Davy

OP, why don't you search the forum? The vehicle in question is pretty old and the forum has a truckload of information about it. http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/11131-townace-kr42-dx-and-gl/ http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/15356-toyota-cr-4241-kr-4241/ http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/7366-toyota-townace-kr42/ http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/11099-kr42-high-fuel-consumption/ http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/3680-difference-between-cr41-cr42-cr51/ http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/7909-need-advice-on-a-townace-kr42/ http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/12512-converted-petrol-to-diesel-kr42-price-procs-and-cons/ http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/12520-diesel-convert-kr42/ http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/14271-kr-42-convert-parts/ http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/11427-fuel-consumption-of-kr42-petrol-2006/ http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/13045-noah-conversion-for-a-5-door-kr42/ http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/5401-toyota-kr42/ http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/2994-toyota-townace-kr42-need-your-opinions/ ... too tired of copy pasting. here's the rest. This thread is redundant.

Sorry I must have accidentally marked this thread as read, I didn't know I was up. Try this one:

Simply leaving the car on P without the parking brake engaged leaves a lot of stress on the transmission. Especially if the vehicle is parked on a slope. Always pull your parking brake if you are turning the engine off.

Good question, and the answer is yes it can. If the car in question has ABS, then the ABS module will make sure that the brake force is distributed to the 4 corners of the car. The rear being poorly adjusted means more room for the pistons to push the brake liners towards the drum. Even if this was a car without ABS, poorly adjusted rear brakes can affect pedal traversal because the master cylinder will have to pump more fluid through the system for the rear liners to push against the drum. As for the term OP has used, I assume he was referring to brake pads at the front and liners (shoes) at the rear. His first sentence says that he has replaced them on both front and rear. One other thing I didn't mention in my previous post is that the adjusters at the back are usually self-adjusting. Only older cars required manual adjustment. The mechanism works in two ways (based on the design): 1. When the parking brake is pulled firmly: The adjusting mechanism automatically adjusts itself to bring the brake liners to the desired position every time the parking brake is pulled firmly. 2. When brakes are applied firmly when the car is being reversed: Putting the car into reverse and stomping on the brake pedal hard will cause the self-adjusting mechanism to activate and adjust the liners. I'm sure OP has pulled the handbrake more than once after the repair, so maybe you can try the second option. Remember that you have to depress the brake pedal hard when in reverse. Take care when doing this. If this does not solve the issue, you can bleed the system to ensure that no air has been trapped in the system.

Your mechanic is referring to the the manual adjusting spur wheel on the rear brakes. This is a small adjuster wheel that can be rotated to bring the liners closer to/further away from the drums. You can see this spur wheel on the lower middle of the following first image (the shiny silver thing). Some setups are different to that of the first image. You can see that the adjustment spur in the following brakes is right under the slave cylinder. This is the most common setup in my experience. Anyway, this is what is referred to as "Katuwak pannanawa" by our local mechanics. Your mechanic might have adjusted this screw that caused the brake pads to move further away from the drum. This might be the reason as to why your brakes are not as efficient as they used to be. If this is the case, it just needs re-adjustment. My opinion is that this adjustment spur shouldn't even need adjustment if it was just an ordinary brake pad replacement. Messing up this adjustment can cause unforeseen issues like what OP is experiencing. Note that this is just one possibility only. Brought this up because I felt like your mechanic has messed up the adjustment.

Wish everyone a very happy and prosperous new year 2016!

Adding the photos as per the previous post. Exterior: Equipment: The MMCS: Doing what she's meant to be doing

Hi Guys, After four months and just under 3000km of running, I thought of reporting back about the car and to write a brief review. There have been some good reviews on the forum lately and I hope this too will fall into the collection. As all the other reviews on the forum are, please consider this to be a non-professional point of view. As I have mentioned in the original post of this thread, the Lancer RalliArt is right in the middle between the base Lancer (EX) and the Evolution X. Starting from the engine to even the trunk space of the car, everything is right there in the middle. But this raises some questions, asked by many of my friends and even some forum members: 1. How practical/comfortable is it? The RalliArt has got bits and pieces from the Evolution X that brings it to a higher level of performance, while maintaining the practicality of the base Lancer. The car is a mid-sized sedan that can comfortably accommodate five adults for even a trip that lasts a few hours. The seats are very comfortable. There is ample leg space at the back, even for a six footer to sit comfortably. In my RalliArt, I have got the leather interior package and after using a couple of cars with fabric interiors, I have forgotten how easy and more pleasant a leather interior can be. The driving position is one of the other things that I enjoy most. Having driven the Nissan Sunny and Toyota Corolla of the same age, I think the Lancer has the best driving position of them all. The driver has a clear view all round and all components of the dashboard are within your reach. Suspension is a totally different story, occupants can feel even the slightest bump on the road, so this is not as comfortable as the base Lancer. I guess you can’t complain about it given that the car has bigger wheels and a different suspension system to the base Lancer or the Evo X. Still, I felt that the RalliArt is much less comfortable than even a Subaru WRX of the age. I’ve driven the EX in Sri Lanka and the car was much much more comfortable than this. While the EX has a decent amount of trunk space, the Evo X doesn’t. This is due to the fact that the Evo is an AWD car that has a different suspension system at the back to do the rear drivetrain. It also has the battery in the trunk whereas the Lancer EX has the battery in the engine compartment. So the Evo has a really small trunk. The RalliArt trunk is in between. The floor of the trunk is higher (like the Evo) due to the AWD system, and this also has a space saver spare wheel (unlike the Evo that only has a puncture repair kit). So trunk space can be a problem in the RalliArt. But of course the rear seats can be folded down to make room to transport lengthy items. The rear seats of the Evo X cannot be folded. 2. What kinds of bells and whistles does it have? Mitsubishi Multimedia Communication System (MMCS) GPS AM/FM/CD/DVD/Aux input/iPod connectivity/Bluetooth Voice recognition Maintenance schedule and log Car equipment customization – this thing is wired to the entire car. Even the intermittent wiper duration, turn indicator click sound can be customised. Equaliser, Air conditioner controls, Lap times log, Fuel consumption history blah blah. Rockford Fosgate sound system (4 speakers - 1 on each door, 2 tweeters on A pillars and sub woofer in the trunk) 7 airbags including driver’s knee airbag, ABS Keyless entry and keyless start with security system with interior motion detector Rain sensing windshield wipers and dusk sensing headlamps Climate control AC Multi-function steering wheel with Audio controls, Cruise control, Bluetooth controls and voice command buttons to the MMCS Active Stability Control (ASC). Mitsubishi All Wheel Control System (AWC) that lets you switch between three modes – Gravel, Tarmac and Snow. I read that the AWC system on the RalliArt is the system from the Evo IX. The RalliArt is missing Active Yaw Control (AYC) which the Evo X has. Twin Clutch SST transmission with two shift modes (Normal and Sport). The transmission can be shifted manually using either the stick or the paddle shifters which are mounted on the steering column. Twin Exhausts RalliArt Bodykit with rear spoiler, Evolution X aluminium hood, front bumper with large grille with chrome surround. Fog lamps Colour multi information display (all 10th gen Lancers before 2010 came with a monochromatic red multi info display). This too can be used to access and customise the car equipment. Has two trip computers, shows fuel consumption, distance from remaining fuel, average speed, Kms until next service etc. Hill-start assist What’s missing in my car: Sunroof (the sunroof was not offered to the Australian Market RalliArts after 2010) HID projector headlamps (hoping to get a set soon!) 3. How fast is it? Many reviews give an average of 7.1 seconds for 0 – 100 km/h. Tested mine when the car was fully loaded with 5 occupants and a trunk full of baggage and I did 0 – 100 on a straight tarmac road (in sport mode) in 8.2 seconds. I haven’t really had the chance to push the car to its limit yet mainly because I don’t want to do this on the open public roads. But there was one time I did a bit over 180 km/h on an open country road. 4. How does it drive? Nothing like I have ever driven before. As I have mentioned before, the SST shifts mind-blowingly fast. The car can be thrown at a corner at high speed and you can expect it to comfortably take it on. The car sits a bit higher than the Evo X, so a bit of body roll can be observed at heavy cornering. Although Mitsubishi says that the turbo kicks in at about 2500 RPM, I don’t feel it kicking in until about 3000 – 3500 RPM. I have heard others saying the same. I mostly use the paddles to shift, mainly because they’re at the end of my fingertips. But I do love to keep my left hand on the shifter and go at it every now and then. The SST takes a bit of time to operate properly when driven off from a cold start. The transmission holds each gear for a bit longer and sometimes you feel like you’re waiting and waiting until the car shifts to the next gear, but it just doesn’t and the revs go to about 3000 – 4000. But after the engine temperature reaches the mid-point, it’s all smooth. Driving in traffic in automatic mode is bit of a disappointment. The car shifts back and forth and struggles to sometimes take off in stop-and-go traffic. I mostly drive in manual mode, so this is not a problem for me personally, but I have heard others complain about it. But out of city traffic, the car drives really well even in automatic mode. The gearbox almost feels like it’s reading the driver’s mind, shifting up and down as if you would do yourself. The longest drive I did was 760km. 5 occupants and a fully loaded trunk. The car took on all sorts of weather (rain, burning sun, wind) and all sorts of road conditions (freeway tarmac, gravel roads). On the gravel road, I switched the AWC system to GRAVEL and then floored it. The car took it on really well. Do I miss the clutch pedal? Yes I do. Pity that Mitsubishi never offered a manual version of the RalliArt. 5. Fuel consumption Best: 15.2 km/l with an average speed of about 100km/h on the freeway with 5 occupants and a fully loaded trunk. Average: 8.7 kmpl 3 times in a row in mixed driving conditions. Driver and passenger with an average speed of about 30km/h, light on the throttle. Worst so far: 7.2 km/l with a bit of heavy driving. I expect this to go even lower when pushed even further. The recommended fuel for the RalliArt is 98 octane unleaded petrol. Also, even the Evo X is supposed to be run on Octane 98. Given that we have a few Evo Xs in Sri Lanka, I wonder how these are running? Do we have fuel stations that sell 98 octane? 6. Any problems so far? Nothing major. I might have to replace the front wheel bearings as a roar can be heard at high speeds. Car slightly pulls to the left under heavy braking, should get the front suspension and alignment inspected. An upper cylinder clean-up (tune-up) also will have to be done. Scheduled an appointment for Jan 22nd to get this all done. TL;DR (Too long; didn’t read): The RalliArt is comfortable inside, more than enough space for 5 occupants to travel comfortably. The driving position is awesome! Suspension is rough when compared to the EX, but nothing to complain about since this is meant to be felt like this. The trunk space is adequate but small compared to other mid-sized sedans like the Corolla 141. The Mitsubishi Multimedia Communication System (MMCS) has got it all. GPS, Audio, Video, Bluetooth, Maintenance Logs, Lap counters, Car equipment customisation etc. The 7 speaker Rockford Fosgate audio is awesome! Bells and whistles include: 7 Airbags, ABS, Active Stability Control (ASC), All Wheel Control (AWC), Rain sensing wipers, Dusk sensing headlamps, Bodykit, Fog lamps, Keyless entry, Motion detection, Climate Control AC etc. Does 0 – 100 km/h in 7.1 seconds according to reviews. The car drives really well. The SST transmission is something totally different, but takes some time to heat up and deliver optimal performance. Manual mode is most fun. The RalliArt doesn’t have a manual variant. The longest trip I did was 760km in all sorts of driving conditions. The car held up pretty well. 8.7 kmpl average fuel consumption. Mixed driving conditions. Light driving. 98 Octane. Will share some photos in this thread soon.

Welcome to the forum! You can find details of places that do chrome plating by searching the forum. Follow search instructions here. As for parts, you should be able to find body, trim and other rare bits in Panchikawatte scrap yards. Did you do a search? You also might be able to find stuff around Kurunegala. There used to be a "watte" just next to the BMC building at Panchikawatte and there were a few shops that stored parts of old Japs including Sunnys, Corollas, Lancers etc. There are a few B211 projects on the forum that you might find interesting: Sumiya's project was pretty popular a few years back. Not sure of the current status of the project. The images on the thread seem to be broken now, but here it is: http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/10176-my-little-project-on-1974-sunny-gx/ Another one - quite recent: http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/16893-my-first-car-nissan-b211-1976/

Before the facelift (2001 - 2003): Facelift (2003 - 2008): Same car, exterior differences.

First time I heard of a Mitsubishi being taken to D!MO but okay... There are many O rings on the engine, can you be more specific as to which O ring you are referring to? Injector O rings? If yes, they're pretty easy to source locally and should be pretty cheap.

I'm positive that they do because the AC control panel connector just has to be removed and then plugged back in through the CD changer opening.

Good one s.madura! This is something I wanted to do for the car, but couldn't. Very happy to see that she finally got the double din dashboard. I think that it's safe to say that this is the only pre-facelift CS3 in Sri Lanka with a double din dashboard. Well done! Back in 2009, when I was considering the conversion, a company called Orbital was selling a conversion kit for about $300! Mind you this was only the bits that s.madura bought from eBay. But people were still buying them. As for me, the price was too high for a couple of bezels and mounting brackets. But as time went by and as the CS got a bit older, these parts started selling at low prices.

That isn't the correct way to measure actually. Do this:1. Pump a full tank of petrol. Reset the trip computer before leaving the fuel station. 2. Drive (you don't have to drive until the gauge drops to "E". Half a tank is good). 3. Fill up again until full tank. Note how many litres were pumped. 4. Fuel consumption = Trip computer reading / Number of litres pumped Repeat above steps a few times and calculate the average of the figures resulted in step 4. Remember to reset trip computer after step 4 if you're doing this. Note that this too can skew your results based on various reasons: - Incorrectly calibrated fuel pump at fuel station. Sometimes deliberate. Select a good fuel station and stick to it. - Pumping more after the fuel station pump automatic cut off. Always stop pumping after first cut off. - Long periods of idle running/racing the engine when the car is put up for a repair. - Changes in your driving style. Be as consistent as possible, but drive as you would normally drive.

Wishing everyone a very Merry Christmas! Be safe on the road gents.

Hi GAPAUTO, Been seeing a lot of new topics by you about your A72 recently. Appreciate if you can start a restoration thread and share your project details and ask all your questions in that. Also, both questions you have asked have been discussed before. The radiator issue is a general problem while the handbrake self-adjusting mechanism is a known issue. I'll leave you to search (here's how) about the radiator problem, but you should go for a newly fabricated copper radiator from a place like Radiator House. That will last a lifetime. The radiator I had on my A27 was a newly fabricated one and I got it done from Radiator House as well. Got it done in 2003 or so, not a single leak until 2013 when I had to part with the car. As for the handbrake self-adjusting mechanism, this is a known issue for which there is no straightforward solution. I doubt you will find a used kit in good condition with all the bits and pieces in working order, because I did a clean sweep of Panchikawatte and even a bit of Kurunegala and Wadduwa etc. (back in 2010 or so), but I couldn't find one. In the end, this is what I tried: - Fill and cut (machine) the grooves in the handbrake mechanism so that the teeth would not slip (worked for a while, but not successful since it snapped and settled in the fully retracted position which made the rear brakes weaker) - Permanently weld the two halves together with a small welding tack in the middle position (worked for a quite a number of years. the only issue was that the handbrake lever needed to be pulled higher and higher as the liners wore out) - Replace the entire rear brakes with one from a Lancer Box (ultimate solution. Existing brake cylinders were used because The Box had smaller cylinders due to having disk brakes in the front.) My recommendation would be for you to go for a Lancer Box brake mechanism (dial and everything). If you can't find one, you can try the first option of filling the grooves and cutting them. The guy who did mine messed it up, otherwise I think it would have worked for a long time. Oh and no, brake shoes are sold on their own and doesn't come with the adjustment mechanism. Read more in the following posts: - http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/15985-my-a72-build/page-3#entry262900 - http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/15272-disk-brake-conversion/#entry243056 - http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/13719-1979-lancer-a72-restoration/page-4#entry213864

Since this is a 2008 CS1, it should be EFI. All pre-facelift CS1 Lancers had carb engines. So this should do better than them IMO. Also, how did you measure fuel consumption? Did you do the "full tank to full tank" method?

The CS manuals shared in this thread also cover the CS1 facelift. Just look for the CG Australian manuals. Everything should be same except for the engine. For the engine, look for the 4G14 MPI manual.

Roof rails are not just for the looks. They do serve a purpose (like affixing cycle mounts, surf boards, camping gear etc. for transportation). In order to attach such things onto the rails, they need to be firmly attached to the body. If the agents themselves drill the roof, then that is how the manufacturer intended the rails to be installed, so don't worry about it. Just get it installed properly and it will look like the car came with them from the factory.

Not sure of the design on the FB15, but you can usually replace only the clock spring, without replacing the entire steering wheel assembly.

I'd rather get the acrylic type one because that's what comes with all original badges. Even though the tape that you have shared the link to is white, it will get discoloured with time as dirt and grime gets gathered in there. The related items in that side showed this: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/20mm-Width-Auto-Truck-Car-Sticker-Acrylic-Foam-Vehicle-Double-Sided-Adhesive-3M-Red-Tape/2036398926.html?spm=2114.10010108.0.82.oLomOv This one is thinner than the white one as well, so the badges will look like they're pasted directly on the body.

It could be a jammed/worn out key cylinder or sheared metal parts from the duplicate key being stuck inside the cylinder. Some badly cut duplicate keys can damage the cylinder. You can take the car to a garage and have them remove it and get it cleaned to see if that works. The cylinder is sealed if I remember correctly, and can only be cleaned by spraying some contact cleaner through the keyhole. After thoroughly drying it, you can apply a thin layer of silicone grease on a key and then insert it so that it lubricates the moving parts inside. If this doesn't solve it, contact UniMo and have them order a key cylinder for you. I believe they will use the serial number on the key/cylinder and get one from Japan. Might take a couple of weeks though.

Just wanted to share a random set of photos I caught in Melbourne within a span of about 2 weeks of grey Mazda 2 DEs. Can anyone spot the significance of the car on the bottom left corner?

DSL: http://www.dsl-autoparts.com/ Ruhunu: http://www.ruhunumotors.com/

Thanks PreseaLover. I just noticed that none of my photos in the original and second posts were visible (broken links). I have just updated them. The process should be much clearer now.