MrCat

L.O.L..!

If you are concerned about stuff getting sprayed on seats, go to a place where they would use an upholstery/carpet cleaning machine. The machine use water + mild liquid detergent + some anti-forming agent, no special chemicals as such. You can even ask them what detergent they use. The machine definitely works better on the fabric (as opposed to spraying detergent and wiping with a cloth) because it sprays and vacuum suck the liquid back, leaving no residue. The fabric will be dry in a couple of hours.

Made me literally LOL, but I get the point. Time to shop for a new pair of denims mate..! Stick to a pre-washed item, preferably a branded garment, and the 2013 Premio seats will remain beige..

I`ll take that freaking wagon please...!

…..Finally got around to sort out suspension stuff as well (at 320,413km`s on the clock). Wanted to get rid of all the old rubber bushes underneath and replace with Polyurethane stuff. Got down U.K made ‘Polybush’ brand, in the ‘comfort’ grade. Apparently the ‘comfort’ range is a softer set-up allowing for a softer ride and better articulation. They`ve also got a stiffer ‘performance’ range for road/highway applications and mid level ‘dynamic’ range as well. I opted for the softer bushes to preserve ride quality and also to reduce the risk of stressing other suspension components with hard bushes. Here`s the list that went in. What`s left to do are the Panhard rod bushes and shock-absorber bushes. I`ve got them in stock, but didn't put them in since I am waiting to put in an adjustable panhard rod and replace all four shock-absorbers anyway. Front radius arm bushes (chassis mounting + diff mounting) – 6 in total Front anti roll bar (sway bar) bushes (chassis + links) - 6 in total Rear anti roll bar (sway bar) bushes (chassis + links) – 6 in total Rear trailing arm bushes (chassis mounting + diff mounting) – 4 in total Rear Suspension A Frame bushes – 2 in total The following components also went in: Complete suspension bolt kit Rear Suspension A Frame Ball Joint After 15 years of abuse the springs where shagged at all four corners of the car, especially the front pair. Opted to replace with “King” springs, an Aussy made brand. These are supposed to give an approximate 2 inch lift from standard ride height. Here are the part numbers: Front: KRFR-01, Rear: KRRR-04 Took ride height measurements as well, from ground to wheel arch of fender: Before: Front left : 30.8, Front right: 30.5, Rear Left: 31.75, Rear right: 31.6 After: Front left : 32.5, Front right: 32.4, Rear Left: 33.75, Rear right: 33.75 So the rear is level, spot on. Front leaning a bit to the right, probably because of all the steering components lying on that side (but was it 0.1 inches off when it was new? I am not sure). Before and after height pics (up to fender), front left hand side: Before and after height pics (up to fender), rear left hand side: Here`s one of the new springs and sway bar bushes in place at the rear: A "Tough Dog" unit replaced the original steering dampener too. The bigger bore size of the heavy duty unit is visible here:

Thanks machan..!

Hello All, Just wanted to write up on what I’ve replaced/fixed or improved on the Landy over the last few months, in my quest to achieve a Land Rover which is bone dry underneath. Come to think of it, I doubt whether that’s achievable, even if I send it back to the Solihull factory which gave birth to it . But anyway, I know that I`m not getting stranded in this Landy. Bit of a list of what got done and when: Around 310,000 km – Replaced two air conditioner thermo fans and relay. The whole lot was bust, only realized that the fans were not working in summer. At 314,722km – Replaced brake vacuum pump. I`ve got the old pump as a spare now I think it was the gasket that was bust At 317,651km – The power steering box was weeping a bit ever since I got the car, so a brand new unit went in, together with all the high and low pressure hoses. I replaced the engine oil cooler hoses at the same time as well (they`ve got a metal pipe to rubber hose join, which by design, leaks when old). Look, steering box no leak anymore : And here`s the old leaky bugger. This is the original unit, so should be as good as new if fixed with a repair kit. Will give it a go later on:

Hello All, It`s been a while, thought I’ll start updating this thread again before I lose track of what went in to the Disco. A recent addition was a pair of LED driving lights. These are 18W each (6x3) in flood beam pattern. I had trouble seeing the two edges below headlights when 4WD`ving at night. So this is a good solution. Found a couple of extra connections off the parking circuit already wired up to both headlights, so wiring it up was easy. Puts out a decent amount of light output for a little slim package:

Yeah man, this is the mother of all twin turbo set ups where one snail sits on top of the other sort of like the primary`s humping the secondary..! But anyway.. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_N47

Am I seeing two different shades on bumper and body? Guess the final coat is not applied on the bumper?

I am guessing you will be using the power adapter (e.g. 240v charger with a usb port) plugged in to the inverter to charge the tablet PC? If so, it won’t be an issue since the charger has got some sort of a voltage regulator inside it anyway. Modified sine wave doesn’t necessarily mean that it`ll give you voltage spikes, it`s just not ‘cleaner’ Alternative Current that fan motors, CFL bulb circuitry, etc.. doesn't really like. This is a highly inefficient method to charge a phone though..! (DC > AC > DC)

Been following this thread from day 1, though I’m not a frequent commenter. I think it`s about to time to say “Bravo..!” mate. Good stuff. As an ex owner of a rev happy Honda 4 banger, it`s a pleasure to see the B18 sing (oh well, at least clear the throat for the moment..). Come to think that these types of motors will never come out of any production line again, makes me want to have one. Again. Let her run in, and then do up a video at full throttle eh?

Just to add, the original “Series 3” and the “Discovery 3” came out in Diesel/Petrol variants and the Disco 3 with Auto/Manual gearbox. Specify which variant you are looking at as well.

Hyundai Tuscani/Tiburon : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hyundai_Tiburon

Good stuff mate. I can never recollect seeing one of those on the road over here. Might have seen a few at car shows though. Slightly O.T, what`s the rust proofing thingy you`ve mentioned? I`m cleaning up some rust on the floorboard in my car, don't know of a proper moisture resistant rust proofing product to use (i just apply rust converter + anti corrosive paint for the moment).

My Discovery has done 312k now and ticking along fine. This is not in SL roads though. Considering the fact that it had a number of minor niggles + oil leaks when I got it, I don’t think the engine was ever overhauled or touched. I only replaced the big end bearing at the 300tdi, and the old lump has still got plenty life left. The gear box was busted and replaced however. This, together with the sorry state of rear suspension bushes, tells me that the old girl probably has done a lot of towing in the past. I intend to hit half a million km`s without an engine rebuild, will see how it goes. Hopefully the head gasket wont give up.!

+1, I recon the franchise has lost it`s "Street Cred" everyone`s grown up and into more serious shit now.. Street racing ricer times were much fun..! Turning out to be more like Transporter/Italian Job/James Bond...

Oh ok, fair enough. If it`s a must, why not hook up a small LED strip to the parking circuit? you wont be messing around with factory wiring then, can always remove the thing if required.

You mean to say you want both "winkers" to light up constantly, in bright yellow, when driving around? Man, that`ll be like wearing a couple of earrings with LED`s and walking around.

Don, it appears that the floor board is still quite strong because most of the damage is at the top left hand corner (I had to cut away about 6 inch X 4 inch). The area where one would step on is still intact and not in a state that it would crumble down (sure don't want to risk the wife going missing all of a sudden while humming along in a highway ). That` why i thought of attempting a temporary repair Other thing is, these are not available pre-fab over here, so have to get a couple of floor boards custom made and then welded in. All up about a 1000 dollar job which i would have spend on a nice set of Blisteins`s for the suspension revamp. hmm.. priorities.. priorities..

Hello All, So I came across a rust issue with the Disco sometime back, this is at the front floorboard, both passenger and driver’s sides. Just unfortunate really, the A/C drain pipe has got blocked from underneath the car (with a decade worth of mud and sand I guess) and it’s been leaking in to the foot well. The factory noise insulator mat is made out of some spongy material about ½ inch think, so it has helped to retain the moisture in. I pulled out all the trim and cut away the crap carpet underlay a couple of months ago, finally got some time to clean up the mess last Sunday. Here`s the damage which became evident after some cleaning. This is on the passenger side though, the driver’s side isn’t that bad: I scraped all the rust and removed most of the rotten metal from the floor board. Treated with some rust converter as well: So im thinking of fixing this up temporary, should be good enough if I’m able to get a couple of years out of the fix. Welding is not a possibility since I don’t know how to, and I don’t think it’s worth all the hassle for a temporary fix either. Got a few options in mind: Use a fibre kit and some stainless steel mesh to cover up the holes – not sure whether moisture would creep inside the fibreglass layer and cause the rest of the metal to rust away soon though Pop revert some metal plates in to place Use a metal epoxy like ‘JB Weld’ to patch up with sheets of metal Any thoughts on a better solution guys? Anybody who has attempted a repair like this without getting welding involved?

What the heck? Jaguar and Land Rover within first 10..!! That`s unheard in any reliability survey..! Perhaps the Indians are doing it right?

Holy f***k..!! We should all look in to saving up at least one old beauty like this from going to the grave in our lifetime.. not just a lancer, any old real motor car with no freaking push start, CVT, and all that jazz..!

Good stuff, the RRC seems to be in pretty good nick ..! Yah, I recon don’t go diesel unless it`s a daily runner. 4.6 would be awesome with all that grunt and noise. My Disco is in Oz mate, WA.

Hey Guys, I was away on holiday so returned to A/L after a while. Yeah, I didn’t start it so the old lump had no issues at all. A work shop just pumped the fuel out and refilled, I didn’t bother getting the system flushed either. About a 350 dollar exercise all up, including fuel costs and disposal costs though. Good to see a RRC owner on the forum fonfe, got pics? Link to a forum thread? BTW, the 300tdi is getting its oil sump gasket done tomorrow, hopefully will help the old girl to run somewhat ‘dry’ underneath. I am getting ready for a suspension revamp as well, got down each and every bush in Polyurethane plus the bolt kit, just waiting for some extra dough to dish out on springs and shocks.