Best Auto Service Center

[Ted]

Hi all, Could you pls inbox me any place where we can get advanced services for toyota cars such as engine scanning and car service?? They shall let us to watch wht they r doing.. highly appreciate if anybody knows such a better place from his experience and inbox me.,

Edited February 14, 2016 by Ted

[gayanath]

Every place is good until you were near the car through out the process and guide them....

http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/17276-looking-for-good-service-station/#entry283802

Why do you need engine scanning?? any issue with the engine?.

Edited February 15, 2016 by gayanath

[hrm]

Went to Dr*ve and Sh*ne at Thalawathugoda 2 weeks ago. Didn't had a good experience.

[Ted]

Every place is good until you were near the car through out the process and guide them....

http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/17276-looking-for-good-service-station/#entry283802'>http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/17276-looking-for-good-service-station/#entry283802

Why do you need engine scanning?? any issue with the engine?.

Hi, my car was suddenly stopped twice.. not in running mode.. once when idle mode with some ac on and the other when i reverse the car without accelerating in both these incidents rpm was very low..

[gayanath]

Hi, my car was suddenly stopped twice.. not in running mode.. once when idle mode with some ac on and the other when i reverse the car without accelerating in both these incidents rpm was very low..

This could be happen due to several minor issues and most probably no need to worry.

Need to clarify followings,

What is your car model and year?

Did you replaced your battery or removed battery terminals for any reason recently without giving outside power?

Is this problem still exists.

If no any malfunction indication is existing, I think scanning will not give any valuable information other than saved/stored fault codes like "low idling", etc. You could adjust idling rpm by scanner but most of the general scanners available in our service stations has no such write facility and also, though the mechanics know how to read fault codes, most of them not aware how to adjust idling.

Edited February 19, 2016 by gayanath

[Davy]

This could be happen due to several minor issues and most probably no need to worry.

Need to clarify followings,

What is your car model and year?

Did you replaced your battery or removed battery terminals for any reason recently without giving outside power?

Is this problem still exists.

If no any malfunction indication is existing, I think scanning will not give any valuable information other than saved/stored fault codes like "low idling", etc. You could adjust idling rpm by scanner but most of the general scanners available in our service stations has no such write facility and also, though the mechanics know how to read fault codes, most of them not aware how to adjust idling.

Disagree. This is actually something to worry about. Engines don't just randomly die.

Secondly, suggesting ECU reprogramming for a simple issue like this is quite ignorant and also not recommended.

Hi, my car was suddenly stopped twice.. not in running mode.. once when idle mode with some ac on and the other when i reverse the car without accelerating in both these incidents rpm was very low..

First check if your battery terminals are secured properly.

If the engine appears to be dying when the AC comes on, it's likely that it's due to a sticky Idle Control Valve. Cleaning it should sort out your issue. When you start the car when the engine is cold, does the RPM go up to about 1500 - 2000 and settle down in the normal position (700 or so) when the engine reaches operating temperature? Have you noticed your RPM needle bouncing about when idle?

[gayanath]

Disagree. This is actually something to worry about. Engines don't just randomly die.

When we do a diagnostic, the thumb rule is, we should start from the small things (but this is very basic thing which our Sri Lankan mechanics neglecting and their practice is removing engine at the first instance). If you go through again I have used word "could be" expecting may or may not be. No point of putting bigger headache on the owners head at the first instance. If you go to meet a doctor, do he tell you this is a big issue without doing basic tests?

Please see what I ask from him for further investigation.

The answers will drive the investigation further and the owner will also learn to do DIY diagnostics rather than going to service station in the first instant.

The very minor thing could be happen is, resetting the learned parameters (by ECU) due to battery removal. It will give this kind of stopping issue several times but will goes out after 30-40 km start stop running due to learning again. This is only very first assumption as he told the stopping happened only two times which one is with AC, and other one is while reversing.

The next steps could be clogged MAF sensor, idle control valve, etc.

No any ECU reprogramming required to adjust idle and its very simple thing if the scanner supports . It's not for permanent but to investigate the issue (behavior of idle) as we do not need to dismantle anything for it.

Always better to complete all soft investigations (I mean, which can be done without dismantling) prior to dismantle.

Edited February 19, 2016 by gayanath

[Davy]

When we do a diagnostic, the thumb rule is, we should start from the small things (but this is very basic thing which our Sri Lankan mechanics neglecting and their practice is removing engine at the first instance). If you go through again I have used word "could be" expecting may or may not be. No point of putting bigger headache on the owners head at the first instance. If you go to meet a doctor, do he tell you this is a big issue without doing basic tests?

Please see what I ask from him for further investigation.

The answers will drive the investigation further and the owner will also learn to do DIY diagnostics rather than going to service station in the first instant.

The very minor thing could be happen is, resetting the learned parameters (by ECU) due to battery removal. It will give this kind of stopping issue several times but will goes out after 30-40 km start stop running due to learning again. This is only very first assumption as he told the stopping happened only two times which one is with AC, and other one is while reversing.

The next steps could be clogged MAF sensor, idle control valve, etc.

No any ECU reprogramming required to adjust idle and its very simple thing if the scanner supports . It's not for permanent but to investigate the issue (behavior of idle) as we do not need to dismantle anything for it.

Always better to complete all soft investigations (I mean, which can be done without dismantling) prior to dismantle.

You're missing my point totally. This is what I said about your comment:

1. Car engines do not randomly die. If they do, then there is something to worry about. Saying that there is "nothing to worry about" is simply wrong.

2. When a diagnostic scanner is connected to a car, and when certain parameters are modified through the scanner, you are in fact re-programming the ECU with the new parameters, overriding the car's default parameters. It might be a "simple thing" but what happens internally is a ECU re-program (call it re-initializing if that makes more sense). For a problem like this, you shouldn't even think of doing this, if at all the idle should be manually adjusted, the idle adjustment screw on the throttle body is the way to do it.

As for a car stopping like this as a result of ECU learning. I'm afraid you are wrong again. If the car stopped simply because of a battery disconnect, and if the ECU is just re-learning (assuming the rest of the system is working accordingly), then there is no reason for the engine to stop working as a part of learning.

Finally, I personally prefer being preventive than reactive. A car doesn't necessarily have to throw a Check Engine light for it to be checked out. An engine that has stalled a couple of times is a reason good enough to submit it for a check-up.

Edited February 20, 2016 by Davy

[Ted]

Guys, thanx for comments.. by a mechanical eng, i was told that if the ecu was reset, then this kind of a thing might happen, since the ecu had learned my driving style throgh forcasting based on past data.. since the ecu is now reset it will be starting to learn from the bottom and due to this kinf of things can be happen.. actually i had reset my ecu since my driving side shutter was timing mis matched.. hopefully let's think this might be the reason and if another symptom gona happen again um gona be serious on this...

[gayanath]

You're missing my point totally. This is what I said about your comment:

1. Car engines do not randomly die. If they do, then there is something to worry about. Saying that there is "nothing to worry about" is simply wrong.

2. When a diagnostic scanner is connected to a car, and when certain parameters are modified through the scanner, you are in fact re-programming the ECU with the new parameters, overriding the car's default parameters. It might be a "simple thing" but what happens internally is a ECU re-program (call it re-initializing if that makes more sense). For a problem like this, you shouldn't even think of doing this, if at all the idle should be manually adjusted, the idle adjustment screw on the throttle body is the way to do it.

As for a car stopping like this as a result of ECU learning. I'm afraid you are wrong again. If the car stopped simply because of a battery disconnect, and if the ECU is just re-learning (assuming the rest of the system is working accordingly), then there is no reason for the engine to stop working as a part of learning.

Finally, I personally prefer being preventive than reactive. A car doesn't necessarily have to throw a Check Engine light for it to be checked out. An engine that has stalled a couple of times is a reason good enough to submit it for a check-up.

Dear Davy,

Actually, I didn't replied to you since no point of debating you and me while problem is with Ted. Now see below reply from Ted.

Guys, thanx for comments.. by a mechanical eng, i was told that if the ecu was reset, then this kind of a thing might happen, since the ecu had learned my driving style throgh forcasting based on past data.. since the ecu is now reset it will be starting to learn from the bottom and due to this kinf of things can be happen.. actually i had reset my ecu since my driving side shutter was timing mis matched.. hopefully let's think this might be the reason and if another symptom gona happen again um gona be serious on this...

According to him, he has reset the ECU due to some reason before the issue.

The thing I mentioned as ECU learning is what he was told by other guy too and it needs to ride 30-40 km to re-learn the driving condition and related data. Start stop and slow speed running will quicker the learning process than continuous running becouse the issue is with idling (and more idling running is required to learn idling).

One more technical thing - Theoretically, car engine should not stopped while this process, but practical scenario is, when ECU reset it will goes to factory settings. Since the car is used now, factory setting for idling is not perfectly matching with the current condition of the engine due to the ware and tare of components. While learning driving conditions/styles, ECU can adjust its parameters to keep correct rpm for idling matching with the current status of the components.

I have experienced this scenario two times in one of my old car. (first time I didn't care about the outside power and replaced the battery by myself. other time I have intentionally removed battery terminals to reset ECU to observe any change)

That's why we need to start from very simple thing first and need basic information before going to advice.

Dear Ted,

In my opinion, although you will get it solved next couple of weeks, its better to clean MAF sensor too (no need to spend for full cleaning - so called tune up by our makabass).

Edited February 22, 2016 by gayanath

[Davy]

Dear Davy,

Actually, I didn't replied to you since no point of debating you and me while problem is with Ted. Now see below reply from Ted.

According to him, he has reset the ECU due to some reason before the issue.

The thing I mentioned as ECU learning is what he was told by other guy too and it needs to ride 30-40 km to re-learn the driving condition and related data. Start stop and slow speed running will quicker the learning process than continuous running becouse the issue is with idling (and more idling running is required to learn idling).

One more technical thing - Theoretically, car engine should not stopped while this process, but practical scenario is, when ECU reset it will goes to factory settings. Since the car is used now, factory setting for idling is not perfectly matching with the current condition of the engine due to the ware and tare of components. While learning driving conditions/styles, ECU can adjust its parameters to keep correct rpm for idling matching with the current status of the components.

I have experienced this scenario two times in one of my old car. (first time I didn't care about the outside power and replaced the battery by myself. other time I have intentionally removed battery terminals to reset ECU to observe any change)

That's why we need to start from very simple thing first and need basic information before going to advice.

Dear Ted,

In my opinion, although you will get it solved next couple of weeks, its better to clean MAF sensor too (no need to spend for full cleaning - so called tune up by our makabass).

Dear Gayanath,

Ted didn't provide vital information for our diagnosis here. I hope you agree. It is only natural to assume that this stalling was random. If you read my first response to you, I have said "Engines do not randomly die". Obviously this was not random as Ted disconnected the battery.

Next, can you kindly explain why you suggested "adjust idling RPM by scanner" and "cleaning MAF sensor" if stalling was normal? According to your logic, this should go away after the ECU re-learns right? So why intervene with the ECU when it's learning on it's own anyway? To me it sounds like you are contradicting your own opinion.

I too have experienced many scenarios where engines kept dying right after the battery was disconnected. And I agree with you that it's because the ECU leaned parameters have been erased due to loss of power. However, this not because of wear and tear, but due to excessive carbon deposits in the throttle body and intake manifold. Cleaning the throttle body, ICV, TPS, MAF should allow for smooth idling even after the battery was disconnected.

Edited February 22, 2016 by Davy

[gayanath]

Next, can you kindly explain why you suggested "adjust idling RPM by scanner" and "cleaning MAF sensor" if stalling was normal? According to your logic, this should go away after the ECU re-learns right? So why intervene with the ECU when it's learning on it's own anyway? To me it sounds like you are contradicting your own opinion.

Dear Davy,

adjust idling RPM by scanner -

1. If you go through the paragraph again, its not a recommendation. Until he gives requested answers, I explained that, he may not receive valuable information by scanning. Then I explained what he could do for this issue by scanner but it too may be not possible due to explained reasons. My intention was to demote the scanning without proper clue as lots of makabases are doing several experiments with our cars when taken to the service place. My intention was well explained by my second reply (#7).

2. As you pointed out ECU reprogramming, then I mentioned adjusting idle is not a reprogramming and it's not a big task and what can be done by it. That's it.

cleaning MAF sensor-

As I explained previously, theoretically engine rpm should not go down while learning. Therefore, need some cleaning though. If you have some kind of technical background, you cannot exclude wear and tear (I have to write a full page to explain it) and I have missing one more word "deposits" while writing.

However, his direct issue is not because of it (I mean - for him, he used the car without an issue sensed to him, then he recently observed and issue, and so on). The solution for direct issue is xxxx and then given yyyy for one of the the root-course but the easiest and low cost one required only 5 min work. Cleaning the throttle body is obvious while cleaning MAF by experienced mechanic and, but I have experienced with missing MAF cleaning by some people even while so called tune-up (though I hate the word tune-up) so I specially mentioned it. There are lot more things to be recommended by several others but not compulsory required to attend frequently and he has not even mentioned his millage or any other previous data to go further.

Hope this will clarify all the matters and now its clear that no contradiction.

P.S. - Don't be serious on any thing (not only technical, but also even words written because we cannot express every thing in the mind by words), always be simple, it will open several paths to think further.

Dear Other AL members,

Sorry for any inconvenienced to you due to this discussion between Davy and me, in an open forum.

Edited February 25, 2016 by gayanath

[Davy]

Dear Davy,

adjust idling RPM by scanner -

1. If you go through the paragraph again, its not a recommendation. Until he gives requested answers, I explained that, he may not receive valuable information by scanning. Then I explained what he could do for this issue by scanner but it too may be not possible due to explained reasons. My intention was to demote the scanning without proper clue as lots of makabases are doing several experiments with our cars when taken to the service place. My intention was well explained by my second reply (#7).

2. As you pointed out ECU reprogramming, then I mentioned adjusting idle is not a reprogramming and it's not a big task and what can be done by it. That's it.

cleaning MAF sensor-

As I explained previously, theoretically engine rpm should not go down while learning. Therefore, need some cleaning though. If you have some kind of technical background, you cannot exclude wear and tear (I have to write a full page to explain it) and I have missing one more word "deposits" while writing.

However, his direct issue is not because of it (I mean - for him, he used the car without an issue sensed to him, then he recently observed and issue, and so on). The solution for direct issue is xxxx and then given yyyy for one of the the root-course but the easiest and low cost one required only 5 min work. Cleaning the throttle body is obvious while cleaning MAF by experienced mechanic and, but I have experienced with missing MAF cleaning by some people even while so called tune-up (though I hate the word tune-up) so I specially mentioned it. There are lot more things to be recommended by several others but not compulsory required to attend frequently and he has not even mentioned his millage or any other previous data to go further.

Hope this will clarify all the matters and now its clear that no contradiction.

P.S. - Don't be serious on any thing (not only technical, but also even words written because we cannot express every thing in the mind by words), always be simple, it will open several paths to think further.

Dear Other AL members,

Sorry for any inconvenienced to you due to this discussion between Davy and me, in an open forum.

Please read the bold text in your own reply. This is exactly what I have been saying from the start. With that, I rest my case.

Edited February 26, 2016 by Davy

[Rumesh88]

Well on my personal experience I shared one incident with you all that my car broke down on my way to the office, and there was some kind of engine-default behind the crash.

One of my friends suggested me CarMozo app, is a one-stop destination for all kinds of car repairs and services in Bangalore. I contacted the company through the app and was provided roadside assistance within minutes of my accessing the services. Not only CarMozo saved my day, it also guided me to the best garage and car service provider in the vicinity.

Now we know ECTA is on the horizon .