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Replace Break Washers


mensoft

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:sport-smiley-004:

This is my project on repair rear wheel break washers. Suddenly my break paddle was going down more than it was. And poor break. Then when I check the break oil level. Rear break oil cylinder was empty.

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Then I check real wheels from the car behind I saw there is an oil leak. Once I went to the garage to change the break washer and they charged me 2500/= and I had to bring the parts too. Almost around 3600/= it cost. I thought this time I’m going to do and start the job.

Leak on wheel cylinder

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Tools I used for repair

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Had to buy break oil

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Little kerosene oil l to clean

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Edited by mensoft
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New break washers and cylinder covers. Spare parts shop ask whether need rubber grease also when I buy the oil and washers. I had no Ida abut this grease. They say that is use to put the washers without make them damage. Any way I brought that too.

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Then I clean all the parts with kerosene oil and then water and kept to dry.

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Edited by mensoft
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Clean the cylinder with a soft piece of cloth.

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Assembled all again with new washers.

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Bit difficult part is to put the springs back. (Forgot to say I got the sketch before I remove the springs)

Filled new oil to the master cylinder and send the air on break line .

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(For this you need a help of someone)

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Done. This time I spend only Rs.400. :sport-smiley-003:

Edited by mensoft
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All fine except the use of kerosene. NEVER use kerosene to clean rubber parts or anything in a vehicle. Use petrol or diesel. But never kerosene. Kerosene degrades rubbers. If you washed the cylinder with kerosene and put the new washers, any kerosene left over will start degrading the rubbers.

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All fine except the use of kerosene. NEVER use kerosene to clean rubber parts or anything in a vehicle. Use petrol or diesel. But never kerosene. Kerosene degrades rubbers. If you washed the cylinder with kerosene and put the new washers, any kerosene left over will start degrading the rubbers.

I never know that . :speechless-smiley-003:

I have seen most of the garage fellos clean the parts with kerosene. so i used . any way i washed all kerosene with water after .

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I never know that . :speechless-smiley-003:

I have seen most of the garage fellos clean the parts with kerosene. so i used . any way i washed all kerosene with water after .

Yes they use it. But on metal parts cos it helps dissolve the grease n dirt on parts. But I wouldn't be surprised if some of them used it on rubber too, considering its not their vehicle or their expense should the rubber parts require replacement sooner than normal.

PS: Did you say you spent Rs.3600 on the brake washers? Our 4DR5 has kinda similar washers and require replacement every now and again, and if I recall right they are nothing more than 120-150 a piece for sieken washers.

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Yes they use it. But on metal parts cos it helps dissolve the grease n dirt on parts. But I wouldn't be surprised if some of them used it on rubber too, considering its not their vehicle or their expense should the rubber parts require replacement sooner than normal.

PS: Did you say you spent Rs.3600 on the brake washers? Our 4DR5 has kinda similar washers and require replacement every now and again, and if I recall right they are nothing more than 120-150 a piece for sieken washers.

Ya Ya washers i got for 150.

3600/= went for replace washers + break liners too. (sorry for the mistake).

Edited by mensoft
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if you want to clean any thing related to break, use only water. don't use other things. also before put any break seals and rings use rubber grease. anyhow i can't view this pictures. this type of little things if you can do it by your self, can save lot of money also can get done quality work. can use parts for for long time. recently i had to replace universal joint bearings, i no had time to do it. i gave the job to a garaj. but they had not done it properly. now noise comming again.

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if you want to clean any thing related to break, use only water. don't use other things. also before put any break seals and rings use rubber grease. anyhow i can't view this pictures. this type of little things if you can do it by your self, can save lot of money also can get done quality work. can use parts for for long time. recently i had to replace universal joint bearings, i no had time to do it. i gave the job to a garaj. but they had not done it properly. now noise comming again.

Why do you say to use only water? And frankly the oils and grease wont be washed off with water. I hope you realize oil n water dont mix :)

I think petrol would be a better option as it washes away oil grease etc and evaporates within moments.

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oh! break oil is not an oil. it is a chemical. i will tel you little piratical. you put break oil on your rubber slipper and try to remove the oil using petrol. you can see you are unable to remove. now you put water. see what happen.

You're probably right be right on that with break oil, but most of the time the residue that needs cleaning is oil/grease mixed with dust/dirt rather than just brakeoil, right..

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I too recently did a clutch master pump oil seal replacement at home. hate working with brake oil though :(

For once i agree with Nilantha. Water is the best way forward to clean brake internals.

If the surroundings are dirty...it's best to clean all that much up with diesel or something before starting the job. Any hydraulic related repair should be done with max amount of cleanliness.

Also make sure the cylinder internals are clean.

I had to replace the clutch master pump washer kit within 2 months cos the previous garage guy didn't clean the master cylinder properly.

having an air compressor makes the process faster.

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Members,

This I came across on the web about brake system flushing.

How to Flush a Brake System

Published by

AaronCoates | August 24, 2011

I flush brake systems every day and if you follow these instructions, you will be able to flush out your brake system in about 20 minutes, without any help. This will save you a trip to the shop and your brake system will last a lot longer. Before we get right into the instructions though, there is something that need to be cleared up. Something that a shop will try to scam you on and you will never know the difference. It is that there are 3 different types of brake fluids used in these systems, and there is one of them that is good forever, so changing it is a complete waste of time and money.

DOT3 and DOT4 fluids are hygroscopic. This means they absorb moisture from the atmosphere. As you might know, the brake system works on friction, and friction makes heat. Brake systems produce a LOT of heat, and the fluid can reach 400 - 500 degrees even under normal use on some vehicles. Moisture (i.e. - water) has a boiling point of about 200 degrees. When the fluid absorbs the moisture, it lowers the boiling point of the fluid and this is when the damage starts. Boiling creates gas which creates tiny air bubbles in the brake system. These tiny air bubbles actually cause the inside of the system to rust (corrode), and that is what damages master cylinders, calipers, lines, and wheel cylinders, as well as the ABS pump and other system components.

The contaminated fluid effectively destroys everything it touches. DOT3 and DOT4 fluids are good for a period of 2 years, and they should be flushed out. It does not matter how many miles is on it, or anything like that, because the only 'danger' to the fluid is moisture. If you live in an excessively humid area, you might want to test the quality of your brake fluid with litmus strips once a year. It is a test strip that you just dip it in the fluid and if it changes colors, you have contaminated fluid and need to flush it out. DOT5 fluid, on the other hand, is silicone based and actually repels moisture, so it is considered a 'Lifetime' fluid. So if a shop tells you that you need to flush your DOT5 brake system, you should leave there IMMEDIATELY. It is used on higher end vehicles and some sports cars. * When it comes to mixing fluids, you can mix DOT3 and DOT 4 fluids, because they are made of the same chemicals. But DOT5 fluid should not be changed or mixed with anything but DOT5, because of the silicone based chemicals and is different from the others.

Now you know which fluids should be changed, why they should be changed and how often to change them. We can now start gathering tools for the project. Here is the list I go by:

* A turkey baster

* An old coffee can

* 1 foot of clear vacuum hose to put over the bleeder screws

* 1 quart of DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid

* A rag

* A wrench for the bleeder screw (8MM or 10MM, on most vehicles)

Though it is not always necessary, if you need to jack the vehicle up, be sure to use wheel blocks and jack stands before working under it!

The first thing to do here is to get the fluid out of the brake fluid reservoir. This is where the turkey baster comes in handy. So suck all the fluid out of the reservoir and put it in the coffee can. Then wipe out the reservoir the best you can with the rag and refill it with fresh clean fluid and replace the reservoir cap. Now you have clean fresh fluid 'loaded up' to be run through the system. We go to a wheel. Pick any wheel you want. Farther from the master cylinder is better to start with, because it takes more fluid to reach the farther wheels.

Okay, so you are at the wheel you want to bleed, now you need to open the bleeder screw and put the hose on it. The hose should be tight fitting, so no air is allowed to suck back into the system. Dip the other end of the hose into the brake fluid in the coffee can, so the end of it is completely submerged in the fluid. This will also ensure that no air enters the system. Now you can go pump the brake pedal. Pump it very slowly about 3 or 4 times, and watch the hose for the fluid to come out clean and new. You will see it turn clear from the dark muddy color of the old fluid.. Once it comes out clear, close the bleeder and refill the master cylinder. Now you are ready to move to the next wheel.

It only takes about 3-4 minutes to do each wheel, so by the time you gather tools, and do the job, you are done in about 20 -30 minutes. Doing this 30 minute procedure (45 minutes if you are having a beer), every 2 years do systems that use DOT3 and DOT 4 brake fluids will keep your brake system in top shape for many years, and save you quite a bit in repair bills on the brake system. It will also help ensure the safety of yourself and everybody else who drives on the roads with you.

Sylvi Wijesinghe.

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  • 3 years later...
  • 2 months later...

Members,

This I came across on the web about brake system flushing.

How to Flush a Brake System

Published by AaronCoates | August 24, 2011

I flush brake systems every day and if you follow these instructions, you will be able to flush out your brake system in about 20 minutes, without any help. This will save you a trip to the shop and your brake system will last a lot longer. Before we get right into the instructions though, there is something that need to be cleared up. Something that a shop will try to scam you on and you will never know the difference. It is that there are 3 different types of brake fluids used in these systems, and there is one of them that is good forever, so changing it is a complete waste of time and money.

DOT3 and DOT4 fluids are hygroscopic. This means they absorb moisture from the atmosphere. As you might know, the brake system works on friction, and friction makes heat. Brake systems produce a LOT of heat, and the fluid can reach 400 - 500 degrees even under normal use on some vehicles. Moisture (i.e. - water) has a boiling point of about 200 degrees. When the fluid absorbs the moisture, it lowers the boiling point of the fluid and this is when the damage starts. Boiling creates gas which creates tiny air bubbles in the brake system. These tiny air bubbles actually cause the inside of the system to rust (corrode), and that is what damages master cylinders, calipers, lines, and wheel cylinders, as well as the ABS pump and other system components.

The contaminated fluid effectively destroys everything it touches. DOT3 and DOT4 fluids are good for a period of 2 years, and they should be flushed out. It does not matter how many miles is on it, or anything like that, because the only 'danger' to the fluid is moisture. If you live in an excessively humid area, you might want to test the quality of your brake fluid with litmus strips once a year. It is a test strip that you just dip it in the fluid and if it changes colors, you have contaminated fluid and need to flush it out. DOT5 fluid, on the other hand, is silicone based and actually repels moisture, so it is considered a 'Lifetime' fluid. So if a shop tells you that you need to flush your DOT5 brake system, you should leave there IMMEDIATELY. It is used on higher end vehicles and some sports cars. * When it comes to mixing fluids, you can mix DOT3 and DOT 4 fluids, because they are made of the same chemicals. But DOT5 fluid should not be changed or mixed with anything but DOT5, because of the silicone based chemicals and is different from the others.

Now you know which fluids should be changed, why they should be changed and how often to change them. We can now start gathering tools for the project. Here is the list I go by:

* A turkey baster

* An old coffee can

* 1 foot of clear vacuum hose to put over the bleeder screws

* 1 quart of DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid

* A rag

* A wrench for the bleeder screw (8MM or 10MM, on most vehicles)

Though it is not always necessary, if you need to jack the vehicle up, be sure to use wheel blocks and jack stands before working under it!

The first thing to do here is to get the fluid out of the brake fluid reservoir. This is where the turkey baster comes in handy. So suck all the fluid out of the reservoir and put it in the coffee can. Then wipe out the reservoir the best you can with the rag and refill it with fresh clean fluid and replace the reservoir cap. Now you have clean fresh fluid 'loaded up' to be run through the system. We go to a wheel. Pick any wheel you want. Farther from the master cylinder is better to start with, because it takes more fluid to reach the farther wheels.

Okay, so you are at the wheel you want to bleed, now you need to open the bleeder screw and put the hose on it. The hose should be tight fitting, so no air is allowed to suck back into the system. Dip the other end of the hose into the brake fluid in the coffee can, so the end of it is completely submerged in the fluid. This will also ensure that no air enters the system. Now you can go pump the brake pedal. Pump it very slowly about 3 or 4 times, and watch the hose for the fluid to come out clean and new. You will see it turn clear from the dark muddy color of the old fluid.. Once it comes out clear, close the bleeder and refill the master cylinder. Now you are ready to move to the next wheel.

It only takes about 3-4 minutes to do each wheel, so by the time you gather tools, and do the job, you are done in about 20 -30 minutes. Doing this 30 minute procedure (45 minutes if you are having a beer), every 2 years do systems that use DOT3 and DOT 4 brake fluids will keep your brake system in top shape for many years, and save you quite a bit in repair bills on the brake system. It will also help ensure the safety of yourself and everybody else who drives on the roads with you.

Sylvi Wijesinghe.

Thank you very much as I am changing my wheel cylinders this infomation will do come in handy. :) Thanks

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I wonder where to buy a turkey baster in Sri Lanka? I used a large injection syringe 50ml or something to draw out air from the line. I did washed the injection syringe with water soon before the break fluid dissolved the thing. :sad-smiley-058:

Edited by Splat
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I wonder where to buy a turkey baster in Sri Lanka? I used a large injection syringe 50ml or something to draw out air from the line. I did washed the injection syringe with water soon before the break fluid dissolved the thing. :sad-smiley-058:

Well I use a syringe that come with those ink refill kits for printers. Never had a problem with brake fluid dissolving any of the syringe parts. In fact the syringe was filled with brake fluid by mistake and left in my tool cabinet for couple of years :D but the syringe is still usable.

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