutions. P26 (also Rally Red) is what you get on the Lancer EX RalliArt and is pretty close to what you already have.
  9. If you read through the initial posts on this thread, you can find out.
  10. Unit#d Mot#rs to discontinue selling the current Viva Elite as per this news article. Owners might want to check up with UniMo on what to do about availability of spares and stuff. Couldn't locate an English translation of the article.
  11. Please don't clutter the forum opening new threads when you've opened an Audi A4 thread just last week here. The forum is already full of Audi A4 threads. A simple search would have resulted in the lot below: http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/14582-audi-a4/ http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/14272-audi-a4-a6/ http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/9459-audi-a4-18t-2002/ http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/4201-bmw-e36-audi-a4/ http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/9614-2002-bmw-318i-autotrip-vs-2002-audi-a4-18t-autotrip/ http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/12589-audi-a4peugeot-406-307/
  12. You're welcome. I'm glad you found this useful.
  13. Depends on so many other factors such as the year of manufacture, mileage, condition, trim (GL or GLX). The value is finally what the buyer is willing to pay for a particular specimen. Please search the forum, there is enough and more info about the entire Lancer CS series. Appreciate if a moderator can please merge this thread with an existing CS1 thread. Thanks!
  14. Once my uncle's car died suddenly (in Melbourne) and I was with him at the time. After about 15 minutes of trying to get the car to start, he called his breakdown service. The guy turned up and the first thing he did was try to jump start. Then he took a small bottle with a pointed neck (bit like a silicone tube) filled with petrol, took off the PCV tube and asked me to start the car while he squirted some petrol into the PCV tube towards the intake manifold. The engine sputtered back to life (so it was a fuel pump issue which was sorted out later). I thought to myself that day what an innovative way that was to get some petrol into the cylinders without having to remove the air filters and stuff. As for the fuel pump testing method suggested above by me, it can only be used to get to know whether the pump is getting power or not. Should be quite helpful to OP.
  15. Simply start filling in with 92 octane if the manufacturer has specified that 92 octane is okay. You need not follow any specific procedure.
  16. I'm not exactly familiar with alloy wheel prices these days, but I think a set of brand new alloys will cost you a lot over 25,000. Also, you will have to look at Alloys to which your existing tyres can be installed because you have no room for a set of tyres in that budget. There's nothing wrong with going for a set of refurbished used alloys as long as they are in good condition. Try JJ L@nka Alloys at Mount Lavinia. They do have recon alloys as well as new ones. Last time I went there, they had a gorgeous set of OZ Racing wheels that was a perfect fit for the CS, refurbished. Didn't even ask for the price because I was there only to buy a centre cap for a friend's car.
  17. None of the spoilers on that site look like the original spoiler that comes with the CS (except for the black three spoke one). Also, the spoiler that comes with the CS pre-facelift (2001 - 2004) is different from the one that came with the facelift (2004 onward). The latter was curved to go with the curved trunk lid as opposed to the flat trunk lid top on the pre-facelift. Some spoilers on ads in that website look horrible if you ask me. So if you are specifically looking for an OEM spoiler for your car, call the guy on this post. As for alloys, are you looking for an aftermarket set or the original alloys?
  18. It's normal for the idle RPM to sit above 1000 or even close to 2000 when the engine is cold. It should however settle down just below 1000 (say around 800) or as per your car's manufacturer's specification. How many Kms has the car done since the last tune up? Carbon deposits on the throttle body might cause the idle control meachanism to behave abnormaly.
  19. Not sure what's up with your main relay, but I think you should first try to sort out your original issue. To confirm whether it's the fuel pump relay, you need to park your car in the sun and bring it to a point where it doesn't start. When this happens, switch on the car and check if the fuel pump is operating. The pump should be located underneath the back seat. Placing your palm over the pump will tell you if it's working. If it's not, then it could be that the fuel pump relay is at fault. If the relay is inside the car as you say, then this may very well be the issue.
  20. Was the used Japanese master cylinder overhauled with a repair kit before it was installed? From your explanation, it looks like your problem started after the installation of the used master cylinder and the servo. So it's likely that the problem is with either the servo or the master pump (or both). First check if you can spot any visible leaks in the tube that runs from the servo to the intake manifold. It might be audible too if you listen closely. Search the forum on how to check the servo (it has been shared many times before). You can perform those tests yourself and are pretty easy. Edit: Just in case you cannot find info on how to test the servo, here it is (direct link to post by Rumesh88): http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/15409-break-issue/#entry245590
  21. You mean your car started without the main relay in place? That's impossible (unless someone has rewired your car bypassing the main relay somehow)!. The main relay usually controls the fuel pump, and injectors without it your car is going nowhere. Wondering now whether my initial guess above is right. I had a similar experience with one of my old cars and it was a relay that had gone bad and stopped switching on when hot.
  22. Might be due to a number of reasons.: - Clutch needs to be adjusted. Since the release point of the clutch is too close to the floor board, it might not be disengaging fully. This could cause the gear lever to become stiff. - Worn out gear linkage bushes. (because you randomly find it hard to shift while driving). A visual check will help identify any issue with the bushes. - Your clutch master cylinder might be having a leaking washer. Overhauling the master cylinder with the repair kit will solve the issue. To check if this is the issue to begin with, when you start the car, let the engine idle for about 30 seconds, press the clutch fully and release it about three times in a pumping fashion and then hold the clutch. Then try to shift. If the gear shifts easily, then it's probably a failing master cylinder. - Check the state of your transmission oil (gear oil). If it has never been changed, you might have to do a transmission oil change. It also might be because the transmission has an oil leak and is running low on oil. How's the condition of the clutch? Have you replaced it during the past 2.5 years? Related threads already in existence: 1. http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/13031-stiff-gear-lever/ 2. http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/4300-gear-change-issue/
  23. Thank you for reminding! I remember the reading somewhere that the release date was set to November 17th or something. Anyway, downloading now.
  24. <blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="Randeep" data-cid="268601" data-time="1415286495"><p> Yes. I saw that thread. The dash cam mentioned in that thread has been broken after 5 months or so. Just wanted to know about a reliable cam model from AL users.</p></blockquote> Still you would have been answered if you posted your question in the thread Magnum shared, because it's basically the same question. AL is seriously overflowing with multiple redundant threads which makes information even hard to find.
  25. Good job on being persistent about finding the source of the leak! I'm with The Don on this one. The water level shouldn't rise up to the level where the wire goes into the cooler housing, if it's being drained out properly.
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