Toyota Passo 2016

[chandikawith]

What do you think about toyota passo 2016 and above versions? some people are telling that no spare parts, high repair so on. Is it true? please give me some guidance

[tiv]

33 minutes ago, chandikawith said:

What do you think about toyota passo 2016 and above versions? some people are telling that no spare parts, high repair so on. Is it true? please give me some guidance

Engine , gearbox most running gear are shared With the vitz etc, body panels may become rare. The model has a poor second hand market for now. Pls search the forum, it was discussed

Edited May 1, 2019 by tiv

[HaeylM]

On 5/1/2019 at 4:28 PM, chandikawith said:

What do you think about toyota passo 2016 and above versions? some people are telling that no spare parts, high repair so on. Is it true? please give me some guidance

Sri Lanka imports the 1L engine variant of this so it has the same engine as the Vitz, Toyota tank and Yaris so almost all the engine repair components have been around in the market for a while so its not very expensive. Passo is a JDM model so do be mindful that toyota lanka will not have body parts or trims readily available unlike corolla and prius, You can still get outsourced parts at delkanda and panchi.
Talking about reliability and comfort, it is the most spacious and biggest car in its class compared to the Vitz(Note that Passo is not a KEI car unlike WagonR, Spacia etc. so you get better acceleration and stability at higher speeds with a bigger car size). You can also get a premium edition of the passo (MODA G)for the price you pay for a entree level vitz(F grade).

Fuel efficency is decent with around 12-14KMPL in the city (its not bad considering an Aqua does only 14-16 in the city) and you can get around 21KMPL outstation if you arent heavy on the foot. But use proper oil grades (5W-30 Semi Synthetic or 0W-30 Synthetic) when you do service as using 10W-30 can wreck your engine performance and fuel efficiency.

In summary it is an excellent car for the pricepoint but resale market isnt as strong as other toyota models like corolla or Vitz. So unless you are looking to make profit out of it in a buy and sell scenario, This would be a great choice for a everyday work commute and the downtown commute!

 

[tiv]

1 hour ago, HaeylM said:

 But use proper oil grades (5W-30 Semi Synthetic or 0W-30 Synthetic) when you do service as using 10W-30 can wreck your engine performance and fuel efficiency.

 

Do you think this will be that significant in the local context? Given that everything that Toyota Lanka sells and services has been flooded with 10w-30 and its not an idle stop car with an engine as small as 660cc? Unit#d Mot#rs on the other hand sells the Axia with the same engine (variant) but use 0w-20. Pretty much a divided opinion which I am yet to test myself, 

given that the w figure is the cold temperature performance

and the 20/30/ value indicates the thickness at 100c

Also I have attached a bit off the jdm Vitz manual where they state all the oil values, please use google translator

Edited May 13, 2019 by tiv

[tiv]

We only handle the temperatures in the green scored area, thereby why the concern in an engine like this, synthetic or mineral is another story. In 660 cc start stop engines the thinnest oil is preferred to reduce friction as they have little power and are coupled with hybrid assist or start stop systems, 

0w-20 base is almost always synthetic as they are difficult to manufacture and meet grades otherwise

using synthetics allow one to run a higher mileage over a short period of time

ie; 10000km under 6 months, also from experience I’ve seen synthetic oils keep the engine cleaner, probably they don’t darken much either.

Even in the 660 engines, the turbo models always recommend 5w-30 doesn’t that imply they are more concerned about heat tolerance than oil flow, esp considering they need oil to the turbo ASAP. 

A while back I too blindly poured in thinner synthetic oils to other cars, but after much study I don’t believe it’s a prerequisite for these 1kr engines, 

Comments guys?

Edited May 13, 2019 by tiv

[HaeylM]

On 5/13/2019 at 7:20 PM, tiv said:

Do you think this will be that significant in the local context? Given that everything that Toyota Lanka sells and services has been flooded with 10w-30 and its not an idle stop car with an engine as small as 660cc? Unit#d Mot#rs on the other hand sells the Axia with the same engine (variant) but use 0w-20. Pretty much a divided opinion which I am yet to test myself, 

 

Yes it is true that there wont be any issues with running a 1L engine with 10W-30 but the passo comes with idle stop and an ECU that keeps changing the rpm values of the engine depending on the load it handles on idle so a thinner synthetic oil like 5W-30 or even 0W-20 (Since we don't get 0W-30 in the local market) will not only give better milage but also will reduce the carbon buildup inside the engine. Also to mention that these synthetic oils tend to evaporate faster but it keeps the engine much cleaner and doesnt turn black as fast as 10W-30 Does.

 

On 5/13/2019 at 7:33 PM, tiv said:

We only handle the temperatures in the green scored area, thereby why the concern in an engine like this, synthetic or mineral is another story. In 660 cc start stop engines the thinnest oil is preferred to reduce friction as they have little power and are coupled with hybrid assist or start stop systems, 

0w-20 base is almost always synthetic as they are difficult to manufacture and meet grades otherwise

using synthetics allow one to run a higher mileage over a short period of time

ie; 10000km under 6 months, also from experience I’ve seen synthetic oils keep the engine cleaner, probably they don’t darken much either.

Even in the 660 engines, the turbo models always recommend 5w-30 doesn’t that imply they are more concerned about heat tolerance than oil flow, esp considering they need oil to the turbo ASAP. 

A while back I too blindly poured in thinner synthetic oils to other cars, but after much study I don’t believe it’s a prerequisite for these 1kr engines, 

Comments guys?

Thanks Tiv for the explanation and totally agree.  And yes as you mentioned it doesn't make much of a significant difference in performance and everyday use as long as regular oil changes are done. But the difference in gas milage is pretty significant as I do around 26KMPL on a 1KR engine that was maintained from day1 with only synthetic castrol oil. (Oils like castrol magnatec are in the synthetic range of 5W-30 and are pretty good at reducing engine wear and tear at low temperatures.) 

[kush]

With synthetic you could go 1 year 10,000 km while with mineral or semi-synthetic it is recommended that you go by 6 month 5,000 km.

When you factor the cost of the filter there is no significant saving by using non-synthetic oils

I do agree with HaeyIM, synthetic gives better kmpl and also reduces startup friction you will immediately feel this if you switch from mineral to syntactic.

   

[alds]

Running 10000km on synthetic lubricants might even be destructive to the engine than 5000km oil changes with mineral oil considering the fuel quality here in SL. Engine oil is only as good as its kept uncontaminated during its usage. 

The advantage of synthetic lubricants is that they tend to resist forming complex hydrocarbons going through heat cycles than mineral counterparts (Thermal polymerization, the so called sludge buildup in engines). But the impurities in fuel and fuel additives can speed up this deterioration of lubricants, especially sulfur in diesel fuel. So at the end, the only advantage being the thermal stability.