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Acceleration Delay


hatharasinghe

Question

Dear All,

My kia spectra auto gear car had a problem and i put it under "Is this happen GASKET GONE" and now that problem was over but after all car is not geeting speedup as before and if the car is slowdown and again accelerate its not moving fast moving slowly and suddenly it jumps (feel like jump) then its ok and notice some time rpm value is high (around 3000 to 4000 ) but the speed is below 40 and suddenly feel a jump and begin to sppeding and rpm also getting down Is this happen due to what is it having a BAD CATALATIC CONVERTER as i mentioned previous post (when GASKET repair done mechanic did HEAD FACING,VALVE GRINDING , PISTON HEADS CLEANING REPLACE SPARK PLUGS AND INJECTORS CLEAN ) So pls help me what to do next.

N.B After doing all now already done around 300km is this enough to reset ECU pls update me.

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Yes Don the thing is I did a autogear oil changing using machine 25000km earlier and then did a manual change last month still the colour of the oil is bright brownish red and mechanic told no need to change.

I don't think the colour is a good indicator of the quality of the transmission fluid. The key thing to establish is whether the issue is the transmission or the engine. If you can hear the engine race but there is no increase in momentum it could be the gearbox.

Also what is the transmission fluid you used? I used BP autotran DXIII (bought from A*W) for our Suzuki and I sense the transmission is not as efficient as before. I think I will go for genuine Suzuki transmission fluid the next time (though the cost of 1L is equivalent to 4L of the BP fluid)

Edited by The Don
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Thanks DON,

Lastime i send the car to change the autogear oil to Auto*Mira* with my driver and i didnt know what they put but Mobil or something anyway ill check could you tell me is there any good brands which ok for my KIAspectra auto car.

Edited by hatharasinghe
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Thanks DON,

Lastime i send the car to change the autogear oil to Auto*Mira* with my driver and i didnt know what they put but Mobil or something anyway ill check could you tell me is there any good brands which ok for my KIAspectra auto car.

The brand is not the issue hatharasinghe. The grading is.

Recently I went to get the ATF fluid changed in our family Suzuki and I was shocked by the attitude of the spare part shop people. They had no catalogue, but just tried to flog whatever they had available. Clearly this is wrong and can cause serious long lasting damage to the performance of your automatic transmission. And I don't think you can trust service centres as well. They use whatever is available. This time they had used 10W50 instead of 10W40 when I had specifically written down to use a particular oil. I just didn't have time to take it up with them as I was leaving the country the next day and in the greater scheme of things that is not a big problem.

So in my case I went to A*W (who is one of the more reasonable agents in the country) and they gave me 2 options. Either BP Autotran DX III at 3250 for 4L can (Dextron III which is the correct grading for my transmission) or Suzuki original ATF fluid at 3000 odd per litre. I decided to use the BP product because of the significant price difference but having used the car for a few days I think I will fork out the money for Suzuki original fluid next time because the car feels slightly sluggish in the gear changes than it was before.

So my suggestion is either contact the Kia agent and inquire the correct grading of ATF for your car and either buy it from them or another reputed place. If the cost difference is not significant you can always get the work done by the agent as well. But compare prices and products first.

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I think there is a problem with the ICV. That causes the rpm to increase and decrease thus disturbing the vehicle's speed when accelerating. Try checking that.

Edited by Shanjeev
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Thanks DON,

Ok i check with the agent and find the solution is there any best place to change Autogear oil using machine.

and Dear Shanjeev whats the ICV pls update me.

just now i checked at the net and found The automatic transmission takes SK ATF SP-III or Diamond ATF SP-III whats this mean pls tell is this available and brand names

Edited by hatharasinghe
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ICV means "Idle Control Valve".

Both of them are automatic gear fluids. I think the Owner's manual will include about the gear fluid that should be used or the agents might help you out.

Edited by Shanjeev
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Hey mate,

I got similar issue in my Mazda famila Bh.

I replaced all 4 plugs, petrol filter and done cleaning the efi twice,

But problem occurring time to time.

Wondering what to do.

it's so hard to keep the car in idle, jerkin and sometime stops the engine.

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Thanks sanjeev i have the car manual it also mentioned the The automatic transmission takes SK ATF SP-III or Diamond ATF SP-III what is the available brand in srilanka could you update me

Check this website:- http://www.chevron.lk/productsServices/products/autoTransmission/default.cfm

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Thanks sanjeev i have the car manual it also mentioned the The automatic transmission takes SK ATF SP-III or Diamond ATF SP-III what is the available brand in srilanka could you update me

I read a little bit about this in some forums and the story is a little complicated. Most oils do not seem to support this standard (SP III) and the first point of call is to actually check the price of the originals. Kia motors should carry at least one of these and try United motrs as well as the Diamond oil is for Mitsubishi.

Havoline synthetic oils are widely available, but only use that if the other options are insanely expensive. Recently I used BP to change ATF on one of our family cars and was not satisfied with the result and will probably go for genuine Suzuki oil the next time I change. And mind you in my case I bought the BP oil from the Suzuki agent but there it feels like it now takes a little bit longer to change gear than before (or it might just be in my mind).

Edit:

Actually after reading the link provided by Shajeev, I realised your transmission is CVT. This changes things a bit because in brands like Honda using anything other than the original ATF fluid seemed to cause many issues. So while the Havoline ATF fluid seems compatible, do favour the original ATF fluid.

Also are you the first owner of this vehicle, and have you changed ATF fluid before?

Edited by The Don
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Dear Don,

No i am not the first owner the second , i didnt think much about this ATF changing just send service centre to change but not care what are the correct oils and things so thistime its time to findout details and i have another matter some service centres and mechanices told no need to do ATF change using machine its damage the gearbox and some stories and told me do 3 times manual (just drain the oil and fill ) and 4th time do using machine is this to be considered or just stories pls update me before do this.

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I just checked with Car Plan as you all know they are the worest no customer care atall i had to go there as no phone answering and then told me it cost 15000+ but didnt tell what ATF oil they use no answers so price of the ATF J oil havoline is 1200rs/l and plan to use this pls let me know either manual ATF changing or flushing with machine ? pls advice

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I just checked with Car Plan as you all know they are the worest no customer care atall i had to go there as no phone answering and then told me it cost 15000+ but didnt tell what ATF oil they use no answers so price of the ATF J oil havoline is 1200rs/l and plan to use this pls let me know either manual ATF changing or flushing with machine ? pls advice

Well there are two schools of thoughts here.

1. Is that ATF changing via a machine is better as it will suck out all ATF and replace with new so its a more complete job. The downside is either due to human error, the state of existing ATF or machine issues, this has caused valve damage in some instances. This process will also require more ATF fluid. (around 7L)

2. Because of the problems associated with ATF exchangers people have reverted to manual draining by removing the sump and in the process clean the sump etc. To do a proper job you do need to flush the existing oil wit new oil as well as all ATF fluid is not in the sump. This takes less ATF fluid. (around 4L but more if you flush properly)

Personally I think it depends on the operator. Having had a manual ATF change myself due to the above concerns I'm tempted to try a machine exchange next time.

My personal suggestion is to because of the issues related to acceleration etc plus the fact that you've not done an ATF change for a while to do the ATF change at the agent as long as they use the genuine ATF fluid recommended by the manufacturer. This is also influenced by the fact that 15000 sounds reasonable (considering even the Havoline oil will come to about 8400 just for oil). But what I suggest is check with them what ATF fluid they will use (Havoline or manufacturer reccomended brand) and whether they use a machine (it is unlikely they do it manually).

At the very least you can go back to the agent and complain if they mess the process up.

My advice would have been different if you were more knowledgeable about the subject. Because I found a lot of people had no idea what they were doing when it came to recommending the correct type of oil but also the process of change for different cars. So unless you can supervise properly perhaps its best to let the agents handle what is essentially a simple job (as long as you know what you are doing).

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Hey mate,

I got similar issue in my Mazda famila Bh.

I replaced all 4 plugs, petrol filter and done cleaning the efi twice,

But problem occurring time to time.

Wondering what to do.

it's so hard to keep the car in idle, jerkin and sometime stops the engine.

Bro I think you have to either clean or replace ur IAC valve.then you will be good to go! :)

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