2Zz Ge Bogging Problem

[Magnum]

Hello guys,
I am a friend of Afzal Magnum and I am from Bangladesh. Afzal suggested me to discuss my problem here. So here I am. Recently I swaped a 2zz-ge in my Toyota Premio(NZT240) with 6 speed mt(c60 with 1.5 way LSD). The car is running pretty much good, lift is hitting too. But the problem is with lower rpm. It struggles to get rise from lower Rpm. Throttle response is too poor in between 1000 to 3000 rpm. But after that ut is fine. My plugs, air filter(k&N), injectors, Air flow sensor, O2 sensor all are working fine. But cant find the bogging problem still. Can anyone help me out?
N.B. I am using a tuned ecu of Celica. That ecu used to be an ect but as that Celica was converted to 6mt, that ecu was tuned from Malaysia to run with mt and that ecu was running good with 6mt in that Celica. I got that ecu as that Celica is running with blitz stand alone Ecu now.

Edited February 10, 2014 by Magnum

[Rumesh88]

How is the engine beat at low RPM? Does it sound like a tractor? If so, get your VVT OCV filter checked for possible clogging and get it cleaned or replaced.

[Magnum]

Yes! It sounds like tractor!

[Rumesh88]

Yes! It sounds like tractor!

Then go for it. If the filter is stuck use a 2-2.5mm size tapered self-tapping screw on the filter tab to pull it out. If you find oil sludge in VVT OCV filter do the same thing to VVTL OCV filter as well because it is a matter of time before the lift also get affected by sludge. If the sludge is severe then remove the VVT valve to for checking and cleaning for possible sludge build up. Refer au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/31918-diy-servicingchanging-oil-control-valve-ocv-filtersstrainers/ for an illustration

Edited February 10, 2014 by Rumesh88

[Magnum]

I think my vvt ocv is not wired. As that valve is a solenoid it supposed to have a negative/ground and a positive/power. But here I can see there is only ground but no positive/power in the connection.

[Rumesh88]

I think my vvt ocv is not wired. As that valve is a solenoid it supposed to have a negative/ground and a positive/power. But here I can see there is only ground but no positive/power in the connection.

If your OCV is not wired you should get a fault code. How did you check the ground and the voltage? When OCV is working you get a pulsed voltage (Pulse Width Modulated) not just a ground and battery voltage like in the case of a relay for example.

[Magnum]

I just checked with volt meter. Found only ground there and filter is good I just found

[Rumesh88]

I just checked with volt meter. Found only ground there and filter is good I just found

Did you check it while the engine was running? Keep the VVT OCV disconnected and take a test drive. You should get a CEL indication as you go on driving (I do not know the exact criteria how it is detected BTW) for about 1km. If you do not get a CEL, then it is something to do with tuning I believe. If so it may even be disabled in the ECU map. You need to ask this from the previous user of the ECU.

Edited February 10, 2014 by Rumesh88

[Magnum]

I did run my car disconnected that ocv, its same as connected :'(

[Rumesh88]

I did run my car disconnected that ocv, its same as connected :'(

If so and no CEL means, VVTi functionality may have been disabled in the map, or the ECU may be faulty. It cannot be in hard wiring for if VVTi works and VVT OCV is disconnected you should get a CEL. Any idea if the tuning was done on a Dyno. Dyno procedure may require temporary disabling of VVTi but may have been left as it was when burning.

[Magnum]

I just swaped the engine and no dyno is done yet. And from very beginning of swap I am experiencing that bogging problem.

[Magnum]

I just swaped the engine and no dyno is done yet. And from very beginning of swap I am experiencing that bogging problem.

[Rumesh88]

I just swaped the engine and no dyno is done yet. And from very beginning of swap I am experiencing that bogging problem.

I mean use of a dyno for the tune up of Celica. Also there is a possibility of disabling VVTi if the previous car had high cam ("killer cam")profiles. Unless you know these things or you examine the ECU map you cannot come to a conclusion how it happened. Still I think we can safely come to the conclusion that the sluggishness that you experience is due to VVT OCV not operating. Why not get the ECU map checked?

[Magnum]

The guy whoz gonna check it is out of town. So waiting for return of him.

[Rachitha]

I'm not an expert, but had similar problem in my 7AGE 20v, and was sorted after replacing the fuel pump.

My understanding is that VVTL should be an issue only at high rpm. At low rpms anyways OCV is closed.

Just my 2cs.

[Rumesh88]

The guy whoz gonna check it is out of town. So waiting for return of him.

Get the map checked for and see if VVTi is disabled. If you have stock cam and if the VVTi map is also stock you can safely enable it and see if the problem is resolved. Once satisfied with performance, u may go for dyno tune up. If possible keep the binary file with you for future use.

I'm not an expert, but had similar problem in my 7AGE 20v, and was sorted after replacing the fuel pump.

My understanding is that VVTL should be an issue only at high rpm. At low rpms anyways OCV is closed.

Just my 2cs.

VVTL is in fact VVTi+Lift. What you say is correct for lift OCV but in the discussion above we were referring to VVti OCV. Op has indicated that lift OCV kicked in without a problem to deliver power at high revs and hence, the possibility of low fuel pressure was excluded too.

Edited February 11, 2014 by Rumesh88

[Magnum]

Thanks everyone for cooperation. Will post update after 17th instant. As got appointed at 17th.

[Magnum]

Hello here zafar again. Alhamdulillah, my 2zz is ready finally. It was cause of knock sensor and yes had some wiring issues. Thanks again for your advises guys.