Issues When Engine Heats Up

[hrm]

Hi Guys,

Since recently I'm facing some issues with my car when the engine heats up to its operating temperature. Car is Lancer CB2 1994 (4G15 Carb engine). when I start the car in the morning it starts up without any issue and engine RPM stays at 1000. But after some driving about 10 mins, following could be noted,

1. When I stop and try to start the engine when it is heated, it starts with difficulty and engine revs slowly around 400 - 500. (without AC). But I don't feel any low pulling power when driving.

2. When heated, it starts to emit smoke but this happens intermittently. (at cold start no smoke)

I have replaced all 4 plugs recently but it didn't help. Also engine miss fires a bit in the morning but goes off when engine gets heated. what would be the reason for above?

Thanks.

PS: Today when I start in the morning it started to emit white smoke after being idle for about 5 mins. I reved the engine a bit and then the smoke turned blue.

Edited May 28, 2012 by hrm

[Fixzit]

In my opinion, I think your engine's worn off quite a bit, being a 1994 it should have some serious mileage on the clock. Heating issue could be due to various number of reasons, but an engine which is under compression could easily be a cause for overheating and it could also leads to burning oil because too much heat can damage oil rings on your pistons, or simply the oil rings and cylinders could be worn, Which could explain why you are getting white smoke. Try using a thicker oil grade 50 maybe and see whether it fix your oil burning issue, and get your cooling system checked for radiator blockage, thermostat and fans ect..also get a tune up done on your carb..

[hrm]

  On 5/28/2012 at 6:36 AM, Fixzit said:

In my opinion, I think your engine's worn off quite a bit, being a 1994 it should have some serious mileage on the clock. Heating issue could be due to various number of reasons, but an engine which is under compression could easily be a cause for overheating and it could also leads to burning oil because too much heat can damage oil rings on your pistons, or simply the oil rings and cylinders could be worn, Which could explain why you are getting white smoke. Try using a thicker oil grade 50 maybe and see whether it fix your oil burning issue, and get your cooling system checked for radiator blockage, thermostat and fans ect..also get a tune up done on your carb..

Machan actually I'm not saying the car is over-heating. The above mentioned things happen when the engine reach to its normal operating temperature (I mentioned as 'heats up') as opposed to a cold start in the morning. It had logged 164K in Odo. Me too suspect on Rings.

Edited May 28, 2012 by hrm

[Sylvi]

  On 5/28/2012 at 6:56 AM, hrm said:

Machan actually I'm not saying the car is over-heating. The above mentioned things happen when the engine reach to its normal operating temperature (I mentioned as 'heats up') as opposed to a cold start in the morning. It had logged 164K in Odo. Me too suspect on Rings.

hrm,

First of all try with 50 oil grade as fxit suggests at the same time get the Radiator cleaned up, before you dismantle the engine.

Sylvi Wijesinghe.

[hrm]

Yes. dismantling the engine could be a disaster. Have to try with 50 then.

[NZer]

Try ignition timing. 50 oil wont do much. also check dizi cap.

[hrm]

  On 5/28/2012 at 7:27 AM, NZer said:

Try ignition timing. 50 oil wont do much. also check dizi cap.

Thanks!. can u explain a bit further as I'm bit new for these terms?

[NZer]

If the timing of the engine is out it can cause the engine to start at different temperatures. Also check if the Distributor cap is clean and there is nothing on the terminals inside. If there is clean them up and it might work.

[hrm]

  On 5/28/2012 at 8:36 AM, NZer said:

If the timing of the engine is out it can cause the engine to start at different temperatures. Also check if the Distributor cap is clean and there is nothing on the terminals inside. If there is clean them up and it might work.

Thanks NZer !

[Fixzit]

Adjusting the ignition timing will not stop the smoke in anyway,for that you'll have to either use a thicker oil like 50W or overhaul the engine. Having a new set of oil rings may stop the smoke temporary but that's not actually a proper fix. However as NZer suggested, check your ignition timing as well. It's worth a try. But because you said your car runs fine with a cold start, I personally am not so sure about ignition timing. I think it's more of an under-compression issue.

[FreakSL]

guys I have a problem when the engine heat up (as in come to the normal temperature) on cold start car runs fine without no hesitation good pick up, but once going in the traffic for a long time (morning and evening rush hour) sometime feels the pick up is not enough as usual and need to rev more to gain the pick up ?

is this is MAF problem or something any idea from the experts

Car is a Proton Savvy Manual

[Fixzit]

If you are loosing power after the engine heats up, that means your car could be over heating. If your engine is hotter than it's suppose to be, then parts inside your engine starts to expand creating more friction between them. That's what leads to loosing power, but in this case what you are saying is you need to rev up to get more power.. so it doesn't really add up. Because what should happen is that It will be hard for you to rev up the car when it's hot than when is normal.. in other words let's say for an example when you let go of the clutch at little bit above idle rev on 1st gear.. you can get 0-35kms in 3 seconds when the engine is cold but it takes 4 or 5 seconds to do the same when it's hot.. Is this your problem?

If not then it's most probably something else like an ECU issue or a sensor issue or tuning issue..or could be some other reason...

[hrm]

Thanks guys for comments. How much is it going to cost to do an engine overhaul roughly?

[The Don]

  On 5/27/2012 at 5:32 AM, hrm said:

Hi Guys,

Since recently I'm facing some issues with my car when the engine heats up to its operating temperature. Car is Lancer CB2 1994 (4G15 Carb engine). when I start the car in the morning it starts up without any issue and engine RPM stays at 1000. But after some driving about 10 mins, following could be noted,

1. When I stop and try to start the engine when it is heated, it starts with difficulty and engine revs slowly around 400 - 500. (without AC). But I don't feel any low pulling power when driving.

2. When heated, it starts to emit smoke but this happens intermittently. (at cold start no smoke)

I have replaced all 4 plugs recently but it didn't help. Also engine miss fires a bit in the morning but goes off when engine gets heated. what would be the reason for above?

Thanks.

PS: Today when I start in the morning it started to emit white smoke after being idle for about 5 mins. I reved the engine a bit and then the smoke turned blue.

Blue smoke implies your car is burning oil but it could be the valve seals or you might be able to get away with just replacing the piston rings. It doesn't look too bad at the moment.

The idle issue, well its a bit strange and I would have normally have gotten the carb and the injector checked. Usually at this age you normally need to do a carb repair using the repair kit, which will replace things like the injector, seals etc and give the carb a good clean.

I think a partial engine rebuild will set you back about 30K I recon depending on the garage but everything relies on the wear on the engine. The carb repair kit might be around 10K and its about 1/2 day to a days works depending on the skills of the mechanic.

[hrm]

  On 5/29/2012 at 1:09 PM, The Don said:

Blue smoke implies your car is burning oil but it could be the valve seals or you might be able to get away with just replacing the piston rings. It doesn't look too bad at the moment.

The idle issue, well its a bit strange and I would have normally have gotten the carb and the injector checked. Usually at this age you normally need to do a carb repair using the repair kit, which will replace things like the injector, seals etc and give the carb a good clean.

I think a partial engine rebuild will set you back about 30K I recon depending on the garage but everything relies on the wear on the engine. The carb repair kit might be around 10K and its about 1/2 day to a days works depending on the skills of the mechanic.

Thanks mate !!

[FreakSL]

  On 5/29/2012 at 11:23 AM, Fixzit said:

If you are loosing power after the engine heats up, that means your car could be over heating. If your engine is hotter than it's suppose to be, then parts inside your engine starts to expand creating more friction between them. That's what leads to loosing power, but in this case what you are saying is you need to rev up to get more power.. so it doesn't really add up. Because what should happen is that It will be hard for you to rev up the car when it's hot than when is normal.. in other words let's say for an example when you let go of the clutch at little bit above idle rev on 1st gear.. you can get 0-35kms in 3 seconds when the engine is cold but it takes 4 or 5 seconds to do the same when it's hot.. Is this your problem?

If not then it's most probably something else like an ECU issue or a sensor issue or tuning issue..or could be some other reason...

yes thats the problem also when its hot and going on a up hill power is so low and have to rev till 4-5 thousand RPM to keep the car without stalling , also notice that the gear change to first gear is bit difficult once this happen

can it be a worn out clutch how to check if it that

[Fixzit]

You can smell a worn clutch if it's worn you are driving under load like uphill, you should get a very distinctive smell.. also try this,Go to a place where there s a bit of open space, make sure there are no obstacles in front of your car for some distance. Apply handbrake, put your car car on 2nd gear while your clutch is pressed down, you need to press both acc and brake together and get your rpm up to maybe 2000rpm. Let go of the clutch and your engine should stop instantly( As if you just turn the ignition off).. if not.. you have a bad clutch buddy

But when you are going uphill and your car wants to stall that means your clutch is good...if your clutch is slipping, It will not let the engine stall because the load from your wheels will not be transferred to your engine. You have a Hydraulic clutch right?

[FreakSL]

  On 5/30/2012 at 12:47 PM, Fixzit said:

You can smell a worn clutch if it's worn you are driving under load like uphill, you should get a very distinctive smell.. also try this,Go to a place where there s a bit of open space, make sure there are no obstacles in front of your car for some distance. Apply handbrake, put your car car on 2nd gear while your clutch is pressed down, you need to press both acc and brake together and get your rpm up to maybe 2000rpm. Let go of the clutch and your engine should stop instantly( As if you just turn the ignition off).. if not.. you have a bad clutch buddy

But when you are going uphill and your car wants to stall that means your clutch is good...if your clutch is slipping, It will not let the engine stall because the load from your wheels will not be transferred to your engine. You have a Hydraulic clutch right?

nope its not a Hydraulic , it's cable. I replace the clutch like two months ago, so it cannot be worn out that soon, i dont think im a terrible driver to worn the clutch from two months

this power loss thing starts when the car is heat up like going in the very slow traffic, I had the check engine light on few weeks back and the agent said there was oxide on the throttle sensor , after cleaning it the light didn't come back, but after some time the power loss thing occurred , I cleaned the MAP sensor as well i don't think it helped,

[Fixzit]

There you go.. So It's not a bad clutch.. maybe get your sensors checked once again...