Alternator Porblem Ek3

[maheshw]

Guys, need some assistant on identifying a small issue.

Vehicle model is ek3 Auto.

All my lights are vibrating including head lights & dash board indicators. i show it to my mechanic & as he state it's due to an overcharging the battery.

as he indicate it can be alternator coil or either regulator.he asked me to do this asap as it can be effect to some electronic components. any idea of this repair? is it recommend to repair or replace with a alternator?

[Reckless]

One of my friends had a CV30 which developed a similar issue time to time. But the headlights didnt flicker only the dash lights. The problem was with alternator diodes. He said he changed the diodes and the problem was solved. But he had to change the diodes time to time. Your problem might be deferent though. I think its better to replace the alternator all together.

[Rumesh88]

  On 10/13/2013 at 1:30 PM, maheshw said:

Guys, need some assistant on identifying a small issue.

Vehicle model is ek3 Auto.

All my lights are vibrating including head lights & dash board indicators. i show it to my mechanic & as he state it's due to an overcharging the battery.

as he indicate it can be alternator coil or either regulator.he asked me to do this asap as it can be effect to some electronic components. any idea of this repair? is it recommend to repair or replace with a alternator?

Your mechanic is totally wrong. He cannot come to his conclusion merely by observing flickering lights. Best thing is to measure the voltage with a digital meter first with AC and lights off at idle and then at 2000 rpm with all the electrical loads on. If your alternator is working ok you should get a STEADY reading of 13.8 to 14.2 V in both situations when the engine is fully warmed up. My guess is that you would get a reading of less that 13.8 when you put all the electrical loads on and your battery must be under charging not over charging. As Reckless above said it could be due to a faulty diode but it could also be due to worn out brushes. In either case get the alternator opened and test the diodes and if they are OK get your replaces you brushes (and bearings as well if not replaced for some time). It is somewhat unlikely that your regulator which is built into the alternator is faulty in this situation.

Edit:Just an after thought. Did your mechanic scan your ECU and then told you of the over charging situation? If so that's a different story.

Edited October 14, 2013 by Rumesh88

[maheshw]

nop. he didnt scan it romesh. just plug the multimeter & checked. today i went to my battery shot & check it again omg it in 15v with ac or with put ac. now i feel its some thing wrong with alternator. am i correct ?

[Reckless]

If you see 15V continuously I think there might be some thing wrong with the alternator. Like Rumesh pointed out the voltage should be between 13.8 to 14.2 V. Get it replaced or rebuilt asap.

[Rumesh88]

  On 10/14/2013 at 4:58 PM, maheshw said:

nop. he didnt scan it romesh. just plug the multimeter & checked. today i went to my battery shot & check it again omg it in 15v with ac or with put ac. now i feel its some thing wrong with alternator. am i correct ?

Now that's how one should check the alternator output. 15V reading o a digital voltmeter is way too high and I believe you still get the flicker in your headlights. In this case it cannot be the alternator brushes but can be its regulator. There is another sensing part inside the fuse box called Electronic Load Detection (ELD) unit. This can go wrong but still should not boost output to 15V. So it boils down to your alternator.

[VVTi]

I would without wasting time on the internet, take the car to a good auto electrician and get the alterantor checked/serviced.

Your diode plate might need replacement.

While you are at it, get the complete unit cleaned and serviced, change the pulley bearing also in one shot.

[YRD]

@ maheshw.. I had the same issue with my EK3 auto a few months ago.. The problem is most likely the diode plate in the alternator.. I didn't want to repair so I changed the alternator and upto now no issues.. Hope this helps..

[maheshw]

i have repaired the alternator today. replaced 2 bearings & 2 brushes. now the lights are not flickering. charging rate also in between 13 to 14. ran about 20km's & it seems the problem is now ok.

tx every one for the comments.

[MkX]

Where u did that?

[maheshw]

my mechanic is in sirimalwatta kandy. il give u the details tomorrow

[Rumesh88]

@maheshw - your observations in post #4 does not tally with the final solution. BTW what matters is that it is solved now. So be happy!

[Reckless]

Glad you got it sorted out!

[maheshw]

@ Reckless & Rumesh88 yep i thought it will make a big hole on my pocket. luckily just 2600/-. tx every one....

[maheshw]

Sadly the problem starts again from last weekend after around 2500 Km's check the alternator output with same electrician. charging is ok but lights flickering. but some times it's not there. so he suggest to meet my garage man it myt an efi issue

so went to c my honda man & he wanted me to replace the alternator as CDI unit is faulty and it's comon in ek3's ?? with out checking by using any gadjet

now again to my electrician & plan to take the whole thing out & check one by one

what can be the issue? will a repair gives a better out put or need a replacement?

i dont like to go for a used\reconditioned one as i dont know it's condition and need to repair this some how.

in general, CDI & regulator both same ?

[Rumesh88]

See my post #12 above. Observations and the solution did not make sense. However, now that the issue is back why not revisit YRD's post #8 above?

[maheshw]

Agreed Rumesh88 . simply that means even the alternator out put is correct there can be a faulty in diode plate or etc. repair or replacement ? any idea?

[Rumesh88]

  On 3/12/2014 at 10:51 AM, maheshw said:

Agreed Rumesh88 . simply that means even the alternator out put is correct there can be a faulty in diode plate or etc. repair or replacement ? any idea?

Your alternator output is NOT correct. If it was you would n't be having flickering lights. Do you now get a steady reading of around 13.8 to 14.2V or a reading of 15V like what you used to get? Also any retrofit loads like audio set up etc? If you still get a reading of 15V you need to replace the regulator and diode set (comes in one assembly) or the whole thing. Check the pricing and take a decision.

Edited March 12, 2014 by Rumesh88

[maheshw]

now the reading is between 13.8 to 14.3-4 .earlier it was 15v but the lights are flickering. btw regulator & cdi both are same ?

[Rumesh88]

  On 3/12/2014 at 3:26 PM, maheshw said:

now the reading is between 13.8 to 14.3-4 .earlier it was 15v but the lights are flickering. btw regulator & cdi both are same ?

No. In automobile terminology CDI stands for Capacitor Discharge Ignition which has nothing to do with an alternator regulator in a car (in a motorcycle these two things have bit of a close association of course). Your observations are not very consistent. Now that you have the correct charge voltage can you get your electrician to see if the battery voltage (measured at its terminals) and alternator output (measured between alternator body and the terminal on the alternator) are equal (or within 0.1V) with all electrical loads on and engine at 2000rpm?

[Sylvi]

maheshw and Members,

Rumesh88 gives a correct explanation on CDI and automobile external Alternator regulator.

Most electricians say voltage should be 14.2 Volts DC. My observations, are ranging from 14 volts to 14.5.

Flickering lights cannot be due to overcharge 15 volts DC. You accelerate the engine.

If the alternator is producing more volts the head lights will get bright and when you decelerate the will become dim.

Consult a good automobile electrician for a correct diagnosis.

Sylvi Wijesinghe.

[maheshw]

ok romesh thanks. i will check this & update you.

[Ek3 Ferio]

I had to replace my Ek3's alternator 3 years back and did it with a recon one for 6000, still no issues with it. almost 50000kms done now after the replacement.