2004 lancer ECU ignition signal lost after t belt teeth loss

[RoshanDknight]

 

Hey guys, i'm a newbie here. I got a 2004 lancer CS1 1300cc (4G13 16v EFI) Manual, brandnew imported one. It has 170000 on the clock upto now. It all begun before 2 months. After the timing belts' teeth loss, one of the two ignition signals which are coming into the coilpacks have lost. So we thought its because of t belt so we fixed new valves(some of the existed valves were bend) and put a new belt on relevent timing. But still the problem is there as only one side is getting the ignition signal and has the spark when chanking.  So we guess the problem is with the ECU. Some electronic engineers have tried to repair it but they couldn't. It's number is MN131011. I tried to find an ECU with that number but  it's not exist. Well, what should I suppose to do now? Please help ? ? 

Edited November 4, 2016 by RoshanDknight

[RoshanDknight]

Okay guys finally.. found the error ! It was the ECU itself n the systemtic data is somehow jammed which is stored in the main IC controller. The angel who really awakened my sweety is that guy called ECU chaminda in wattala. It took 3 long longer longest hell like months to get this vehicle started.. ?? ? but he took only 4days to get my bae back to life ??? I whould recommend him for any ECU regarding problems cuz there was only 10% of chance at repairing my stock ECU !

Edited November 30, 2016 by RoshanDknight

[Jor-el]

Are you sure the part number is correct? Is your car a manual?

[Jor-el]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MITSUBISHI-LANCER-00-08-1-3-16V-60KW-4G13-ENGINE-CONTROL-ECU-MODULE-UNIT/281946708042

[RoshanDknight]

Ya um sure of it bro. It's MN131011. Manual. Is it correct that we need this exact number to be matched with the vehicles' immobilizer system ?

 

Edited November 6, 2016 by RoshanDknight

[RoshanDknight]

We have put an ECU with a different number which is starting with MN13####. Well, the car just starts but doesn't control any engine managements as it supposed to be other than producing ignition pulse, injector timing and fuel pumping. Plus, that ECU gave us various codes like O2 sensor, idle control valve failure etc.

[Davy]

The ignition signal is determined (by the ECU) by looking at the signal from the crankshaft position sensor. When your timing belt slipped, the crankshaft would have ended up in a different position than normal which would have caused the sensor to pick up the signal at different time than when the ignition coil (that supplies current to two plugs) requires a trigger. 

So my guess is that whoever carried out the repair messed up alignment of timing marks when installing the new belt. I can't see how the factory ECU could fail just because the belt slipped.

Take the car to a good garage, or better - the agents themselves and explain the situation and get it sorted. Make sure you put that old ECU back in. 

Good luck and keep us posted. 

Edited November 5, 2016 by Davy

[RoshanDknight]

 

15 hours ago, Davy said:

The ignition signal is determined (by the ECU) by looking at the signal from the crankshaft position sensor. When your timing belt slipped, the crankshaft would have ended up in a different position than normal which would have caused the sensor to pick up the signal at different time than when the ignition coil (that supplies current to two plugs) requires a trigger. 

So my guess is that whoever carried out the repair messed up alignment of timing marks when installing the new belt. I can't see how the factory ECU could fail just because the belt slipped.

Take the car to a good garage, or better - the agents themselves and explain the situation and get it sorted. Make sure you put that old ECU back in. 

Good luck and keep us posted. 

 Thanks for concerning about this bro..

I'm pretty sure about t belt timing is in the nessesary position cuz it has been fixed by my machanic who was previously working for 16years in mitsubishi car department, so it's hard to guess that he mis-align the timing when he put the new belt. And i was there near him when he said crank and cam marks are in the correct position but it's getting 1mm like difference in the cam position when putting the new belt in order to fit the teeth with cam pully. Then i checked the new belt for any teeth difference but it's 109 as same as the previous one. So he said it's not a problem. 

You won't believe this is the original ECU with Immobilizer for this car but it doesn't throw a single code even if i unplug both O2 sensors, idle control valve. But for other units like thermostat sensor, fan control sensor, MAP sensor, it throws some code when they are unpluged. Well, it doesn't throw any codes now.

i can confirm that crank sensors n cam sensors are good and there is the pulse coming from the ECU to one coil as it suppose to be. We have checked for the pulse with a multimeter and found that the other one also giving a pulse but, it's so damn weak. And when we cliped the coils and checking for a spark, we also saw, after I stop cranking and turn key to off position, one single spark is coming from that "not working" coil.

As for your concern, i have taken this car to 4 garages and none of them had the knowledge to let me out of this nightmare! now it's been 3 months without my car n I'm about to go crazy :-( . All those garage punks were boasting about themselfs like "we have taken care of dosens of lancers like this" "oooh, this isn't a big deal, son" "lancer? piece of cake bro " 

Such a retards. ( those are the best garages as most people say aroud colombo district )

Edited November 6, 2016 by RoshanDknight

[Davy]

27 minutes ago, RoshanDknight said:

 

 Thanks for concerning about this bro..

I'm pretty sure about t belt timing is in the nessesary position cuz it has been fixed by my machanic who was previously working for 16years in mitsubishi car department, so it's hard to guess that he mis-align the timing when he put the new belt. And i was there near him when he said crank and cam marks are in the correct position but it's getting 1mm like difference in the cam position when putting the new belt in order to fit the teeth with cam pully. Then i checked the new belt for any teeth difference but it's 109 as same as the previous one. So he said it's not a problem. 

You won't believe this is the original ECU for this car but it doesn't throw a single code even if i unplug both O2 sensors, airbag sensor, idle control valve. But for other units like thermostat sensor, fan control sensor, MAP sensor, it throws some code when they are unpluged. Well, it doesn't throw any codes now.

i can confirm that there is the pulse coming from the ECU to one coil. We have checked using a multimeter and have seen that the other one also giving a pulse but, it's so damn weak. And when we cliped the coils and checking for a spark, we also saw, after I stop cranking and turn key to off position, one single spark is coming from that "not working" coil.

As for your concern, i have taken this car to 4 garages and none of them had the knowledge to let me out of this nightmare! now it's been 3 months gone without my car n I'm about to go crazy cuz of dissapointment :-( . All those garage punks were bosting about themselfs like "we have taken care of dosens of lancers like this" "oooh, this isn't a big deal, man" "lancer? piece of cake bro " 

Such a retards. ( those are the best garages as most people say aroud colombo district )

I see. I think your best bet to identifying the issue is to first get the crank position sensor checked out. The sensor has three wires (I fail to remember the colour codes now because it has been a long time) and you need to perform three tests using a multimeter.

Note that all the tests need to be done with the ignition in ON position with multimeter in DC, and the ignition coils disconnected from the connectors. If your mechanic has experience as you say, he would know where to find the crank position sensor connector. You can basically access it from the top of the engine.

1. Positive: Check the + of the sensor with the chassis of the car or battery negative terminal. It should give a 12v reading.

2. Ground: Check the ground line of the sensor against the battery positive terminal. This too should give 12v.

3. Signal: Check the signal line of the sensor against chassis of the car (or battery negative) while someone manually spins the crankshaft with a tool attached to the sprocket. You should see the voltage alternate between 0 and 5V, twice between one revolution of the crankshaft.

Again, if your mech has the said experience, he should be knowing all this. You can also refer to the workshop manuals that are already shared in the forum in this thread.

Also, have you considered that the camshaft might be out of balance or something due to the timing belt slippage? Considering that your valves were also bent, this is something I would look into since you say there is a 1mm difference in alignment.

Hope this helps and do keep us updated.

[Davy]

4 minutes ago, RoshanDknight said:

Okay guys finally.. found the error ! It was the ECU itself n the systemtic data is somehow jammed which is stored in the main IC controller. The angel who really awakened my sweety is that guy called ECU chaminda in wattala. I whould recommend him for any ECU regarding problems cuz there was only 10% of chance at repairing my stock ECU !

Glad you managed to sort it out. Thanks for reporting back.