Diy-Petrol Injector Cleaning

[LancerL]

I’m planing to clean my Petrol injectors tomorrow and think of doing it as below on Youtube.

Has anyone here done this before?

What is the recommended voltage to be given as pulse? I guess connecting 12V 45A car battery will not be recommended!

What would be the Syringe size that could fix in to the injector neck?

Does reverse cleaning required to take out any dirt clogged on inside injector filter?

Thanks

Edited October 30, 2015 by LancerL

[Aquaman]

if you went as far as removing the injectors, why dont you take them to place like ASNU as this will clearly destroy an expensive part.

[Rumesh88]

No I haven't done it before but can give some insights into the other things you have asked for. Injectors are driven by a 12V supply but only for a very short period like 1-3 ms initially until the current ramps up to a value of 4-5 amps (peak current) and then the current is reduced to around 1/4 of the above value (hold current) all under ECU control. If you can use a 12V 1A adapter as your power supply and operate the injector through a momentary switch you should be fine or if you are using a 12V car battery take care to operate the momentary switch only momentarily but do not hold it for too long.

Syringes comes in various sizes from 1ml and above. The one used in above video is 5ml. That should work for you with a bit of improvisation. Yes you may have to do reverse cleaning as well. However, make sure that you do not introduce any dust, debris, whatever loose particles etc into the syringe and the injectors. Also you may have to replace the rubber seal at the engine end of the injector because it is normal for these seals to get hardened and cracked due to heat from the engine causing a vacuum leak.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Edited October 30, 2015 by Rumesh88

[kusumsiri]

Hi LancerL,

Recommended voltage : 12v. They always getting 12v. So it will not be a issue. Don't need to worry about the current (45Ah or whatever the battery power) as injectors will suck necessary current which it need.

Good luck with weekend DIY task. I always like DIY jobs. Like to know update once done it.

[LancerL]

Thanks for the valuable inputs!

I started my DIY project yesterday morning as below.

You can see the pictures with steps as it could help somebody to save money.

Things Used:

• B*G Throttle body and air intake cleaner (I already brought this sometime back to clean throttle body)
• About 1Ft transparent rubber horse.
• Metal Cable tie.
• 5 inch metal binding string.
• Rubber band
• Glass bowl.
• De-Rust spray cane (this also I brought earlier for a different task)

First I removed two screws holding the fuel rail from the intake manifold and taken the manifold out with injectors.

Then I have taken out injectors one by one from fuel rail safely. Injector body were so dirty with all the dust and oil, also it’s spraying nozzle too had some carbon deposits (You can see this on the picture)

I took all four and cleaned the body with De-Rust spray, I done this by sealing both ends of the injector by fingers to avoid chemical getting inside.

While the body cleaned and drying, I expanded one end of the rubber hose by heating it with a candle flame gently to the correct size of the injector neck.

Then I twisted a rubber band to the spray nozzle of the B*G cane to fix the gap between the hose and tighten up with a metal binding string.

For the electric supply, first I tried with a 4.2V 0.5A (My torch Charger) power supply and that was not capable of making a noise least. While rotating around I found my Dialog TV power supply seen in the picture with 12v 1.5A which was decent enough to make the injector works.

Once everything in place I started fixing one injector at a time and doing reverse flushing to clear out any dirt in the inside filter. Thereafter forward flushing has started as the same way and observed the spray pattern and any leakages, the pattern was good and no abnormality found. (I could not take any photos of this as I couldn’t hold the camera since my both hands were engaged)

After all I cleaned all four with a dry towel and let dry further.

Cleaned the fuel rail and intake manifold holes with a dry tissue to remove any deposits and fixed all four back to the rail and then to the manifold and tighten with two bolts.

Checked couple of times for any loosed parts by shaking the fuel rail and injectors and found no issue.

Turned the key to the ignition mood let the pump to pressurize the rail with fuel and checked against any leaks.

Cranked engine for couple of times to start and it got started without a big hesitation.

Let engine to run 3-5 mins and observed and leakages, revved the engine about up to 5,000 RPM couple of times and checked any abnormalities or leaks.

Disconnected positive terminal of the battery for about 3hours to flush ECU memory and reconnected. Started the engine and let it to run on idle till operating temperature, for ECU to re-learn new fuel patterns. Taken a test drive for about 2KMs for further ECU learning and find any post issues.

Everything was in order and the car was perfectly smoother than ever, including pickup and idle rhythm.

But one issue I had been not solved with this it seems as the random engine miss and fuel smell I get on cold start is still there. When I started it today morning in cold weather I got that back again and disappeared in a while.

Edited November 2, 2015 by LancerL

[LancerL]

Edited November 2, 2015 by LancerL

[kusumsiri]

Hi LancerL,

Its happy about your success DIY injector cleaning talk. I believe every driver must have some kind of hands on skills about his vehicle. I have seen some people who can not install spare wheel properly.

[LancerL]

  On 11/1/2015 at 3:31 PM, kusumsiri said:

Hi LancerL,

Its happy about your success DIY injector cleaning talk. I believe every driver must have some kind of hands on skills about his vehicle. I have seen some people who can not install spare wheel properly.

Yah 100% agreed with you..

BTW nice pic

[VVTi]

Did you see a difference in the stream before and after the clean up? Physical cleanliness of the injector surface is irrelevant. What is key is the change in the spray pattern.

[chan5]

I do back The VVTi here.it's the pattern of spray and timing of electronic pulse.which is difficult to assess without proper tools.physical cleanliness is irrelevant for that.

[Davy]

Nicely done LancerL! Although this method may not clean the injectors as thoroughly as it would compared to professional methods, this is a good way to quickly clean the injectors to get rid of obvious blocks. I guess you felt that the drive is much smoother because the injectors were cleaned considerably well.

Some important things to remember:

- Not all injectors are 12v. Some operate at a much lower voltage, so supplying 12v would fry them.

- Always keep the carb cleaner flowing into the injector to prevent it from "starving".

[MAS]

What was the mileage on the injectors before you cleaned them ? Is this the first time they were ever cleaned ?

[LancerL]

  On 11/3/2015 at 1:48 PM, MAS said:

What was the mileage on the injectors before you cleaned them ? Is this the first time they were ever cleaned ?

Didn't clean it earlier.. But not sure about the previous owener.

So could be the first time as there were lots of deposit on it.

[aps]

  On 11/1/2015 at 2:28 PM, LancerL said:

check for vacuum leaks, horse going in & out, TB seating, metal cable ties etc etc

Note : i had a bad miss like u said, after repairing brake booster(vacuum leak) it disappeared, mileage reading jump from 12 Km/l to 14Km/l (out station with A/C)

[LancerL]

  On 11/4/2015 at 5:58 AM, aps said:

check for vacuum leaks, horse going in & out, TB seating, metal cable ties etc etc

Note : i had a bad miss like u said, after repairing brake booster(vacuum leak) it disappeared, mileage reading jump from 12 Km/l to 14Km/l (out station with A/C)

Hi aps

Your miss also comes in first start and goes away in few seconds or it keeps on missing even when engine running hot?

Also did you get fuel smell from the tail pipe?

Edited November 4, 2015 by LancerL

[LancerL]

Engine miss and petrol smell issue has been solved by finding a vacuum leak on a injector Oring.

You can get the full update of the solution by below link.

http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/17113-engine-miss-petrol-smell-in-cold-start/page-2#entry288019

Thanks a lot for the support.

[Twin Turbo]

You can spare yourself a lot of headaches by

1.Carrying out gen maintenance,+ addng a fuel sys cleaner/treatment

2. not driving on E- as an empty tank will rust from inside, and the rust will eventually get loose and clog your fuel system

:

[terrabytetango]

Did not really bother reading this thread till now. Great bit of DIY. I was thinking that for testing injector operation, one could easily build a modulator using an Arduino.

Edit: and obviously it has been done

Edited January 12, 2016 by terrabytetango

[Rumesh88]

Just thought of adding a few lines to the DIY process after observing a couple of incidents while removing, cleaning and fixing back the fuel injectors.

1. Make sure you do not drop injectors on the floor or any hard surface. Although the injector in OP's case does not have it, some of them (Ex: Aisan) injectors come with a hard plastic ring at the rail end. This is very brittle and prone to damage. (saw it happened to a Hornet injector ).

2. In OP's case you get O-rings at both ends of the injector which is somewhat easier to mount than those injectors that are mounted on a rubber washer at the intake manifold end. For such cases, insert all the washers into the intake manifold first, mount the injectors on to the rail and then insert all the injectors at the same time into the intake manifold after carefully aligning each with the rubber washers. If you try to insert the fuel rail last it may result in damage to the O-rings. Also it is better to lubricate the injector ends very lightly with little engine oil so that they can be inserted easily thus preventing possible damage to O-rings and washers.

3. If the rubber washers and O-rings are old (say, more than 50k Kms service life, just my own yard stick) better to replace them for they may have lost their resilience after being subjected to thousands of heat cycles. Washers and O-rings are freely available at various prices according to your taste .