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Davy

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Everything posted by Davy

  1. Davy
    Right. I was under the impression that the problem was with the Driver's airbag. Anyway, thanks for the clarification.
  2. Davy
    Oh. I thought it was an issue with just the airbag in the steering. Was it both driver and passenger airbags or the G sensor towards the middle of the dashboard?
  3. Davy
    1. The Active Yaw Control fuse. Your car doesn't have AYC, that's why there is no relay in that slot (second picture, slot 19). The slot in the fuse board should be empty as well. As @Sierra Charlie said, this comes only on certain models of the Galant/Legnum that has AWD. 2. Yes your car doesn't have ABS. Again, that's why there is no relay in the slot marked as ABS (Slot 18 on engine bay fuse box). The layout diagram is a common one for the model. It's not specific to the options that this particular car has. Slots related to optional equipment unavailable on a particular example are left with no fuse/relay as there is no need for one. Hope this makes sense.
  4. Davy
    The error code is self-explanatory. So you don't have to worry about other sensors for now. Just focus on the TPS alone - at least until after you have it checked. First of all, take your car to a good garage with a proper diagnostic tool, plug it in, start the car, step on the gas and observe the TPS reading on the scanner. There maybe a couple of "dead spots" that may lead to the check engine light. I believe the voltage range should be 4.5 to 5.5.
  5. Davy
    Thanks for sharing @HashanJay. Tagging a few more CS owners that I can think of. @s.madura, @vidura, @Dushyantha, @Chathurike, @carson, @Jor-el, @amilaart, @Ashein
  6. Davy
    Looking good!
  7. Davy
    The click sound means the solenoid is being engaged. It's just that the motor doesn't spin when it does. If the contacts are also properly secured, the only other reason I can think of why the motor doesn't spin is because the solenoid doesn't send positive power to the motor. This can be because the contacts inside the solenoid are faulty. There is switching mechanism at the back of the solenoid that sends power to the motor when the key in the "START" position. This needs to be checked.
  8. Davy
    Whenever I see a post related to L200, I know it's this guy. Asking to stick to one thread doesn't seem to be working. First of all, what's the duration between the first and second incidents? If your starter motor was serviced and repaired properly, one other reason for the motor to not spin is because of improper connections between the battery and starter. Check if if both positive and ground connections to the starter are okay (starting from the battery terminals all the way to the motor).
  9. Davy
    The HSV Maloo is a high performance Ute (HSV stands for Holden Special Vehicle). But there are Utes from both Holden and Ford (The XR6 Ute to be specific) in Australia (among other brands) that are extensively used for all of the purposes you have highlighted above.
  10. Davy

    Fog Light

    Davy replied to HRS's topic in MITSUBISHI

    Better keep an eye on them for water leaks which is a common cause for the bulb burning out. Hope the dust boots behind the housing were properly secured. Due to the nature of the low position of the lights water can enter the housing and burn the bulb if the housing isn't properly sealed.
  11. Davy
    Did you check the tyre pressure chart on the B pillar?
  12. Davy

    PHEV conversion

    Davy replied to miraj's question in General

    Managed to recall and dig up the Australian company. http://www.evplus.com.au/evplus_conversions.htm
  13. Davy
    Yes, agreed. There maybe significant voltage drops and spikes especially when the car is being started, switched off and when the load on the alternator changes. However, I think the small regulator circuit behind a good USB port deals with the fluctuations and delivers a pretty clean voltage given that it's a "proper" adaptor. All rechargeable batteries have a C rating - the rate at which a battery should be charged/discharged. And this generally related to the capacity of the battery. For example, if a battery with a capacity of 500mAh needs to be charged at a rate of 1C, this means that it should be charged at 500mAh for 1 hour. If the C rate is 0.5, it should be charged at 250mA for 2 hours. Just to list a few examples. Exceeding the C rating is not always good for the battery. Researched all this while hunting for a charger for the RC car. But yes, I believe all modern phones have mechanisms to prevent over-charging and to control the charge rate (C).
  14. Davy

    PHEV conversion

    Davy replied to miraj's question in General

    lol I remember seeing something about an Australian company that in fact build PHEV kits for the Prius. Not sure if they are still operational, but the thing I remember mostly was that the ranges they give were not that great.
  15. Davy

    Eco mode How does work?

    Davy replied to miraj's question in General

    Varies from vehicle to vehicle, but the common mechanisms are: 1. Change shift points (automatic transmission): The transmission shifts gears sooner to keep engine RPM minimal. Low revolutions means less combustion. Less combustion means less fuel consumed. This is the most commonly used method. 2. Optimise throttle responsiveness: The ECU changes the way it reacts to the readings from the throttle position sensor. This means the accelerator pedal will behave slightly different than in normal mode. All done to minimise the use of fuel. 3. Lower idle RPM: The ECU lowers the engine RPM when idle to burn less fuel. 4. AC operated efficiently (Automatic or Climate Control AC): Automatic AC works differently to minimise load on the engine and thereby save fuel.
  16. Davy
    A USB port's voltage on a PC is 5V and the amperage is 500mA or 900mA (USB 2.0 and USB 3.0 respectively). If the phone can be safely charged by plugging it into a PC, then surely it can be charged through any USB port that outputs 5V and amperage between 500mA and 900mA. Having said that, some phone chargers supplied originally with phones nowadays have ratings higher than 900mA. My phone's charger for example says 5V 2A. Charging it plugged into a PC takes quite a long time. I think most people ruin (by ruin I mean shorten the lifetime of the battery) their phones with car USB ports and adaptors is because they used a USB adaptor with a higher charge rate than the battery should be charged at. When buying a charger, it is important to check if the charger or adaptor is suitable for the devices you plan to plug into it. I have a Belkin USB adaptor that plugs into the cigarette lighter of my car and the rating of that is 5V 600mA or something. So almost any phone can be safely charged. I could have gone all the way up to 2A, but my wife's phone came with a charger with a 750mA rating I think. The eBay link that OP has shared says that the ports output 5V 1.2A/2.1A. So if you charge a phone that is meant to be charged with a 5V 500mA power source for example, obviously the lifetime of the battery will suffer. My 2 cents.
  17. Davy
    I believe the USB port has a small resistor behind it to bring the voltage down to 5V. USB ports that plug in directly to the cigarette lighter work in the same way.
  18. Davy
    The cigarette lighter is not that far away. But if the fuse box of the 121 is closer (above the pedals maybe), you can locate the fuse that powers the cigarette lighter and tap into it. You can get a compatible fuse tap from eBay and do a clean job without cutting any wires. Just an alternative suggestion to Rumesh88's.
  19. Davy
    Glad you managed to sort out the issue. Would have been a far more expensive (and pointless) repair if you blindly followed your mechanic's advise and replaced the ABS module.
  20. Davy
    We already have a thread to share fuel figures and the Civic Hybrid figures have been shared two years ago. Please search before opening new threads.
  21. Davy
    Welcome to Sri Lanka.
  22. Davy
    Dear Nalakasm, please stop opening threads for every issue that pops up into your mind about your car. We understand that you want to get all of them fixed, but opening 4 different threads during a 5 day period is not the way to go. 1. Search the forum. See if you can find the answer to your problem. If you find a thread that is closely related to your issue, respond to that thread instead of opening a new one. 2. Use 1 thread to ask all issues you come up with your car. Call it "Help with my Nissan HB11" Opening multiple redundant threads makes it very difficult for people to find information on the forum amidst the vast amount of threads that are already here. As for your brake booster problem, you will have to search in Panchikawatte for a used one. If you fail, you can use an adaptor plate and use a booster of a different vehicle (preferably a Nissan).
  23. Davy
    The errors say that all four of your wheel speed sensors are at fault. The first thing to do is to check if all wheel speed sensors are clean and if the sensor rings are okay (no damaged teeth, not filled with dust or dirt). Clean them if necessary. Since it's unlikely for all four sensors to fail at once, it might be a connection issue on the wire harness that goes into the ABS module, or the ABS module itself being faulty. Check to make sure that the connections are secure.
  24. Davy

    Fog Light

    Davy replied to HRS's topic in MITSUBISHI

    @trinity did this on his CS1. More info in the thread below.
  25. Davy
    Added a couple of these to my playlist. Thanks PL!
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