Help With My Eg8

Rumesh88 · July 14, 2014

For the moment forget about EACV and focus on the idle boost. Do you get vacuum on hose no. 20 when you switch on head lights. If the answer is NO, then see if the valve connected it (inside the box) operate and has vacuum at its input. I have not seen the small filter here but may be available if you search for it.

kmcsb · July 14, 2014

still no vaccum from #20 when switching on headlights...i chked tht both alve are connect to the solenoid valve..

oops tht means i have to laofed more to sech tht air filter..ohh..its coded C422 on top of filter..but no brand..

kmcsb · July 15, 2014

Rumesh88 · July 15, 2014

What's going on? Vacuum input is from No. 12 hose. It is then distributed to five valves including the Idle Boost Solenoid valve. If you suspect the valve you can temporarily bypass the No 20 hose directly on to vacuum distributor and start the engine without AC and without lights. In this case the dash pot at the carb end of hose No. 20 should retract and boost the idle. Then the fault must be with either the idle control valve or the power to it. Air filter has nothing to do with this.

kmcsb · July 16, 2014

ok i"ll try..anyways rumesh will clogged pcv valve increasing fuel economy??.. rumesh i remove the box but i8 seen tht above pic is not the correct one...vaccum box like this...how these happend???

kmcsb · July 16, 2014

vaccum box like d13b2 ..but vacuum connection looks like d13b 1.3l engine...im confussed?????

Rumesh88 · July 16, 2014

On 7/16/2014 at 1:46 AM, kmcsb said:
vaccum box like d13b2 ..but vacuum connection looks like d13b 1.3l engine...im confussed?????

Still should not be a problem. No. 12 connects to a vacuum distributor connecting to 5 (4 in this case) other valves. One of those valves are connected to No.20. Now that is the idle boost valve. It is just a matter of finding out what prevents the vacuum at No. 12 getting through to No. 20 when you switch on headlights etc.

Edited July 16, 2014 by Rumesh88

kmcsb · July 16, 2014

aa right i got it..i"ll chk...wht do you think is tht my engine 13l or 1.5l....when i looked @book its engine capacity 1499cc...is it right or some has swapped??

kmcsb · July 31, 2014

On 7/9/2014 at 2:36 AM, H.C said:
I think I can help you , if you are willing to go in DIY path. Ive replaced my needles and gauge faces along with malfunctioned speedometer mechanism sometime back and encountered few of your issues. (You can easily remove the cluster and individual gauges after going through the service manual)
This is the fix for the temp gauge;

1).First remove the new gauge cluster and remove the top plastic cover.

2) Fix the cluster back temporally without the cover

3). Then start the vehicle and let it comes to working temperature. (Wait till your radiator fan comes on and off twice)

4.) According to your post now needle would be at H area.Then very gently turn the needle to normal position (just below the mid point in EGs). Then turn off the ignition and turn on again.

5).Then remove the cluster carefully without touching needles and put the cover back.

bro i just trapped on step 4....i just try to turn the needle to normal postion..but its going slowly goes up to h mark again as soon as i get off my fingers....then i turn off the ignition,gauge needle goes down to low position..then i turn on again..gauge go straight up-to H mark...

Edited July 31, 2014 by kmcsb

H.C · July 31, 2014

Ive made a mistake when writing it. Actually I had to remove the needle to swap it with a red one, so I was able to fix it back at the correct point of the dial when reinstalling. If you are 100% sure that your cooling system is fine you can remove the needle and fix it back at desired position. But its bit tricky thing to do and keep it as your last option.