Mechanical Problems Toyota Corolla 2.0 Diesel 1998 (Model Ce110)

[antis]

Hi to all

My car is a TOYOTA Corolla 2.0 Diesel 1998 (model CE110) and I have a couple of issues but as a start I will write about the cold start problem.

Lately I have cold starts, I even turn the key on (waiting for the heating lamp to turn off) up to 3 times before I start.

Today I had 20 unsuccessful attempts to start the engine as a result I run out of battery.

My mechanic told me that he had checked the heatings and they are ok. I don’t know how to solve this problem

[kirala2]

What's the mileage on your car? Are you the first owner of the car, or has it changed hands a number of times before? Are you losing engine oil?

I'm just trying to establish whether you have a worn out engine.

[DNP]

I think this the time that you have to withdrawal money from bank.4 years ago, I had same problem in my toyota.and problem was end up with engine overhoul

Edited January 25, 2013 by DNP

[Magnum]

well if it has engine problems, i would suggest you to get the engine replaced rather than trying to fix it

[chan5]

to start with,

worn out engine is not the first thing to start with...

The beauty of the diesel engine is it starts always somehow, NO spark plug nonsense, it starts if it's not nearly dead.

And to start just change your heat plugs with good brand and see for improvements.

Try pumping the hand pump manually in cold start, if it's getting hard after several pumps, it's the failed hand pump.

Then check for visible oil burning, you'll notice a white smoke from the exhaust and significant oil burning in engine.in numbers it's about 500ml or more for each 1000km.pulling power will fall drastically and you'll emit smoke in massive scale when you put your foot down.

Engine overhaul is the last resort which i think last.

To be precise toyota 2C is the most easy to overhaul in sri lanka.

Just find a decent small mechanic.

dismantle it into pieces.

Replace pistons(alpine).

Re bore at reputed place(edirisinghe,D*MO)

replace all rings(toyota OEM).,

replace oil and water pump(Asin),

service injector pump, replace all injectors (denso), drain cooling system and clean and refill coolent.

Replace the timing belt(toyota original),and all oil seals and water jackets.

Remove the alternator and service it, just general service.

Check for engine mounts and replace all if needed (RBI).

If you need you can fully service the AC system at this moment.

Replace all filters, VIC Is best but Sakura would do.

Use mobil delvac 15w40 or Castrol rx 15w40 to refill. (Delo is cow dung mixed with pig urine and which is used by idiots).

Start the engine in and run for day or so...

Do proper running in period...

You have an engine now which is capable of another 150k miles for sure .

For complete it would cost about 10-15k for labour and you source parts so total would be less than 120k.done it last year december in my mother's car....

Edited January 25, 2013 by chan5

[jdnet]

  On 1/25/2013 at 7:16 PM, Magnum said:

well if it has engine problems, i would suggest you to get the engine replaced rather than trying to fix it

That's a down right retarded thing to say. If you don't know anything about cars, then just shut up and stick to jacking off to pictures of cell phones ok?

[antis]

Hi again
I’m kind of scared after what I have read.
As I have said I had to start with the cold start issue, but yes 3 months ago I have

found oil in the intake manifold. In the service that followed I have told my mechanic

and he assure me that is not a big problem. Along with this, I had black smoke

(not white) and as I had found later the air filter was not in the right place.

The two screws/bolts that they are holding the air filter were broken.

When I had cleaned the intake manifold and put the air filter system in the right place

the black smoke when away.

Additionally I had installed an oil catch tank since I didn’t like the idea of having oil

going in the intake manifold. I don’t know if this can cause more issues with the

cold start? Please advice.

Also I’m wondering if anyone has a service manual for this engine, since I’m not a

mechanic I need it to identify the various engines parts.

I will start by changing the heat plugs since I had minor similar issues (they where

replaced 2 years ago)

Please also explain how to pumping the pump manually and where it is located.

[antis]

  On 1/27/2013 at 12:13 AM, antis said:

Hi again

I’m kind of scared after what I have read.

As I have said I had to start with the cold start issue, but yes 3 months ago I have

found oil in the intake manifold. In the service that followed I have told my mechanic

and he assure me that is not a big problem. Along with this, I had black smoke

(not white) and as I had found later the air filter was not in the right place.

The two screws/bolts that they are holding the air filter were broken.

When I had cleaned the intake manifold and put the air filter system in the right place

the black smoke when away.

Additionally I had installed an oil catch tank since I didn’t like the idea of having oil

going in the intake manifold. I don’t know if this can cause more issues with the

cold start? Please advice.

Also I’m wondering if anyone has a service manual for this engine, since I’m not a

mechanic I need it to identify the various engines parts.

I will start by changing the heat plugs since I had minor similar issues (they where

replaced 2 years ago)

Please also explain how to pumping the pump manually and where it is located.

UPDATE

I had test the glow plugs and I had found 2 out of 4 to be dead (continuity test)

First I had removed all of them, I had clean the champers since where all full of carbon and put 4 new ones.

The car starts like a rocket.

I did it my self and I don’t believe it that my mechanic had fool me that they where ok 1 month ago.

I had also located the hand pump and I did the test you had mentioned. Unfortunate the pump goes hard after 3 pushes. Could you explain what that means?

[harshansenadhir]

Pump goes hard means the fuel feed circuit is getting loaded as a result of pumping and is a good sign.

However, since the issue was with the pre-heat plugs you don't have to worry about the pump I think.

Further, what's the tank you fixed to catch oil in the intake manifold? I thought these engines are designed to take some oil through intake manifold (via breather)

[hasmax]

  On 1/25/2013 at 7:39 PM, chan5 said:

to start with,

worn out engine is not the first thing to start with...

The beauty of the diesel engine is it starts always somehow, NO spark plug nonsense, it starts if it's not nearly dead.

And to start just change your heat plugs with good brand and see for improvements.

Try pumping the hand pump manually in cold start, if it's getting hard after several pumps, it's the failed hand pump.

Then check for visible oil burning, you'll notice a white smoke from the exhaust and significant oil burning in engine.in numbers it's about 500ml or more for each 1000km.pulling power will fall drastically and you'll emit smoke in massive scale when you put your foot down.

Engine overhaul is the last resort which i think last.

To be precise toyota 2C is the most easy to overhaul in sri lanka.

Just find a decent small mechanic.

dismantle it into pieces.

Replace pistons(alpine).

Re bore at reputed place(edirisinghe,D*MO)

replace all rings(toyota OEM).,

replace oil and water pump(Asin),

service injector pump, replace all injectors (denso), drain cooling system and clean and refill coolent.

Replace the timing belt(toyota original),and all oil seals and water jackets.

Remove the alternator and service it, just general service.

Check for engine mounts and replace all if needed (RBI).

If you need you can fully service the AC system at this moment.

Replace all filters, VIC Is best but Sakura would do.

Use mobil delvac 15w40 or Castrol rx 15w40 to refill. (Delo is cow dung mixed with pig urine and which is used by idiots).

Start the engine in and run for day or so...

Do proper running in period...

You have an engine now which is capable of another 150k miles for sure .

For complete it would cost about 10-15k for labour and you source parts so total would be less than 120k.done it last year december in my mother's car....

that's a good one bro....

[antis]

  On 1/27/2013 at 1:35 PM, harshansenadhir said:

Further, what's the tank you fixed to catch oil in the intake manifold? I thought these engines are designed to take some oil through intake manifold (via breather)

The tank is like this one

Are you sure about this (that they take oil throught the intake manifold)?

[harshansenadhir]

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="antis" data-cid="231437" data-time="1359309637"><p>

<br />

The tank is like this one <a href='

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</a><br />

<br />

Are you sure about this (that they take oil throught the intake manifold)?<br />

</p></blockquote>

Yes, older diesel engines were designed to exhale excess oil pressure in the crankcase through breather. However, later this was changed to re-feed the breather line through intake so the intake manifold walls would be wet (retain any dust particals travel through intake) and inlet valves too would get lubricated.

[terrabytetango]

+1 for filters. Did you check the fuel filter for clogging? My experience with worn 2C engines have been that, crank them for about 10-15 seconds with a good battery and they *will* start. Even without using the glowplugs.

[The Don]

Learned a few things about this engine on a recent visit to my mechanic. He was fixing one of them as I arrived. The symptom was the same as above. Hard to start in the morning. But the issue was very different, and thankfully my mechanic was clued on enough to figure out what the problem was.

The engine has had a rebuild. As you know the valves, the camshafts etc do not wear evenly, so when the engine is rebuild, the machine shop will adjust the shims on top of the valves so as to work with the slightly worn cam lobes, tappets etc. The problem here was something had gone wrong and the valves were not being released properly leading to vacuum leaks. The proper fix would be been to take the head off and get the entire thing re-calibrated. The owner was a pastor and not the richest person. So my mechanic took just the shims to a machine shop and got them to take a little bit off each of them to get the mechanism working properly. Took a few visits because it's a very fine job and you don't really want to take too much off.

When the engine is rebuild again this issue will get properly sorted out (if the machine shop knows what they are doing). But the engine now works perfectly and starts on the button.

[antis]

  On 1/29/2013 at 7:02 AM, terrabytetango said:

+1 for filters. Did you check the fuel filter for clogging? My experience with worn 2C engines have been that, crank them for about 10-15 seconds with a good battery and they *will* start. Even without using the glowplugs.

No I haven't. How would it do it?

I had started the car 30 times since the glowplugs change. It starts from 1st attempt now. So I'm sure that the glowplugs where the issue.

[hiru555]

Nice Thread. Learned a lot.