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Cr27 Difficult Start In The Morning After Injector Nozzle Replacement


nano31

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My cr27 was making lot of black smoke. I got the injector nozzle checked and they almost burnt out and replaced the all four with denso.

Engine was fully repaired one and after the repair it had done 100k. Even with the previous black smoke it can be started without any preheating.

After the nozzle replacement I noticed a diesel leak and the pre chamber washers were in bad shape causing diesel leak and replaced them as well.

It is stll difficult to start after 8~10hrs of engine stop (over night).

The battery is very good and I had to crank the engine ~20sec X 4 times, at the last time, engine was coughing out and finally starting once the engine was started it is ok unless it is quit for 8~10hrs.

If I press the pump (in the diesel filter) till it get tight, engine starting is completely ok!

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Some issue occured with the feed circuit while they carried the repair. Diesel flows back to the tank due to some loosen clip or rupture in one of supply tubes. Get them to check or you can check for loosen tubing or possible leaks in the feed circuit and return lines.

As Ferraif50 said, it can be due to an issue in the non-return valve in the hand pump. But since this was developed after the repair, I tend to suspect the feed lines. If you need to check for faulty hand-pump, by-pass the hand pump, and fix the tubing and see whether diesel flows back to the tank or starting delay is there.

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I had a similar issues with my ford.

My model didn't have the hand pump at the fuel filter and it took a few cranks to get the motor running. And the truck would stall out after running a good 100metres or so after driving off

I traced it down to two issues...

One was a vacuum lock. Simple the diesel tank vent was blocked and as the fuel was getting used, air was not filling into the tank to take it's place. When you open the gas cap, you can hear the air getting sucked in. Managed to clean that vent and the vacuum sound problem was resolved. And the truck wouldn't stall out after driving off.

Still the starting problem was there.

So that issue was...

Your fuel filter housing/hand pump unit has a valve. simply when fuel gets filled into the filter this valve makes sure it doesn't get siphoned back to the tank. So next time you start the engine, the filter housing is primed with fuel and injectors get fuel to start the engine.

When the valve eventually fail, fuel filled in the filter gets siphoned back to the tank. So it takes a few cranks or priming via the hand pump to get the motor going.

To my knowledge the only way to fix it is to replaced the manual pump/filter housing unit. You can get a non-jap new unit for around 2000 bucks. A used jap pump will cost the same or at times more.

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I fixed a transparent tube for a filter line but I could not see any air bubbles even after 10hrs! But as I said earlier when I did press manual pump, engine start even without any pre heating!

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I fixed a transparent tube for a filter line but I could not see any air bubbles even after 10hrs! But as I said earlier when I did press manual pump, engine start even without any pre heating!

Try this once, remove fulel lid before start the engine.

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Does anyone know how often we should service a diesel pump, and pressure the injectors on a diesel.

Regarding a 4D56 indirect injection intercooler turbo engine.

The person at the repair shop told that it should be done every 35 000km,

this has done more than 90 000km

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Does anyone know how often we should service a diesel pump, and pressure the injectors on a diesel.

Regarding a 4D56 indirect injection intercooler turbo engine.

The person at the repair shop told that it should be done every 35 000km,

this has done more than 90 000km

40,000km try to download service manual of your vehicle from the internet.

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40,000km try to download service manual of your vehicle from the internet.

What are the things i should be careful about when doing the injector pump service,

Someone in another topic told that it could screw up the vehicle big time.

Is it essential to take it to a big place like D*mo, or shall i let my mechanic dismental it and send it to a injector servicing shop he recommends.

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We repaired the injector pump once in a van (2c engine) and there were vibrations and rattling sounds after that, which could not be solved no matter what (May be the mech screwed up..). After that, if I had to repair a pump again, I'd definitely buy a recon one. Which is around 20K for 2C engines I guess.

My advice is don't try to repair the pump unless you're absolutely sure that there's a issue with the pump. But you should normally check the injectors once every 40,000.

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Thanks every one for help!

I my self replaced the "filter head pump unit" (It is a Korean made one, do not know about the quality) and the problem was solved. Planning to buy used Japanese one leisurely.

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Thanks every one for help!

I my self replaced the "filter head pump unit" (It is a Korean made one, do not know about the quality) and the problem was solved. Planning to buy used Japanese one leisurely.

i too was recommended that option but went for a used jap one off a nissan :)

far easy to find diesel filters for cos the ford diesel filter was not freely available. One gala, two birds! :D

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i too was recommended that option but went for a used jap one off a nissan :)

far easy to find diesel filters for cos the ford diesel filter was not freely available. One gala, two birds! :D

this is not ford or nissan. this is toyota

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this is not ford or nissan. this is toyota

so what? toyota needs some special filters??? I was telling OP about my experience with regards to a used filter/pump unit.

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