Problem - Huyndai Getz

bagUrE · March 26, 2014

The vehicle is Getz 2002, 1300 CC A/T, with 82000+ kms.

The problem is a wierd noise basically.

When the engine is running and gear is in P, N or R, this noise is not there at all.

When the gear is in D,1 or 2, and with foot / hand break is applied, there come the noise, louder.

It is almost similar to a belt screaming. Alternator. AC and PS belts were changed but no improvement. Eventually changed the harmonic balacer as well according to a mechanic; no change at all. Timing belt is also new (changed before this noise issue)

This noise is not there when driving. Only comes when on brakes with gear on D,1 or 2. Turning AC, Headlights on/off makes no change.

Anybody has any idea?

luckey007 · March 26, 2014

Did you check engine mounts? with faulty mounts engine may twist more and a turning part may contact somewhere.

Hoonigan · March 26, 2014

Could it be the clutch? Do you hear the same noise for a moment when the car changes gears?

bagUrE · March 26, 2014

On 3/26/2014 at 9:43 AM, luckey007 said:
Did you check engine mounts? with faulty mounts engine may twist more and a turning part may contact somewhere.

I haven't check them but the engine seems sitting fine when idling. I will check anyway.

On 3/26/2014 at 10:07 AM, Hoonigan said:
Could it be the clutch? Do you hear the same noise for a moment when the car changes gears?

That's something I've never thought of. I do not hear any strange noise while shifting (not yet). Are there any other signs to identify an issue with the clutch or the gearbox?

CNX · March 26, 2014

Check the mounts and connections of the silencer. Had a similar issue and the problem solved with a bit of grease!

Rumesh88 · March 26, 2014

Any idea when ATF was changed last time? Just take out the ATF stick and check the color (should be pinkish-red if newly changed or if brownish/grayish it is time to change your ATF if you do not have previous records) and the smell. If you get a burning smell you may have an issue with your transmission.

Edited March 26, 2014 by Rumesh88

luckey007 · March 27, 2014

On 3/26/2014 at 12:02 PM, bagUrE said:
I haven't check them but the engine seems sitting fine when idling. I will check anyway.
That's something I've never thought of. I do not hear any strange noise while shifting (not yet). Are there any other signs to identify an issue with the clutch or the gearbox?

Engine twists when it has to turn the wheels. acc. to newton's 3rd law .

And I feel something fishy as op sometimes talks about A/T and M/T in other.

bagUrE · March 27, 2014

On 3/26/2014 at 1:29 PM, Rumesh88 said:
Any idea when ATF was changed last time? Just take out the ATF stick and check the color (should be pinkish-red if newly changed or if brownish/grayish it is time to change your ATF if you do not have previous records) and the smell. If you get a burning smell you may have an issue with your transmission.

It is still less than 10000 km since the last oil change; looks and feels OK according to the tests you mentioned.

On 3/27/2014 at 3:38 AM, luckey007 said:
And I feel something fishy as op sometimes talks about A/T and M/T in other.

No. I'm talking about A/T all the time.

FYI:

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/automatic-transmission10.htm

harshansenadhir · March 27, 2014

On 3/26/2014 at 10:07 AM, Hoonigan said:
Could it be the clutch? Do you hear the same noise for a moment when the car changes gears?

this is a vehicle with an autobox. so no dry clutch

On 3/26/2014 at 12:55 PM, CNX said:
Check the mounts and connections of the silencer. Had a similar issue and the problem solved with a bit of grease!

this is exactly what I thought. Noise is not there when the car is

1. idling (no power on the wheels and hence no force on engine mounts)

2. or in reverse gear

but the noise is there in all forward gears, i.e D,1 and 2.

There's a higher probability that an engine mount had failed in such a way that it allows one directional twist of the engine (when in forward gears) and holds stiff when in reverse. (force on the power unit is in a different direction)

First and foremost get the engine and gearbox (power unit) mounts checked especially under a load in both D and R.

Edited March 27, 2014 by harshansenadhir

bagUrE · March 27, 2014

On 3/27/2014 at 6:51 AM, harshansenadhir said:
There's a higher probability that an engine mount had failed in such a way that it allows one directional twist of the engine (when in forward gears) and holds stiff when in reverse. (force on the power unit is in a different direction)
First and foremost get the engine and gearbox (power unit) mounts checked especially under a load in both D and R.

Thanks harshansenadhir and others for the valuable ksuggestions. I will check them out and update.

Rumesh88 · February 16, 2015

Yesterday I was doing diagnosis on an almost stranded Hyundai Getz (owner is a friend but not in the island) and thought of sharing for the record what I observed on this thread with the hope someone might find it useful. When the car was brought to me it was barely drive-able obviously in limp-home mode but without a CEL indication. It was almost impossible to start the car. A quick scan showed a faulty cam position sensor. (A maka bass seemed to have some how disabled the CEL but I did not want to go behind it). The sensor was really dirty with metal filing attracted to the magnet but a clean up did not solve the problem. Leaving that aside I went on to remove the cam cover for there was a oil leak and the egine outer was really messy. While doing this I found that the timing belt was excessively worn out on one edge and damaged with pieces all over. When checked for the timing mark on the crank pulley with that on the cam sprocket, the marks were slightly off (by around two teeth).

Began to replace the timing belt by removing all three belts, water pump pulley, crank pulley and the timing cover. It was then the real problem was discovered. The reverted mounting of the tensioner wheel had become slightly loose and the wheel had become a bit wobbly. Due to this the belt had somehow slipped off by two teeth. Apparently the ECU was monitoring the crank position and cam position both and detected the slippage in timing as a fault of the cam sensor. Once the belt and tensioner wheel was replaced the fault code disappeared and the engine came back to life .

Edit: Please note that I do not own a garage nor that I am professionally engaged in automobile repairs.

Edited February 16, 2015 by Rumesh88