Hyundai Santa Fe - Urgent help!

[john cooper]

Hi team,

 

I’m considering purchasing a 2022 Hyundai Santa Fe CRDi with the 8-speed DCT (Dual-Clutch Transmission), which has done close to 200,000 km. The vehicle is being sold through a damage auction tomorrow, the 23rd Oct lol 😅

I’ve test driven the vehicle twice on separate days:

First Test Drive:

• The vehicle needed to be jump-started as it was hesitant to start.

• After starting, I let it idle for around 5 minutes.

• The drive was smooth with no noticeable issues during that session.

Second Test Drive (a couple of weeks later from the 1st test):

• Again, the car required a jump-start.

• I let it idle for 5–10 minutes before shifting into Drive.

• This time, the transmission started in D2 instead of D1.

• After moving a few feet, the car stopped responding to throttle input and would not rev up.

• I shifted into Reverse, but the car didn’t move. The “R” indicator on the dashboard was blinking, and again, it hesitated to rev or engage.

• Switching back to Drive, it continued to start in D2 and showed the same symptoms. No warning lights (Check Engine, Transmission, or Battery) were present on the dashboard.

To troubleshoot:

• I turned the car off, got out, locked the doors, waited for about 30 seconds, and then restarted the vehicle.

• This time, it started normally.

• Drive engaged with D1, and Reverse also worked as expected.

• I drove the car for around 20 minutes, and it operated normally with no issues.

• After returning, I turned the vehicle off and restarted it multiple times, testing both Drive and Reverse, but could not replicate the earlier problem.

Question:

Could this issue be related to low battery voltage affecting the solenoids in Transmission or TCM? Or is it more likely to be a transmission (DCT) issue?

Edited October 21 by john cooper

[iRage]

On 10/21/2025 at 8:24 AM, john cooper said:

Hi team,

 

I’m considering purchasing a 2022 Hyundai Santa Fe CRDi with the 8-speed DCT (Dual-Clutch Transmission), which has done close to 200,000 km. The vehicle is being sold through a damage auction tomorrow, the 23rd Oct lol 😅

I’ve test driven the vehicle twice on separate days:

First Test Drive:

• The vehicle needed to be jump-started as it was hesitant to start.

• After starting, I let it idle for around 5 minutes.

• The drive was smooth with no noticeable issues during that session.

Second Test Drive (a couple of weeks later from the 1st test):

• Again, the car required a jump-start.

• I let it idle for 5–10 minutes before shifting into Drive.

• This time, the transmission started in D2 instead of D1.

• After moving a few feet, the car stopped responding to throttle input and would not rev up.

• I shifted into Reverse, but the car didn’t move. The “R” indicator on the dashboard was blinking, and again, it hesitated to rev or engage.

• Switching back to Drive, it continued to start in D2 and showed the same symptoms. No warning lights (Check Engine, Transmission, or Battery) were present on the dashboard.

To troubleshoot:

• I turned the car off, got out, locked the doors, waited for about 30 seconds, and then restarted the vehicle.

• This time, it started normally.

• Drive engaged with D1, and Reverse also worked as expected.

• I drove the car for around 20 minutes, and it operated normally with no issues.

• After returning, I turned the vehicle off and restarted it multiple times, testing both Drive and Reverse, but could not replicate the earlier problem.

Question:

Could this issue be related to low battery voltage affecting the solenoids in Transmission or TCM? Or is it more likely to be a transmission (DCT) issue?

Oh gosh...didn't see this.

A lot of what you described sounds like the car going into limp mode (driving off on D2 instead of D1 to reduce load, etc..). A quick check of forums indicates that the flashing R is typically an indication of the TCM throwing a fault. Considering the battery was low at the beginning and probably got charged up after a 20-minute drive it very well could be that the TCM was not getting enough power (at the beginning).

If there was an issue with the transmission itself then I believe there would be more symptoms either at start or during your drive (shuddering start, hesitant gear changes or slips, etc...)

  

[john cooper]

2 hours ago, iRage said:

Oh gosh...didn't see this.

A lot of what you described sounds like the car going into limp mode (driving off on D2 instead of D1 to reduce load, etc..). A quick check of forums indicates that the flashing R is typically an indication of the TCM throwing a fault. Considering the battery was low at the beginning and probably got charged up after a 20-minute drive it very well could be that the TCM was not getting enough power (at the beginning).

If there was an issue with the transmission itself then I believe there would be more symptoms either at start or during your drive (shuddering start, hesitant gear changes or slips, etc...)

  

Thank you, iRage, for the quick note.

The car was faultless after running for a good 20 minutes.
I will keep you all posted tomorrow morning, if I have won it or not

[john cooper]

Okay, here it is and I won the auction for 2022 Santa Fe Diesel

Now let's get the Battery replaced.

This has a CCA 660 Euro type battery. I believe there is no harm in going to 720 CCA???

 

[iRage]

2 hours ago, john cooper said:

Okay, here it is and I won the auction for 2022 Santa Fe Diesel

Now let's get the Battery replaced.

This has a CCA 660 Euro type battery. I believe there is no harm in going to 720 CCA???

 

❤️

That looks wonderful!

As long as it fits moving from 660 to 720 won't be an issue. In fact, the higher CCA means there would be less internal resistance so it would help keep sensors, etc...a bit more stable during crank.

I hope the transmission issues will get sorted out and there is nothing seriously wrong with it. I am sure your next stop would be to get a diagnostic done...(you might have to reset some error codes anyway)

[john cooper]

2 hours ago, iRage said:

❤️

That looks wonderful!

As long as it fits moving from 660 to 720 won't be an issue. In fact, the higher CCA means there would be less internal resistance so it would help keep sensors, etc...a bit more stable during crank.

I hope the transmission issues will get sorted out and there is nothing seriously wrong with it. I am sure your next stop would be to get a diagnostic done...(you might have to reset some error codes anyway)

The online tool indicates that the Century DIN75LHX MF Ultimate Performance is the fitment for the car, CCA 730

Once installed, I would get a code reader guy to clear all the fault codes.

Finers and Toes crossed, no gearbox issue

[iRage]

8 hours ago, john cooper said:

The online tool indicates that the Century DIN75LHX MF Ultimate Performance is the fitment for the car, CCA 730

Once installed, I would get a code reader guy to clear all the fault codes.

Finers and Toes crossed, no gearbox issue

Since the car drove perfectly and you coudn't recreate the issue after the drive...I think the TMC not getting enough power and putting out fault codes is the most likely culprit.

[john cooper]

I have rung Hyundai NZ, since I heard about DCT issues with Hyundai models.

They have checked the VIN and advised that the car wasn't part of the defective DCT campaign.

[iRage]

On 10/24/2025 at 8:45 AM, john cooper said:

I have rung Hyundai NZ, since I heard about DCT issues with Hyundai models.

They have checked the VIN and advised that the car wasn't part of the defective DCT campaign.

If I am not mistaken, if the recall issue pops up in these transmissions; it is a lot more drastic (slipping, hesitation, jittering, etc..).

[john cooper]

This is nothing like that, drives fine.

The only issue after that jump start.

But on the purchase report it says “Transmission Failed” 😅😅

Therefore the vehicle was damaged Auction

[john cooper]

Santa is home lol

Spoken with a VW DSG tech and he advised to scan with a code reader, so I bought a $20 scanner and went for the final Go No-Go

Jump-started and scanned the vehicle and no codes.

Plugged a cigarette port USB splitter with a Voltage indicator, it indicated 13.9 - 14.1 V

Done about a 30-minute drive, trust me I gave a good blast.

On a gravel road checked the diff lock + diff lock and reverse up a slight hill a few times and back.

Checked for any codes and nothing.

Found the “Full” dealer service history book in the glove box, which sealed the deal.

It is unusual to have a full dealer service for fleet cars but this was unusual.

Bought a battery on my way which needs to be fitted.

Thank you @iRage for your support!!

[iRage]

3 hours ago, john cooper said:

Santa is home lol

Spoken with a VW DSG tech and he advised to scan with a code reader, so I bought a $20 scanner and went for the final Go No-Go

Jump-started and scanned the vehicle and no codes.

Plugged a cigarette port USB splitter with a Voltage indicator, it indicated 13.9 - 14.1 V

Done about a 30-minute drive, trust me I gave a good blast.

On a gravel road checked the diff lock + diff lock and reverse up a slight hill a few times and back.

Checked for any codes and nothing.

Found the “Full” dealer service history book in the glove box, which sealed the deal.

It is unusual to have a full dealer service for fleet cars but this was unusual.

Bought a battery on my way which needs to be fitted.

Thank you @iRage for your support!!

DAMN !
Congratulations!

Looking forward to seeing more of her !

 

[john cooper]

It is booked for the Battery replacement today. (depending on the weather)

Once all is done, this will replace one of our other business vehicles.