Car Jerks When The Clutch Is Used Too Often

Magnum · September 25, 2013

This mostly happens in heavy traffic when i use the clutch very frequently to move few centimeters and then to stop. The car jerks as if its not getting enough clutch and i have to hit the clutch and accelerate harder than usual to stop it from stalling but once you shift from 1st to other gears it works fine, yes it works fine in when starting from second(probably because i have to use more clutch to start off from second)

maheshw · September 25, 2013

how about ur clutch plates ?

Edited September 25, 2013 by maheshw

MV-5 · September 25, 2013

leak in clutch pump, or clutch pump washer related issue.

in a flat road, try to use clutch frequently as you said (just press several times) and then change the gear to 1st. release all brakes, clutch pedal should be fully pressed. wait 1-2 mins, if your vehicle starts to move then probably above root cause is positive.

gsumith · September 25, 2013

i hav da same problem after replacin clutch plate,pressure plare n other related parts

pls help to resolve dis

Jaliya48 · September 26, 2013

Is yours a cable clutch or hydraulic?

NRX · September 26, 2013

On 9/26/2013 at 2:19 AM, Jaliya48 said:
Is yours a cable clutch or hydraulic?

If it's a cable clutch, MV-5's theory can not be applied right ??

NRX · September 26, 2013

On 9/25/2013 at 4:25 PM, Magnum said:
This mostly happens in heavy traffic when i use the clutch very frequently to move few centimeters and then to stop. The car jerks as if its not getting enough clutch and i have to hit the clutch and accelerate harder than usual to stop it from stalling but once you shift from 1st to other gears it works fine, yes it works fine in when starting from second(probably because i have to use more clutch to start off from second)

Magnum. I have the exact issue in my car as well ( Except the starting from the 2nd gear part may be). The problem worsens when the engine is cold and the AC is on. Mine is a Petrol car (FB13) btw and it has a cable clutch..

GayanR · September 26, 2013

engine/transmission mounts?hotspots in flywheel?for a temporary fix try increasing your throttle cable response,if the clutch peddle is adjustable try that too to where you are comfortable...if your clutch releasing point is near to the top of the peddle try moving your seat backwards a bit till your leg is not curved once you push down the peddle,then you can smooth out the upper portion.if the releasing point is near to the floor try the other way..in traffic your muscles might be getting strained and you may be releasing the clutch too quick...

MV-5 · September 26, 2013

On 9/26/2013 at 3:07 AM, NRX said:
If it's a cable clutch, MV-5's theory can not be applied right ??

yes machan, then it is not applicable.

I always try to jump to a conclusion based on problems i came across

Magnum · September 26, 2013

Gave the car for for cut and polish and for some other visual cures so have to look into this problem only next week.

On 9/25/2013 at 5:27 PM, MV-5 said:
leak in clutch pump, or clutch pump washer related issue.
in a flat road, try to use clutch frequently as you said (just press several times) and then change the gear to 1st. release all brakes, clutch pedal should be fully pressed. wait 1-2 mins, if your vehicle starts to move then probably above root cause is positive.

Im not sure what type of clutch mine is, have to ask from dad or the mechanic. if its a hydraulic clutch i'll try this

On 9/26/2013 at 2:19 AM, Jaliya48 said:
Is yours a cable clutch or hydraulic?

Whats the difference? well mine anyway works differently from other normal clutches. i dont have to push it all the way down, just have to hit it a bit like half way down and thats enough to change a gear

On 9/26/2013 at 3:10 AM, NRX said:
Magnum. I have the exact issue in my car as well ( Except the starting from the 2nd gear part may be). The problem worsens when the engine is cold and the AC is on. Mine is a Petrol car (FB13) btw and it has a cable clutch..

Yes A/C works fine, cant really comment about when the engine is cold cuz mine stays cold(not warm, near the C are in the temperature gauge) ) most of the time unless i rev it like mad or use the A/C when its idle for a long time

On 9/26/2013 at 3:46 AM, GayanR said:
engine/transmission mounts?hotspots in flywheel?for a temporary fix try increasing your throttle cable response,if the clutch peddle is adjustable try that too to where you are comfortable...if your clutch releasing point is near to the top of the peddle try moving your seat backwards a bit till your leg is not curved once you push down the peddle,then you can smooth out the upper portion.if the releasing point is near to the floor try the other way..in traffic your muscles might be getting strained and you may be releasing the clutch too quick...

I adjusted the mounts recently so have to check the flywheel

Jaliya48 · September 26, 2013

I'm not mechanically fluent to describe the differences between cable and hydraulic, but one way of checking would be the presence of a cylinder near the clutch pedal firewall. If there is one, it's hydraulic, if not, it's cable. (unless I'm hillariously wrong!!)