Car Vibrates-Plz Help

kmcsb · January 10, 2014

mine eg8 single carb and last few days im have noticed a problem tht is car vibrates when rolling up windows,and put headlights..

i consulted honda specilist but he told me thts normal battery is charginig well..hes just cleaning my teminals and earth wire..tht's it..but isue is still there..... this is very pain in my neck...

i just replazed my battery 2months ago also..

i noticed somtimes i rolling up windows my gauge meters lights get dimmer...

plz help guys...

Rumesh88 · January 10, 2014

Usual BS of some of our so called specialists. EG8 has load detection (ELD) and idle boost. When you have more load on the alternator the idle boost solenoid operates and keep the idle steady. Get the vacuum line #20 (marked on the hose) checked all the way to idle boost throttle controller (dash pot) for leaks and then the boost control solenoid for operation. Also the idle boost adjustment (did someone meddle with the carb settigs recently?). Hope the PGM unit does not display and errors (no blinks). If it does your ELD may be faulty.

Edited January 10, 2014 by Rumesh88

Komisiripala · January 10, 2014

O___O hot damn Rumesh you really do deserve the noob of the year award! (I mean that in a good way although it doesn't sound like it!)

MkX · January 10, 2014

True he really knows what he is talking about. Almost every reply of him brings lot of depth and technicality to the topic.

kmcsb · January 10, 2014

On 1/10/2014 at 3:35 AM, Rumesh88 said:
Usual BS of some of our so called specialists. EG8 has load detection (ELD) and idle boost. When you have more load on the alternator the idle boost solenoid operates and keep the idle steady. Get the vacuum line #20 (marked on the hose) checked all the way to idle boost throttle controller (dash pot) for leaks and then the boost control solenoid for operation. Also the idle boost adjustment (did someone meddle with the carb settigs recently?). Hope the PGM unit does not display and errors (no blinks). If it does your ELD may be faulty.

hi canu upload pic of tht..im unable to find #20 hose.. also were is ELD..any pics??

i didint get any blink on PGM

Edited January 10, 2014 by kmcsb

Rumesh88 · January 10, 2014

On 1/10/2014 at 4:48 AM, Komisiripala said:
O___O hot damn Rumesh you really do deserve the noob of the year award! (I mean that in a good way although it doesn't sound like it!)

On 1/10/2014 at 4:57 AM, MkX said:
True he really knows what he is talking about. Almost every reply of him brings lot of depth and technicality to the topic.

Thank you guys for the complements

On 1/10/2014 at 5:09 AM, kmcsb said:

On 1/10/2014 at 5:09 AM, kmcsb said:
hi canu upload pic of tht..im unable to find #20 hose.. also were is ELD..any pics??
i didint get any blink on PGM

Hose markings may have disappeared by now. ELD is in the fuse box but do not worry about ELD first. See if the idle control dash pot operate when you switch on headlights. See this pic (had a problem with my imageshack too!!) for the dash pot. How about your idle boost for AC is it working?

http://imageshack.com/a/img6/2608/p3k9.jpg

Edited January 10, 2014 by Rumesh88

kmcsb · January 10, 2014

thanks rumesh.....i think idle boost work when i switch on AC.. (i feels my rpm gets high..) so ....how to chk dashpot is working???

Rumesh88 · January 10, 2014

On 1/10/2014 at 9:12 AM, kmcsb said:
thanks rumesh.....i think idle boost work when i switch on AC.. (i feels my rpm gets high..) so ....how to chk dashpot is working???

Just let the engine idle and reach working temperature for your idle to come down to 800 - 850 rpm range. Then while keeping an eye (or finger on the mechanism) on the dash pot, switch on the headlight. If the dash pot plunger retracts but the engine does not rev up then it is working and the adjustment is out ( if so, someone must have meddled with it). If it does not retract remove the vacuum pipe and check if there is any vacuum with your finger tip (close the pipe with finger tip quickly to prevent engine from stalling or better still stop the engine and restart keeping the hose closed). If there is vacuum but the pot fails retract then you can check the pot by using a syringe (need a large one like you get with printer ink refill kits) or you can connect a hose and simply suck (yuk! the taste and the health hazard) hard to activate it. If you do not get any vacuum to the pot trace the hose all the way inside the box (fitted to the firewall) until u get to the solenoid. On the other side of the solenoid you will have a hose from inlet manifold where you should have vacuum always. By this time you will be able to figure out what's wrong. I don't think the things which can go wrong beyond this point like ELD, PGM etc., are faulty. At least check up to this point for now.

kmcsb · January 10, 2014

ok thanks sir i'll chk and let you know..keep in touch

kmcsb · January 10, 2014

Ok i chked then i have notive my dashpot has 2lines/vaccum..and saw one vaccum hose name as 20..but other is uknown..so i just put headlights and remove #20 first nothing happend still vibrate..also took out second one also..same thing..then i refit 2 lines and put AC on..then i heard engine rev up..then i took out #20 nothing happend..still on rev up state..no vibratins ..then i tookout next hose(unknown #) then suddnly car gets vibrate..

So wht you think sir..im very thankful your giving hand like one of us..very appreciate..

Rumesh88 · January 10, 2014

This means your idle up for AC is working but not the other one and the dash pot is shared for both. I remember having two separate dash pots for this purpose but may be that was in non-JDMs. (I hope you remembered to close the hose with finger tip each time you removed the hoses. Otherwise engine tend to stall due to vacuum leak on inlet manifold). Now that you found the #20 hose trace it to its vacuum solenoid. This solenoid has a vacuum input coming from the manifold. See the presence of vacuum on the input side. If you get the vacuum on input side then the solenoid is faulty or it is not operating due to some reason. If there is no vacuum trace the input hose to manifold and see if there is any thing wrong.

Edited January 10, 2014 by Rumesh88

kmcsb · January 11, 2014

rumesh i chked and didnt get any vacum on input on solenoid..so??

Rumesh88 · January 11, 2014

On 1/11/2014 at 8:18 AM, kmcsb said:
rumesh i chked and didnt get any vacum on input on solenoid..so??

So.... be happy, you are well on your way to the target!

If there is no vacuum input to the solenoid you can physically trace the vacuum line to its origin at the manifold. If my memory serves me right this vacuum line should start from oe of the five ports on the thermo valve (remember the gadget ur AC mech messed up sometime back), or is it directly on the manifold. I cannot tell you off-hand to which switch outlet out of the five ports it connects to either. Best thing is to just tracing it physically. When you checked the vacuum input to solenoid was the car at normal working temperature or on cold start cycle? You may not get any vacuum on this line during cold start cycle when the revs are high anyway.

Did you wash or do something like applying high pressure air to clean the engine just before this fault appeared?

Reckless · January 11, 2014

On 1/10/2014 at 4:57 AM, MkX said:
True he really knows what he is talking about. Almost every reply of him brings lot of depth and technicality to the topic.

On 1/10/2014 at 4:48 AM, Komisiripala said:
O___O hot damn Rumesh you really do deserve the noob of the year award! (I mean that in a good way although it doesn't sound like it!)

I second that. He really knows his stuff. Keep up the good work Rumesh!

kmcsb · January 11, 2014

Rumrsh FYI- i just found that vaccum relasing valve tht my AC repait guy had tossed..and i replazed it and set the vaccum horses correctly..now doing revup in cold start is ok..

SO i think problem wont reletive from tht point..

I also notice tht another dashpot line (unknown) goes to AC idle up valve..

When i start on AC engine idle up..so no worries when Ac on..only thing is Car gets vibrate when putting headlights and rolling up/down shutters and press brake..

Pls hlp rumesh..will it be a electrical problem?? Tht electric guy told me tht car is charging very well..when i on headlight its suddly drop 12v and comes up 13.5v just a few seconds..(used voltermeter)

Rumesh88 · January 11, 2014

Just to put things in the right perspective...

You have two separate vacuum switches, one each for AC and heavy electrical load idle up. In your case the idle up mechanism for AC is OK. But the other one which is operated by sensing the electrical load seems to be the issue. Electrical load is sensed by the ELD unit (small unit with a 2-pin plug connected from underneath the fuse box) which in turn adjust the alternator output to suit the load condition. Same time the PGM operates the idle up vacuum solenoid thus keeping the battery charged even under heavy electrical loads. Assuming you have the original alternator in place, with engine at working temperature you should read 13.5V at battery terminals on low loads (ie. nothing switched on except the engine). If you put the headlights or AC on, the PGM sets the alternator output just above 14V (14.3 or so). This additional load ( both headlight and charge amps) slows the engine down unless the idle up mechanism kicks in. I have no reason to believe there is anything wrong with this part of the mechanism except the idle up. I will try to post a proper vacuum diagram coming Monday when I return to CBO.

kmcsb · January 11, 2014

Ok thanks rumesh.. Is tht mean my ELD unit got an issue or not?! I think i still having original alternator..but i heard some small noise (like bees ) from alternator as well..

also i refer my manual i think my engine doent have ELD unit....my engine just smiller to D13b2..
I have got fuse box diagrams but unable to locate ELD unit..

i think my one iis 94 civic Lx model....uk model

Edited January 13, 2014 by kmcsb

Rumesh88 · January 13, 2014

See if the dash pot shown in pic (not the encircled part) below operate when you switch the headlights on

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/194/gvmj.jpg

Also the ELD in the fuse box. But I don't think you have an issue with ELD.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/62/h91g.jpg

Edited January 13, 2014 by Rumesh88

kmcsb · January 13, 2014

my fuse box like this

i cant see any eld unit on tht...

tht dashpot item was replazed few months before..i think you probley rember it, tht was break some monthts backk.u have seen tht in my car....

finally i got tht part but when installing it 1st line was cracked by mechanic....thten he bypass it ... i think #18 vaccum line... then car works smoothley and begin to work cold start rev up also....

if i can i'll send a pic of tht.....

Edited January 14, 2014 by kmcsb

kmcsb · January 14, 2014

i think this is the vacuum diagram of my engile..yes its simiiler to d13b2.....but engine blocked as D15....anyways i upload photo tht for you waiting for answer...

http://s13.postimg.org/6oixvx2p3/vaccum.jpg

Edited January 14, 2014 by kmcsb

Rumesh88 · January 14, 2014

I can't believe this! first your thremo-valve was damaged by an AC mech. Now the mechanic who was fixing the replacement which you sourced with lot of difficulties broke its first line?When you say "first" is it the line closer to the manifold or the one outside? What do you mean by bypass? Did he plug the vacuum outlet? Please keep in mind just because ur cold idle is OK that doesn't mean your thermo-valve is OK if one line is broken and plugged. This valve is the origin for four (or five in your case I believe) vacuum ports. Above diagram may not be the exact one for your car (you may not have nine vacuum lines going into the control box. How many actually?). I was looking for one but couldn't find in my old CDs.

Your car is not equipped with an ELD then. Then all what happens is that the idle up vacuum solenoid may operate but not rev up the engine. Just see if there is any vacuum line which was kept plugged (bypassed one!) is now open.

kmcsb · January 14, 2014

yep i found tht thermo valve with very difficulty....but he is twist wehn installing..line is closer one..its printed as #18.....ooops then i should need to fnd anther one...ohhhhh...rumesh do yuo know ay plz to get tht thing..this one is recondition part also......ooops....

i hav it part number -17350-PM3-013...

Rumesh88 · January 15, 2014

On 1/14/2014 at 10:55 AM, kmcsb said:
yep i found tht thermo valve with very difficulty....but he is twist wehn installing..line is closer one..its printed as #18.....ooops then i should need to fnd anther one...ohhhhh...rumesh do yuo know ay plz to get tht thing..this one is recondition part also......ooops....
i hav it part number -17350-PM3-013...

If No. 18 port is broken, is the vacuum line left open? I do not know a place to source the thermo-valve but next time you find one somehow finding a mechanic to fix it would be even more difficult.