chan5

Need the exact same part for same car. PRND2L plate. Let me know if you find extra one. My one was broken by service station idiot putting the high power vaccume pump to plate in interor cleaning. Searched in amayama and plate will cost 4000 as it reaches your place.

Nilwala motors it is. Did a complete overhaul of the gearbox of our Toyota Caldina 18 months back. Cost 27k. After about 40000km from repair it is still running strong. No issues. Being your one is CVT it would be complicated job. But not impossible. I have been to komisiripala's mechaninc, but honestly felt that NILWALA guy is more sub speciliced on gearboxes exclusively. ¤ As a rule of thumb just stay away from the MAKABASSES who are planning to replace engine/gearbox at first place. Nobody knows the quality of the recon parts you put in. Best shot is rebuild it properly.

I Am NOT a Korando user. But for god sake... If you have service manual or user or workshop manual,please feel free to share it here without saing im happy to point out source. Sometimes, it may helpful for some other user in another 5/6years later or so. Just saying

No

Dont bother about the part number. Just dismantle it and take to recon air condition parts shop. You ll get what you need.better get a one with atleadt 3 month warranty.

Oh god... Has a caldina cz at our home and clearly rember we had those roof mounted air purifier with all controls in itself with dome light. Also the Conlight was there but unfortunately i remember one electrecian removed it while on another repair of dash, saying that it is used to japanese security purposes or so. Damn. ... Must be somewhere at the house.will be definitly trying to find. And yes it had underseat cointrays,some unknown gadget on top of the drivers seat on A Pillar.peole said it was a japanese toll gate paying system.so removed somewhere down the line. Feel so sorry about the conlight though.....

Just out of curiosity. Anybody know how much would it cost to fit OEM style evo front buffer with angry face grill,rear bumper.and spoiler to standerd EX. With good quality stuff,OEM or reputed brand.

Exactly.. Spoilers and even Hood railings are bolted to the body itself when it comes from manufacturer. Have seen some hood railings and spoilers which are fixed with gum or some double sided tapes which are local aftermarket jobs.if the spoiler is genuine,dont be so scared to dril a hole rayher than gluying it.take it easy dude.have seen it has been done to rether expensive euro and end resut was similer to factory fitted.

Corolla L touring and G Touring are mainly diesel varients. Have seen few petrol varients. There are two main type of wagons. 1- people carriers. 2- commercial vans. 2 is easy to spot with rear bench seat without headtest.rear leaf springs mechanical windows and so... AD wagon and all other corolla wagons exept L and G tourings and some caldinas. Assuming you need a people carrier wagon There are few. I have no experience about wingroad. If corolla, go for one of above mentioned. Make sure the rear end is shocks and headreats with seat belts on back seat. It comes with toyota 2C diesel engine which is very reliable with enough parts.since it shared among various cars and vans.comfortable as sedan and fuel consumption will be around 14-15 on long run.Had L touring which served for our family for more than 10 years with 250000kms on selling. We have a Caldina at our home which is CZ turbo varient. In my personal opinion its better than corolla.there is commercial van model you can easily dishtinguish from above. CZ-T model comes with,rear headrest seats with seat belt and indipendant adjustability.shocks on all four wheels.4channel ABS.electronic stability control unit.all power windows.winker mirrors with electronic adjustments.bigger AC condenser.2C Turbo diesel engine.75 liter fuel tank.hood railings, spoiler,and full light tail gate.and most of all its full 1 feet bigger boot than corolla.more spacios interior too.does 11 in colombo city traffic and 14-15 on long runs.with normal diesel. But this varient is as hard as finding G/L touring from other commen specimens. Alll these three models are made around 1996-1999. And the car is good as its last owner not who used it first. Check the proper engaging of gear when put to D.late engage with knock is symptom.specially in cold start.this autoboxes are on failing age.anyway it can compleatly rectify below 30k. Some rattles may be there which can be fixed. Look for corrosion of body. Ask for documents for engine overall if theres a history.which will cost you 150k if needed. My suggestions are. CALDINA CZT> COROLLA G TOURING > COROLLA L TOURING

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="Crosswind" data-cid="253643" data-time="1388390181"><p> <br /> <br /> <br /> The explanation is from a typical 'pothe gura'.<br /> Exactly which part of Sri Lanka are you from? Unless you are in Nuwara Eliya or somewhere, the early morning temperature will be at least 25 degrees even in December.<br /> For the Sri Lankan climate, monograde oil is just fine.</p></blockquote> For your infornation "PRACTCAL MAN." Just buy a cheapest thermo and measure it. Im at Hambantota city now At 11.30 pm and temperature here is 20.4C. You can atleast google for estimated values. Just jabbering without proper base mislead people.....

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="nano31" data-cid="253615" data-time="1388333846"><p> As long as the oil is from a reputed company (caltex/mobil/castrol/Toyota..etc) ,meets the required grades according to the car manufactures and changed at correct interval; there should not be significant difference!<br /> I personally use Mobil for autobox (20000km) and caltex DS for engine (2500km) for my Diesel 2C</p></blockquote> Caltex doesnt come under REPUTED in my book. Simply use Mobil, Castrol, Shell, BP or the manufacturer's product. And just follow the manufacturer recommended oil grade and drain intervals. Synthetic ATF is NOT decompose or break down in 6 moths or so as in Engine oils. Using monograde DS40 or so Called barreled crap and change engine oil is in 2500km intrrval is a retarded advice from local MakaBaasas which i also have heard several times.their assumption is new oil does good. The reson behind the multigrade oil is. When you start the engine at early morning, technically there is no actual oil flow beacuse the high viscosity of fluid at lower temperature. So in a regular car moere than 75% of engine wear occurs at this so called cold starts to few munites. When oil heats up.the viscosity falls and starts the proper flow between oil channels. Multigrade oils somehow manage to maintain the flow at your cold starts beacuse their bi-phasic viscosity. They have measured the viscocity at zero celcius as a standerd and represent as w value. Ex 15w40. So it protects your engine until oil temperature rises from, will say 18 celcius at early morning to 85-100 desirable temperature.but your monograde have none of this.it eat up the metal surfaces until oil reaches desired temperature. And this is the reason why some modern european diesels(passat,jetta,golf) have oil heater fitted to oil pan to heat up the oil faster in a cold start.probably to save few seconds but it saves few years of engine life. The explanation is OT but couldnt stand silent when somebody advice to pour monograde oil to engine.

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="Supra_Natural" data-cid="245850" data-time="1377058892"><p> <br /> Dunno about Malabe, I get my work done by a place called Classic Diesel engineers on castle street.. When headed towards rajagiriya on castle street its a tiny place on the left side just as you go over the railway tracks (soon after passing the Cemetery). Its not a fancy looking workshop but they know their stuff.</p></blockquote> Can somebody explain where is this shop now located at. Place has been cleared by renovation project.

Orderd a wireless reverse camera and monitor from e bay. All i got was a wire camera with incompatible connecting AV cable and monitor. I sent a message to seller and bugger want me to resend it for replacement. It already took 35 days to reach and resending and replacement will coat me two more months. In product description it clearly describes a wirelesss camera with all photos. What should i do at this stage.

And most importantly IOC XTRA MILE varient which is 2 rupees expensive than regular is same as common regular diesel. Unfortunately i have seen many 520d/Evoques and modern diesels were pumped by them. Assuming they are super diesel.. Country must have a proper standerd for this varients come by silly names and mislead customer..

Just go to battery joint. Remove terminals. Clean and refix properly. Had similar issue with AC and the trick settled it..... Just try it once

There is no limit or minimum space. You can fix it at similar distances. And do not paint it beacuse it looses the acuracy and range. But you can paint the surrounding ring but not the center part. And i have been using a chinese crap on my wagon. It did its job perfectly. even though parking skill is important sometimes its healthy to use parking aids before you break your bumper or run over the kid behind. Have seen it once ,and believe its shocking.

Importing the whole bunch of car is important beacuse we have 2 same cars in our family and its so easy than finding spares time by time. Did the same for our nissan NOTE earlier when gearbox was jammed. And the total cost of the parts im looking for is almost reaching the cost of importing the whole bunch myself.

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="EAP" data-cid="251433" data-time="1385212541"><p> Hi Don<br /> <br /> You make me LOL.</p></blockquote> Please inbox me the link... Will give it a try..

Thanks guys. An importer gave me a quote for whole car without chsssy for 600k. Which seems from prestine specimen. As my current bill for the necessary componants reach almost 400k im stuck between two options. To bring down a whole car or go for this offer.

Need a help on importing a peugeot from uk. My 406HDI knocked with a stationary 3 wheeler from front. have to replace front headlamp assays. Front bumper. Radiator. Cooling fan. Condenser. Fogs. Front left fender. Windscreen. Also i had a faulty fuel pump and steering rack with minor oil leak previously. So im thinking importing a whole dismantled car from uk. Which i can buy for 250k a prestine sample. i have no intention to sell mine for another 4 or 5 years and we have another HDI in our extended family ,so the remaining parts may useful in long run. My worries are. 1- how to ship it from there,any recommended breaker joint and related cost from purchase to FOB.do they break and ship for me? 2- How long will it take to reach sri lankan shores.? 3-what woud be the tax bracket im talking about.bribes and bla bla. ? 4-Paperwork related tp this and will it be a mess.? 5-which parts should i ommit by law? 6- if i can get the car between 200 to 250k , will i be able to get it down to SL below 500k. 7-what are the other issues which i am not seeing here.? thanks......

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="john cooper" data-cid="249312" data-time="1381477709"><p> Guys found 3 in Yakkala only 2C turbo</p></blockquote> How much did it cost you.. and what didi you get with it

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="dpbatagoda" data-cid="249355" data-time="1381551681"><p> Haven't observe any performance drop with fully synthetic even after 8000Kms and it was after running more than 8 months. <br /> <br /> If your car is not running more than 5000Kms in 6 months, better use normal oils. Else it;s a waste of money.<br /> Why I use 5000KM change interval is it get your car been serviced at regular intervals than servicing it at 10,000Kms.</p></blockquote> Thats a miaconception our makabasas have. Viscosity fluctuations are way beyond in mineral oils if you compare synthetic. Synthetic oils hold its specifications in longer durations.when you run the car daily the oil is subjected to warm and cool when you start and stop. This temperature change denatures the oil.thats why manufacturers advice to more frequently change oil in vehicles with frequent running and stop. Synthetics bear this up well .hence you use oils for longer duration.with minimum impact to internals. Modern vehicles need almost no service at 5000kms unless you use mineral oils.removing and refixing the wheels.applying grease underbody or apply kerosene oil to body panels are being done at so called regular service.which are useless.

These are general rules for oils. For mineral or semi synthetic oils you have to change oil in 5000km time.or 6 months. If fully synthetic oil . Run it for 10000 km or 1 year max. Considering the fuel quality environmetal temperature . Humidity and dust it not always possible to folllow manufacture adviced high changing intervals. And simply i am not quite sure how this mineral oils can cope up with such extreme viscosity margins. If its me. I will use mobil or castrol or motul or bp or shell FULLY SYNTHETIC oil. Just omit toyota mineral oils. Change the oil with filter in 10000 kms. The beauty of synthetic oil is it keeps its specifications on large bandwith of condittions.while mineral oils do fail here.

Since you think about rebuilding it. I would say yes.thats it should be. To start with Get a decent local garage or mechanic to dessemble the engine. Get the re boring or sleeving to be done at decent place with the sophistication and mechinary and trained hands are available. I would recommend d*mo or ediri*inghe. The rings gaskets all the seals and sleevs should be TOYOTA OEM.do not go for substitutes for here. In case you need pistons go for alpine. Do not forget to rebuilt cooling system. Replace the thermostat valve with OEM. drain and clean the radiator.replace all major horses. And dont forget the radiator cap to replace.refill with coolent (green) will say c*ltex or str would do. Use premix beacuse the others causes sludge with time.. Injector pump is the one to touch with care. Toyota lanka does it for 22000 bucks with all parys but you can do it from a experienced joint like klevenberg.the rule is use genuine denso injectors and OEM repair kit wherever you do.did it with a local joint for labour cost of 2000rs and belive me no issues so far. Remove the starter motor and re do the brushes and lubricating and service stuff to make sure not to have troubles on the go.a regular motor guy would do it for you. Rebuild the turbo (if 2CT) with repair kit. Replace the oil pump and water pump. Go for genuine ASIN brand.which is the oem supplier for Toyotas. Tappet clearance to be done at decent garage.there is calibarated sim like card to do it easily.get it done with correct tools.easy job. Replace the engine mounts all 4 . Genuine is utterly expensive.go for recon good set if your mechanic can find. Or brand RBI woud do.mind you it will last within average 2 years. But you can replace 5-6 such sets for price of oem.do the math here. Check the shock absorber mounts. Steering rack mounts. Gearbox mounts lower arm bushes as needed. Do service the AC system with lubricate regas and preasurize the system to find leaks. It will cost you 5000 bucks but keep you trouble free for next so miles. Fill with quality engine oil. I recommend as following order. Shell rimula 15w40. Mobil delvac 15w40. Castrol rx 15w40. (Toyota is differently packed mobil) If you so keen Mobil fully synhetic 5w40. First 500 kms with rpm less than 2000. Replace filter and oil at 500 kms. Then refill new oil. filters go for VIC or sakura if in budget. Change in every 5000km. You are trouble free for next 150000 miles. Please note that these are according to my experience and there may be alternatives for my recommendations.

ruwan is the one to go. as i remember,the place is Rexton motors or so. reliable work. decent rates.