Suzuki swift ZC11S engine misfire

[DKing]

Hi all,

 

I am experiencing an engine misfire with a vibrating effect in my ZC11s (Beetle swift 2005) since last week, I replaced spark plugs and did a EFI tuning, then bass told me to replace of the ignition coil, However the issue is not fixed yet. When the car is in reverse the vibrating effect is more. What should i do [emoji17]

 

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[john cooper]

Hello DKing,

 

Is this indicate "check engine" light at all?

Have you done any scan diagnostic?

Have you use the same gas station to pump the fuel every time or it is different?

 

regards

JC 

[DKing]

Hello DKing,
 
Is this indicate "check engine" light at all?
Have you done any scan diagnostic?
Have you use the same gas station to pump the fuel every time or it is different?
 
regards
JC 

Hi JP,

No, engine light never lit up.
I have not yet done a scan, what do u suggest?
I use the same GS most of the time and this started suddenly.

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[Rumesh88]

Did they clean EGR valve during tune up?

 

[DKing]

Hi Rumesh,
I am not sure about that, however he said he cleaned the fuel injector

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[Rumesh88]

Do you have the same vibration even a fter the engine is fully warmed up? There can be several possibilities from a vacuum leak in intake manifold (EGR, PCV) to faulty MAF, TPS, IACV, injectors, sparkplugs and ignition coils. During to tune up most of these parts must have been tested/cleaned. But sometimes EGR and PCV are simply ignored by mechanics. Weak ignition coils are difficult to test so would have to be replaced if all other things are OK. Do you get a cough like sound from the silencer?

 

[DKing]

Do you have the same vibration even a fter the engine is fully warmed up? There can be several possibilities from a vacuum leak in intake manifold (EGR, PCV) to faulty MAF, TPS, IACV, injectors, sparkplugs and ignition coils. During to tune up most of these parts must have been tested/cleaned. But sometimes EGR and PCV are simply ignored by mechanics. Weak ignition coils are difficult to test so would have to be replaced if all other things are OK. Do you get a cough like sound from the silencer?
 

Yes, the effect is same even after a long drive, there's a cough kind of sound. What do you recomend to do? If you know someone who can fix this around malabe, pls let me know. BTW i replaced one of the ignition coil

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[NeroX]

What octane petrol do you use? Try switching to 95 octane. Might help until you find the real root cause  

[DKing]

What octane petrol do you use? Try switching to 95 octane. Might help until you find the real root cause [emoji6] 

I have been using 92 only, some say switching 92 to 95 is not a good thing, any idea why is that?

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[NeroX]

Agree somewhat! Always go with what the the manufacturer has recommended for your car. Most modern cars have knock sensors which will adjust ignition timing to adjust with whatever fuel or engine condition you have. In steady state conditions like cruising etc this works like a charm but in transient conditions like speeding/accelerating the device cannot react fast to adjust timing fast enough to prevent knocking. Hence using recommended octane fuel translates to less work for the knock sensor -> lesser chance for it to not react in time.

In your situation if the issue is a carbon build-up your compression ratio may have increased (lesser volume, same stroke -> higher compression) hence in a lower rpm/accelerating state your knock sensor cant adjust timing & you might have pre-ignition or knocking. Going to a higher octane would mean it would require a higher compression ratio to self ignite hence prevents self ignition until your spark plug activates. So assuming you have carbon buildup it better option to use higher RON fuel. If it's a new car I wouldn't have recommended this. Plus the risk of using higher RON than the specified is far lesser compared to using lower RON than manufacturer recommended. Give it a shot. Nws if it does work its not a permanent solution just revert to your normal 90 octane once you've fixed the real issue.

[DKing]

Agree somewhat! Always go with what the the manufacturer has recommended for your car. Most modern cars have knock sensors which will adjust ignition timing to adjust with whatever fuel or engine condition you have. In steady state conditions like cruising etc this works like a charm but in transient conditions like speeding/accelerating the device cannot react fast to adjust timing fast enough to prevent knocking. Hence using recommended octane fuel translates to less work for the knock sensor -> lesser chance for it to not react in time.
In your situation if the issue is a carbon build-up your compression ratio may have increased (lesser volume, same stroke -> higher compression) hence in a lower rpm/accelerating state your knock sensor cant adjust timing & you might have pre-ignition or knocking. Going to a higher octane would mean it would require a higher compression ratio to self ignite hence prevents self ignition until your spark plug activates. So assuming you have carbon buildup it better option to use higher RON fuel. If it's a new car I wouldn't have recommended this. Plus the risk of using higher RON than the specified is far lesser compared to using lower RON than manufacturer recommended. Give it a shot. Nws if it does work its not a permanent solution just revert to your normal 90 octane once you've fixed the real issue.

Got it, I'll give it a try. Thank you so much

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[Rumesh88]

8 hours ago, DKing said:

Yes, the effect is same even after a long drive, there's a cough kind of sound. What do you recomend to do? If you know someone who can fix this around malabe, pls let me know. BTW i replaced one of the ignition coil

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When you replaced the coil did you replace it along with the plug wire paired  up with the other plug? Before you replace the ignition coils better if you can get a compression test done (with a simple  hand-held compression meter) just to rule out a compression leak. It sounds more like a engine miss to me so it finally boils down to weak ignition coils, plug wires, or a compression leak. 

[DKing]

Replaced it last week with the plug wire. But i think there are two coils( as per my bass). Today i drove it agressively and noticed power is also lesser than before. Any good garage you know around malabe, kotte or rajagiriya

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[john cooper]

17 hours ago, DKing said:

Hi JP,

No, engine light never lit up.
I have not yet done a scan, what do u suggest?
I use the same GS most of the time and this started suddenly.

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Guess the scan is not that expensive in SL?

@Rumesh88 if PCV or EGR at the end of it's life will that indicate via check engine mate? (may be depend on the model of the car)

regards

JC

[Rumesh88]

3 hours ago, john cooper said:

Guess the scan is not that expensive in SL?

@Rumesh88 if PCV or EGR at the end of it's life will that indicate via check engine mate? (may be depend on the model of the car)

regards

JC

@john cooperNo. It will not show up directly in a scan but one can get a general idea of fuel starvation at idle speed by looking at fuel trim readings when an EGR valve is stuck. (In some engines you have a fault code defined but I donot know what the detection algorithm is) A faulty PCV will not result in any detectable changes in scanned readings. However both these units are easy to remove, inspect, clean, and replace if necessary.

@DKing Yes you have two coils shared between four cylinders. This is why it is important to check/replace the plug wire too. If the associated plug wire is open that could result in a weak spark both cylinders. BTW I am unable to recommend a mechanic in your area I'm afraid.

Edited March 16, 2018 by Rumesh88

[DKing]

[mention=19633]john cooper[/mention]No. It will not show up directly in a scan but one can get a general idea of fuel starvation at idle speed by looking at fuel trim readings when an EGR valve is stuck. (In some engines you have a fault code defined but I donot know what the detection algorithm is) A faulty PCV will not result in any detectable changes in scanned readings. However both these units are easy to remove, inspect, clean, and replace if necessary.
[mention=71912]DKing[/mention] Yes you have two coils shared between four cylinders. This is why it is important to check/replace the plug wire too. If the associated plug wire is open that could result in a weak spark both cylinders. BTW I am unable to recommend a mechanic in your area I'm afraid.

@Rumesh88, @johncooper Thank you for your valuable comments guys.

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[DKing]

Finally I had to change one of the ignition coils and problem was solved, running smoothly as usual. Appericiate all expert support. Cheers

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[john cooper]

11 hours ago, DKing said:

Finally I had to change one of the ignition coils and problem was solved, running smoothly as usual. Appericiate all expert support. Cheers

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Good to see your car back to normal, happy and safe motoring.

regards

JC