Nissan Pulsar -Car Cranks But Won't Start (Ga15De-Engine)-Auto

[Nimz77]

need

need to crank engine two,three times.(15sec)..but when i park my car in the office ...after 6-8 hours same issue...delay start.any way im going to replace

Piston rings,valve oil seal,Gaskets....pls advise// do i need to use genuine piston rings? is there any alternative good brand?

total cost for parts :25K

[Nimz77]

Please let me know best place to get engine for nissan

Engine:-GA15DE

[The Don]

That particular engine is available everywhere. Delkanda and the Engine Watte in Panchikawatte will have them.

To be honest you should repair as you do not always know the state of the engine you are about to fit, particularly if you can get away with just replacing the ring set without re boring or re sleeving. This depends on the cylinder gap.

You should eliminate fuel delivery issues completely before you go ahead, and of course any issues with the coil packs. There must be standard ways of testing both. For fuel you are interested in fuel pressure to the injector rail. For coil packs whether its triggering the plugs with enough voltage.

Have you checked the plugs? How do they look? Are they spoiled?

[Nimz77]

That particular engine is available everywhere. Delkanda and the Engine Watte in Panchikawatte will have them.

To be honest you should repair as you do not always know the state of the engine you are about to fit, particularly if you can get away with just replacing the ring set without re boring or re sleeving. This depends on the cylinder gap.

You should eliminate fuel delivery issues completely before you go ahead, and of course any issues with the coil packs. There must be standard ways of testing both. For fuel you are interested in fuel pressure to the injector rail. For coil packs whether its triggering the plugs with enough voltage.

Have you checked the plugs? How do they look? Are they spoiled?

thanks...but engine cost will be 40-50k ,(only engine block)coil pack replacement done on two months ago..fuel pressure ok..plugs are black..(as per garage they said my car having some fuel burning issue .is this related to low engine compression?)

injectors checked at ASNU...they injectors are fine.

As per garage they said go for engine replacement.(without opening)

pls let me know best most reliable solution ?because repair cost = replacement engine cost

do i need to check my car at A*W?but no change for solution

Edited May 20, 2015 by Nimz77

[PerfMad]

@The Don - Can you tell me normally where can we do a compression test ? How much does it cost ? and whats the limit which requires engine overhaul ??

@Nimzz - What's the milage of your vehicle ?

Edited May 20, 2015 by PerfMad

[Rumesh88]

coil pack replacement done on two months ago..fuel pressure ok..plugs are black..(as per garage they said my car having some fuel burning issue .is this related to low engine compression?)

injectors checked at ASNU...they injectors are fine.

What were your ECO test report readings last time and when was it done? If the plugs are black there is every possibility of your engine having an issue with one or more of the sensors. Were the plugs dull black or shiny with oil deposits? Another thing you can do yourself to observe how bad (or good) the engine compression is to remove the oil cap while the engine running on idle and warmed up, and place the cap upside down on the opening. (Use a piece of rug to absorb possible oil spilling on the cam cover) The cap would vibrate up and down a bit with the engine beat but should remain stable. If the engine compression is so bad that the PCV path cannot take care of the pressure build up inside the crank case, the cap would pop up and down and be almost thrown off. (Here we assume that the PCV and rest of the path is clear. If you have lot of sludge build up on the inside of the cam cover/PCV valve you need to get those cleaned). Of course it is a subjective test and the judgement should be best left to an experienced mechanic but simple enough to try out.

[Nimz77]

@The Don - Can you tell me normally where can we do a compression test ? How much does it cost ? and whats the limit which requires engine overhaul ??

@Nimzz - What's the milage of your vehicle ?

130000Km..

Edited May 20, 2015 by Nimz77

[PerfMad]

130000Km..

Isn't it too early for an engine to worn out ?? assuming your ado meter readings are correct

[aps]

when i start my car in the morning, start in one ignition.but if car warmed i have to try ignition 2,3 time for start engine...

even no improvement after engine tuneup...pls advise...

no errors found for engine scan...

this problem related to coolant temp sensor???

I had same issue check ur plugs when it's not starting if lot of carbon in those may need to change CTS (coolant temp sensor) hope ur engine has MAP sensor not MAF others correct me if im wrong

[The Don]

@The Don - Can you tell me normally where can we do a compression test ? How much does it cost ? and whats the limit which requires engine overhaul ??

@Nimzz - What's the milage of your vehicle ?

Most garages should have the equipment. If not a place which does engine rebuilds like Edirisinghe bros can do it for you.

I've given a link above which tell you where the numbers should be, but there will be discrepencies depending on engine design. I have no idea about cost and its a simple process. A guague is attached to a pipe which is then screwed into the spark plug hold (with the plug out) and the engine is turned around to get a reading.

The mileage on car odometers are meaningless unless you have owned the car from new. Many have been tampered with.

And wear can be accelorated due to bad maintenance, particularly not changing oil on time, but also over revving the car frequently which can cause the piston chambers to get scorched and the valve seats to wear faster.

Carbon deposits on valves can become heated embers slowly melting through the valves which can cause compression leaks as well. Often this is associated with bad maintenance but also city driving whether the car spends most of the time at slow speeds on stop start traffic

Also when it comes to things like valve seats age also plays a part (and in SL fuel quality). No matter how low the mileage, they will start to leak as they become older and lose their suple qualities.

Also its very important to be objective here. You should eliminate the cheaper to fix issues first before thinking big.

Coolant temperature sensor should not have any bearing on cold crank. The MAF will, and many older chaps have issues with the MAF but a lot of the time the issues are obvious not when trying to start but when running, where you have issues with idle speed etc.

But the OP has more obvious issues. The most obvious symptom is the black spark plugs. Get back to Rumesh with the ECO test readings. Increased HC numbers usually indicate either incorrect fuel burn (too much fuel being injected) or oil in the combustion chamber.

[Nimz77]

What were your ECO test report readings last time and when was it done? If the plugs are black there is every possibility of your engine having an issue with one or more of the sensors. Were the plugs dull black or shiny with oil deposits? Another thing you can do yourself to observe how bad (or good) the engine compression is to remove the oil cap while the engine running on idle and warmed up, and place the cap upside down on the opening. (Use a piece of rug to absorb possible oil spilling on the cam cover) The cap would vibrate up and down a bit with the engine beat but should remain stable. If the engine compression is so bad that the PCV path cannot take care of the pressure build up inside the crank case, the cap would pop up and down and be almost thrown off. (Here we assume that the PCV and rest of the path is clear. If you have lot of sludge build up on the inside of the cam cover/PCV valve you need to get those cleaned). Of course it is a subjective test and the judgement should be best left to an experienced mechanic but simple enough to try out.

Pls find here my ECO test reading

Date:2014.01

HC

idle :508

2500rpm :276

Date:2015.01

HC

idle :455

2500rpm :180

plugs color is dull black

[Rumesh88]

Pls find here my ECO test reading

Date:2014.01

HC

idle :508

2500rpm :276

Date:2015.01

HC

idle :455

2500rpm :180

plugs color is dull black

To me it looks much like a case of rich fuel mixture. Do you get white smoke when you rev up when the engine is hot? Obviously the engine is somewhat worn out and may require an overhaul but in addition there seem to be an issue with the air/fuel mixture. Any idea if ASNU performed a leak test on injectors before claiming they are OK?

When you start in the morning or after office hours, turn the key to ignition but wait for another 10-15 seconds before turning the key to START and see if you observe a delay just like with the hot engine.

My opnion is to go ahead with the overhaul but anticipate a repair in either sensors (O2, MAP) or injectors. Of course after doing a repair many of the symptoms would disappear but you may not get much improvement in fuel consumption if the issues with mixture (if any) persist.

[Nimz77]

To me it looks much like a case of rich fuel mixture. Do you get white smoke when you rev up when the engine is hot? Obviously the engine is somewhat worn out and may require an overhaul but in addition there seem to be an issue with the air/fuel mixture. Any idea if ASNU performed a leak test on injectors before claiming they are OK?

When you start in the morning or after office hours, turn the key to ignition but wait for another 10-15 seconds before turning the key to START and see if you observe a delay just like with the hot engine.

My opnion is to go ahead with the overhaul but anticipate a repair in either sensors (O2, MAP) or injectors. Of course after doing a repair many of the symptoms would disappear but you may not get much improvement in fuel consumption if the issues with mixture (if any) persist.

as per asnu injectors are ok..i will try your advise for start and let you know...again thanks a lot..

any good place to buy GA15De engine ?

[The Don]

There isn't such a thing as a good place to buy an engine. They are available in Delkanda, and at various yards all over the country. They are also available in the area called engine watte in panchikawatte.

But personally unless its massively more expensive, I'd suggest repairing the existing engine. This is because the condition of a user engine is unknown and they wont give a warranty.

[Nimz77]

There isn't such a thing as a good place to buy an engine. They are available in Delkanda, and at various yards all over the country. They are also available in the area called engine watte in panchikawatte.

But personally unless its massively more expensive, I'd suggest repairing the existing engine. This is because the condition of a user engine is unknown and they wont give a warranty.

thanks...

[The Don]

thanks...

I replaced an engine with a top end hydraulic tappet issue on my Mirage. A couple of years after I can now hear the same tappet noise in the new engine too. So basically I have to get it fixed properly anyway. In this case I'll use a known fix of modified tappets and swap them in, and probably recondition the old engine as well and fix it back in.

Edited May 27, 2015 by The Don

[masoon]

Have u check the fuel filter and injector filters?

[Nimz77]

Have u check the fuel filter and injector filters?

Fuel Filter already replaced one month ago with nissan geniune,Injectors are ok as per ASNU LANKA

[Nimz77]

please let me know recommended compression Level for nissan pulsar (GA15de)

13bars for Each piston?

[The Don]

Nimz, you really need to be more proactive. At the moment I can see your thinking process is all over the place, and you are not thinking the problem through.

I think getting advice from multiple sources might be part of the issue, so the best thing to do is take the advice with a pinch of salt including ours and do a bit of research.

NEVER EVER EVER depend on just one opinion, however expert it might be when making a decision that will have significant financial implications. Always get a second opinion.

If you have already done a compression test, get it done by somebody else again. If ANSU has checked the injectors, get somebody else to check them again. All they will do is connect a fuel line to the injector and then trigger it by connecting wires to it. If a guy does not know how to do this, dismiss him/her as somebody who does not understand EFI systems.

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a8520/cars-101-how-to-do-a-compression-test-14912158/

http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-check-an-engines-cylinder-compression.html

Google is your friend!!! If you want to turn psi into bar, again Google is your friend! 100psi is around 6.9 bar

And to anybody wanting to give advice, please read the thread from the start rather than making random comments based on one response.

If you want a reliable compression test done, and your local garage guy does not have a guage, take it to Edirisinghe Brothers.

What is obvious up to now is there is extra hydro carbon being burnt in the combustion chamber. What is not clear is if it is oil or extra petrol (injector leak) and if it is oil, what is the source of oil (piston rings or valve seats).

Compression loss can occur for the following reasons

1. Leaking valves (valve guides or seats)

2. Leaking piston rings

3. Issues with the head gasket

To fix any of the above you have to take the head off, so you will need a new gasket set, and while the engine is open you might as well replace the piston rings and valve seats. So its roughly the same repair, unless the piston chamber is worn to a point you need to either rebore or resleeve, which is an extra cost.

[Nimz77]

Nimz, you really need to be more proactive. At the moment I can see your thinking process is all over the place, and you are not thinking the problem through.

I think getting advice from multiple sources might be part of the issue, so the best thing to do is take the advice with a pinch of salt including ours and do a bit of research.

NEVER EVER EVER depend on just one opinion, however expert it might be when making a decision that will have significant financial implications. Always get a second opinion.

If you have already done a compression test, get it done by somebody else again. If ANSU has checked the injectors, get somebody else to check them again. All they will do is connect a fuel line to the injector and then trigger it by connecting wires to it. If a guy does not know how to do this, dismiss him/her as somebody who does not understand EFI systems.

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a8520/cars-101-how-to-do-a-compression-test-14912158/

http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-check-an-engines-cylinder-compression.html

Google is your friend!!! If you want to turn psi into bar, again Google is your friend! 100psi is around 6.9 bar

And to anybody wanting to give advice, please read the thread from the start rather than making random comments based on one response.

If you want a reliable compression test done, and your local garage guy does not have a guage, take it to Edirisinghe Brothers.

What is obvious up to now is there is extra hydro carbon being burnt in the combustion chamber. What is not clear is if it is oil or extra petrol (injector leak) and if it is oil, what is the source of oil (piston rings or valve seats).

Compression loss can occur for the following reasons

1. Leaking valves (valve guides or seats)

2. Leaking piston rings

3. Issues with the head gasket

To fix any of the above you have to take the head off, so you will need a new gasket set, and while the engine is open you might as well replace the piston rings and valve seats. So its roughly the same repair, unless the piston chamber is worn to a point you need to either rebore or resleeve, which is an extra cost.

thanks don...

[PerfMad]

Guys just asking.. I know my quiz isn't related to this. But I don't want to create new thread to discuss this. Therefore following are my concerns;

I have a Mitsubishi cb1 car (1300 cc carb model) where I'm curious on doing the following may be someday

1. Is it possible to switch my carb engine with a EFI 1500 engine ?

2. If yes, what would be the best suitable engine (racing isn't my highest priority using this as a daily runner)?

3. What are the other things that should be changed along with this swap ?

4. roughly how much will it cost ? only for parts ?

Just curious to know that's it.. If anyone can help me out that would be great

Note : There are no issues with the carb, just curious to know the cost and needed parts that's all...

Cheers

[The Don]

Guys just asking.. I know my quiz isn't related to this. But I don't want to create new thread to discuss this. Therefore following are my concerns;

I have a Mitsubishi cb1 car (1300 cc carb model) where I'm curious on doing the following may be someday

1. Is it possible to switch my carb engine with a EFI 1500 engine ?

2. If yes, what would be the best suitable engine (racing isn't my highest priority using this as a daily runner)?

3. What are the other things that should be changed along with this swap ?

4. roughly how much will it cost ? only for parts ?

Just curious to know that's it.. If anyone can help me out that would be great

Note : There are no issues with the carb, just curious to know the cost and needed parts that's all...

Cheers

You are taking the thread OT.

I asume the current engine you have is a 4G13 carb version. Changing to a 1500cc in your case is relatively simple as the 4G15 EFI (there is a carb version as well) will drop right in without needing to fabricate anything.

You will definitely need

1. Engine

2. Gearbox

3. Wiring loom

4. ECU

5. Fuel pump and possibly fuel tank if the fuel pump cannot be installed into existing tank

6. New engine compartment fuse box which will complement the wiring loom.

7. Air filter box and lines

Apart from this you might need

1. New Radiator (if the 1500cc version has a different one, which I don't think is likely but needs to be checked)

2. Engine mounts (again you can probably get away with this)

3. Instrument cluster if your current one does not have the lights needed for the EFI system like check engine. I have a feeling they are the same with certain lights disabled but needs to be checked out

The cost, I have no idea. Probably going to be six figures.

A 4G15 carb model will be much simpler to drop in as you would probably only need engine and gearbox.

Edited May 29, 2015 by The Don

[Nimz77]

hi,,PerfMad...better if you can use another thread for Mitsubishi cb1....because this issue was related to Nissan.

[PerfMad]

hi,,PerfMad...better if you can use another thread for Mitsubishi cb1.. ..because this issue was related to Nissan.

Hi Nimz77 - No worries machan.. I got the required answer.. no more quizes related to this hehe

Cheers

Keep us posted with your update