Break Problem

[monty]

Hi Guys,

The front left alloy of my car gets heated than normal compared to the right one. This is quite evident specially when the frequency in which the breaks are used is high like after driving through traffic for a while. It does not go up to a stage where I end up with break binding. But I've been experincing this for some time and yet to find the exact cause although I've tried a few things as per comments from a mehcanic. Once I got the break calipers cleaned but that did not solve the problem. Now I'm thinking of having the break hose replaced together with the break washers as per the mechs instructions.

What could this possibly be? Can it be something wrong with the master cylinder or break pads instead?

Thanks Guys !

monty

[Watchman]

you are probably at an early stage of brake binding.... it binds enough to heat up but not enough to make too much noise or slow you down... yes best bet is to check the brake cylinders.. How old is the car, or when was the last time you did a brake washer replacement?

[Twin Turbo]

the heating is caused by excess friction caused by possible binding. Jack up both wheels and turn ,check for resistance. (could be a bit difficult if your 's is a front driver.

Your mechanic is doing on a good method of diagnosis. Replace the caliper(if having Disks) repair kits (paying particular attention to the caliper pins) along with the break hoses and bleed the systecompletely m with new brake fluid. it's a good precaution to check the master cylinder washers ,if replacing, do so complete with the pistons(repair kit)

basically the fluid should freely flow when you pump the brake pedal with the hose disconnected at the wheel.

[monty]

  Twin Turbo said:

the heating is caused by excess friction caused by possible binding. Jack up both wheels and turn ,check for resistance. (could be a bit difficult if your 's is a front driver.

Your mechanic is doing on a good method of diagnosis. Replace the caliper(if having Disks) repair kits (paying particular attention to the caliper pins) along with the break hoses and bleed the systecompletely m with new brake fluid. it's a good precaution to check the master cylinder washers ,if replacing, do so complete with the pistons(repair kit)

basically the fluid should freely flow when you pump the brake pedal with the hose disconnected at the wheel.

Thanks Twin Turbo. Helps a lot. I will check on the points you mentioned.

monty

[monty]

  Dilesh said:

you are probably at an early stage of brake binding.... it binds enough to heat up but not enough to make too much noise or slow you down... yes best bet is to check the brake cylinders.. How old is the car, or when was the last time you did a brake washer replacement?

Thanks Dilesh. The car is a 96 EK3 and I'm not sure when the washers were changed last as I haven't replaced them for the past year since I bought it. I'll check on the washers.

monty

[Watchman]

  monty said:

Thanks Dilesh. The car is a 96 EK3 and I'm not sure when the washers were changed last as I haven't replaced them for the past year since I bought it. I'll check on the washers.

monty

since the car is a relatively new one start small, like TT said first jack up the car and rotate the wheels... what TT said pretty much covers the basics and the most common issues, unless its some extreme rare case problem you have..