Drove 2 Work On Ebrakes Only

[Ripper]

Yep...today...just about an hour ago my brakes gave up one me right in middle of Fort with loads of traffic around... First i could paddle it and get some braking power but after a lil while that also went away

Man it was such a struggle to drive on ebrakes only and because you can't pullover in heavy traffic and security issues had to drive on at snail pace but even still ebrakes just suck... Can't blame it too much cos i did manage to get to office without getting into trouble

Now guys... i was wondering what has gone wrong... I do my weekly checks and somehow i have missed to check the all important brake fluid... And now i noticed that it has gone a little bit lower than the minimum level marker...

But what's puzzling is that why did i completely loose all breaking power because of that. I thought that the Min mark is still a "safe" limit and the manufacturers design it like that allow for idiots like myself who miss checking the fluid levels once in a while

Any ideas guys?

I've sent a office driver to get me new brake oil to fill er up and see what happens

at the moment when the car is stopped...the pedal won't budge at all....the moment i start it....it floor without any resistance... fricking scary

And the car is a Sprinter...

[Arc Angel]

well, worn liners in the drums cause the oil to drain pretty fast. But seening as you've got a stiff pedal when the engine is off, could be an issue with your brake pump.

The washers (i think thats how you spell it) could be faulty and hence laeking oil and cuasing air bubles to get in to your brake line.

[Ripper]

well, worn liners in the drums cause the oil to drain pretty fast. But seening as you've got a stiff pedal when the engine is off, could be an issue with your brake pump.

The washers (i think thats how you spell it) could be faulty and hence laeking oil and cuasing air bubles to get in to your brake line.

Thanks Machan...BTW...Nice sign off quote

called up a friend at Toyota... they think it's an oil leak since i didn't hear any squeeks from drums/pads and did have good braking power until today...

But according to him the Pedal being stiff while the engine is off is normal. Funny thing is that i can' remember whether it was like that before or if it's only happening now.

My friend at toyota said to top up the oil and keep pedaling to see if the oil level goes down since the leak might not be visible at early stages etc.

So awaiting my new pack of oil to do all these things

Today is very busy day for me and scooting off to get the brakes fixed is next impossible

If things don't work out with a simple re-fill..have to take her home tonight with continious top-ups on the way when traffic dies down and attend to it tomorrow

TL is just a hoot away for me from home

If the pump is F'd... there goes my self-entertainment budget for the season

[Arc Angel]

Thanks Machan...BTW...Nice sign off quote

thanks

If the pump is F'd... there goes my self-entertainment budget for the season

fishing is no good in the rain anyway

[Ripper]

thanks

fishing is no good in the rain anyway

Weather will get better machan It's usually absolutely brilliant in december... Especially early mornings few miles out into the sea and where you see SL just as thin deep blue line and lotsa mist simple breath taking

[thushara_g]

Thanks Machan...BTW...Nice sign off quote

If things don't work out with a simple re-fill..have to take her home tonight with continious top-ups on the way when traffic dies down and attend to it tomorrow

According to your description it sounds like a severe leak. Can be a ruptured brake line. If it is the case re-filling and driving will be unsafe. You can loose entire volume of fluid With few peddle strokes depending on the magnitude of the leak.

[Ripper]

According to your description it sounds like a severe leak. Can be a ruptured brake line. If it is the case re-filling and driving will be unsafe. You can loose entire volume of fluid With few peddle strokes depending on the magnitude of the leak.

yeah man... my driver boy is yet to get back with new brake oil... keeping my fingers crossed that the oil won't leak out too fast with a few pedal downs... I also don't want to take a chance on our roads but even towing is out because of this damn break issue unless i get a tow truck...

gotta wait and see how this works out...

I'm also into thinking that i do have a severe leak somewhere since i did loose most of the breaking power pretty fast......aaaargh

[Arc Angel]

yeah man... my driver boy is yet to get back with new brake oil... keeping my fingers crossed that the oil won't leak out too fast with a few pedal downs... I also don't want to take a chance on our roads but even towing is out because of this damn break issue unless i get a tow truck...

gotta wait and see how this works out...

I'm also into thinking that i do have a severe leak somewhere since i did loose most of the breaking power pretty fast......aaaargh

safest option is head straight to TL or your garage with out risking another day...

[thushara_g]

yeah man... my driver boy is yet to get back with new brake oil... keeping my fingers crossed that the oil won't leak out too fast with a few pedal downs... I also don't want to take a chance on our roads but even towing is out because of this damn break issue unless i get a tow truck...

gotta wait and see how this works out...

I'm also into thinking that i do have a severe leak somewhere since i did loose most of the breaking power pretty fast......aaaargh

You may be able to spot the leak if its large enough. Park the car at a dry paved spot and try brakes with the engine running. Then move the car and see for any fluid spots on ground and try locating general area of leak. If you have drums, wheel cylinders inside the drums can develop leaks too.

[Ripper]

You may be able to spot the leak if its large enough. Park the car at a dry paved spot and try brakes with the engine running. Then move the car and see for any fluid spots on ground and try locating general area of leak. If you have drums, wheel cylinders inside the drums can develop leaks too.

Guys

Spotted the leak

seems to be one mother of a leak since the moment i put new oil in i can droplets of it streaming down...

The leak is in my passenger side front wheel. Can't see exactly where it is but it's close to where the rubber brake hose connects to the wheel brake housing thing... I"m assuming either the tube connecting area has given up or some brake washers in the caliper parts... The wheels themselves seems to be clean of any oil thought the wheel arches show splash "damage"

My front brakes disks...hope the cylinders are not F'd...

Trying to get a mechanic guy to check it out and fix it in office itself if that's possible... Even with the oil top-up there's absolutely no resistance in the pedal...it just completely floors down... The brake lines must be completely drained out...

My office is in R.A. de mel Mw...so getting out of here without brakes to go anywhere is a huge challenge

aaaaaaaaaaaaaargh!!!!!!!!

[MrCat]

No offense to you Ripper.. But i wonder whether that guy who was always talkin about "unbreakable" Toyotas has seen this.. ..

And good luck with ya repair..

Edited November 20, 2007 by MrCat

[Ripper]

safest option is head straight to TL or your garage with out risking another day...

he he... forget about risking another day machan...taking it out of the parking lot is also not the safest option now

damn it...

[Ripper]

No offense to you Ripper.. But i wonder whether that guy who was always talkin about "unbreakable" Toyotas has seen this.. ..

And good luck with ya repair..

he he... nothing is "unbreakable" machan... there is no such thing

running repairs will be there for any vehicle.... Especially when mine's a 93 model sprinter

BTW... i also never liked that dude's attitude and lack of respect for other brands

[The Don]

The reason why there is no resistance is probably because your brake lines are now full of air !!! not liquid, as liquid has been pushed out air has been pulled in to replace it,

this should not be a difficult or time consuming repair, but if its the brake washers, might as well get a full break repair kit for your car and replace the washers all round and if necessary the master cylinder as well, provided its not too expensive. Its a preventative not a necessary repair, cos the hassle of break failure in the middle of the road is not worth it, and if one set of washers are now worn out its possible the others are not too far away.

If its the hose I would replace the hose and forget about it

Exactly the same thing has happened to me, and this time in an indestructible Mazda, but in my case the problem was rear break washers

I personally think this kind of problem would be fixed in future cars as you should be able to detect loss of pressure on one of the wheels at the brake force distributor, and just shut down the leaking line, and warn the driver to get the problem sorted, while still maintaining some breaking capability, so you do not go and hit a lamp post !!

[Ripper]

The reason why there is no resistance is probably because your brake lines are now full of air !!! not liquid, as liquid has been pushed out air has been pulled in to replace it,

this should not be a difficult or time consuming repair, but if its the brake washers, might as well get a full break repair kit for your car and replace the washers all round and if necessary the master cylinder as well, provided its not too expensive. Its a preventative not a necessary repair, cos the hassle of break failure in the middle of the road is not worth it, and if one set of washers are now worn out its possible the others are not too far away.

If its the hose I would replace the hose and forget about it

Exactly the same thing has happened to me, and this time in an indestructible Mazda, but in my case the problem was rear break washers

I personally think this kind of problem would be fixed in future cars as you should be able to detect loss of pressure on one of the wheels at the brake force distributor, and just shut down the leaking line, and warn the driver to get the problem sorted, while still maintaining some breaking capability, so you do not go and hit a lamp post !!

Thanks Don

I'm stuck today cos had a client meeting and the usual chaos associated with it so had no time attend to the car... Desperately trying to sort out a mechanic fellow to at least jerry-rig it to be able to make the journey to a garage if the repair can't be done in ma office. But that also seems to be not working as yet cos very difficult to get a bugger to come and fix things on site...

Will have wait and see my options. Either i wait till traffic dies and crawl my way back home and take that chance or leave it in office today and get a flat bed truck or whatever to load it up and take it for repairs...

Like you said... I'm gonna get the whole bloody breaking system checked up and see what needs replacing etc. Don't wanna get stuck out of colombo in middle of the night or summin with no bloody brakes... Imagine your brakes failing in hill country????

Like you said i'm sure now all the lines are full of air and that's why even the new oil doesn't seems to be going anywhere...i'll have to open the bleed screws and get the system flowing again but i'm sure that's a part f the whole repair process...

The biggest hitch is taking the damn thing to a garage

[Ripper]

The reason why there is no resistance is probably because your brake lines are now full of air !!! not liquid, as liquid has been pushed out air has been pulled in to replace it,

this should not be a difficult or time consuming repair, but if its the brake washers, might as well get a full break repair kit for your car and replace the washers all round and if necessary the master cylinder as well, provided its not too expensive. Its a preventative not a necessary repair, cos the hassle of break failure in the middle of the road is not worth it, and if one set of washers are now worn out its possible the others are not too far away.

If its the hose I would replace the hose and forget about it

Exactly the same thing has happened to me, and this time in an indestructible Mazda, but in my case the problem was rear break washers

I personally think this kind of problem would be fixed in future cars as you should be able to detect loss of pressure on one of the wheels at the brake force distributor, and just shut down the leaking line, and warn the driver to get the problem sorted, while still maintaining some breaking capability, so you do not go and hit a lamp post !!

One more thing... i was also wondering why there isn't a system where you can stop the fluid flow to the leaking wheel so that at least the other 3 will be operation instead going for full failure.

That's the fisr thing i asked one of ma buddies at work who's better with cars than i am to see if there was way to do this...

I've seen on TV that aircraft hydraulic systems have something where you can close valves to avoid catastrophic fluid failure and retain certain level of control... Wonder why they didn't do that for cars safety reasons? cost factor?

[The Don]

I think its technology, because mechanically the system is made so that when pressure drops in one part of the line, brake fluid rushes in from the reservoir to fill the void, and its normal to loose some fluid through evaporation and very small leaks. I think there is a way you can manually shut down one of the break lines if that one is leaking, but maybe I am wrong, and what I am talking about is not a system installed in a car.

Is your normal mechanic not willing to come and take a look at office. You can always try calling Wasantha and persuade him to come have a look, if he isn't too busy. At least they can jig it up so it will survive the journey to the garrage where a proper repair can be completed.

how bad is the damage to panels from break fluid ? you will need to get that area repainted, because break oil corrodes like nothing else in the planet !!!

[Ripper]

I think its technology, because mechanically the system is made so that when pressure drops in one part of the line, brake fluid rushes in from the reservoir to fill the void, and its normal to loose some fluid through evaporation and very small leaks. I think there is a way you can manually shut down one of the break lines if that one is leaking, but maybe I am wrong, and what I am talking about is not a system installed in a car.

Is your normal mechanic not willing to come and take a look at office. You can always try calling Wasantha and persuade him to come have a look, if he isn't too busy. At least they can jig it up so it will survive the journey to the garrage where a proper repair can be completed.

how bad is the damage to panels from break fluid ? you will need to get that area repainted, because break oil corrodes like nothing else in the planet !!!

damn it...i completely forgot about the whole corrosion thing

since i was not speeding too much at the time the oil hasn't come into contact with exterior body panels... plus the car has a healthy coat of dust/dirt/mud etc after not going for a power washing so hopefully that would've helped to tame the brake fluid...

But i saw some fluid on the rack and parts of the wheel and surrounding areas.... the wheel well is also coated with dirt so i'm sure that's safe too...

I'll ask my mechanic to check it out nevertheless...

One of my office colleagues father owns a garage and he's a classic car enthusiast etc... I'm gonna crawl on first gear to his place tonight once the traffic dies down and leave the car there for him to sort it out tomorrow morning... Over the phone he told me that most probably it's a minor minor issue... But i'm having such a bad luck phase so not expecting too much right now

My initial idea was also try to take it to Wasantha cos i thought when i top up the fluid i will get at least some braking power... Since that didn't happen making the journey to Dematagoda is way off without brakes... And i didn't know he make site visits...

And speaking about jerry-rigging... my friends father also said you can remove the rubber brake hose of the faulty wheel...plug the open hose end with a ball bearing or summin...bleed the braking system and add new oil and you get brakes for the rest of the 3 wheels...

wish i knew how to do that

[The Don]

damn it...i completely forgot about the whole corrosion thing

since i was not speeding too much at the time the oil hasn't come into contact with exterior body panels... plus the car has a healthy coat of dust/dirt/mud etc after not going for a power washing so hopefully that would've helped to tame the brake fluid...

But i saw some fluid on the rack and parts of the wheel and surrounding areas.... the wheel well is also coated with dirt so i'm sure that's safe too...

I'll ask my mechanic to check it out nevertheless...

One of my office colleagues father owns a garage and he's a classic car enthusiast etc... I'm gonna crawl on first gear to his place tonight once the traffic dies down and leave the car there for him to sort it out tomorrow morning... Over the phone he told me that most probably it's a minor minor issue... But i'm having such a bad luck phase so not expecting too much right now

My initial idea was also try to take it to Wasantha cos i thought when i top up the fluid i will get at least some braking power... Since that didn't happen making the journey to Dematagoda is way off without brakes... And i didn't know he make site visits...

And speaking about jerry-rigging... my friends father also said you can remove the rubber brake hose of the faulty wheel...plug the open hose end with a ball bearing or summin...bleed the braking system and add new oil and you get brakes for the rest of the 3 wheels...

wish i knew how to do that

Thats the great thing about SL, I don't think he or anybody else is in the business of site visits, but I am sure they would oblige in the case of an emergency such as yours,

Yes those dust coats do come in handy, but do get the whole car pressure washed after the brakes are repaired since any remaining break fluid might cause damage to metal work. Once a bottle of brake fluid leaked while it was inside a storage compartment of the door of my car, and it literally peeled the paint off the underside of the door. I drained the door thoroughly, put a bit of grease on it for protection (the metal was totally exposed) and scheduled a paint job with the local paint dude.

Well its probably too late now as there isn't any light, but you might be able to figure out how to take the hose off, though finding something to plug it with might prove a bigger challenge. Also it might not hold for the length of the journey and plus you also have a problem of air in the break lines, which needs they need to be bled before you will get any breaking power.

Good luck on your journey to the garage.

[maithri]

Hi, Most cars since the 80's have dual circuit brakes to give you a little more safety to prevent total brake failure as soon as a leak happens-that's how you first stopped! Your car will have disc brakes at the front which are operated by a hydraulic caliper. This gets the brake fluid(OIL as you call it) under extreme pressure through the brake hose and the metal pipes from the brake master cylinder which is connected to the brake pedal through the brake servo( a round biscuit tin like cylinder). It appears you have a leak at the caliper end of the brake hose or at the caliper itself. If it is the hose replace it and check all the other hoses in the brake system of the car- do this by looking for cracks in the rubber outer as well as for bulges or bumps which will show up easier if you start the engine and get someone else to press the brake pedal hard. If you see a bulge stop the pressure and replace the hose immidiatly as it's about to burst.

Brake fluid spillage will cause paint to loosen and peel off causing corrosion. If possible wash with plenty of water as soon as possible this is the most effective way to neutralise brake fluid-I do it almost every time me or any of my staff work on brake or clutch hydraulics. It's far better than any chemical and cleaner!

[Ripper]

Hi, Most cars since the 80's have dual circuit brakes to give you a little more safety to prevent total brake failure as soon as a leak happens-that's how you first stopped! Your car will have disc brakes at the front which are operated by a hydraulic caliper. This gets the brake fluid(OIL as you call it) under extreme pressure through the brake hose and the metal pipes from the brake master cylinder which is connected to the brake pedal through the brake servo( a round biscuit tin like cylinder). It appears you have a leak at the caliper end of the brake hose or at the caliper itself. If it is the hose replace it and check all the other hoses in the brake system of the car- do this by looking for cracks in the rubber outer as well as for bulges or bumps which will show up easier if you start the engine and get someone else to press the brake pedal hard. If you see a bulge stop the pressure and replace the hose immidiatly as it's about to burst.

Brake fluid spillage will cause paint to loosen and peel off causing corrosion. If possible wash with plenty of water as soon as possible this is the most effective way to neutralise brake fluid-I do it almost every time me or any of my staff work on brake or clutch hydraulics. It's far better than any chemical and cleaner!

thanks guys for all the info

Managed to take it to a friends place last night so her father's garage fellows can attend to it... I've asked him to check the entire system and see what needs to be replaced etc... And check the corrosion issue too...

The good thing was that i had to drive in the rain so most probably the areas the fluid spilled on might've got a semi-pressure wash

I'll get it properly washed asap anyways The car is filthy after traversing in our horrible roads since i have travel daily from wattala and the roads are just absolutely 4x4 stuff

Apparently you can remove the brake hose and plug the open end of it with a ball bearing...but then again you will have to bleed it etc etc which sounds like a bit of a PIA... Gotta get the garage dudes to teach me how to do this in case i get stuck far far away from any garage

Thanks again guys for taking the time and effort to respond May you will all have a healthy brakeng system for doing this great deed

cheers

Ripper

[Arc Angel]

thanks guys for all the info

Managed to take it to a friends place last night so her father's garage fellows can attend to it... I've asked him to check the entire system and see what needs to be replaced etc... And check the corrosion issue too...

The good thing was that i had to drive in the rain so most probably the areas the fluid spilled on might've got a semi-pressure wash

I'll get it properly washed asap anyways The car is filthy after traversing in our horrible roads since i have travel daily from wattala and the roads are just absolutely 4x4 stuff

Apparently you can remove the brake hose and plug the open end of it with a ball bearing...but then again you will have to bleed it etc etc which sounds like a bit of a PIA... Gotta get the garage dudes to teach me how to do this in case i get stuck far far away from any garage

Thanks again guys for taking the time and effort to respond May you will all have a healthy brakeng system for doing this great deed

cheers

Ripper

keep us posted bro... So sounds like you'll be nabbing a few fish after all

[Ripper]

keep us posted bro... So sounds like you'll be nabbing a few fish after all

According to latest reports...i've ruptured one of brake lines and that's it

The rubber brake hose had called it quits... I've asked my guy to do a thorough check to see if anything else needs attention while the car sits at the garage It's such a luxury when you can trust the garage guys

Arc_Angel... yeah man i thought there goes my chance to do some offshore patrolling for the finned kind

seems like i won't be busting too much of dough to fix this

[The Don]

According to latest reports...i've ruptured one of brake lines and that's it

The rubber brake hose had called it quits... I've asked my guy to do a thorough check to see if anything else needs attention while the car sits at the garage It's such a luxury when you can trust the garage guys

Arc_Angel... yeah man i thought there goes my chance to do some offshore patrolling for the finned kind

seems like i won't be busting too much of dough to fix this

Glad to hear, you'll get it sorted out without too big a hole in your pocket. The good thing is, this probably means the brake fluid will get replaced, which is something you are supposed to do every couple of years but few actually do it. The result is spongy brakes after a while.

I wonder if they sell steel braided brake hoses in SL, not that you need them for road use, just curious

[Ripper]

Glad to hear, you'll get it sorted out without too big a hole in your pocket. The good thing is, this probably means the brake fluid will get replaced, which is something you are supposed to do every couple of years but few actually do it. The result is spongy brakes after a while.

I wonder if they sell steel braided brake hoses in SL, not that you need them for road use, just curious

that's true... i do change my brake fluids on my bike once a year with irrespective of usage... I bought a manual for it and DIY stuff were pretty easy with pics etc guiding you how to do it... Taking the car to a garage etc is the only that keeps me from doing these things...

Must learn to do these little jobs myself... It'll be lot more fun too

What do you mean by spongy brakes???

Will the fluid take a while to settle in? like a break-in period and i won't be able to have 100% braking power?

damn that sucks...

And about braided hoses...I've seen hardware shops carrying braided air hoses etc...and since you get braided hydraulic hoses etc for heavy machinery...i'm assuming they will have for car brakes as well... Just guess work

[Arc Angel]

I wonder if they sell steel braided brake hoses in SL, not that you need them for road use, just curious

are they more reliable?