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Carina At-170 - Help In A Few Repairs


kalingabd

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Okay few months have gone by and I have slowly done improvements on my car to fix the issues I had.

1/ Fixed the distributor centrfugal advance from udara motors

2/ Fixed the carb (does about 9-10 in city now) compared to 6-7 previously.

3/ Tune up done...car is pretty smooth now...

The next is the body paint. But before that I need to get smthin checked as well...sometimes transmission gives a bit of problem...and screeches when I change gears. Need to do something about it.

But loving the car at the moment :)))))

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Okay few months have gone by and I have slowly done improvements on my car to fix the issues I had.

1/ Fixed the distributor centrfugal advance from udara motors

2/ Fixed the carb (does about 9-10 in city now) compared to 6-7 previously.

3/ Tune up done...car is pretty smooth now...

The next is the body paint. But before that I need to get smthin checked as well...sometimes transmission gives a bit of problem...and screeches when I change gears. Need to do something about it.

But loving the car at the moment :)))))

Nice to know that the car is doing well.

I'm not sure if this particular model has a hydraulic clutch or a cable-operated clutch. But if it's cable-operated, the gear grinding could be because the cable needs adjustment. This is a simple fix. Does the clutch engage/disengage too close to the floor board?

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Nice to hear that you got the issued solved. Fully agree with Davy above on gear grinding. I believe your's must have the hydraulic clutch but what Davy pointed out above applies to that as well. If the clutch oil is old and no maintenance done recently (within the past one year for ex) first get the hydraulic system visually checked for leaks. If there are any signs of leakage get the pump washers changed. If no leaks visible still bleed the system to remove old oil and possible air bubbles. Problem could be in pressure plate or release bearing but it is better to check the simple external things first.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Okay few months have gone by and I have slowly done improvements on my car to fix the issues I had.

1/ Fixed the distributor centrfugal advance from udara motors

2/ Fixed the carb (does about 9-10 in city now) compared to 6-7 previously.

3/ Tune up done...car is pretty smooth now...

The next is the body paint. But before that I need to get smthin checked as well...sometimes transmission gives a bit of problem...and screeches when I change gears. Need to do something about it.

But loving the car at the moment :)))))

Check if your gear lever bushes are in good condition and change if necessary.

If thats ok it could be the hydraulic clutch as described above or the pressure plate. At this age your car is probably due a clutch hydraulic fluid change, and rebuild with the repair kit which will replace all perishable parts with new (make sure you get an original kit).

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  • 3 weeks later...
Okay few months have gone by and I have slowly done improvements on my car to fix the issues I had.

1/ Fixed the distributor centrfugal advance from udara motors

2/ Fixed the carb (does about 9-10 in city now) compared to 6-7 previously.

3/ Tune up done...car is pretty smooth now...

The next is the body paint. But before that I need to get smthin checked as well...sometimes transmission gives a bit of problem...and screeches when I change gears. Need to do something about it.

But loving the car at the moment :)))))

Try udara motors for that also. They also do the painting.I know them since 2003 coz my brother-in-law went there with his 1st car toyota 110.They r still maintaining my AT-170 corona (Auto) from 2008/11 (my 1st car) to date and I did full restoration done in 2013/11 from them. :smilie_liebe9::smilie_liebe9:

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  • 3 weeks later...

thanks guys for the advice.

Took ur advices although I could not reply on the post sooner.

:prankster:

Went back to udara motors and got the clutch checked up. Got the clutch pump rebuilt with a new kit...and oil. well the issue is half resolved but still the issue exists. Basically there are two issues;

1/ Difficulty to change to the 1st gear sometimes

2/ A slight screech when changing from the high top to the top gear. Not from 3rd to the 4th.

The bass says that there seems to be an issue with "brass cone" :speechless-smiley-004: in the gear box. Looked it up on google and there are quite a few articles on it.

Before that, iss there anything I should check at the gear level? I mean is there a bush or smthin I need to check which tends to wear out?

@rumesh what does a pressure plate do exactly? can it cause an issue?

....

And all this time I had the radiator fan directly wired and it was running all the time. Got that fixed..not running bit cautiously to see if the car boils or if the temperature goes up unusually.

.....

And of course the paint. Have a few guys in mind..udara motors is one. and the other is https://######/CAR-Shiner-Paint-Works-Body-Styling/522043194501125. Hope I am not violating any rules by posting the facebook link. :speechless-smiley-003: But i need to get the gear thingy sorted first.

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@rumesh what does a pressure plate do exactly? can it cause an issue?

Pressure plate engage with the clutch plate to transfer power from engine side to the gearbox. It can cause problems if the plate is worn out at the outer plate area where it engage with the clutch plate. Particularly if it is worn out at the fingers or the fingers lost their tension (ie center area where you have a set of fingers. Google for a picture) or you have a worn out release bearing, the clutch mechanism would have to travel further to release the clutch. Since your symptoms are confined to some of the gears but not all, the issue can be in the gearbox itself like your mechanic told you. Check where you clutch begins to engage by listening to the engine and slowly releasing the clutch in first or second gear with parking brakes applied. If the clutch beings to engage/disengage near the bottom of clutch pedal travel, then you may suspect the clutch mechanism first.

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  • 1 month later...

hey guys. im back :)

Progressed a bit on the car..quite a bit actually however unfortunately i met an accident where my car met a collision with a trishaw bugger and the side got scraped from the front door to the rear buffer. :| no big damage to the body except for the paint scrape, but i thought of putting it for the full paint which I was planning to do so for some time....

SO started on it last week at a garage in kaduwela. Bit of tinkering under the windscreens, roof, under mudguards, floor board left hand side and so on... tinkering will be complete most probably by wednesday.

I have a few questions which i need help

1/ Whats the worst i can expect by not starting the car for a whole month :|. Its a carb model mind u but the engine is pretty good.

2/ Whats the best paint i should go for? there is Rock and the bass goes on saying "debia" or smthin? [which is a causeway brand paint i believe] and so forth. I am going with the same color which is white. Any particular things that i should pay attention to while selecting this. The cost is a factor yes but I like to know the options i have.

3/ I have to remove the roof upholstery. It is the original hood upholstery so I prefer to fit the same back. Will the material shrink when i leave the hood removed for sometime?

Any other things i should take precaution against? Let me know.

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1/ Whats the worst i can expect by not starting the car for a whole month :|. Its a carb model mind u but the engine is pretty good.

You may expect following things.

1. Your battery would get discharged. Depending on the age and condition of the battery this could be fatal. Better if you can keep it fully charged with an external charger.

2. The brake surfaces would catch some rust but it is not a major problem.

3. Engine oil may form a sludge particularly if the oil is old.

4. The carb may dry up causing some parts of the packing seals to leak later on. (What I used to do was to put a few drops of engine oil into the float chamber before parking the car for my annual vacation).

If you can start the engine once in couple of days and leave it running for 10 minutes would solve 3 and 4 above. But for the battery you may still need an external charger.

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hey guys. im back :)

Progressed a bit on the car..quite a bit actually however unfortunately i met an accident where my car met a collision with a trishaw bugger and the side got scraped from the front door to the rear buffer. :| no big damage to the body except for the paint scrape, but i thought of putting it for the full paint which I was planning to do so for some time....

SO started on it last week at a garage in kaduwela. Bit of tinkering under the windscreens, roof, under mudguards, floor board left hand side and so on... tinkering will be complete most probably by wednesday.

I have a few questions which i need help

1/ Whats the worst i can expect by not starting the car for a whole month :|. Its a carb model mind u but the engine is pretty good.

2/ Whats the best paint i should go for? there is Rock and the bass goes on saying "debia" or smthin? [which is a causeway brand paint i believe] and so forth. I am going with the same color which is white. Any particular things that i should pay attention to while selecting this. The cost is a factor yes but I like to know the options i have.

3/ I have to remove the roof upholstery. It is the original hood upholstery so I prefer to fit the same back. Will the material shrink when i leave the hood removed for sometime?

Any other things i should take precaution against? Let me know.

Since Rumesh has address point #1 I'll address the rest.

2. Both Rock and Debeer are good paints and so is Sikkens. I would say go with the version which is most cost effective. If the whole car is being painted, ask the painter if they can remove the existing layer of pain using a hot blower, without scraping the underlying protective galvanize layer. This would result in a better finish withlout lumps etc from old shoddy paint repairs and touch ups. Make sure they use the best quality metal filler available, and thoroughtly de rust before applying any or else you will end up with bubbles under the layer of paint.

3. The roof upholstry should be ok to remove and re attach. I've had it done a few times in my cars and its gone back without issues. Make sure they store it in a dry place away from direct sun so that it does not develop mould nor suffer UV damage.

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