charithtg

do a search here on AL, and on google as well with reference to Sri Lanka. you'll find many companies who import these, out of it there will be few which can be considered as reputable. hope you'll find a good deal.

Just wondering why the Stingray Turbo is reselling cheaper than a regular Stingray is reselling these days. found few of them abt 3 mil +/- 50K and same milaged Stingray is at the same price range or more.. Any ideas ppl??

2019 is out and it looks awesome. got a quote for 6.3 mil. it think its a bit high for a small hatch back... well its a bit longer than the old A1 i think..

MapFactor Navigator for Android. a good alternative to Google. but no traffic updates, and dont need internet due to that and SL map is free to DL. there are other SL maps that you can purchase as well.

dude, by any chance to you have the removed tensioners with you. if so can you check whether you can see bearing numbers on those suckers... a pic or two would help too..

Saw the same thing in autovision as well, but long time back, about 2-3 years. if you can find the episode online, his details where shown on the screen as well. i put it in my fone at that time, but the fone is long gone now

Why is it asking to log in to FB ? ? ?

the unit is something similar to this, i was talking about the big gear wheel, which the motor is connected to. im the FB15 theres a spring underneath the big gear wheel, which restricts its rotation range..

sorry i didnt take any, its the big nylon gear wheel which the helical gear of the electrical motor is attached to. that wheel is connected to the actuator arm which pivot to lock and unlock the door. this wheel is under spring tension. what i accidentally did was release this wheel from that tension. let me see if google search will have a pic of it.

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from the first look this might look like a electrical problem but its NOT so my father inlaw has a FB 15 which the rear passenger door locks are somewhat sketchy. they locks fine when the lock key is pressed on the sec system, but the locks only partially opens when unlocked. so even though the front are unlocked the rear doors are partially unlocked. so last week i dismantled the doors and suspected that there might be obstructions to moving parts so cleaned the mechanical parts, lubricated them but same result. then i disassembled the sealed lock motor mechanism as well cleaned, greased and fitted with no change. Disassembled it again just to see if anything is stuck. the spring that hold the big gear wheel in the center position got loose when i closed the two covers of the assy, just being curious i left it like that and fixed everything back. so now the main gearwheel which is connected to the motor is free to rotate when motor is powered without the tension of the spring.. surprisingly the auto lock was working fine afterwards. My question is for anyone that is familiar with the mechanism. now with the motor mechanism and the gearwheels inside of the sealed unit is free from the spring tension, will it create any other problems due to the removal of the spring tension? the spring is there for a reason neh?? PS-i did the same thing to the other side door and it works fine as well....

is there a possibility that you could share those points in here. i think there's a good wagon r review in youtube which explains how the system works but none explains the "what to look for and what to stay away from" part. thanks

FYI http://www.wagonr.lk/li-ion-battery-2/

try to give it to a proper servicing station if they take it. coz as i know most of the servicing stations are inspected by authorities frequently for proper disposal of these kind of materials. so they usually dispose the oils properly, this is a huge business as well, collecting used oil, these are largely used to coat the inner surfaced of cement, concrete, clay molds as well. there might be few companies in colombo who take oils in, in a large quantity as i know that the only place in SL who can properly burn these used oils is the Holcim cement furnace. there are other compnies who use these to burn and generate heat, but that is not the proper way. you best option is to find a favorable service station to give your oils away, even at a small cost.

i think i saw a similar one on a peugeot 406. i would recommend checking with the shops who sells European spares.

So pulling up a very old thread just for a quick inquiry.. does anyone know a place to buy 24V LED bulbs for a jeep. white, yellow and red. i looked in Petta but couldn't find any. want to check for the last time locally before ordering online. let me know, thanks.

Ah very nice car. i had the opertunity to drive one a month or so back. my cousin got one. pretty comfy as well. very good ground clearance compared to other cars in the same catagory. only thing is because the tyres are a bit slim when u view it from the front or the rear it looks a bit odd. would prefer a lil bit wide tyre, just for the sake of good looks .

so in connection to the black body discussion, as i remember right what i learnt about radiation n stuff, the color black is black because it absorbs all the light it gets and convert it to heat. For example, if you see a red car, that is because the material is absorbing all the light from the sun and only reflecting red thus you see red. So if there’s a possibility that you can direct a light bean that doesn’t have any red in it, the car would be black to out eyes. So with that, black absorbs everything and heat itself up. That is why we use those reflective shinny folding thingys to cover glass in the car, coz it reflects almost all the light including Infrared. When talking about radiators (water or oil) the purpose is to remove the heat from the liquids and release that to the air. So heat conducts from oil to the metal tubes n fins through convection thus not having anything in-between the two is better. The primary way of releasing heat from the radiator’s outer surface to the air is by convection. Thus according to what i know, having nothing in-between is the best as well. But to reduce corrosion n stuff a coating is applied that has the maximum coefficient of conductivity. Color really doesn’t matter in that sense. But lastly we have to give consideration to the environment the cooler or the radiator is in, it gets sunlight, and heat radiated from the engine. So with that the main method that heat will be transmitted to the radiator is through radiation. Thus, according to what i understand its better to have a outer appearance in light shinny color (i.e, aluminium) so that it won’t absorb the IR from the environment.

looks great man.. by the looks of it i assume that the Damn Hole Saw has no arrived yet. hope it shows up soon.. keep it up..

well good possibility the reason is the same we were discussing above .. hardly think its a TYPO..