Sloshing/splashing Sound From The Fuel Tank

Elrond · September 19, 2015

Hi All,

I've a 2003 Lancer CS3, and when braking and sometimes taking turns I'm hearing a sloshing/splashing sound which seems to be coming from the fuel tank.

This first came when the tank was about half full and went away when it was full, and it didn't occur for some months after that, until I started to hear it again few days back. The fuel level was near empty by that time, and the sound didn't go away even after pumping full tank.

Any idea on what might be causing this?

Thanks.

Davy · September 19, 2015

99% sure that there is water inside one or more of your doors due to the small drain holes being blocked. Take a small piece of metal wire and insert it to each drain line on the doors. Water should start pouring out from the doors that have blocked drains.

Seeker LK · September 20, 2015

I heard this noise after the service. Later relised that I had the oil can (rest of oil after filling) and coolant bottle.

Elrond · September 21, 2015

On 9/19/2015 at 10:57 AM, Davy said:
99% sure that there is water inside one or more of your doors due to the small drain holes being blocked. Take a small piece of metal wire and insert it to each drain line on the doors. Water should start pouring out from the doors that have blocked drains.

Thanks Davy, I will try that. Considering the occasional heavy rainfall these days in SL, what you have mentioned is probably the reason behind the sound. It never occurred to me!

On 9/20/2015 at 1:56 PM, Seeker LK said:
I heard this noise after the service. Later relised that I had the oil can (rest of oil after filling) and coolant bottle.

Thanks. I've checked that already, but there's nothing that could cause such a sound in my car.

Elrond · September 24, 2015

Today only I was able to attend this, and Yes, there was water inside the door as Davy has suggested! There was mud blocking the duct About 3 liters of water drained when I cleaned it!

Thanks again Davy!

Hope that door is not corroded from the inside.

Edited September 24, 2015 by Elrond

Davy · September 24, 2015

On 9/24/2015 at 2:46 AM, Elrond said:
Today only I was able to attend this, and Yes, there was water inside the door as Davy has suggested! There was mud blocking the duct About 3 liters of water drained when I cleaned it!
Thanks again Davy!

Hope that door is not corroded from the inside.

You're welcome! And thanks for getting back to us.

Since water was sitting inside your door for quite some time, surface rust might have formed inside the door. The door actually has a thick layer of rust protection on the bottom part, but this too might have given way. You can easily take the door cards out and examine this yourself. Let me know if you need step by step instructions on how to remove them on your CS3 and I will let you know.

Elrond · September 24, 2015

On 9/24/2015 at 4:03 AM, Davy said:
You're welcome! And thanks for getting back to us.
Since water was sitting inside your door for quite some time, surface rust might have formed inside the door. The door actually has a thick layer of rust protection on the bottom part, but this too might have given way. You can easily take the door cards out and examine this yourself. Let me know if you need step by step instructions on how to remove them on your CS3 and I will let you know.

It would be great if you can provide those steps Davy. Thanks for all the help!

Davy · September 25, 2015

On 9/24/2015 at 9:43 AM, Elrond said:
It would be great if you can provide those steps Davy. Thanks for all the help!

I was just about to write a whole heap of instructions from memory, but did a quick Google search to see if there's a YouTube video around with instructions. And I found one.

Please note that this is for the front doors, but the process is identical for the rear doors as well. After the screws have been removed, you have to separate the door card from the body by pulling on it with a bit of force. The door card actually "hangs" from the top and you have to lift it off the door.

To put it back, just do the steps in reverse order and you are good. Don't forget to reconnect the power window switch.

Good luck!

Rumesh88 · September 25, 2015

While you are at it be prepared to do whatever possible things to prevent this from happening again and to minimize the existing damage if any. Usually these drain holes get clogged up with dust combined with hardened grease from the power window mechanism or excess grease, penetrating oil etc applied on the door panels to prevent rusting. I make it a point to remove the door trim once in a year or so (takes two years sometimes ) and wash the interior with a cup of diesel and a paint brush. If rust has not set in yet you can leave the interior dry with only a WD40 spray on the metal parts. If it is already rusty and not considered immediately for repainting apply a layer of SAE90 gear oil. Also you can lubricate the exposed parts of the power window mechanism at the same time.

Elrond · September 29, 2015

On 9/25/2015 at 12:25 AM, Davy said:
I was just about to write a whole heap of instructions from memory, but did a quick Google search to see if there's a YouTube video around with instructions. And I found one.

Please note that this is for the front doors, but the process is identical for the rear doors as well. After the screws have been removed, you have to separate the door card from the body by pulling on it with a bit of force. The door card actually "hangs" from the top and you have to lift it off the door.

To put it back, just do the steps in reverse order and you are good. Don't forget to reconnect the power window switch.

Good luck!

Thanks Davy. I still couldn't get into that; will update the thread once I do it.

On 9/25/2015 at 4:47 AM, Rumesh88 said:
While you are at it be prepared to do whatever possible things to prevent this from happening again and to minimize the existing damage if any. Usually these drain holes get clogged up with dust combined with hardened grease from the power window mechanism or excess grease, penetrating oil etc applied on the door panels to prevent rusting. I make it a point to remove the door trim once in a year or so (takes two years sometimes ) and wash the interior with a cup of diesel and a paint brush. If rust has not set in yet you can leave the interior dry with only a WD40 spray on the metal parts. If it is already rusty and not considered immediately for repainting apply a layer of SAE90 gear oil. Also you can lubricate the exposed parts of the power window mechanism at the same time.

Thanks for the advice Rumesh88! Apparently that door had been damaged by an accident (by a previous owner) and repaired. Maybe that has to do something with the clogging. Holes in the other 3 doors were very clean.

Elrond · October 3, 2015

Removed the door panel today Some images attached.

Seems the condition is not as bad as I imagined. There are some rust, but the bottom coating haven't completely given up yet, though it's started to peel off. And seems what's blocking the drain hole time-to-time is that dried-and-peeled-off coating + grease.

I'm going to sand and apply anti-corrosive paint to the places I can.

Davy · October 3, 2015

Good work! That doesn't look bad at all. The unpainted metal bracket is the door pull support and it's natural for it to develop surface rust. I sanded and painted all four when I had my CS3.

Elrond · October 3, 2015

Thanks Davy. That video was very helpful!

Yes, I sanded and painted that metal bracket and all the visible/reachable rust on the door. I wonder why the manufacturer doesn't paint those metal parts.

I'm sure once water gets inside the door that dried coating will get peeled-off and block the drain hole again. But, I can periodically check/clean those holes.

At least now I know the doors are still in good condition