ravisam

Have you fixed one? can you please tell me that it saves fuel or not!!!!!!

Hi Mates, Is any one of you using nano technology. Please inform me the advantages & disadvantages. I am interested in fixing. I thought of going for the guy who is advertising in TV (Sw***aw*h**i) easy TV.

My advise is not to do it. Newer convert things which does not come from manufacturers. My story is like this; In 1998 I purchased unregistered Nissan vanette model vujc 22 manual steering. After lots of serching I found this vehicle is immaculate except the manual steering and at the time convert cost was Rs 22000/=. But after convertion although the parts are genuine they connect the rack, pump and reservoir with some awailable tubes. Because there are no places that we can burchase the original connecting tubes. Within one week problem started ther was continuous loss of power steering fluid. What happens is, at higher speeds oils spill off from the reservoir. So until after around 5 years I was using that with gallons of fluid no one could repair it. But I found the problem Nissan had introduced a nipple inside the pipe line so that it reduces the pressure of return oil to reservoir. But I coud not find the reason for frequent replacement of power steering pumps. After selling that van I purchased original power steering van of the same model. With that no problem at all.

Dear mate, Refer following http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible.html http://www.1010tires.com/tiresizecalculator.asp So before deciding your tyre sizes calculate your appropriate profile with the calculator. Increase in the diameter may cause break failure. If we refer 195/60 60is the percentage of wall height from 195, So the wall height is not the same of 195/60 and 205/60. 60 is called profile when we go for low profile tyre cost increases.

I bought 195/60r15 GT super Tyre @8800/= . if we compare tyre cost per KM GT is the cheapest, and its is a less trouble tyre.

you can check through a radiator pressure test that your gasket or engine cracked. Running with a damage gasket / head is not advisable as, damaged gasket can fill any of 4 cylinders with water or oil. And that will cause a hydraulic lock in the specific cylinder causing connecting rod bending, damages to valves, rocker arms, cam shaft, etc, etc. Gasket replacement will be a job around 10k-20k. But, if your head cracked you have to do a smoke test and if it is so need a replacement, can not estimate the cost. But the worst side you can replace an engine. It will cost around 130k-150k.

Is it original Diesel or converted? I heared as the petrol one does 7-8km/l and the engine also does not last long. So when engine repair comes, they replace it with Japanese diesel engine.

Always toyota's are the number 1 AD wagon's are the cheapest in nissan range Rating; 3 1 (FB14 is not good as FB13) 2

The ATF oil level rod indicates what type of oil you should use. Try to replace oil in a metod that cleanes your filter. Othervise ATF pump will starve if filter is not cleaned.

I had a toyota LN96 (Made in 1985) around 10years back. The break system was a single line meaning one pipe coming out of the brake pump and with a T joint it distributes to front and rear. I bought a used booster and pump od same size from a used shop and replaced. The new pump contained two lines and I transformed the available pipes of cab in to two lines. The brakes were perfect after that.

It can also be a crack in the head (the worse case), But compared to new engines theses parts are not that expensive.

[quote name='virensti' date='Aug 11 2009, 02:31 PM' post='101555' hey guys, we also got an exide battery for our car last october. it was about 7k (more i think) its an accid one. and so far its not been that great. its still under warrenty but its started to get abit low on performance now. the lights are dim now (and get brighter when you rev up) etc. we've been checking the acid water quite regularly too. anyway i got a discount voucher ( ) for a "Lucas" battery. I've got 30% off on a "Polypropylene" battery or 20% off on a "hard rubber" battery. The voucher expires on the 31st of dec 09. can anyone tell me how good or otherwise this "Lucas" battery is? Because since the exide warrenty is over in october we're quite keen to get rid of it and go for a "jellytype" or sealed type battery rather than an acid one. So gimmie so tips on this Lucas battery please guys. (btw i'm guessing the "hard rubber" type is the jelly/sealed type battery?? not too sure bout that) Associated Battery manufactureres ( I think in Ratmalana) make all the local batteries in one plant and they name them as "Exide", "Lucas" and "Daganite". Althogh the sellers are different there is no major difference.

I fully agree with you mate. Diesel engines are more reliable as they have only one circuit (ie. the fuel supply line). But gasolene engines contain two circuites (ie. fuel supply line and ignition). So, if either of them breakes can not start. I always prefer diesel as if problem arises diagnosis is more simpler, If diesel comes it should start and it will run untill the last drop of fuel. I was also looking for a Diesel 110 few weeks back but finally I bought a Diesel corona primio as it contains all the options including crystal lights, Rpm and retract mirrors. But friend finding a carefully used diesel 110 is very very difficult

I agree with you. The said burning oil broblem is not a problem of il manufacturer. If you (the topic generator) have the smoke test certificate it will be a good measure if your engine actually burns the oil or pass the oil to some other location.

Yes, That is there. The premium calculation is included all of this taking the probability of stealing, accidents etc. So if you have done 3rd party you have to take the risk.

Guys, If you buy anything from the parent company they will not give you any discount. But if you buy from any sub agent they will give you a discount.

The company who is selling Soltron now promoting additive and they say it will increase the battery life up to 8 years. I added it two months before. According to my previous experience with my diesel vehicle battery lasts only 2 years and milestone is this November. So I will tell you the results in January. They sell 6 pills (one pill per cell) @ Rs 1500/=

Japanese used cars assembly plant (around 14 year old cars) is at Japalawatte Minuwangoda their head office at Seeduwa.

Guys think of this, Insurence companies asses the value of the vehicle and calulate the probability of accidents then calculte the premium. So, If you are not renting or your vehicle is not leased, also your driving is carefull. calculate the amount you paid for them and what you have gained. Go for 3rd party!!!!!!! only Rs 500.00. That's what I have been doing 4 my driving experience of 22 years (two minor accidents costing around Rs 15000/=). So think of that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I agree with U, but you have to consider also the emmissions added by the fuel mainly Sulfer and carbon soot. In diesel engines what ever the oil U used after about 5000km you can see the engine oil thickens and carbonsoot accumulated. Also in both diesel & petrol engines you can measure the decrease in base number (due to Sulfuric) in the same way. So what the SL oil traders saying we have to omit & follow the minimum manufactureres recommended mineral oils and change in 3000km intervals.

I've heared different sales persons advice differently against their oil agency. Since with the locally manufactured (the most popular) oil we change every 4000km with synthetic oils interval can be allowed up to 15000km. We can agree that, since engine oil contains more than 15 properties going for better oil will not change the properties for long duration. But, how can it change the carbon soot and amount of sulfuric acid added by the fuel. So with better engine oils also we cannot extend the interval as two properties of the oil are reduced. I asked the same question from both S**ll and C***x, sales engineers the Indian engineer came from S**l could not answer. C***x engineer answered saying that with a better oil it will disperse carbon soot better and increase in base number due to sulfuric acid he could not answer. But I am not agreeng with him. Is anyone in the forum can give a better answer justifying the increase of interval.

Caltex facility is near Mc donalds (same side). If you have replaced injectors definitely they are malfunctioning because, in SL the problem comes from the same place which was last rapaird.

First when tproblem starts just open the bonnet and see that when you press the clutch top pump the reaction comes from the bottom pump. So, if it a fault of the clutch pumps. I guess air is entrapped inbetween or inside the pumps. As you said it happens when engine becomes hot I think that is the cause. Check for proper priming and check the pipe line for u bends up side. Also check the pumps, if the pump slopes other side of the bleeding vale this can occur. Also, replace brake oil completely with the one in Yellow container (when brake oil get deteriorate it evaporates at lower temperatures causing gas inside the system). Further, if the system error is the pump you can manually press the arm with a lever and enguage the gears If it is a fault of the clutch plate. Try replacing it.

The same thing can happen if the injection nozzles are not atomizing the spray. The bleeding of diesel drip down to sump. This is a very serious issue. If bleeding occurs oil level must rise. But, if the amount of bleed equal to burnt engine oil volume you will not get any increase. Caltex (at Kollupitiya) are doing lubricant tests if you wish to confirm the mix of oil you can give a sample to them.